and corking 25, 64–5, 223–4
degorgement 220–21
labelling (habillage) 223
liqueur d’expedition 220
Moët’s bottling hall 77–8
and deposits 55
and pressure 24–5, 43, 54–5, 70
casse 65–6, 69–70
and riddling 218–20
gyropalette mechanisation 218–19
and sale restrictions 117, 141, 217
vente sur lattes 221
stacking 215
sur pointes 218
Bouché, Hippolyte 64, 75
Boullay, Jacques 38
Bouzy 19, 101, 155, 169, 186
grand crus classification 174, 177, 188–9
brand wars
and appellation d’origine 88–9, 97–8, 102
1905 statute on 93–4
Convention of Madrid (1890) 91
and noms d’origine 93
Treaty of Versailles 110
CIVC’s international diplomacy 158–9
English ‘Brandolatry’ 80–81
imitations 87–94
merchants’ imports leading to Aÿ riots 96–105
and méthode champenoise 158
and noms d’origine 91, 93
and Saumurois controversy 93
‘Spanish champagne’ 143–6
and transport dockets 99, 100
Armand de Brignac 242
Bronfman, Sam 129–30
Bruneau, Patrice 129
BSN 129
bubbles and colour on opening 235–6
Bucks Fizz 233
Budin, Michel 130, 173, 215, 251
Bureau National de Repartition des Vins de Champagne 118
Burgundian wines 17, 20, 39, 47, 59, 88
Burtin, Gaston 85, 122, 124–6, 151, 152
Butler, Samuel 25
Buyers Own Brands 89
Campos, Julie 147
Camus, Régis 209
Canard-Duchene 153
carbonic acid gas effect 6, 21, 31, 61
casse 65–6, 69–70
de Castellane 151
cellars 14–16, 77, 156, 215
Mercier 73
Moët 74
Pommery 107
Reims (World War I) 107–8, 109
Roman excavations 50, 76
cendres noirs 168
Centre Vinicole de la Champagne (CVC) 138–9, 152, 154, 203, 207, 223, 226, 244
Centre Viticole de Champagne 203
champagne
carbonic acid gas effect 6, 31, 61
and sugar 169
accompanying foods 232
champagne styles 214–15
creating 197–9
méthode rurale 21
drinking, buying and serving 234–5
early history
as a social indicator 1–2, 8
British royals and 7–8
literary and musical tributes 4–5, 6–7, 8, 26–7
louche petits soupers 46
Philippe, Duke of Orleans’ circle 46–7
as a sparkling wine 21–7
and Burgundian competition 47
cider precursors 25
colour 37–8, 39
different types 54
evolution of fizz 21, 29–30
fermentation and bottling 21, 24, 31, 43, 54
fortification and blending 24–5
grapes 34, 37, 39
Italian technology 24
popularity in Restoration London 21–7, 45
as a still wine 9
clairet 20, 180–81
‘foodies’ (Ordre des Coteaux) 19
Louis XIV’s taste for 18–19, 20, 47, 180
Sillery wine 19–20, 53
Dom Perignon see Perignon, Dom Pierre
Pluche’s memoir 37–9, 41–2
made from single vineyards 227–8
premium 148, 229–31
quality controls 116–17
and different wine types 147–8
tastes and styles (19th century) 82–4
tasting 235–6
vintage champagnes 83, 107, 116, 228–9
Champagne Academy 144
Champagne Commercial, La 101
Champagne community 2–3
classes of producers 120
firms 239–57
19th century newcomers 59–60
founding houses 49–50
public face of 76–8
growers and merchants crisis (1911) 96–105
growers and merchants partnership 110, 114, 116
individual winemakers 147–8, 156–9
market share of big firms 143
quality control 198–9
salesmen 79–80, 122–7
Syndicat 90–93, 96, 98, 109, 115
trade see trade
during World War I 107–9
during World War II Occupation 117–20
