Birds of Passage

by Henrietta Clive

  Coromandel Coast to Madras: October 2nd–14th

  ‘In the river we passed there are many alligators that continually swallow or draw down small horses, bullocks and sometimes men in crossing it.’

  October 2nd, Sheally, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  The mosquitoes were so great the night before that we agreed the sooner we all left Tranquebar, the better. General Anker was most extremely civil and attentive. He came with us across the river where he received us and means to come here today and to dine here and has offered me a house at Porto Novo …

  I saw Dr John’s beetles and butterflies yesterday, Dr Rhine’s birds and Dr Rotthem, who I like much. Dr John is very loud and worrying we all thought.

  I am anxious to hear from you and if you are likely to come and meet us I shall be very happy to see you and Dr Thomas. Dr Hausman is perfectly attentive and certainly understands the climate extremely well, but I do not think he has been much used to females, at least not in the way of Thomas and I am particularly anxious about Charlotte if this time does or does not come on again, as it ought to do. I do not mean anything more than that. I should like to talk her over with Thomas if he should come with you or come before you though that may be difficult to do (as H: is rather a touchy person, though not so to me, and they did not like one another very much of the journey). Without offending Dr H: I tell you things as they come into my mind. Charlotte has not recovered her spirits since her physic and I am particularly anxious to strengthen her again and proposed halting here tomorrow, but as it is rather a damp place, Dr H advises going on to one more dry which will be either at Chillumbarum or Porto Novo. Harriet is perfectly well and in excellent spirits. I have a cold and entirely lost my voice yesterday. We are now within one hundred fifty miles of Madras and I trust you will send away the ships and meet us soon. I shall be too happy to see you once again.

  Adieu, my dear Lord.

  Ever yours very affectionately

  H. A. C.

  On October 2nd the travellers went through fine country to Shealty, once a very populous village, but no longer. They crossed five rivers: two in boats; the rest in palanquins. The pandal was at a distance from the tents, which at first was thought an inconvenience, but it did not prove so. In it they were much cooler. The thermometer was not above 83. General Anker and his staff came to dine and after walking round the village returned home.

  October 3rd, Henrietta’s journal

  This morning Mr Torin, Lieutenant Hawkins and Hunter, who came with us from Trichinopoly, left us and returned to Tanjore. Part of the road this morning was bad though very pretty and there were many hillocks rather deep to pass before we came to the river, which we crossed in boats, not very pleasantly. The flat-bottomed boats of the country are much more pleasant. I could soon have been sick from the motion on crossing the second. I again entered the Nawab’s territories where his havildar and his troops met me with great civility. The roads were extremely well mended, particularly the banks of the river on each side which was raised to the height of the top of the boat and of course very easy for removing the palanquins. The pandal was placed in the front of a large choultry facing the river at Chillambrum and I found it very comfortable all day and remained in it in preference to the tents. About the middle of the day there was a storm, which cooled the air completely.

  After dinner I went to see the famous pagoda, which is by far the most lavish and handsome of any I have seen. The choultry round it contains one thousand pillars of granite of one block and coarse sculptured. At the end of it there are some steps leading to the roof where I went to see the whole below. There are four pagodas within the walls: two large and two smaller … There is a very large and handsome tank with steps to the water and many small choultries. This is within the second wall. There are still two more, which we were not permitted to enter. In the pagoda at one side is a fakeer, who they say has lived there ten years without eating, drinking, sleeping or speaking. He is a sort of prophet and foretells everything that is to happen in the village. I could not go and see him as he is entirely without clothes, but I requested Captain Brown and Hansan to go which they did. I am not at all disposed to believe the story. He had the appearance of perfect health and strength and so far from being starved was fat. They conversed with him, but his answers were in acting. He threw a handful of sand upon the stones and wrote with great facility. I regretted I could not see him. This pagoda is … dedicated to a goddess who they say was in one of his transformations and came down to the spot where she is worshipped.

