Moon Vancouver

by Carolyn B. Heller

  GROCERIES AND MARKETS

  In a historic building that once housed the Hudson’s Bay department store, the Victoria Public Market (1701 Douglas St., 778/433-2787, http://victoriapublicmarket.com; 10am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.) draws foodies with stalls selling cheeses, chocolate, tea, olive oil, pie, and other goodies, plus a seasonal farmers market (11am-3pm Wed. and Sat. Mar.-Nov.).

  Another snacking destination is Fort Street, where upscale food shops include Chorizo & Co (807 Fort St., 250/590-6393; 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Tues., 8:30am-10pm Wed.-Fri., 11am-10pm Sat.), a Spanish deli and tapas bar; Choux Choux Charcuterie (830 Fort St., 205/382-7572, www.chouxchouxcharc.com; 10am-5:30pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat.) for cured meats and artisanal cheese; and Chocolat, Chocolatiere de Victoria (703 Fort St., 250/381-0131, www.chocolatvictoria.ca; 9:30am-6pm Mon.-Sat.) for handmade chocolates.

  To buy groceries close to downtown, head for The Market on Yates (903 Yates St., 250/381-6000, www.themarketstores.com; 7am-11pm daily), a well-stocked local food store.

  VICTORIA’S CHOCOLATE PROJECT

  David Mincey is passionate about chocolate. The owner and resident chocolate obsessive at the Chocolate Project (Victoria Public Market, 1701 Douglas St., www.chocolateproject.ca) is on a mission to improve the chocolate that is produced around the world and that we eat closer to home.

  chocolate from the Chocolate Project

  In his stall in Victoria’s Public Market, Mincey carries single origin, sustainably produced chocolate from many different countries. If you stop to chat, he’ll tell you about the horrors of conventional chocolate production; he says that most commercial chocolate comes from West African plantations where enslaved people provide the labor, which is how companies can produce chocolate bars selling for $3 or less. He can tell you about the small businesses and individual growers across the globe who produce the chocolate he sells, many of whom he has visited personally.

  You can find Mincey at his stand most Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays during Public Market hours (10am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.), offering tastings, running impromptu workshops, and generally preaching the chocolate gospel. His chocolate bars start around $10 each, and he’ll convince you that they’re worth it.

  MODERN CANADIAN

  Taking its name from a Chinook word meaning “hungry,” S OLO (509 Fisgard St., 250/590-8795, www.olorestaurant.com; 5pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 5pm-11pm Fri., 10am-2pm and 5pm-11pm Sat., 10am-2pm and 5pm-10pm Sun.; $18-46) doesn’t just satisfy your hunger. This fashionably relaxed Chinatown restaurant, decorated with woven wooden light fixtures that dangle from the ceiling like outsized birds’ nests, delights guests with its innovative seasonal fare, from alder smoked salmon with beets and rye crackers to lamb with potato gnocchi and squash to the popular burger garnished with greens and garlic mayo. If you’re feeling adventurous, order the “family meal” for your table and let the kitchen prepare a multicourse feast.

  S Little Jumbo (506 Fort St., 778/433-5535, www.littlejumbo.ca; 5pm-11pm Mon., 5pm-midnight Tues.-Thurs. and Sun., 5pm-1am Fri.-Sat.; $21-32) feels like a secret speakeasy, set at the end of a narrow hallway. In the cozy narrow room with exposed brick walls and green lights illuminating the banquettes, the well-stocked bar and hardworking bartenders draw cocktail connoisseurs (they’ll make you delicious “mocktails,” too, if you’re keeping with the Prohibition theme), but the kitchen is serious as well. Even simple dishes, like fresh green salads or an antipasto platter, are thoughtfully prepared, and you might find innovations like hoisin-glazed duck with Sichuan-braised mushrooms.

  You’ll want to eat your vegetables when they’re as delicious as the fried brussels sprouts salad at North 48 (1005 Langley St., 250/381-2428, www.northfortyeight.com; 11:30am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Tues.-Thurs., 11:30am-2pm and 4pm-10pm Fri.-Sat., 4pm-10pm Sun.; $12-26), a downtown restaurant and lounge, where the menu mixes comfort foods such as mussels and clams in a broth of bacon and local beer with cool creations like octopus tacos. Tiki cocktails and even nonalcoholic drinks like the house-made ginger beer add to the fun.

  Café Brio (944 Fort St., 250/383-0009 or 866/270-5461, www.cafe-brio.com; 5:30pm-late Tues.-Sat.; $15-33) is an old favorite with a modern Mediterranean menu. Look for dishes like grilled albacore with spinach in a red wine broth, braised beef short ribs with roasted root vegetables, or spaghetti with fresh tomatoes. Note to grazers, or those with small appetites: You can order most dishes in full or half portions. The wine list is strong on B.C. labels.