Comité de Champagne 118–19
see also Champagne region
Champagne houses (19th century) 76–8
Champagne region 95
early history 13–19
the Fronde 18
20th-21st centuries
as UNESCO World Heritage Site 85, 156
boundary redefined 112
land holdings 132–3
and tourists 159–60
Champagne-Ardennes region 164
classic Champagne viticole 169–71
climate 168–9, 195, 197–8
grand crus 177, 193–4
les caves 14–16
and see cellars
towns, villages and departments see individual names
vineyards see vineyards
see also Champagne community; Marne department
champagne styles 214–15
Champagne Viticole, La 99
Chandon de Briailles, Gaston 95, 96
Chandon de Briailles, Pierre-Gabriel 58
Chandon family 40
Chandon-Moët, Paul 36
Chanoine 152
Chappaz, Georges 110–11, 165, 167, 190–91
Chaptal, Jean-Antoine 65
Chardonnay grape 112, 171, 192–4, 236
blanc de blancs 136, 226, 255
Chardonnay vines 186, 187
Chateau de la Marquetterie 126
Chateau les Crayères 129
Chateau Thierry 133, 170, 192
Chayoux, Madame 119
Cheval, Pierre 13, 156
Chigny-les-Roses 201
Chile 80–81, 92
Chinese market 149
Chouilly 31, 37, 173, 174, 177, 203
cooperatives 138, 154
ciders 25, 93
clarets 47, 82, 231
Clarke, Oz 230
classification system 172–81
geographic complications 173–4
grand crus and premier crus distinctions 172–3
narrowing of differentials 174–5
Clicquot see Veuve Clicquot
Clicquot, Madam 56, 62–63
climate 168–9, 195, 197–8
Clos Notre Dame, Vertus 228
cocktails 227, 233
COGEVI 111–12, 154–5
Cognac region 119
Cointreau family 153
Collet, Raoul 112
colour and bubbles on opening 235–6
Comité de Champagne (CIVC) 118–19, 131, 133, 136, 142–4, 146, 156, 157–9, 172, 175–6, 179, 197–8, 208, 223
Commission de Chalons 116, 118
Commission de Propagande et de Defense du Vin de Champagne 113
Cooperative de la Vallee de la Marne (COVAMA) 138, 154
Cooperative Federation 134
Cooperative Regionale des Vins de Champagne (CRVC) 139, 154
cooperatives
first generation 111–12, 132, 134–8
second generation 138–141, 148, 154, 203, 257
corks 25, 64–5, 223–4
corkscrews 25
Côte de Sézanne 171, 194
C
ôte des Blancs 31, 37, 177, 193, 226–7, 228
firms situated in 243, 246, 250, 256, 257
see also Epernay
Coulon, Philippe 203, 221
Courvoisier 80
Cramant 31, 64, 169, 177, 189, 193, 212, 249, 252
Crayères 76
crémants 158
Damery 101
Dantan, Hervé 216
Demarville, Dominic 206
Demarville, Dominique 202
Descamps, Jacques 130
Deutz 97, 109, 115, 153–4, 159, 169, 173, 190
winemaking 214, 215, 242
Devaux 148
Diable, Robert le 64
distribution 123
Dizy 102
Dom Perignon 126–7, 150, 205, 229
as a luxury wine 150, 230–31, 250–51
founding and launch of ‘Cuvée Centenaire’ 115–16
namesake see Perignon, Dom Pierre
Dom Ruinart 194
Domaine Chandon 127
Doyard, Maurice 116
Drappier 242
Drappier, Michel 136, 159, 194
Druitt, Robert 88
Duval, Roger 194
Duval-Leroy 194, 226, 243
English market
(17th–18th centuries) 22–7, 45, 51–2, 53, 67
Merret’s Royal Society lecture 23–4
(19th century) 80, 81–4, 228–9
‘Brandolatry’ war 81–2
(20th–21st centuries) 141, 149, 153
ad valorem tax 110
English wines 3
Enjalbert, Henri 24
environmental considerations 175–6