  October 3rd, Chillumbarum, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  I think you will be glad to have a few words to hear how we go on. Charlotte is better today and was in better spirits yesterday evening. This morning she complained of a little pain in her back, but it is gone again and a little in her head. Dr H: thinks there is more bile but I am rather afraid of much medicine just now. I have this minute had a letter from Dr Thomas by which I hope you will set out when the ships are gone on the 6th and 7th. We shall be at Cuddalore. We have several things to see there (and if Charlotte has any occasion for a farther halt it is the best place as Mr Rinehart’s house is, they say, cool and pleasant) which brings us to Pondicherry. The 8th, 9th, 10th I do not know the name of the stages. 11th at Madras.

  The Nawab’s people have made us an excellent road. We crossed the Coleroon in an awkward boat this morning and are in a very good choultry and pandal near the tents. I have one of my vile coughs. All the rest well. I think when I see you again it will be one of my most happy days. Charlotte is much pleased that you are making a place for her antelope. She has a great favourite here, besides. And I have some beautiful doves for which I beg you will prepare a habitation. C will write to you today.

  I believe ever, my dear Lord,

  yours very affectionately,

  H. A. C.

  October 4th. Porto Novo was formerly a Portuguese settlement and many of the houses had a European appearance. The travellers preferred their tents. As a great compliment the inhabitants spread yards of cloth for some distance. Unfortunately for Charly, one of her palanquin boys slipped and fell down; no one was hurt. An odd circumstance happened while they were walking out in the evening. They observed a vessel coasting along the shore that afterwards lay to. Captain Brown thought it prudent to take some precaution, so ordered the bodyguard to sleep on their arms, as well as the sepoys. The vessel disappeared before morning. Afterwards they heard that a privateer had been seen on the coast, and was believed to be a Frenchman. Much later on when Captain Brown was returning from India, he was taken prisoner into Mauritius, and there heard that a privateer (at the time of their being at Porto Novo) had been almost tempted to make a descent for plunder, but was induced to give up the plan on seeing an encampment in the neighbourhood.

  October 4th, Henrietta’s journal

  Left Chillumbarum came to Porto Novo. The road was extremely beautiful and much better than yesterday. We came to a very small point of the company’s country and again to the Nawab’s. General Anker had offered me a house belonging to the Danish factory, which was prepared, but the tents being pitched near the sea in an open green spot I preferred them to the town. It is very pleasant. I hear the waves with pleasure and there is a freshness in the air which I have not felt for sometime in the evening. I went to the seaside and sat there till a storm came on. It was remarkably pleasant.

  October 5th Left the encampment very early and came by the sands to Mr Rinehart’s houses at Cuddalore. The morning was delightful. Though we set out very early, the drive made ample amends for being disturbed. The sea was particularly calm and agreeable. We crossed two rivers. At the bank of the last was a large boat ready to receive me and with Colonel Dupard, the Commanding Officer. We passed the old town and fort, the house being in the new town … In the river we passed there are many alligators that continually swallow or draw down small horses, bullocks and sometimes men in crossing it. We crossed another in the palanquins between the for
t and the new town. Mr H’s house is very pleasantly situated and was built ninety years ago by Governor Pitt and was lived in by the late Lord Clive. There is a large garden and a broad gravel walk round a lawn shaded completely by trees. We had no sea breeze today. In the evening I went towards the river for a little walk.

  Cuddalore formerly had been a large town, but the sea had swept entirely over it, reconfiguring it so that only when the tide was low could the brass tops of the pagodas be distinguished. The travellers visited one pagoda which had escaped destruction, but was unused and in a ruinous condition. They could gain no information as to the history of this submerged town that had vanished beneath the water.

