Birds of Passage

by Henrietta Clive

  October 15th, Henrietta to Lady Clive

  My dear Lady Clive – I shall not let the ships go without saying a word to you though the chance is that you are a very long time before you will receive it as we have not yet heard of the arrival of the Dover Castle in England, which left this place this time last year. Therefore it is most likely you may be many months before you receive this epistle. We are much disappointed in not having the letters from England. The ships that left in June are supposed to have gone on directly to Bengal from the Season being far advanced. They were seen on the 29th of the last month by a vessel, which told another ship and we have heard it here. The monsoon being expected everyday from tomorrow, as you know well. No ships will come in here any more. It is a sad thing to see the Road without a ship for two months. We shall probably have the letters in a fortnight or three weeks from Calcutta.

  Did I tell you in my last letter that Mrs Woodhouse was going to be married? She is so now to Mr Rothman, one of Lord Mornington’s secretaries, a very good sort of man with a good fortune and will probably increase it. He is not young and has been here many years. She went with her spouse to Calcutta so that we have only Signora Anna with your granddaughters who go on as usual to perfection. I assist as much as I can and so we go on. We are still at the Island, which probably was not a place you ever saw as I doubt if its merit was known or that there were any houses on it at that time. It is near Mt Thomas, but across the river. The air is perfect and so fresh that I delight in it. The girls are in the most perfect health and spirits growing both tall and stout. They will soon arrive at the size of their grandmamma, Harriet being now 4 feet 10 and ½ inches and Charlotte one inch shorter. In the last three weeks, Harriet has increased three pounds in weight. Lord Clive is quite well and I think looks much better than he has ever done since he came here. I am so, too; except now and then I still grow thin which though you know I can bear it I do not wish to do too much. The cool Season will do us good. I did not ever think till I came here that I should long for a rainy day, which I assure you I do extremely.

  October 18th, Henrietta to Lady Clive, continued

  The long expected ships are gone on to Calcutta. The monsoon is expected every day but at present there is not any appearance of it. We must wait for letters with as much patience as we can till their return from Calcutta. It is a sad disappointment to us. With every good wish to you and all belonging to and with you from every person here particularly Lord Clive and the girls who are now really growing great girls.

  Adieu my dear Lady Clive,

  Your affectionate daughter.

  During October, Charly indicated that there were few activities. Her time seemed to have been spent between the Island and Garden House. On October 25th she noted: ‘no event, but the arrival of Lord Mornington’s picture’.‡

  Undated, Henrietta to George Herbert, 2nd Earl of Powis

  My dearest brother – I did not write by the last overland dispatch because I was at Ennore or rather at Pulicat§ where Lord Clive went on an expedition that was pretty equal to any. We went to Irum, which is usually inhabited only in the land winds on account of its being surrounded by water, just as the Monsoon began. We had one expedition by water and palanquins in a most decided rain in an open boat that was nothing. A few days afterwards we set out in spite of some black clouds and some rain to Pulicat. We arrived in palanquins and crossed two rivers in perfect safety. We were received very hospitably by the Commandant and saw the remains of the Dutch fort in a fine shower. The next morning we were all to go to the lake. It poured with a great deal of wind and considerable waves. We females declined going with Lord Clive who set out in a great unwieldy boat and men that were never used to anything but the surf at Madras. The boat could not sink as it is made to resist all dashing waves. He was to return at the latest in the evening. We were foolish enough to go in another great boat to fish, but were wet to the skin in half an hour and glad to get home.

  Lord Clive did not return that night. I had great uneasiness … The rain was incessant. The squalls were so violent. The river so much increased that in another night it would have been impassable and the only chance of getting to Ennore was by water. Lord Clive did not arrive at Pulicat until 8 the night following. He was 30 hours in the boat. It was impossible for his party to land on the Island. The Dutch people have talked of nothing else since and I am persuaded will do so for sometime. I assure you I was in very great alarm.

  Your nieces are growing very much. Harriet will be a large person I believe. It is very extraordinary but they are never so well in this house at Fort St George as in any other place. We have colds more or less now but that is not to wonder at. It is nearly decided that I and my girls go to Bangalore in March and remain there till August or September. It is quite cool at that time and will be very pleasant. I hope Lord Clive will come to us there in the summer and go on with us to Seringapatam and from thence by Madura and Trichinopoly is my scheme by which means we shall see all the great horn and the most beautiful country besides, avoiding the land winds. Captain Brown will go with us as we shall have tents and camp everyday and from Bangalore may go on any little journeys where there is anything to be seen worth our observation. The life here is so dull and so much the same that a little change is absolutely necessary to keep on being alive.

  I have sent a letter to Probert enclosed to you about my affairs, which are certainly flourishing. I am very rich and have a great increase British pounds 800 (£800) in all here and British pounds 200 (£200) in England as I had settled when I left it for things to be sent. British pounds 800 here sounds prodigious but really every thing as to dress is just two thirds more than in England and I have had as yet but one small collection of things sent out.

