Moon Vancouver

by Carolyn B. Heller

  SHUTTLE

  To visit the gondola for the day from Vancouver, you can also take the Sea To Sky Gondola shuttle (hours vary seasonally; round-trip, including lift tickets, adults $69, seniors $59, ages 6-18 $49, under 6 $25). It picks up passengers in the morning from several points in downtown Vancouver, including the Hyatt Hotel on Burrard Street, Library Square, and Canada Place, and will return you to the city in the late afternoon.

  S BRACKENDALE EAGLES PROVINCIAL PARK

  From late November through mid-February, hundreds of bald eagles come to winter north of Squamish in the now-protected 1,865-acre (755-hectare) environs of Brackendale Eagles Provincial Park (www.env.gov.bc.ca; dawn-dusk daily Apr.-Sept.). It’s one of the most significant winter eagle populations in North America. In a recent peak year, volunteers counted more than 3,700 eagles in the vicinity.

  You can’t actually enter the park during the eagle season; it’s closed to visitors between October and March to provide a protected habitat for the birds. However, you can watch the eagles from across the river. Eagle Run Park (Government Rd.; dawn-dusk daily), along the municipal dyke, has several viewing points where you can spot the birds. Bring binoculars if you have them. In December and January on the weekends, volunteer interpreters staff the Eagle Run viewing area (9:30am-3:30pm Sat.-Sun.) and can tell you more about the eagles and their migration patterns.

  Coming from Vancouver or points south, follow Highway 99 past downtown Squamish, turn left (west) onto Mamquam Road, and then go right (north) on Government Road toward Brackendale.

  FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

  Wondering how lumberjacks get their jollies? At the Squamish Days Loggers Sports Festival (www.squamishdays.ca, July-Aug.), a weekend of family fun, you can watch competitions in ax-throwing, tree-climbing, birling (also known as log rolling), and other events, and enjoy pancake breakfasts, bed races, barbecues, and more.

  SPORTS AND RECREATION

  HIKING

  S Stawamus Chief Provincial Park

  Looming above Highway 99 just north of the Sea-to-Sky Gondola, the rocky cliff known as the Chief has long been a must-do climb for experienced hikers and rock climbers. A challenging but popular day hike takes you from the Chief’s base to the top of the cliffs in the Stawamus Chief Provincial Park (Hwy. 99, 604/986-9371, www.env.gov.bc.ca or http://seatoskyparks.com; dawn-dusk daily).

  The Chief actually has three summits, and you can choose to hike one or all. First Peak, at 2,000 feet (610 meters), draws the most hikers; from the summit, you have great views of Howe Sound. From the parking lot to the First Peak summit is just 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) round-trip. However, because the trail is quite steep, most hikers allow two to three hours.

  Second Peak, at 2,150 feet (655 meters), has lots of viewpoints from its summit, looking across Howe Sound, the town of Squamish, and the mountains in nearby Garibaldi Provincial Park. From the parking lots, it’s three miles (5 kilometers) round-trip to the Second Peak. Allow four to five hours.

  Third Peak is the tallest of the three summits, rising 2,300 feet (702 meters). You can hike to Third Peak directly from the base or continue from the Second Peak trail. Either route is 4.5 miles (7 kilometers) round-trip; allow five to seven hours.

  The hikes up The Chief are considered intermediate-level adventures. Note, though, that on the routes to First and Second Peaks, there are sections where you need to climb ladders or grab onto chains to help you reach the top. For all these hikes, bring water, snacks, a rain jacket, and warm layers. Get an early start and, especially in the summer, hike on a weekday if you want to avoid congestion on these often-busy trails.

  Garibaldi Provincial Park

  The region’s largest provincial park, the 750-square-mile (1,942-square-kilometer) Garibaldi Provincial Park (www.env.gov.bc.ca) extends from Squamish north to Whistler and beyond. Hikers have a lot of territory to explore in this vast park, with more than 55 miles (90 kilometers) of hiking trails.

  The southernmost section of the park, Diamond Head, is closest to Squamish and includes the park’s namesake, the 8,786-foot (2,678-meter) Mount Garibaldi. For experienced day hikers, a scenic trail in the Diamond Head area leads up to Elfin Lakes (7 miles/11 kilometers, each way); allow three to five hours one-way. To find the trailhead, turn east off Highway 99 onto Mamquam Road, 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) north of Squamish. Follow the paved road past the Squamish Golf and Country Club, and take the gravel road just after the Mashiter Creek Bridge. In 3.7 miles (6 kilometers), turn left onto the Garibaldi Park road, which will take you to the parking lot. It’s 10 miles (16 kilometers) from the highway to the parking area.

