Birds of Passage

by Henrietta Clive

  March 15th, Henrietta’s journal

  I left Arcot early in the morning and came to Vellore.

  The country improves much, and the last few miles is through an avenue of old and large Banyan trees … Col Doveton met me at the end of the town upon an elephant. The howdah, which he had made to hold myself and my daughters, was so constructed that we could sit with our feet down, and not as the natives use them. I passed the fort to go to Col Doveton’s country house, where we breakfasted; there is a large garden, with a great variety of trees, green and flourishing, which is not generally the case in India. There are two buildings in the garden, where we slept; the tents were pitched beyond. Col Doveton from having the charge of Tipu’s four sons cannot sleep out of the fort. In the evening I went round the fort. It is exactly a mile in circuit by the ramparts, and appears extremely strong. The country is much more beautiful than I expected, and the surrounding hills high and rough, like those at the Cape, the valley much cultivated, with many trees and topes. I believe I saw an alligator in the ditch surrounding the fort, which is supposed to be much infested by them. I intended not to have remained beyond this day at Vellore, but the heat had affected Charly a good deal. Therefore I was under the necessity of remaining another day.

  I had declined seeing the Princes, but Col Doveton told me that the three younger ones had been particularly anxious during the last week for my arrival, therefore it was thought right for me to receive them. The baggage was obliged to be changed, as one of the elephants’ backs was hurt, and the division of his load took up a good deal of arrangement.

  March 15th, Vellore, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  I was in great hopes to have heard from you yesterday and I depend upon it today … We went in the evening to see the fort. It is a sad ruinous place. The mud walls are still remaining sufficiently to show the extent of the fort and the view in crossing the river (which like all the rivers in this country, a bed of sand, except in the monsoon) is very pretty. There are mosques and some buildings amongst the trees, and a background of wild mountains. The fort is most extremely narrow, populous, and dirty: everybody looking poorer. All is desolate. Not a good specimen of a capital. From thence to a house building for his Highness, where our white and gold friend received us. It has a tank behind it and the room is a hall supported by white chunam pillars and hung with lamps more like my ideas of an Eastern Hall than any I have seen.

  From thence to the fort and saw the breaches made in the wall by your father. It was late and it soon grew dark, but I was determined to see as much as I could for a place so remarkable in the annals of this family. The dust and heat were prodigious. I was much tired, but had great pleasure in seeing this interesting place.

  March 16th, Henrietta to Lord Clive, continued

  We breakfasted in the commanding officer’s fort-house. During the day we saw a palace which is building for Tipu’s and Haider’s wives (about 500 in number) … They’re to be allowed two apartments each, besides a verandah, which must appear very magnificent to them, after the confined space they have been accustomed to live in.

  I went at seven o’clock to the fort, and an old pagoda, magnificent and well-carved, constructed of granite now converted into a military storehouse. The sculpture is much better than any I have yet seen, some of the open work is extremely neat, and well executed. There is a tyger cut in granite, and the stone is so hard that though it has been attempted to take a bell out of the tyger’s mouth, it could not be done, but part of the jaw was broken without moving the bell. It is thought to be very ancient. Col Doveton has established a school, for the children of the soldiers of the Scotch Brigade, who are in garrison here; and to take care of the four Princes, Futteh Haidar, Abdul Khaliq, Moyen Uddeen and Mousa Uddeen.

  I breakfasted at the commanding officer’s house, and afterwards the Princes came to see me. Moyen Uddeen and Mousa Uddeen came from their house opposite on horseback; the countenance of the latter, the Padshaw (being a legitimate son) is extremely interesting; there is a great appearance of gentleness in his countenance. I understand that Col Wellesley was much pleased with his manners at Seringapatam. His brother’s appearance was quite different; his spirited, and even fierce eyes, were extremely expressive of his character, which is violent and cruel. He has great pleasure in beating his servants, and tormenting animals; once he had a horse rubbed over with gunpowder, and then set on fire. Col Doveton has been under the necessity of interfering on many occasion, not always with proper effect. He is the younger of the two hostages, brought by Lord Cornwallis to Madras; he was then a child, but very acute and clever. I have heard that Lady Oakly was very kind and attentive to both the hostages; she said (through the Interpreter) to the youngest, that she would teach him English, and that he must teach her his language; he answered her, that she might teach him English, but she was too old to learn his language.

  A short time after they came, Abdul Khaliq arrived, who is illegitimate, his mother having been a slave; the other brothers look upon him with great contempt; of course, I got to receive him, and his brothers did the same, but they said to Col Doveton afterwards, that they should not have done so, if I had not thought he was their elder brother. He has a most sulky countenance, and really the appearance of a slave, unlike the general countenances of the Mussulmans; he was more dressed than the others, being in silver muslin, with a red and gold turban. The Padshaw has not worn any turban, only a shawl twisted round his head, since the death of his father, which with them is a sign of mourning. A little boy, brother-in-law to the Padshaw, came with Abdul Khaliq. He was very fair, but not pretty, and his gold turban, and bright rose-colour embroidered sash, did not add to his beauty.

