Moon Vancouver

by Carolyn B. Heller

  On temperate days, vendors sell snacks, sandwiches, and crafts at the main section of the beach, near Trail 6—though their schedules can be erratic, so come prepared with your own water and food.

  Several trails lead down to Wreck Beach from the campus. From the UBC bus loop, the most direct route is to walk west on University Boulevard to Northwest Marine Drive and look for Trail 6. It’s more than 400 steps down to the sand.

  Another option is to walk along the shore from Spanish Banks. Wear running shoes or sport sandals that will protect your feet from rocks and logs, and allow at least an hour if you’re heading toward the Trail 6 section of the beach.

  Do this walk only at low tide, or you can be stranded as the tide comes in.

  MAP 5: Off NW Marine Dr., on the west side of the UBC campus, www.wreckbeach.org; dawn-dusk daily; free

  KAYAKING

  Ecomarine Paddlesports Centre

  From their location behind the sailing center at Jericho Beach, Ecomarine Paddlesports Centre rents kayaks and offers guided kayak tours. One popular tour is the guided sunset paddle ($69) offered on Friday evenings from June to early September. On this 2.5-hour tour, you’ll explore the shoreline, looking for bald eagles and other birds and even the occasional harbor seal, while enjoying views of the setting sun reflecting off the city skyline. You don’t need prior kayaking experience; your guide will provide brief paddling instructions and safety information before you launch. Tour rates include all your gear; reservations are required.

  If you’re renting a kayak, you can take out a boat until two hours before sunset. To verify specific rental hours, call or check the website.

  MAP 5: Jericho Sailing Centre, 1300 Discovery St., 604/689-7575 or 888/425-2925, www.ecomarine.com; 10am-dusk Mon.-Fri., 9am-dusk Sat.-Sun. late May-early Sept.; single kayak rental $39-69 for 2 hours to full day, double kayak rental $52-85 for 2 hours to full day

  WINDSURFING

  Windsure

  If you have experience windsurfing, you can rent a board and related gear from Windsure at Jericho Beach. If you’re keen to try windsurfing for the first time, sign up (at least 48 hours in advance) for one of their lessons, such as the 2.5-hour group beginner class. They’re generally open daily between April and September, although hours can vary in spring and fall or if the weather is questionable; call before you go to make sure they’re open.

  MAP 5: Jericho Sailing Centre, 1300 Discovery St., 604/224-0615 or 604/728-7567, http://windsure.com; generally 8:30am-8:30pm daily Apr.-Sept.; rentals $21-23/hour

  HIKING

  S Pacific Spirit Regional Park

  Although it’s less well known than downtown’s Stanley Park, Pacific Spirit Regional Park, in Vancouver’s Point Grey neighborhood near the University of British Columbia campus, is actually larger, measuring more than 1,800 acres (760 hectares). More than 40 miles (70 kilometers) of hiking trails wend through this dense rainforest. Most are gentle forest strolls, although some steeper routes lead from the park to Spanish Banks Beach.

  You can access several park trails off West 16th Avenue between Discovery Street and Acadia Road; several others start from Chancellor Boulevard west of Blanca Street. Another park entrance is on West 29th Avenue at Camosun Street. Maps are posted at the start of most trails. For an online map, see the website of the Pacific Spirit Park Society (www.pacificspiritparksociety.org).

  Don’t hike alone here. While you’re close to the city, many trails quickly lead deep into the forest and feel quite remote.

  MAP 5: Central section bounded by W. 16th Ave., Camosun St., SW Marine Dr., and Binning Rd.; north section between NW Marine Dr. and University Blvd., west of Blanca St. and east of Acadia Rd.; 604/224-5739, www.metrovancouver.org; dawn-dusk daily; free

  DUDE CHILLING PARK

  Until one day in 2012, Cambie’s Guelph Park was just one of Vancouver’s many small neighborhood parks. Then, on an otherwise ordinary November day, a sign appeared in a corner of the park. Looking like other official Vancouver Park Board signage, the sign made it seem that the park’s name had been changed. The new name? Dude Chilling Park.

  Local artist Victor Briestensky created and erected the sign in jest, referring to a wooden sculpture, Reclining Figure by Michael Dennis, which was installed in the park in 1991. City staff promptly removed Briestensky’s fake sign, but not before it circulated widely on social media.

  Local media picked up the story, and the community rallied around the artist, submitting a petition with more than 1,500 signatures requesting that the sign be permanently reinstalled. The artist offered to donate the work, and the Park Board agreed to reinstall it as part of the city’s public art program.