  November 29th, Henrietta to George Herbert, continued

  I do not think I have anything more to add at present. We are all well. Signora Anna is the person that complains the most and has almost said that the climate will not do much longer. She is now unwell and low and I believe has not made so much as she expected to do here. I have told Lord Clive of it and very much doubt her remaining.

  You will be glad to hear that Lord Mornington has said at Calcutta that Lord Clive and he lived here like brothers, which came round to me by William Rothman. I believe he is very anxious Lord Clive should remain here as long as he does at Calcutta and I believe feels much about him in regard to his good conduct and assistance to himself. He said that if it had not been for that Seringapatam would not have been taken. My Love to my dear boys. I shall send them some little odd things by the fleet.

  Charly’s journal added a few more details about her Papa’s adventures: ‘November 1st. Having no tidings of Papa, we were very near remaining the day at Pulicat, but as the weather was getting worse, and the night passage would not be safe, we started and went by the seaside and saw the wreck of a sloop from Vizagapatam. There were not two planks together. Two boats sunk in the night, and their crews lost. We crossed the river at Ennore in a ferryboat. When we arrived, we heard of poor Friskey’s death the day before.’ ‘November 2nd. Major Grant came from Madras to breakfast with us, and after breakfast a letter arrived from Papa to say that he had arrived at Pulicat. They arrived at Irum at 5 o’clock the day they started. For thirty hours, they had nothing to eat but a pamplemousse. Major Grant came over, in the full belief that they were drowned. They arrived at Ennore very tired. Major Grant went back to Madras.’ ‘November 3rd. We returned to Madras, via Tripatore, where there is a fine pagoda.’ ‘November 5th. We went to a breakfast at the Patheon, given by Colonel and Mrs Floyd. The Star and Badge to be presented to Lord Mornington from the army was shown to all the party. They were very handsome, especially the Badge. We went into the Theatre to see some jugglers. Lord Mornington sent Papa a severe reprimand for his Pulicat expedition, adding that Madras would not do without a Governor or Lady Clive without a husband.’

  * The Mysore campaign that ended in 1791.

  † Perhaps a refer
ence to Joseph Brant, a Mohawk leader and British military officer during the American Revolutionary War. Brant met many of the most significant people of the age, including George Washington and King George III, founded Brantford (in Ontario) around 1784 and, on numerous occasions, tried to intercede between British, French and American forces. In his constant negotiations with heads of state, Brant was clearly duplicitous; wearing whatever ‘hat’ suited his sense of whom to trust and which way to turn. Likewise Meer Allum was duplicitous in his relationship with the British and the Nizam.

  ‡ A portrait of Mornington painted by Thomas Hickey after the surrender of Seringapatam. It was hung in the Madras Exchange along with those of Cornwallis and Eyre Coote.

  § Small towns a few miles north of Madras at the mouth of the River Cotteliar

  1800

  Travelling the Great Horn

  ‘Not with seven leagued boots but with elephants and camels like an Eastern damsel with all possible dignity.’

  From the fair copy of Charly’s journal made by W. H. Ramsey in 1857

  By the beginning of 1800, Henrietta’s passion to travel within the India of her imagination had evaded her. Unwell with one of India’s indigenous fevers, she remained confined to Madras which was now beset with January rains. Determined to experience her own India, she held steadfastly to her need to realise her simmering ‘indescribable wish’. By the end of January her prospects to travel began to look more promising.

  January 22nd, Henrietta to Lady Clive

  My dear Lady Clive – The night before last I gave a great ball for the Queen’s Birthday and your granddaughters danced from ten o’clock till near three in the morning and could have gone on a good while longer. I confess I was not easy about them last year, but now they seem quite stout and I hope a little change of air during the hot months will be of great service to us all and we think with some pleasure of going to more distance from this place and seeing a little more of the country.

  It is impossible to imagine the sameness and dullness of this place [Madras] and the confinement in the morning is a very unpleasant circumstance to us. We had a few words in general of the good health of all the family from William Strachey by the last overland dispatch, which was a great happiness to us, yet we long for letters from everyone. In particular at this horrible distance every little circumstance is very interesting and it is many months since I had a word from you. I cannot help thinking of a good fire and the little worktable near it where I used to sit at Oakly Park, with nieces and children at another table, with great envy and had rather see one of the old oaks than the finest Banyan Tree in India.

  The fleet carries home General Harris and his family all covered with money and jewels from Seringapatam. Mrs Harris is a very good woman with a great many children and has taken the greatest care of them here and will now I believe be much happier for all the honours that will probably attend the General such as Peerage Lord if that is to be the case in England. Most of the people I know the best are going at the same time which will not render this place more agreeable.

  Charly’s diary gave some indications of the happenings at Madras for the next few days:

  January 26th Flirty’s bad health caused us to send her home under the care of Mrs Kindersley. She appeared in the procession that attended General Harris on his departure; she was carried by one man and her basket by another.