  An unassuming order-at-the-counter eatery, Part and Parcel (2656 Quadra St., 778/406-0888, www.partandparcel.ca; 11:30am-9pm Tues.-Sat.; $7-13) surprises with the first-rate quality of its straightforward but innovative dishes. On the changing menu that leans heavily on salads and sandwiches, super-fresh greens might be topped with spring rhubarb, fresh tuna might come sandwiched with pickled green beans, and pillowy gnocchi might sport a creamy sesame sauce. In the Quadra Village neighborhood, not quite two miles (3 kilometers) north of the Inner Harbour, this local joint is an easy pit stop on the way to or from the Swartz Bay ferry.

  SEAFOOD

  It’s a little hard to find, but that hasn’t stopped the hordes from lining up at the wharf-side shipping container housing Red Fish Blue Fish (1006 Wharf St., 250/298-6877, www.redfish-bluefish.com; 11am-9pm daily mid-Feb.-Oct.; $10-23), a busy seafood takeaway at the foot of Broughton Street. Choose tempura-battered Pacific cod, wild salmon, B.C. halibut, or oysters for your fish-and-chips. The hand-rolled fish tacos and salmon sandwich with pickled cucumbers are other popular picks.

  Reel in a quick bite at Fishhook (805 Fort St., 250/477-0470, www.fishhookvic.com; 11am-9pm daily; $6-13), which specializes in seafood tartines, open-faced sandwiches topped with cured, broiled, or smoked fish. Try the sablefish with kale and house-made pickles or the tuna melt with cheddar and caramelized broccoli. This casual café also makes an array of fish curries.

  A Victoria institution on Fisherman’s Wharf, Barb’s Fish ’n’ Chips (1 Dallas Rd., 250/384-6515, http://barbsfishandchips.com; 11am-dark daily mid-Mar.-Oct.; $6-19) has been serving up seafood since 1984. It’s one mile (1.6 kilometers) west of downtown; you can also get here on the Victoria Harbour Ferry (250/708-0201, www.victoriaharbourferry.com).

  ASIAN

  For a quick bite with flavors from across Asia, pop into Foo Asian Street Food (769 Yates St., 250/383-3111, www.foofood.ca; 11:30am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 11:30am-9pm Sun.; $9-15) for a short rib bánh mì, pork fried rice, butter chicken, and other crowd-pleasing dishes that take cues from Vietnam, China, India, Japan, and Thailand. They don’t have many seats, but they do have local beer on tap.

  FRENCH

  A long-standing French bistro on the edge of Chinatown, S Brasserie L’Ecole (1715 Government St., 250/475-6260, www.lecole.ca; 5:30pm-11pm Tues.-Sat.; $19-34) continues to charm with its warm welcome and its just-classic-enough menu. You might find local trout paired with lentil fritters and squash puree, bratwurst with tomato-braised coco beans and fried kale, or steak frites. They stock a long list of Belgian beers and French wines. No reservations.

  ITALIAN

  The modern Italian fare at S Zambri’s (820 Yates St., 250/360-1171, www.zambris.ca; 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-10pm Fri.-Sat, 10:30am-2pm and 5pm-9pm Sun.; $17-32), in the equally modern Atrium Building, makes one of Victoria’s best meals, Italian or otherwise. The pastas, like penne with gorgonzola and peas or orecchiette with house-made sausages and rapini, are always good choices, as are the pizzas, or you can try more elaborate mains like tuna alla livornese (sauced with onions, tomatoes, olives, and wine) or beef tenderloin paired with polenta. Save room for desserts like panna cotta or chocolate pot de crème.

  VEGETARIAN

  You can order a local craft beer or a “superfood” cocktail (perhaps the Coastal Gin & Tonic made with spirulina and bull kelp) at cool, laid-back Be Love (1019 Blanshard St., 778/433-7181, http://beloverestaurant.ca; 11am-9:30pm Sun.-Thurs., 11am-10pm Fri.-Sat.; $14-21), a bright vegetarian café
where veggie-friendly doesn’t mean ascetic. Try a salad like arugula and melon with shaved fennel and pumpkin seeds or the Bibimbap Bowl, a mix of house-made kimchi, seaweed, sautéed veggies, pickled shiitakes, and grilled tempeh on brown rice. Want a booze-free beverage? Note the big vats of kombucha above the bar.

  An old favorite among plant-eaters and their omnivorous dining companions, Rebar (50 Bastion Square, 250/361-9223, www.rebarmodernfood.com; 11:30am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 8:30am-9pm Sat., 8:30am-8pm Sun.; $11-22) serves vegetarian comfort food like curries, enchiladas, and stir-fries, along with a few seafood dishes. Their almond burger is a classic. Save room for a sweet, like a homey ginger molasses cookie or gooey carrot cake.