  Officially, the park’s name remains Guelph Park. But at the corner of East 8th Avenue and Brunswick Street, where this unique artwork is now installed, it’s Dude Chilling Park.

  Cambie Corridor Map 6

  SPECTATOR SPORTS

  BASEBALL

  Vancouver Canadians

  The city’s minor league baseball team, the Vancouver Canadians, plays June through early September at family-friendly Nat Bailey Stadium, a historic outdoor venue built in 1951 near Queen Elizabeth Park. The Canadians are affiliated with Major League Baseball’s Toronto Blue Jays. Several nights during the season, the skies light up with postgame fireworks at the stadium; check the website for schedules.

  By public transit from downtown, take the Canada Line to King Edward station. From there, you can walk to the stadium in about 15-20 minutes, or catch bus 33 toward 29th Avenue and ride it three stops to Midlothian Avenue at Clancy Loranger Way, opposite the stadium.

  MAP 6: 4601 Ontario St., 604/872-5232, www.canadiansbaseball.com; June-early Sept.; adults $14-25, seniors $11

  Commercial Drive Map 7

  CYCLING

  Central Valley Greenway

  A 15-mile (24-kilometer) urban cycling route, the Central Valley Greenway takes you through Vancouver’s eastern districts, beginning near Science World and the Olympic Village and continuing east to Commercial Drive and beyond, traveling through the suburbs of Burnaby and New Westminster. Part of the route runs along neighborhood streets, while other sections follow a paved path under or alongside the SkyTrain line. Some of the greenway feels more industrial than “green,” while other sections are naturally scenic, particularly the area near Burnaby Lake Regional Park (www.burnaby.ca), where you can stop to walk a trail along the lake.

  WHALE-WATCHING

  Where the Fraser River meets the Pacific Ocean, the village of Steveston has long been a launching point for fishing boats, and it remains among Canada’s largest commercial fishing ports. Steveston Harbour is also a departure point for whale-watching tours.

  Most whale-watching trips that depart from Steveston head out through the Strait of Georgia toward the Gulf Islands and San Juan Islands, where you’ll most often spot orcas. You might see humpback whales, minke whales, or gray whales, as well as sea lions, bald eagles, and other wildlife. Whale-watching excursions run from April through October.

  Steveston Seabreeze Adventures (12551 No. 1 Rd., Richmond, 604/272-7200, www.seabreezeadventures.ca; adults $120, seniors and students $100, ages 3-12 $75) operates whale-watching trips and provides a shuttle (round-trip $7.50) from downtown Vancouver hotels. In the spring, they also offer 90-minute sea lion tours (Apr.-mid-May; adults $31.50, seniors and students $23.50, kids $18.50) to view migrating California sea lions.

  Vancouver Whale Watch (210-12240 2nd Ave., Richmond, 604/274-9565, www.vancouverwhalewatch.com; $130-140) offers whale-watching tours with a shuttle (round-trip $15) between Steveston and several downtown Vancouver hotels.

  Also in Steveston are a few cultural attractions. Steveston once had more than 15 salmon canneries lining its waterfront. The largest is now the Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site (12138 4th Ave., Richmond, 604/664-9009, www.gulfofgeorgiacannery.org; 10am-5pm daily; adults $8, seniors $7, ages 6-16 $4). Inside, see what it was like to work the canning line. To see how S
teveston’s community lived, visit the Britannia Shipyards National Historic Site (5180 Westwater Dr., Richmond, 604/718-8050, http://britanniashipyard.ca; 10am-5pm daily May-Sept., noon-5pm Sat.-Sun. Oct.-Apr.; free). This collection of restored homes and shops housed Chinese, Japanese, European, and First Nations people.

  To get a bite to eat before heading back downtown, stop by Pajo’s (12351 3rd Ave., Richmond, 604/272-1588, www.pajos.com; 11am-7pm daily Feb.-Oct.; $8-21), a simple spot known for its fish-and-chips, which you can order with cod, salmon, or halibut.

  To reach Steveston by public transit, take the Canada Line to Richmond-Brighouse Station, then change to any Steveston-bound bus (402, 407, or 410).

  The Greenway’s easternmost point is near the River Market (810 Quayside Dr., New Westminster, 604/520-3881, http://rivermarket.ca), where you can take a break at several food stalls like Longtail Kitchen (http://longtailkitchen.com) for street food-inspired Thai fare and Freebird Chicken Shack (http://freebirdchickens.com) for Asian-flavored roast chicken, served with rice and papaya salad. River Market is one block south of the New Westminster SkyTrain station.