  January 27th The elephants taken at Seringapatam went off today, a present to the Nizam. One had a golden howdah and cloth worked in black spots, to imitate a leopard; the other a silver howdah, and cloth similarly decorated.

  January 31st, Henrietta to George Herbert, 2nd Earl of Powis

  My dearest brother … I am now at the Mount for change of air. Our last expedition was not so good. When I wrote last, rains came with violence and we were obliged to come way from William Call’s, which Lord Clive has taken for a few months … I hope we shall set out to Ryacottah and Bangalore in March.

  Lord Clive will once again be denied the opportunity to travel as he is to remain in place to look after great works that are going on in the Government, no less I believe than the regulation of the Judicial and Civil establishment all over this country. Therefore there was a great doubt if Lord Clive could leave this place for a week without the Government being in charge of the council, which was not approved. The power being great and there are many obvious objections (which you will understand) to the power being in any hands not quite white which must have been the case. It seems that it might for a few days and that he may visit us and see a little of this country, which I am sure will be necessary for his health; when we are gone the house will be even less cheerful than it is now.

  We expect great pleasure and health to attend us. At least it will be variety.

  I am now under the disagreeable necessity of hunting for a maid amongst soldiers and sergeants’ wives. Two I brought are disposed of: Lee’s sister is married and a fine Lady and Thomas’s wife nursing a child. Sally is with me, but I fear in a bad state of health and has been scarcely well enough to attend me more than a few days at a time for some weeks. I am afraid she will not be able to be of much use on our journey. Therefore I have your nieces only to assist me.

  I assure you, seeing General Harris and all those people setting out was a sad day. We gave a great breakfast to them and all the settlement. The streets were lined with troops and it was really a fine sight and one could not help wishing oneself in the same situation.

  Lord Clive is well and is in good spirits. The girls I do now feel perfect. I long to hear from you and above all to see you. The fleet sailed the 26th January; therefore, you may know when to expect them. God bless you. My love to my dear Boys. How I long to see you all again.

  Ever, my dearest brother,

  a thousand loves to you, affectionately

  H. A. C.

  Henrietta undoubtedly was busy with preparations for the journey; there are no journal entries for February from her and only one from Charly: ‘February 3rd We went with Papa to the Garden House and breakfasted in the Octagon, a pavilion at the end of the grounds, that has always belonged to the Governor. The Nawab claims it, and as Papa does not choose to enter into any discussions with him, he relinquishes it.’

  Finally in March everything was in place for the four female travellers to set off on their adventure. The journey itself got underway with great fanfare on March 4th, as indicated by Charly in her journal: ‘After having seen the Body Guard reviewed, we commenced our journey in palanquins, and took possession of our tents (which had previously been pitched) by the Race stand, seven miles from Madras, and about one and a half miles from St Thomas’s Mount.

  ‘Fourteen elephants were employed to carry our tents, which consisted of two large round tents, six Field officers, three Captains and several smaller tents for the cavalry, infantry &c. by whom we were escorted. Four elephants were employed in carrying a part of our baggage; two were not loaded that had been trained for carrying howdahs, which we sometimes rode when the weather was not too oppressive. We had two camels, which were mostly used for carrying messages, and one hundred bullocks to draw the bandies in which all the rest of our baggage was to be conveyed.

  ‘Our party consisted of Mamma, Signora Tonelli, my sister and myself, Captain Brown, and Dr Horsman. Papa, Major Grant, Mr Thomas &c. only came a short way with us, as it was impossible for the former to be absent for any length of time from the seat of government, without resigning his situation till his return; which was very unfortunate for us, as by that means, we had not his company farther than Chingleput.

  ‘Mohammed Giaffer commanded the detachment of the bodyguard, consisting of 30 men; and the infantry were commanded by a Soubadar and a Jemadar and amounted to 66 men, including 16 boys, who had been selected to act as our orderlies.

  ‘We found it necessary to take all our servants, for travelling in India is not like travelling in Europe, as were obliged to take every article for cooking &c. &c. that could possi
bly be wanted. This of course occasioned a great number of followers, as all our servants took their wives, and those of higher caste their slaves to prepare their meals, which do not give great trouble, as they only eat boiled rice and curry, the latter of which is made up of meat and vegetables, which they never vary, and only drink water. When every soul was assembled they amounted to 750 persons!! … which is not in India a very great number, and it is not to be wondered at when all is considered.

  ‘We remained at this place the next day and saw Lord Wellesley’s bodyguard reviewed. They were then under Lieutenant Daniels command. I saw the great superiority the Madras bodyguard had over the Bengal; they had been trained under Major Grant’s orders and Lord Wellesley testified his approbation by increasing their number, and ordering a body of them to follow him to Calcutta, chosen out of this fine corps, and which were not ready to embark.’