  DINERS

  A favorite joint for breakfast or brunch is funky Jam Café (542 Herald St., 778/440-4489, www.jamcafevictoria.com; 8am-3pm daily; $8-16), where the hip takes on diner classics include fried oatmeal, red velvet pancakes, and chicken and waffles. Come hungry, and be prepared to line up; they don’t take reservations.

  BAKERIES AND CAFÉS

  Well-prepared coffee, baked goods, and light meals such as salads, charcuterie, and pastas draw locals and visitors to the sunny patio or cozy interior at Tre Fantastico (810 Humboldt St., 250/590-8014, www.caffefantastico.com; 7am-10pm daily), a café set a short stroll from the Inner Harbour.

  For a quick exotic meal, stop into Le Petit Dakar (711 Douglas St., 250/380-3705, www.lepetitdakarbc.ca; 11am-5pm Mon.-Fri.; $7-11), a tiny Senegalese takeaway. The personable chef-owner will guide you through the small menu where you might dig into mafe (a meat stew enriched with peanut butter), black-eyed bean ragout, or chicken curry.

  Canada isn’t known as a barbecue nation, but Pig BBQ Joint (1325 Blanshard St., 250/590-5193, www.pigbbqjoint.com; 11am-10pm daily; $8-18) does a fine job with its pulled pork, smoked chicken, and beef brisket. In this casual downtown joint, expect big flavors, but don’t expect niceties like utensils or plates.

  ACCOMMODATIONS

  Victoria’s hotels are clustered around the Inner Harbour. In some surrounding neighborhoods, you’ll find B&Bs and other good-value lodgings.

  UNDER $150

  An old motel given new life as a funky retro lodging, Hotel Zed (3110 Douglas St., 250/388-4345 or 800/997-6797, www.hotelzed.com; $99-209 d), decorated in vibrant oranges, turquoises, fuchsias, and purples, is Victoria’s most fun place to stay. The 63 rooms have rotary phones (with free local calls), comic books in the baths, and complimentary Wi-Fi. The indoor-outdoor pool has a bubblegum-pink waterslide. A hip diner-style restaurant, The Ruby (250/507-1325, http://therubyvictoria.com; 8am-8pm Sun.-Thurs., 8am-9pm Fri.-Sat.; $13-18), cooks big breakfasts and roasts free-range chicken; downstairs, there’s a Ping-Pong lounge. It’s two miles (3 kilometers) north of the Inner Harbour, but the hotel runs a free shuttle downtown in their vintage VW bus.

  $150-250

  In a 1912 Victorian home in the residential Rockland neighborhood, S Abbeymoore Manor B&B (1470 Rockland Ave., 250/370-1470 or 888/801-1811, www.abbeymoore.com; $159-299 d) looks formal, with polished woodwork, oriental rugs, and period furnishings, but the longtime owners keep things comfortable with help-yourself coffee, tea, soft drinks, and snacks, a book- and game-filled guest library, and hearty morning meals. The five guest rooms are all traditionally appointed, while the three suites (two on the garden level and one on the top floor) are more modern. Wi-Fi and local calls are included; no kids under 14.

  To capture Victoria’s traditional ambience, stay at the Beaconsfield Inn (998 Humboldt St., 250/384-4044 or 888/884-4044, www.beaconsfieldinn.com; $169-279 d), a nine-room B&B in a 1905 Edwardian manor furnished with antiques, stained-glass windows, and chandeliers. Most guest rooms have fireplaces and whirlpool tubs; all have down comforters and Wi-Fi. Rates include full breakfast, afternoon tea and cookies, and evening sherry. No kids under 12.

  Noted Canadian architect Arthur Erickson designed one wing of the Inn at Laurel Point (680 Montreal St., 250/386-8721 or 800/663-7667, www.laurelpoint.com; $149-323 d, parking $17), where most of the contemporary suites are angled to take advantage of the property’s waterfront views. The Laurel Wing units are more conventional, but the harbor vistas from these rooms aren’t bad either. With a quiet setting a short walk from the busy Inner Harbour, the Pacific Rim-style lodging has an indoor pool and a sundeck facing a Japanese garden. The well-regarded Aura Restaurant (250/414-6739, www.aurarestaurant.ca) is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Wi-Fi is included.

  OVER $250

  A bit removed from the Inner Harbour’s fray, but still an easy stroll from the sights, the condo-style Oswego Hotel (500 Oswego St., 250/294-7500 or 877/767-9346, www.oswegohotelvictoria.com; $190-310 d, 2-bedroom unit $350-595, parking $15-20) has 80 stylish, urban studio, one-bedroom, and two-bedroom units. All have kitchen facilities with granite counters, stainless-steel appliances, and French-press coffeemakers, as well as large baths with soaker tubs. The upper-floor suites have expansive city views. Wi-Fi is included.