  If you don’t want to ride the Greenway all the way out of town and back, or if you get tired along the way, you and your bike can board the SkyTrain to return downtown. Bikes are allowed on the Expo and Millennium Lines, except during weekday rush hours: 7am to 9am traveling westbound (toward downtown) and 4pm to 6pm traveling eastbound.

  MAP 7: From Quebec St. near Terminal Ave. to Quayside Dr. in New Westminster; http://vancouver.ca

  Richmond Map 8

  ICE-SKATING

  Richmond Olympic Oval

  During the 2010 Winter Olympic Games, the Richmond Olympic Oval hosted the speed-skating events. You can practice your own skating moves on the indoor Olympic-size rink during the Oval’s public skating hours. Most skating sessions run 90 minutes, and rentals are available ($3 skates, $2.25 helmets). The Oval also has a large fitness center, a climbing wall, an indoor track, and other activities, which are included in the drop-in prices. Tip for seniors: Admission for ages 60 and over is only $5 between 9am and 2:30pm Monday through Friday.

  MAP 8: 6111 River Rd., Richmond, 778/296-1400; www.richmondoval.ca; hours and days vary seasonally; $16.50 adults, seniors and ages 19-25 $11.50, ages 13-18 $9.25, ages 6-12 $5

  The North Shore Map 9

  KAYAKING AND STAND-UP PADDLEBOARDING

  S Deep Cove Kayaks

  For a water-based excursion just outside the city, head for the North Shore village of Deep Cove, where you can explore the scenic 11-mile (18-kilometer) Indian Arm fjord that’s ringed with forests, mountains, and rocky shores. Deep Cove Kayaks rents single and double kayaks, as well as stand-up paddleboards and surf skis (open-cockpit kayaks). They offer lessons and run a number of kayak tours, including a Full Moon Evening tour (June-Sept., $65), scheduled on the two or three evenings closest to the full moon. Another option is the full-day Boats, Bikes, & Beers tour (dates vary, $279 ages 19 and up), which includes a guided kayak excursion, lunch, a cycling tour, and a beer tasting.

  To reach Deep Cove by public transit from downtown Vancouver, take bus 211 from Burrard Station (Burrard St. at Dunsmuir). It’s a 50- to 60-minute ride. This bus doesn’t run early in the mornings or in the evenings.

  MAP 9: 2156 Banbury Rd., Deep Cove, North Vancouver, 604/929-2268, www.deepcovekayak.com; 10am-dusk Sat.-Sun. Mar. weather permitting, 10am-dusk daily Apr., 10am-dusk Mon.-Fri. and 9am-dusk Sat.-Sun. May, 9am-dusk Mon.-Fri. and 8:30am-dusk Sat.-Sun. June, 9am-dusk Mon.-Fri. and 8am-dusk Sat.-Sun. July, 9am-dusk daily Aug., 10am-7pm daily Sept., 10am-6pm daily early-mid-Oct.; rentals $39-109 for 2 hours to full day

  HIKING

  S The Grouse Grind

  You can’t call yourself a Vancouverite until you’ve hiked the Grind, or so say the many who’ve made the trek up Vancouver’s best-known trail. Nicknamed “Mother Nature’s Stairmaster,” the Grouse Grind is only 1.8 miles (2.9 kilometers) long, but it’s essentially a mountain staircase that you climb straight up, gaining an elevation of 2,800 feet (850 meters). Along most of the trail, you’re hiking in the forest. The reward comes at the top, with vistas across the city.

  The Grouse Grind

  TOP EXPERIENCE

  OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

  If you love the outdoors, Vancouver is your city—in any season. With its stellar natural setting, you don’t have to venture far from the city center to experience the rainforest, the mountains, or the sea, whether on a hiking trail, a ski run, or a paddling route. Even on damp winter days, you’ll find locals playing soccer, going for a run, or strolling along the beach, and when the sun shines, it seems like the entire city is outdoors.

  PARKS

  Just steps from the downtown skyscrapers, there’s Stanley Park (click here), the city’s 1,000-acre (400-hectare) green space to explore on foot, by bike, or in a kayak. The Seawall (click here), a walking and cycling path, circles the park’s perimeter and continues around downtown’s waterfronts, along both the Burrard Inlet and False Creek; with a couple of detours, you can follow this waterside path all the way out to the University of British Columbia campus. There, on the city’s west side, is another rainforest park to explore: Pacific Spirit Regional Park (click here).