  Farther north, you can do several day hikes in the park’s Black Tusk/Garibaldi Lake sector. It’s a six-mile (9-kilometer) climb to Garibaldi Lake. Allow three to four hours each way; the trail has an elevation change of nearly 2,800 feet (850 meters). From the same starting point, you can hike to Taylor Meadows. This 4.75-mile (7.5-kilometer) route follows the Garibaldi Lake trail for the first 3.75 miles (6 kilometers) before heading up into the alpine meadows. Allow three to four hours each way; the trail also has an elevation change of about 2,800 feet (850 meters). The Garibaldi Lake parking lot is 23 miles (37 kilometers) north of Squamish or 12 miles (19 kilometers) south of Whistler, along Highway 99.

  At the park’s higher elevations, snow is usually on the ground from October until June or July. Check the trail conditions report on the park website before you set out.

  RAFTING

  Two rivers in the Squamish area offer white-water rafting adventures. Trips on the Cheakamus River are gentler, with class I and II rapids, good for family excursions. The faster Elaho-Squamish River, with class III and IV rapids, will give you more of a thrill. For the Elaho trips, kids generally need to be at least 12 years old and weigh at least 90 pounds (40 kilograms).

  SunWolf Rafting (70002 Squamish Valley Rd., 604/898-1537 or 877/806-8046, www.sunwolf.net) offers full-day Elaho River trips (June-Sept.; adults $169, ages 12-16 $155) that include a barbecue lunch. They also run half-day Cheakamus River family trips (June-Sept.; adults $99, ages 5-12 $69). In winter, when hundreds of eagles nest at Brackendale Eagles Provincial Park, SunWolf operates guided Eagle Float Tours (Dec.-mid-Feb.; adults $110, ages 5-12 $75) that enable you to view the eagles from the river, closer than you can see them from the shore.

  GO SEA-TO-SKY IN A FERRARI

  Have you always fantasized about whizzing along a serpentine highway in a Ferrari or Lamborghini? Then Scenic Rush (5775 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, 604/926-5777 or 855/926-5777, http://scenicrush.com) lets you live out your exotic car dream.

  This unique tour company, based in West Vancouver, offers several experiences that enable you to drive the stunning Sea-to-Sky Highway in a Ferrari F430 Spider, Lamborghini Gallardo, Nissan GT-R, or Audi R8.

  Book the 2.5-hour Sea to Sky Experience (Apr.-Oct.; adults $595, passenger or second driver $75), and you’ll have a chance to try all four vehicles along the 50-mile (80-kilometer) oceanfront route to and from the town of Squamish. If that’s not a sufficient thrill, consider the 7-hour Whistler Experience (May-Sept.; adults $1,495, passenger or second driver $195), where you not only get to drive all these cool cars for 140 miles (225 kilometers) to Whistler and back, you’ll also have time to explore Whistler Village and sit down for lunch.

  Scenic Rush also offers the one-hour Porteau Cove Experience (mid-Mar.-mid-Nov.; adults $395, passenger $35), which lets you try out two of the cars as you drive the scenic 30 miles (48 kilometers) between West Vancouver and Porteau Cove.

  Note that for any of these experiences, the driver must be at least 24 years old and have a valid driver’s license and a minimum of seven years’ driving experience.

  Whichever option you choose, keep your camera handy. Not only are the views pretty spectacular, but you’ll surely need to share that selfie behind the wheel of the Ferrari.

  Canadian Outback Rafting (40900 Tantalus Rd., 866/565-8735, www.canadianoutbackrafting.com) runs Elaho River tr
ips (May-Sept.; adults $154, ages 13-16 $140) and Cheakamus River float trips (May-Sept.; adults $95, ages 5-16 $66). Whistler-based Wedge Rafting (211-4293 Mountain Square, Whistler, 604/932-7171 or 888/932-5899, http://wedgerafting.com) operates Elaho (May-Sept.; adults $169, ages 12-16 $155) and Cheakamus (May-Sept.; adults $99, ages 6-16 $69) trips as well.