  A landmark on the Inner Harbour, the S Fairmont Empress (721 Government St., 250/384-8111 or 800/441-1414, www.fairmont.com; $449-749, parking $30) charms with its polished staff and stately public spaces. The guest rooms, updated in 2017 with a blend of classic and contemporary furnishings, vary from petite to grand, but you’re here for the heritage and gracious service as much as the physical space. An indoor pool and well-equipped health club keep you busy, while the Willow Stream Spa keeps you pampered. Q at the Empress serves contemporary fare with produce from the rooftop garden and around the island, paired with B.C. wines and local craft beers; the Empress is famous for its traditional afternoon tea. Join Fairmont’s complimentary President’s Club to get Wi-Fi access; otherwise, it’s $15 per day.

  S Magnolia Hotel & Spa (623 Courtney St., 250/381-0999 or 877/624-6654, www.magnoliahotel.com; $239-419 d, parking $24), a well-managed boutique lodging two blocks from the Inner Harbour, caters to both business and leisure travelers. The 64 rooms are decorated in soothing grays and creams, with minifridges, single-cup coffeemakers, complimentary Wi-Fi, and flat-screen TVs. The best rooms are on the sixth and seventh floors above the surrounding buildings; from the corner units, you can see the Parliament Building, illuminated at night. Work out in the compact gym or borrow a complimentary bike to go touring. The staff are quick with a greeting or to offer assistance, from directions to restaurant recommendations.

  A stay at the S Oak Bay Beach Hotel (1175 Beach Dr., 250/598-4556 or 800/668-7758, www.oakbaybeachhotel.com; $188-568 d) feels like an escape to a seaside resort, particularly when you swim or soak in the heated mineral pools that front the ocean. The 100 generously sized suites have electric fireplaces, flat-screen TVs, kitchen facilities, and deluxe baths. The panoramic vistas from the water-facing rooms are spectacular. Rates include Wi-Fi, local calls, and parking. The Snug, a British-style pub, serves classics like fish-and-chips and bangers and mash with a cold pint; Kate’s Café keeps guests and locals supplied with coffee and pastries. The hotel is in the residential Oak Bay district, east of downtown.

  Oak Bay Beach Hotel

  To stay in an upscale Italian Renaissance manor, book a room at the deluxe Villa Marco Polo Inn (1524 Shasta Pl., 250/370-1524, www.villamarcopolo.com; $239-339 d), built in 1923 in the Rockland district. The four romantic guest suites entice with European linens, Persian carpets, fireplaces, and a plush Silk Road style. Breakfasts feature homemade muffins, organic produce, and locally made charcuterie, with a sweet or savory entrée. Lounge in the garden or the wood-paneled library, checking your email if you must (Wi-Fi and local calls are included), but if you laze with your beloved in your double soaker tub instead, your messages can surely wait.

  INFORMATION AND SERVICES

  VISITOR INFORMATION

  Tourism Victoria (812 Wharf St., 250/953-2033, www.tourismvictoria.com; 9am-5pm daily) runs a year-round information center on the Inner Harbour, with helpful staff who can assist you in booking tours and accommodations. The building has public res
trooms, too.

  Tourism Vancouver Island (www.vancouverisland.travel) publishes a guide to things to do across the island, available online and in print from area visitors centers.

  MEDICAL SERVICES

  Victoria General Hospital (1 Hospital Way, 250/727-4212 or 877/370-8699, www.viha.ca) and Royal Jubilee Hospital (1952 Bay St., 250/370-8000 or 877/370-8699, www.viha.ca) provide emergency medical services. The pharmacy at Shoppers Drug Mart (3511 Blanshard St., 250/475-7572, www.shoppersdrugmart.ca) is open 24 hours daily.

  GETTING THERE

  AIR

  The fastest way to travel between Vancouver and Victoria is by floatplane or helicopter. Both take off and land from the city centers, making this option convenient for a car-free day trip. It’s more expensive than taking the ferry, but the scenery over the Gulf Islands and Strait of Georgia is impressive.

  Harbour Air (604/274-1277 or 800/665-0212, www.harbourair.com; 35 minutes; one-way adults $139-242) flies frequently throughout the day between the Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre (1055 Canada Pl., behind the Vancouver Convention Centre, 604/274-1277) and the Victoria Inner Harbour Centre (1000 Wharf St., 250/384-2215).

  Helijet (800/665-4354, www.helijet.com; 35 minutes; one-way adults $179-285, seniors $215) departs frequently throughout the day between Vancouver Harbour Heliport (455 Waterfront Rd., near Waterfront Station, 604/688-4646) and Victoria Harbour Heliport (79 Dallas Rd., 250/386-7676), between the Ogden Point Cruise Ship Terminal and Fisherman’s Wharf. One child (ages 2-12) flies free with each adult; additional one-way children’s fares are $79.