  October 5th, Cuddalore, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  We came here this morning from Porto Novo and had a very pleasant journey by the sea side though we set out terribly early. We were rewarded by air and freshness of the beach. Charly is much better today, in good spirits though looking a little delicate. Dr H still thinks she has some bile but is afraid of medicine. The air last night was so good and it is so here that I have great hopes of its doing great good …

  As I find the post is to go early tomorrow I must write though I am very sleepy. I intend to bring you a muster of table linen and any other thing I can meet with.

  I hear of alligators of a great size in the river. Luckily all our horses have escaped them. I have seen little of this place, but it seems very pleasant and Mr R says it is never hot as at Madras. He thinks there is some timber to be had for you here. I shall know tomorrow. Adieu. The girls are asleep or they would send their loves to you.

  Ever, my dear Lord,

  yours very affectionately

  H. A. C.

  October 7th, Henrietta’s journal

  I went this morning to see the ruins of Fort St David. It is in complete desolation. The fort is small but of the immense heaps of masonry. It appears to have been very strong. We breakfasted in a very pleasant bungalow on one part of it looking over the river and the sea. Mr R told me that after I was gone away he saw a very large alligator. I am sorry I’d not seen it. In the evening I went to Mrs Fraser’s. The river which was not more than knee deep at one o’clock was become very high and the palanquins were obliged to be put on the shoulders of the bearers. The place is indeed very pretty and upon a little hill looking over paddy fields on one side and a fine lake on the other with a distant view of the sea. The centre of the house is a bomb proof where Lord Clive and the family used to go for a day or two from Fort St David’s to give balls sometimes or for change of air. There is now a veranda built round it and some other additions by Mrs Fraser. It was a complete jungle when she first chose it or I believe it was her son that lived on it for her by taking up the trees. There is a pretty lawn with gravel walks down to the lake and in different directions, which with the cattle and sheep gave it the appearance of an English place. The river was still rising at our return and in the dark it was not very pleasant passing it. There was much rain in the night.

  October, no date, first part 10 o’clock, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  I was very sorry to find by a letter of Thomas’s to Captain Brown that you have a boil. I hope it is not so troublesome but you will be able to meet us somewhere on the road yet. I am not quite sure if we go from hence tomorrow or not. There is not appearance of any reason in Charlotte except bile which Dr H is quite convinced she has still. She does not eat as she should and has a pain in her head and a little sickness after eating. He does not of course choose my medicine, yet wishes a very slight emetic. I am also afraid of it yet it seems less violent than medicine and she has appearance of bile on her tongue and a little yellowness in the eyes. We shall see this evening if it is to be taken. She cannot travel tomorrow morning and the road will not now admit of going in the evening, as there are four rivers and one bad road. Before I send this letter I shall know more. Her spirits are better but still she is not herself yet and has caught a little cold and cough, but it is now gone. I have it still.

  This is a delightful place. We breakfasted this morning at Fort St David’s which is a terrible heap of ruins. Everything is green and we have had a good deal of rain every night.

  Half past 6 o’clock, Wednesday morning, Henrietta to Lord Clive, continued

  Dr Hausman was so decided about the emetic that it has been given. She bore it very well and is now asleep. Her stomach had a great deal of phlegm. I trust she will not be relieved for a long time. If this letter does not go too early I will add a word in the morning. We shall not go tomorrow from hence.

  Charlotte has slept well, has not headache and is as she says much better. Her cold is much the same. In short I am pleased with her appearance today.

  Adieu. Many loves to you.

  Ever, my dear Lord,

  yours very affectionately

  H. A. C.

  On October 9th the travellers found Pondicherry, formerly the capital of the French possessions, to be a rather shabby but still a handsome-looking place. The fortifications had been destroyed; the inhabitants were mostly impoverished French. Some specimens of petrified tamarind trees in large heavy, hard pieces of a dark colour mixed with red were given to Henrietta; she was told only that in a large space near the town many such trees had been found.

