Montagne de Reims 18–19, 170, 172, 177
geology 165–6, 169–70
grapes 188–9, 197, 241, 244, 255
la petite montagne 173
Sillery’s vines 19–20
wines 34, 64
Moreau-Berillon, C. 49, 88
mousse 35–6, 54–5, 65, 69, 215
Mumm 7, 74, 79, 90, 210
Cordon Rouge 79
takeovers 130, 153, 249
Mumm family 74
Murge, Henry 46
musical and literary tributes 4–5, 6–7, 8, 26–7, 225, 235
New Zealand wine 146
niche producers 147–8, 156–9, 227
non-champagne wines 3
Nonancourt, Bernard de 122–4, 126, 151, 255
Olry-Roederer, Madame 119, 130
Oudard, Dom Jean 31–2, 37
Bruno Paillard 250
Palmer 250
Panigai, Laurent 178, 198
Pannier 138, 148, 154, 192, 248
Passy-sur-Marne 133
Perignon, Dom Pierre 20, 24, 25, 32, 33–4
winemaking 29–30
blending 42
clarifying method 42
grapes 37
and harvesting 39–40
pressing 41, 199
and ‘secret’ myth 35–7
encouraging mousse 36
Pernod-Ricard 153
Joseph Perrier 153, 214, 251
Perrier, Charles 106
Perrier, Joseph 59
Perrier-Jouët 77, 82–3, 130, 148, 153, 251–2
Belle Epoque 84, 130, 217
premises 84–5
production 215
takeovers 153, 249
pests and diseases 183
and herbicides and fungicides 132, 175–6
moths 187
phylloxera 94–6
rot 187–8, 195
Petit Meslier grape 194
Philipponnat 152, 252
Clos des Goisses 228
Philipponnat, Charles 210
Philippoteaux, Francois 123
phylloxera 94–6
and vine replanting 110–11
Pierard, Jean 133
Pierre, Abbé 36, 39–40
Pierry 31, 37, 106
Pinot Blanc grape 194
Pinot Gris grape 39
Pinot Meunier grape 2, 112, 138, 170, 190–91
Pinot Noir grape 20, 39, 112, 136–7, 171, 188–9, 213, 221
blends and firms’ style 214–15, 231, 253, 257
compared with the Meunier 190–91
Pinto Noir vines 186, 187, 228, 241, 243
Piper 119
Piper-Heidsieck 79, 127, 158, 209, 253
Pluche’s memoir 14, 37–9, 41–2
Pol Roger 3, 85, 107, 213, 214, 225, 230, 239, 253
Pol Roger, Madame Odette 107
Pol Roger, Maurice 108–9, 192
Polignac family 76, 106
Alain de Polignac 207
Guy de Polignac 128
Princesse Guy de Polignac 120
Melchior, Marquis de Polignac 106–7, 116, 119–20
Pommery 153
Brut (1874) 83, 228
cellars 107
Clos de Pompadour 228
fermentation 206, 208
under Xavier Gardinier 128–9
Pommery & Greno 106, 254
Pommery, Madame de 75–6, 78, 106, 107
Pompadour, Madame de 52, 324–5
G. & J. Porter 71
premier crus 172
premier prix 128, 151–2
premium champagnes 148, 229–31
pressing 199
first pressing (cuvee) 199–200
second pressing (tailles) 200, 208
third pressing (rebeche) 200
paniers 199
pressoirs 135, 199, 202
Chigny-les-Roses 201
Moët 201
Montebello 200, 201–2
Price, Lloyd 83
pruning 38
Rafai, Gérard 157
Ratafia 82
récoltants manipulants 120, 134–5, 140, 155
Redding, Cyrus 61
Reims 13, 16–17, 36, 106, 107, 170, 179, 228
brokers’ licences 48–9
cellars 107–8, 109
Rémy Martin 129, 209
Grande Cuvée 129
Reserve de l’Empereur Blanche 79
reserve wines 208–11
Revue des Deux Mondes 89
Revue Scientifique 70
riddling (remuage) 64, 218–20
to degorgement 220–21
Rivière wines and grapes 18–19, 34, 42, 96
Robert, René 139
Robinson, Jancis 188, 194, 211, 228
Roche, Emile 33, 67
Rocheret, Bertin de 45
Roederer 79, 89, 153, 159, 219, 242, 254