  They enquired after Lady Oakly, and spoke a good deal to Col Doveton, when after the usual ceremonies of betel and ottah, they went away. The mothers of both the young Princes were of high caste; one of them (the Padshaw’s) is dead. After they were gone, Futteh Haidar came; he had never been in any English house, or seen any English women, and had not till that morning expressed that he wished to pay his respects to me. Futteh Haidar is said to be very like his father, indeed he resembles all the drawings I have seen of him. He is fat, and has a most remarkable thick neck, like Tipu’s; there is a most terrific expression in his countenance, and I fancied I could see as he looked round him a wish to have the English in his power. One of his attendants stood near to him whom he frequently looked at, and appeared to express something in those looks, which we did not understand. His manners were more polished, than those of his brothers, he having mixed more with the world. I really could have looked at him till I had been frightened; there is something so fierce in his aspect. He passes his time in reading, and in his zenana, in great retirement, in continual regret for having surrendered himself a prisoner. He says Purneah* deceived him by advising him to surrender, saying that it would be most likely to soften the English Government towards him; he could have occasioned much trouble, if he had not come into Seringapatam. He, however, could not have inherited the musnud by right (not being legitimate) yet it is supposed had Tipu died a natural death, there would have been a struggle between Futteh Haidar and the Padshaw.

  They had each several wives. Futteh Haidar married a great-granddaughter of Chunda Sahib and has had seven children, who are all dead; one died on the road to Vellore, and the last since he came here. His wives’ habitation is divided by a high wall from those of Abdul Khaliq, and there was lately a serious engagement between these zenanas. His elder wives overheard something impertinent said of them by the young ones of Abdul Khaliq, and resented it; stones were presently thrown from each party till the stones were exhausted. Then they sent their old female attendants out into the street to collect more. A message came to Colonel Doveton to inform him of this civil war, and he sent them word that unless peace was immediately established, that he should be under the necessity of sending in a guard which would disgrace them for ever. This quieted the fury of the combatants.

  Col Dove
ton described Mousa Uddeen as very clever, as I have before mentioned, and ready for any expedition if he could possibly get out of the fort, or for any mischief. A few days ago he sent to desire Col Doveton would drive him to a great camel feast, where there are usually some thousands of people assembled, but he declined it. The Padshaw is more gentle and reserved in his manner, but it is a pity they do not attend to reading or some part of education; they only play like much younger boys.

  Futteh Haidar says he was alarmed for the safety of his family at the taking of Seringapatam, but perhaps the reason I have before given may also have some weight with him. There is not the least friendship subsisting between the brothers; they never meet but in great form. Two of Tipu’s daughters are here, and said to be very beautiful. In his pocketbook at the time of his death, Tipu had a list of the most beautiful daughters of his courtiers, to be enquired for. His wives were of all nations and religions. Some were Christians taken from Goa, and other places, where the missionaries had made proselytes. Col Doveton was lately under the necessity of enquiring the names of some of the ladies who had been taken from their husbands, who wished to marry again if they were dead, which the missionaries insisted upon being first proved, before they suffered a second marriage. It was a long time before the family would submit to this request.

  The zenana is generally a square-building with high walls, consisting of a court with eight small rooms, and a verandah, divided into two stories, which are sufficient for four ladies, and their attendants. Futteh Haidar sent me a great many dishes of pillow which are usually prepared in the zenana. Col Doveton explained to me the difference between the wives of the Moro-men. They are all really married to the persons with whom they live, but when the ladies are of high rank, they expect, and their relations insist, upon having expensive celebrations of the marriage, which is not always done. There is no particular right of succession, but the Father names his heir, which is generally one of the sons of the elder, or of the wife whose marriage, has been publicly celebrated.

  From Vellore, the travellers proceeded to Pollicondah. The intervening country was extremely flat but with a large tank at Chitterburry. The road ran nearly parallel to the Palaur River. On the left of the road they could see a high range of mountains, amongst which sat Coulasghurr, a large hill fort, garrisoned by the Nawab’s troops. Brinjeveram, a populous town, remarkable for its pagodas, was situated on the banks of the Palaur. Pollicondah was situated near a high hill, with a small pagoda on its summit. The road from Kistnagherry to Ryacottah was through a pass of the ghauts, but the ascent was gradual, and not difficult. Captain Sydenham had informed the party that ‘the road is very romantic, in many places overhung by eminences, covered with thick jungle. The approach to the Fort of Ryacottah is as picturesque as the imagination can well conceive, and the eastern face of that lofty rock, crowned by a strong and extensive line of fortifications, towers above the intervening range of hills.’

  * Dewan of Mysore, a Brahmin who had also been employed by Tipu Sultan

  Crossing the ghauts: March 17th–30th

  ‘Part of the journey was performed upon elephants which we like much it being cooler than palanquins.’