Epernay 18, 34, 36, 48–50, 57, 60, 64, 70, 106
at time of Aÿ riots 99, 100–104
Boulevard du Nord 103
Avenue de Champagne 84–5, 125
Fort Chabrol 96
geographic advantage 48, 58
see also Côte des Blancs
Ernst, Pierre 130
Estrées, Maréchale d’ 53
Etherege, Sir George 26
Fallowfields, Giles 209
Farquahar, George 26
fermentation
pre-fermentation blending 204–5
first fermentation 202–7
artificial yeasts 203–4
sulphur dioxide use 203
temperature control 206
second fermentation and maturation 214–18
in bottle (sur latte) 214
liqueur de tirage and dosage 214–16
sales during (vente sur lattes) 221
temperature 215
time on lees 206, 216
and blending 211–14
malolactic fermentation 207–8
of Pinot Meunier 192
and reserve wines 208–11
of rosé 226
sugar (chaptalise) 65–6, 69–70, 204
tailles 208
in vats 204–5
in wood 156, 193, 204, 206
fertilizers 40
cendres noirs 168
and herbicides and fungicides 132, 175–6
and manure 38
Nicolas Feuillatte 139, 147, 148, 152, 154, 214, 243
Finnish market 109
firms 239–57
19th century newcomers 59–60
founding houses 49–50
public face of 76–8
Fontaine sur Aÿ 177–8
Forbes, Patrick 5–6, 58, 107, 184, 234, 235–6
fortification 23
Foulon, Dominique 191, 202, 227
Jacques Fourneaux 126
Fourman, Claude 114, 119
Francis, A.D. 23
Francois, André 66, 69–72
frauds see brand wars
French market 78, 87, 112, 131, 140
Fromenteau grape 194
Gamay grape 88, 98, 137
Gardinier, Xavier 128–9
Gauthier 125
Geoffroy, Henri 132, 136
Geoffroy, Richard 2, 192, 231, 251
geology of Champagne 163–72
German market 79, 91
German wines 73–5, 97–8, 100
Giesler 82, 90
Gilbey 81, 83, 93
Gillet, Pierre 137
Gimmonet, Claude 184
glass 23, 216, 234–5
glassworks 45–6
Godinot’s memoir 36
Gosset 49, 148, 153, 208, 214, 229, 244
Gosset, Alfred 77
Gouez, Benoit 3, 216, 223
Goulet, George 83
Goyard, Jean 200
grand crus 71, 177, 193–4
grapes
growing
coulure and millerandage 187
and degrees of alcohol 169
grand crus 171, 172–3
and harvesting 39–40, 195–7
rot 187–8, 195
soil and aspect 167
and yields 111, 195, 198
harvesting see harvest
pressing, litres of juice per kilo 199
trade
and allocation 142–3
classification system 172–3
harvest and extraction controls 117
price controls 116, 118, 157, 172–3
prices 149, 152
(1980s) 142
varieties (cepages)
of early champagne making 34, 37, 39–40
Arbanne 194
black, vin gris 34, 39
Chardonnay 112, 126, 137, 171, 192–4, 236
blanc de blancs 136, 226, 255
Fromenteau 194
Gamay 88, 98, 137
Petit Meslier 194
Pinot Blanc 194
Pinot Gris 39
Pinot Meunier 2, 112, 138, 170, 190–91
Pinot Noir 20, 39, 112, 136–7, 171, 188–9, 213, 221
blends and firms’ style 214–15, 231, 253, 257
compared with the Meunier 190–91
Alfred Gratien 244
Great Depression 112–117
growers and merchants crisis (1911) 96–105
Grylls, Michael 143–4
Guillard, Michel 15, 156
harvest 195–7
1909 and 1909 crops 99
1955 crop 121, 124, 138
1959 crop 142
1970 crop 138
1982 and 1983 crops 142
and climate change 198
Dom Pierre Perignon’s practice 39–40
during Great Depression 113
during World War I 107
and stock regulator 142
Haut-Marne department 164
Hautvillers abbey 21, 29, 31, 40
vineyard, agricultural holdings and dime 32–3