  FOOD AND ACCOMMODATIONS

  Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company (37801 Cleveland Ave., 604/892-2603, www.howesound.com) is a brewery, a restaurant, and a place to stay. Rates at the 20-room inn ($89-129 d) include Wi-Fi and a brewery tour. The brewpub (11am-midnight Mon.-Thurs., 11am-1am Fri., 8am-1am Sat., 8am-midnight Sun.; $11-18) serves pizzas, salads, burgers, and other pub fare to pair with the craft beer. Free brewery tours are offered daily at 1pm.

  A popular spot for breakfast, Fergie’s Café (70002 Squamish Valley Rd., Brackendale, 604/898-1537 or 877/806-8046, www.sunwolf.net; 8am-3pm daily; $12-15) serves home-style classics with local ingredients, like eggs Benedict, pulled pork hash, Nutella french toast, and burgers.

  Locals recommend Sushi Sen (40382 Tantalus Way, Garibaldi Highlands, 604/898-8235, www.sushisensquamish.com; lunch 11:30am-2pm Tues.-Fri., dinner 5pm-9pm Tues.-Thurs., 5pm-9:30pm Fri., 4pm-9:30pm Sat., 4pm-9pm Sun.; $8-21) when they need a maki or nigiri fix. While the menu emphasizes sushi, you can choose a few other Japanese standards, including chicken teriyaki or tempura.

  If you want to stay overnight in Squamish, the town has several mid-range chain hotels off Highway 99, including the Executive Suites Hotel and Resort (40900 Tantalus Rd., Garibaldi Highlands, 604/815-0048 or 877/815-0048, www.executivesuitessquamish.com; $125-229 d) and the Sandman Hotel & Suites Squamish (39400 Discovery Way, 604/848-6000 or 800/726-3626, www.sandmanhotels.ca; $149-199).

  GETTING THERE AND AROUND

  CAR

  It’s a one-hour, 40-mile (65-kilometer) drive from Vancouver to Squamish via Highway 1 and the Sea-to-Sky Highway.

  From downtown Vancouver, take West Georgia Street to the Lions Gate Bridge. After crossing the bridge, bear left toward Marine Drive west/Highway 1/Highway 99. Enter Marine Drive and stay in the far right lane to take the first right onto Taylor Way, following signs for “Whistler.” Follow Taylor Way up the hill, and exit left onto Highway 1 west. Continue on Highway 1 until it merges with Highway 99, the Sea-to-Sky Highway, which will take you to Squamish.

  BUS

  While it’s easiest to explore Squamish if you have a car, it’s possible to get from Vancouver to Squamish on the bus.

  Greyhound (800/661-8747, www.greyhound.ca; 1 hour and 20 min.; one-way adults $11-23) runs several buses a day between Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station (1150 Station St.) and their Squamish depot (40446 Government Rd., Squamish, 604/898-3914). While designed for commuters, the Squamish Connector (604/802-2119, www.squamishconnector.com; one-way adults $25) can take you between the Squamish Adventure Centre (38551 Loggers Ln.) and downtown Vancouver if your travel times fit with their bus schedule. Perimeter Transportation (604/717-6600 or 888/717-6606, http://www.perimeterbus.com) operates buses between the Squamish Adventure Centre and either YVR airport (one-way adults $75) or downtown Vancouver (one-way adults $55), although their fares are much higher.

  Once you’ve arrived in Squamish, you can take local buses that B.C. Transit (604/892-5559, https://bctransit.com/squamish/home) operates. Use the trip planner on their website to map your in-town routes.

  INFORMATION AND SERVICES

  At the Squamish Adventure Centre, just off Highway 99, Tourism Squamish (38551 Loggers Ln., 604/815-4994 or 877/815-5084, www.tourismsquamish.com; 8am-5pm daily) provides lots of information about the region, including details about hiking trails. The building has a café and restrooms, handy for a Sea-to-Sky pit stop.

  Whistler

  More than two million visitors every year make their way to this mountain town that has a permanent population of only 10,000. The core of the village is an alpine-style pedestrian plaza, where restaurants, pubs, and shops line the walkways, and all paths lead, sooner or later, to the ski lifts. Most visitors come to get outdoors—to ski or snowboard in winter, and to hike, cycle, canoe, kayak, rock climb, or zip-line in the warmer months. Others simply want to stroll through the pedestrian village and perhaps ride the gondola to gaze across the mountains.

  Just a two-hour drive from Vancouver, Whistler is close enough for a day trip. If you enjoy outdoor adventures, though, you might want to spend two days or more. There’s plenty to do!