  BEACHES

  You can go to the beach right downtown, too, at English Bay Beach (click here) in the West End or in Stanley Park at Second Beach or Third Beach. Kitsilano Beach (click here) is one of the city’s most popular. Families gravitate to the Point Grey sands at Jericho Beach (click here), Locarno Beach (click here), and Spanish Banks Beach (click here).

  WATER SPORTS

  Want to get out on the water? Rent a kayak at Jericho Beach (click here) or take a stand-up paddleboard or kayak out on False Creek (click here). Or head to the North Shore to paddle the scenic Indian Arm fjord with a kayak from Deep Cove Kayaks (click here).

  kayakers on False Creek

  THE NORTH SHORE

  For more outdoor adventures, the North Shore is your day-trip destination. Go hiking, skiing, or snowshoeing at Grouse Mountain (click here) or Cypress Mountain (click here), explore the walking trails in West Vancouver’s waterfront Lighthouse Park (click here), or take a wildlife cruise from Horseshoe Bay (click here).

  Average active hikers can generally complete the Grouse Grind, which has 2,830 steps, in about 90 minutes, but plenty of people need at least two hours.

  Hikers are allowed to walk uphill only. To return to the parking area, you ride down on the Skyride (one-way $10), the Grouse Mountain tram. Check the trail status if you’re planning a spring or fall hike; there can be snow on the trail even when it’s warm in the city.

  The mountain runs a free shuttle (May-Sept.) from Canada Place. By public transportation, take the SeaBus from Waterfront Station to Lonsdale Quay and change to bus 236 for Grouse Mountain, which will drop you at the mountain’s base.

  MAP 9: 6400 Nancy Greene Way, North Vancouver, 604/980-9311, www.grousemountain.com; Skyride $10 one-way

  S Lighthouse Park

  There are beautiful views across the water toward downtown Vancouver from Lighthouse Park, a seaside recreation area in West Vancouver. Perched on a point between Burrard Inlet and Howe Sound, the 185-acre (75-hectare) park has several easy trails through old-growth forests that lead to dramatic lookout points. Some of the park’s trees, which include Douglas fir, western hemlock, and western red cedar, are roughly 500 years old and grow as tall as 200 feet (61 meters).

  The park’s lighthouse, which is a national historic site, is not open to the public. The original lighthouse was built here in 1874, and the current structure dates to 1912. A nearby viewpoint has expansive water vistas. The Beacon Lane trail is the most direct route from the parking area to the lighthouse viewpoint.

  On the east side of the park, the Valley of the Giants trail takes you among the towering trees to a lookout at Eagle Point. On the park’s west side, follow the Juniper Loop to the Juniper Point Trail, which leads to a viewpo
int facing Howe Sound and the Gulf Islands.

  Pack a picnic if you plan to stay a while. The park has restrooms but no other services. Lighthouse Park is 12.5 miles (20 kilometers) northwest of downtown Vancouver. By public transit, catch bus 250 (toward Horseshoe Bay) along West Georgia Street and get off on Marine Drive at Beacon Lane. It’s a 40- to 45-minute ride. Walk south on Beacon Lane to the park.

  MAP 9: Beacon Ln., West Vancouver, 604/925-7275, www.lighthousepark.ca; dawn-dusk daily; free

  Cypress Provincial Park

  In winter, you can ski, snowboard, cross-country ski, or snowshoe at Cypress Mountain, located within Cypress Provincial Park. After the snow melts, it’s a close-to-the-city hiking destination. Encompassing three peaks—Black Mountain, Mount Strachan, and Hollyburn Mountain—Cypress is known for its spectacular views across Howe Sound, to the Gulf Islands, and toward downtown Vancouver.

  A popular trail for day hikers is the Hollyburn Peak Trail, which starts at the Nordic ski area base and gradually ascends 1,300 feet (400 meters) to the top of Hollyburn Mountain. Your reward for hiking this five-mile (eight-kilometer) round-trip trail is expansive vistas over the peaks and forests.

  Another option with excellent views over Howe Sound is the shorter trail to the Bowen Lookout, which begins at the alpine ski area base. With an elevation change of 325 feet (100 meters), the trail is three miles (five kilometers) round-trip.

  The best time to hike the Cypress area is June or July through October, since snow can cover the trails at higher elevations the rest of the year.

  MAP 9: 6000 Cypress Bowl Rd., West Vancouver, 604/926-5612; www.cypressmountain.com; dawn to dusk daily; free