Brut Premier 255
Cristal 79, 148, 215, 230
vineyards 130–31
winemaking 196–7, 206, 214, 215, 223, 227, 229
rosé 231, 232, 240, 247, 252, 255
production 226
Rosé des Riceys 180–81
trade in 225–6
Rosset, Fabrice 154
Rouzaud, Jean-Claude 130–31, 175–6, 197, 228, 254
Royal Society 23–4
Ruinart Pere & Fils 128, 255
Russian market 79, 158
Russian wines 88, 92, 159
St Evremond, Marquis de 19, 22–3, 34
sales see trade
Salon 151, 214, 221, 230, 231, 255
Saumurois controversy 93
Saunders Magazine 88
Seagram 129–30, 153, 249
Jacques Selosse 206, 256
Selosse, Anselme 156
Shaw, T.G. 83
Sillery 19–20
Simon Brothers 116, 127
Simon, André 31, 64, 72, 81, 82, 83–4, 115, 225
Skelton, Stephen 25
Societe d’Amenagement Foncier et d’Etablissement Rural (SAFER) 133
Societe d’lntervention de la Champagne Viticole 142
soil 31, 38
bassin parisien 164
belimnita chalk 167
and cendres noirs 168
fungi and bug fumigants 184–5
‘Spanish champagne’ 143–6
Stevenson, Tom 186, 188, 193, 211
sugar 36
added during fermentation (chaptalise) 65, 204
and brut sans année 220
gleuco-oenometre 69
liqueur d’expedition 220–3
liqueur de tirage 214
la reduction Francois 69–72
supermarkets and premier prix champagnes 151–2, 234
Sutaine, Max 58, 64, 70–71, 73–4
Sutcliffe, Serena 191, 215, 232
Syndicat 90–93, 96, 98, 109, 115
Taittinger 31, 126, 137, 154, 213, 256
Comtes de Champagne 230, 232
Taittinger, Catherine 106
Taittinger, Claude 143, 178
Taittinger, Pierre 126
Taittinger, Pierre-Emanuel 154
takeovers 128–30, 150–56, 209, 214, 245, 249
tariffs see taxes and tariffs
Tarlant 206, 214, 256
Tarlant, Paul 156, 256
tasting 235–6
taxes and tariffs
American tariff 91
English ad valorem tax 91, 101
French 33–4, 45, 50–51, 140, 174
technical revolution (18th century) 61–6
Thibault, Daniel 209
Thienot, Alain 153
Topographie de tous les vignobles connus 61–3
tourism 159–60
trade
17th–18th centuries 48–56
biggest markets 53
and class conflict among growers 51
exports (mid-1700s) 52
founding houses 49–50
and geographic advantage 58
Royal authority and c
ourtiers’ monopoly 48–9, 53
swing to still wines 53
19th century 58–64
and competition 58–9
exports (1840s) 71
fighting imitations 87–94
prices and quality 71–2, 88–9
publicity 76–7
tariffs 91
20th century 148
1950–1980 131
during Great Depression 112–13
effects of World War I 107
post-war abstention 109–10
effects of World War II 121
exports (1930s) 117
exports (1950s-1980s) 140–41
exports, cooperatives (1980s) 140
market shares 143, 148
through COGEVI 112
21st century 148–9
premium champagnes 230–31
rosé 225–6
supermarkets 151–2, 234
markets see individual countries
taxes see taxes
trade unions 133
transportation 18, 51
trente glorieuses 121–34
Tricaud, Pierre-Marie 156
Trimm, Timothée 87
Troy, Jean Francois de 46–7
UNESCO World Heritage Site 85, 156
Union Champagne De Saint Gall 257
Union Champagne, Avize 136
Union de Champagne Cooperative 132
Union des Cooperatives Auboises des Vins de Champagne (UCAVIC) 138
United Kingdom of Great Britain see English market