  Whistler has several neighborhoods stretching along Highway 99, with the main Whistler Village about midway through the area. Creekside, where there’s a separate base village with its own lifts, and Function Junction, a more industrial area with some of the town’s services, are south of Whistler Village. The Upper Village and the Blackcomb base areas are just north of Whistler Village.

  SIGHTS AND ACTIVITIES

  S WHISTLER-BLACKCOMB

  From more than 200 trails for skiing and snowboarding to mountain biking, gondola rides, hiking, zip-lining, and much more, the two-mountain Whistler-Blackcomb Resort (604/967-8950 or 800/766-0449, www.whistlerblackcomb.com) has scads of outdoor things to do all year long.

  PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola

  Whistler’s PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola (10:15am-5pm daily late May-late Sept., 10:15am-5pm Sat.-Sun. late Sept.-mid-Oct.; adults $54-59, seniors and ages 13-18 $47-52, ages 7-12 $27-30) runs 2.73 miles (4.4 kilometers) between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains. It holds the world’s record for the longest unsupported span (that is, the straight-line distance between two towers) at 1.88 miles (3,024 meters) and for the highest lift of its kind, rising 1,427 feet (436 meters) above the valley floor. It transports skiers and snowboarders between the two mountains in winter, and from spring through fall, it’s open to sightseers to enjoy the peaks’ panoramas.

  Whistler’s PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola

  Allow about two hours for a sightseeing trip on the PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola. The PEAK 2 PEAK ride itself takes about 20 minutes, but to reach the gondola station, you need to take either the Whistler Village Gondola or chairlifts on Blackcomb Mountain, which add another 25 minutes each way. If you plan to go hiking, allow additional time.

  Gondola tickets are typically cheaper if you buy them online in advance, but check the weather forecast first. The views are obviously best on a sunny, clear day.

  Via Ferrata

  Do you want to try rock climbing but don’t have any training or experience? Consider Whistler’s Via Ferrata (604/938-9242, www.mountainskillsacademy.com; 4 hours; adults $139, ages 14-18 $119), a guided climbing route that’s open to anyone who’s reasonably fit, even if you’ve never done any climbing. The name comes from the Italian for “iron way,” and the Via Ferrata route includes a series of iron rungs built into the mountain, which provide hand grips and footholds as you ascend the rock face. You clip on to a series of safety cables during your climb, which you do in small groups with a guide. Your guide will give you tips as you ascend and talk you through some of the more challenging sections.

  ONE DAY IN WHISTLER

  If you’ve come to North America’s largest winter sports resort during the ski season, you’ll likely spend your day out on the snow. But if you’re at Whistler before the snow falls, here’s how to organize a great one-day trip.

  Whistler is located on the traditional territory of two First Nations, so start your day with a visit to the modern Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre, where you can learn about the history and present-day culture of these two communities. The excellent Audain Art Museum has noteworthy collections of Northwest Coast native masks, works by contemporary Vancouver photographers, and paintings by B.C.’s Emily Carr. If you want to know more about how Whistler became the outdoor resort it is today, wander over to the informative Whistler Museum, which tells the stories of many area entrepreneurs.

  Then you want to get outdoors, whether you head up the mountain for a ride on the PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola, which wings you between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains; challe
nge yourself with a climb on the Via Ferrata; go zip-lining or mountain biking, or simply take a hike. The biggest challenge might be seeing how many activities you can fit into your single day.

  rest stop on Whistler’s Via Ferrata

  When you’ve had your fill of outdoor adventure, unwind at the forested Scandinave Spa Whistler, a Scandinavian-style bath experience where you alternate between hot soaks and cold plunges.

  Then choose one of Whistler’s top dining rooms, perhaps Araxi or the Bearfoot Bistro, for a leisurely evening meal. At Bearfoot Bistro, you can even have a nightcap in their Ketel One Ice Room, the coldest vodka tasting room in the world—a unique way to cap off your active Whistler day.

  The Via Ferrata route starts with a short hike up from the Whistler Roundhouse (at the top of the Whistler Gondola) across a boulder field or a snowy slope or both, depending on the season, to the start of the climbing route. After your climb, you hike or take the chairlift back to your starting point. Wear sturdy hiking shoes, and bring a rainproof jacket and a small backpack with water and snacks.

  You need to purchase a PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola ticket in addition to the Via Ferrata tour ticket. Via Ferrata tours are seasonal, generally beginning in late May or June and continuing until early October; tours typically start at 9am or 1pm, but call or check the website to confirm.