  March 17th, Charly’s journal

  We left Vellore, and breakfasted under a Pandal on our way to Pollicondah …

  March 18th We left Pollicondah and went to Sautghur. We breakfasted in the garden belonging to the Nawab with two Armenian gentlemen who had the charge of it, and Captain Davis, who commanded 200 pioneers, who are engaged in improving the roads. The garden is two miles in length; the view was beautiful. Sautghur is at the foot of the ghauts; the hills are covered with stones of an immense size. Upon several of the hills there were batteries erected by Haidar Ali,* and there was a wall extending from the village up to the hills. Captain Davis and the two Armenians dined with us, and after dinner we went in palanquins to see another garden of the Nawab’s where there are vines, apple and peach trees and the finest guavas I ever saw. We went into a wood; our encampment in a tope of tamarind trees was cool and pleasant.

  March 19th, Henrietta’s journal

  We left Sautghur, and went up the Padinaig Durgan Pass; it is so steep that we were obliged to walk part of the way. Captain Davis came with us and we encamped in the banyan tope. When we arrived at the top of the hill we found no tents, the sergeant said he was afraid of tygers, and had remained below. The thermometer was 87 degrees in the round tent, and 91 degrees in the sleeping tents.

  March 20th, Charly’s journal

  We remained at the top of the ghauts to rest; the thermometer was 66 degrees in the morning, and 88 degrees in the middle of the day, and 91 degrees in Mamma’s tent. One of the elephants had a shivering fit, for which they meant to give him a hot curry. The views from the hills are very interesting and pretty.

  The party found the old fort built by Tipu ‘garrisoned by five Sepoys and a havildar’. Walking was difficult ‘as it was so slippery in many places, so we did not accomplish our object’.

  March 22nd, Charly’s journal

  Captain Davis came up the Pass, and passed the day with us; he told us that at Tripatore there were some dwarfs living, who never descend from their mountain but to pay the tribute, and no one goes up to them, as the change of climate always disagreed with both parties. An old Begum was living on the top of a steep hill, from which she had never descended for thirteen years; the only ascent being by a basket, from the steepness of the rock.

  March 22nd, above the ghauts, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  My dear Lord Clive – This is Edward’s birthday. I wish him and you most heartily many returns of it together. He is now fifteen. Think of that and how happy it will be for us all to be assembled again and to see those dear boys before they are grown up and how much we lose of them now. Pray finish what you have to do at Madras soon that you may not wish to stay longer than is absolutely necessary.

  I do not know when I have been so much pleased as by your letter, which arrived yesterday. All was quite right when your letter came, it being the longest I ever received from you in my life. I am very glad you are satisfied with what we have done. We all wish much for you. The whole scene is new and so much what you would like and the difficulties really nothing. The fatigue would be trifling if it were less hot. These three days have brightened both us and our animals and we are unwilling to quit it though it is very desolate and wild. We went yesterday evening to the pass of Padinaig Durgan. It is not very easy of access and we were obliged to scramble in our best manner. The view was very extensive of a country with scattered trees and rocks, scarcely the smallest appearance of cultivation and nothing very striking but all hills and little valleys. Their fort does not command the Pass. I do not envy the six sepoys that are there. Upon the whole I am disappointed as to the appearance of the ghauts. The Apennines are a thousand time more like a pass and much more inaccessible. I should imagine this is difficult without beauty.

  There are scarce any inhabitants near the road. They are not yet accustomed to the English and are afraid of having their things seized by the regiments marching through the country. Therefore they live at a distance.

  We have not vegetable except yams, which is the only thing we want. Captain Davis from the bottom of the Pass has supplied us today. We were spoilt on the road by such things. Even your garden cannot produce such large cabbages.

  Charly has recovered her spirits and strength. Indeed the latter has not failed much and she is quite well with no more bleeding at the nose since we came here. She has water thrown over her every day, which appears to be of great service. We are collecting every thing that you have not in your garden. There are no small trees to be found, but the cuttings I have, no doubt will grow, and I shall send them.

  On March 23rd Charly found the landscape through which they passed on the way to Vinkatagherry ‘very dreary’. On March 24th after they had descended the Pass, Henrietta, Anna, Harry and Charly climbed up to the hill-fort, a steep ascent of a mile
and looked down on the Sultan’s battery that had been built by Haidar when he took the place from the English which Charly characterised as having been ‘effected in the usual military manner, by attacking it from a higher hill’.

  March 24th, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  We are just returned from Vinkatagherry and a more desolate place is not to be seen, I believe. The first five miles is the same sort of jungle that we saw inhabits the last pass, without trees and only small spots cultivated with rice. The fort is a ruin completely and the view tolerable desolate except a small tank with some teal on it. I saw nothing Christian-like. How Thomas Sydenham could praise it I cannot grasp. I am sure there is nothing to tempt one to remain there.

  I am much afraid all Col Reed’s avenues were cut down by the Nizam’s troops for firewood. If it is so, it is most savage. They say they even took the doors and gates from the cottages and gardens and sold them in their bazaars. So says Captain Davis who came here yesterday.

  Part of the journey was performed upon elephants, which we like much it being cooler than palanquins. This evening we shall pick up seeds for you. Charlotte’s nose behaves very well. Signora Anna complains very little. She is in good spirits and I am better for the cool nights and mornings. As this is a shabby letter, and not worth sending, I shall keep it to be finished at Amboor.