  October 9th, Henrietta’s journal

  I left Cuddalore and came to Pondicherry. I passed two rivers in boats. The second was with an awning and very pleasant and brought me to where Col Campbell met me. I was disappointed in the appearance of the place. There is not a vestige of the fort remaining. The street is hard and planted on each side with trees. Near the Governor’s house are some large pillars of granite carved which were to have been sent as ballast in ships to build a choultry at Versailles and there are some new houses built. One in particular by a man upon speculation in case the French ever return. The government house is very handsome. Much more magnificent than any I have seen though it is not above half the size it was intended to have been. In the evening I went round the principal streets. They are handsome and contain many large houses all still. There is an appearance of desolation. It had rained much today and did so again in the evening.

  October 9th, Pondicherry, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  We came here this morning pretty well. Charlotte has a bad cold and cough but considering that is much better. Her emetic has certainly relieved her. The pain in her head is gone and her spirits are much better when her cough does not torment her. In short I am much satisfied with her today. This is an excellent house and Colonel Campbell has made it very comfortable to us. We go on tomorrow to a choultry but I do not know its name and on the 13th shall breakfast at Madras if nothing impedes us. We have nothing to see here. Mr Rinehart told me there was not any large timber at Cuddalore. Pray frank the enclosed letters to Mrs Rothman for us. Love to you from the girls.

  Ever, my dear Lord,

  yours very affectionately

  H. A. C.

  October 10th, Henrietta’s journal

  I left Pondicherry and came through a sandy and pleasant road to the encampment near the Conalty Choultry. I saw some pretty plants on the road, particularly the red seeded creeper. In the evening we picked up many pretty shells and sat till it was late near the seaside. We had occasional showers but it was not very hot.

  October 10th, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  We are now near to Conalty Choultry fifteen miles from Pondicherry. Charlotte has a bad cold but otherwise is well in spite of a cough and its being much in her head and eyes. The appearance of the weather is so much like an approaching monsoon that I shall be glad to get on as soon as I can. We had much rain in the middle of the day yesterday and a little this morning. The road is good though sandy and it is not very hot. The temperature at 83 degrees at 3 o’clock. I hear the ships are to sail today which I hope is true and that I shall now hear something from you. It is just a month since you wrote last. The girls desire their love to you. Harriet is quite well. Adieu my dear Lord. I trust I shall
not have many more letters to write to you.

  Ever your very affectionate

  H. A. C.

  October 11th, Henrietta’s journal

  Came partly by the road and partly by the beach to Allamparva. We passed a very fine lake which is in the shortest road but the inconvenience of travelling two miles in water in and out of the palanquin made me determine to go round a mile or two to avoid it. The old fort is a mile from the place where we are encamped across the river. It is of a singular appearance, all the bastions being pointed in the middle. [Here Henrietta’s journal ends abruptly.]

  Undated, no place indicated, Henrietta’s last letter of the journey

  My dear Lord Clive – You must not, my Dear Lord, be offended at my writing to you. I feel so much on the subject that it is too painful to me to begin in conversation though I am anxious to do so when you have read my letter. I am so seriously alarmed at the alteration in those dear girls that I think it a duty to you, to them and to myself to tell you what is my opinion, though I am afraid it has not always great weight in your mind. Dr Hausman’s opinion was (as I told you) that if Charlotte remained six months longer in this country, she would be especially injured by it. When I talked them over at Sadap with Dr Thomas his opinion expressed the same apprehension and he told me several probable symptoms that with great concern I see gradually coming on more and more everyday. Her weakness at her menses is perfectly unlike girls at her age in England. From myself at the same age and from everybody I have seen and it has so apparently increased since we were at Trichinopoly that within these few days I am alarmed more than I can express and I entreat you if what I believe is the case that you have not perfect faith in Thomas’s opinion which I have for the experience of their constitutions during these years and his competent knowledge of female constitution in general that to quiet my anxiety if it is unfounded and for my sake you will oblige me by consulting some medical person in whom you can trust and be guided by him.