Heidsieck 90, 209, 245
Charles Heidsieck 74, 150, 209, 214, 245, 246
Heidsieck family 63
Charles-Camille Heidsieck 79
Florens-Louis Heidsieck 74
Heidsieck Monopole 74, 130, 152–3, 244, 249
Henriot 245–6
Henriot, Alexandre 77
Henriot, Joseph 128, 150–51
Heriard-Dubreuil, André 209
Hungary 92
Hymans, Edward 21
imitations see brand wars
Indian ‘Marquise de Pompadour’ 158
individual winemakers 147–8, 156–9
Institut National des Appellations Contrôlées (INAO) 174, 179
Italian technology 24
Jacquart 139–40, 148, 246
Jacquesson 57, 59, 206–7, 228, 246–7
Japanese market 149
Jullien 61, 64
Kauffmann, Jean-Paul 3
Keeling, Robert 144, 145
Kennedy, Terence 159
Kessler, George A. 80
Krug 8, 206, 208, 210–11, 229, 247
1979 Clos de Mesnil 228
1981 vin de reserve 188
1995 Clos Ambonnay 228
Grande Cuvée 191
takeover 129
Krug, Henri 191, 207, 210
&nbs
p; Krug, Joseph 74
Krug, Paul 94
Kuhlman, Philippe 151
Kunkelmann, J.C. 79
Lallier, André 115, 142–3, 169, 173, 190, 213
Lamarre, René 89–90, 99
Lanson 7, 128, 207, 228, 247–8
Lanson, Victor 122, 128, 137
Lanson-BCC 152, 240, 241, 248, 250
Larmandier-Bernier 157
Laurent-Perrier 8, 122, 126, 152, 214, 222, 252
brut 220
Coteaux Champenois 123
Grand Siècle 123, 229
Lawrence QC, Geoffrey 145
Lepitre, Madame Abel 119
Les Riceys 180–81
Leuvrigny 191
liqueur de tirage 65
literary and musical tributes 4–5, 6–7, 8, 26–7, 225, 235
Live-Ex 231
Louis Roederer 254–5
Luttrell, Henry 26–7
LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE) 150, 153, 247, 248, 254, 257
Macquart, Henri 138–9
Maizière, Armand de 55, 60
le malo 207–8
‘Manière de cultiver la vigne et de faire le vin en Champagne’ 36
manure 38
Maréchale d’Estrées, Madame 53, 56
Mareuil-sur-Ay 200
Mariotti, Didier 210
Marne department 13, 16, 18–19, 51, 64, 71, 88–9, 133
Aÿ riots see Aÿ
Epernay see Epernay
First Battle of the Marne 107
Grand Syndicat Antiphylloxerique de la Marne 95–6
Hautvillers see Hautvillers abbey
during phylloxeria 94–6
production (1920s) 111
Reims see Reims
see also Champagne region
Marne et Champagne 124, 125–6, 152, 248
maturation 206, 216
and riddling 218–20
Maudière, Edmond 191
Maury, Pierre 136–8
Merand, Madame 119
Mercier 128, 192
Mercier, Eugene 72–3, 79
Merret, Dr Christopher 24
méthode champenoise 157–8
Michel-Lecacheur, Emile 99, 102, 104
Mignon, Abbé 45
mixing champagne 227, 233
Moët 94, 212, 214
American market 79–80
and the CVC 139
business development 248–9
takeovers under Joseph Henriot 150–51
under Robert-Jean de Vogue 113–16, 126–8
English agents 116
premises 84, 156, 159, 160
bottling hall and cellars 77–8
pressoir 201
vineyards 179, 184, 197, 231
winemaking 192
bottling and riddling 216, 218, 219
degorgement 219, 223
fermentation 203, 205, 207, 210, 215
liqueur d’expedition 220
pressing 199, 201
reserve wine 210
wines
1964 Moët 193
Brut Imperial 124, 191
Dom Perignon 150, 230–31, 250–51
White Seal 80
worker relationships 105–6
during World War II 119
Moët family 40
Moët, Claude (1683–1760) 84
Moët, Jean-Rémy 56, 57, 58, 84
Moët-Hennesy 127
Moncomble, Dominique 176, 197, 198
Mongueux 194
The Story of Champagne Page 30