United States of American see American market
Valade, Michel 198
vats 204–5
Vaux, Cadet de 65
Vendome, Duc de 46
Venn, Lawrence 115
Venteuil 101
Versy 189
Vertus 116, 228
Verzenay 110, 188, 189
Vesselle, Georges 183, 185, 187, 188–9
Veuve Clicquot 3, 4, 7, 64, 79, 82, 137, 214, 257
1985 rosé 148
1989 and 1988 Trilennium 148
cocktail wine 227
La Grande Dame 230
takeover and merger 150, 151, 246
under Madame Clicquot 60–63
Veuve Devaux 157, 257
Vichy government 118
Vichy water 92
Villepin, Alain de 134
Villers Marmery 194
vin gris 34, 39
vines 183–94
combatting late frosts 186–7
the debourrement 186
grafting and propogation 183–5
chlorose 187
gross income per hectare 142
grown en foule 228
herbicides and fungicides 132, 175–6
longevity 195
and phylloxera 94–6, 110
planting patterns 185
pruning 38, 185–6
uprooting 184
vineyards
17th century Hautvillers 32–3
19th century acres and yields 71
20th century
Aube replanting 112
changes (droits de plantation) 131–4
hectares in production and replanting 110–11
land purchase restrictions 132–3
aspect and altitude 165, 167, 169–71
classification 172–81
appellation 174–80
geographic complications 173–4
grand crus and premier crus distinctions 172–3
narrowing of differentials 174–5
environmental considerations 175–6
geography 163, 170
geology 163–72
the montagne 165–6, 169–70
Jullien’s categories 61
selling price 178
super-crus 189
vins clair 134, 142–3
vins mousseux 94
vins sur lattes 124
vintage champagnes 83, 107, 116, 228–9
Vizetelly, Henry 40, 59, 105
Vogue, Robert-Jean de 113–16, 126–8, 144
arrest 119
belief in partnerships 116, 119
Vranken, Paul-Francois 152–3
Vuitton-Clicquot-Henriot 151
Wagner, Richard 7
Walbaum, Henri-Louis 90
Werlé, Alfred 95
World War I 107–9
World War II 117–20
yeasts 21, 214, 216
artificial 203–4
during riddling 218
yields 195
following phylloxera 111
increase restrictions 38, 198
and vine age 184
Young, Arthur 19
Copyright © Nicholas Faith 1988, 2016
The right of Nicholas Faith to be identified as the author of this book has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.
First published in 1988
This edition published 2016 by
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Front cover © Mick Rock/Cephas Picture Library; Back cover (top left), pages 204 and 218 © Michel Guillard/Collection CIVC; Back cover (top middle), page 12 courtesy of Michel Guillard; Back cover (top right) © Visuel Impact/Collection CIVC; Back cover (bottom), page 162 © Richard Newton/Dom Perignon; Pages 28 and 32 © Michel Jolyot/Dom Perignon; Pages 50 and 57 © Moët & Chandon; Page 72 © Mercier; Page 238 © Michel Jolyot/Mercier; Page 86 courtesy of Champagne Drappier; Page 122 courtesy of Laurent Perrier; Page 243 courtesy of Duval-Leroy; Page 205 © Alain Cornu/Collection CIVC; Page 196 © John Hodder/Collection CIVC; Page 200 © Michel Hetier/Collection CIVC; Page 201 © Tor Eigeland/Collection CIVC; Page 219 © François Bonal/Collection CIVC.
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The Story of Champagne Page 31