THE EVERYTHING® THAI COOKBOOK

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THE EVERYTHING® THAI COOKBOOK Page 2

by Jennifer Malott Kotylo


  Another cooking process that involves water is steaming. With this method, the ingredients are not in the water, but rather above it on a rack. The pot is always covered. Steaming is a very gentle cooking method and it is usually the most nutritious. Steamed ingredients don't lose much of their nutrients, texture, or individual flavor. Vegetables and sticky rice are perfect candidates for steaming.

  Roasting

  Roasting is another core cooking method used around the world. a very simple method performed in an oven, usually with high heat. can also use indirect heat from a grill and obtain similar results.) Essentially anything can be roasted: meats, fishes, vegetables, or fruits.

  Roasting meat involves seasoning it in some fashion, sometimes searing it before you place it in the oven and sometimes basting it it cooks — depending on the recipe — and always letting it rest. Resting allows the meat to reabsorb some of its juices, making your roast juicy and easier to carve. To rest your roast, you simply remove it the oven, cover it with foil, and let it sit.

  A very handy gadget to have when roasting is an ovenproof meat thermometer. This will let you know when your roast is done to your liking, without cutting into it. For an accurate reading, you must insert tip of the thermometer into the deepest part of the meat without touching bone, fat, or the bottom of the pan. Roasting charts usually come the thermometers.

  What You'll Need

  Knife Types and Their Uses

  PARING KNIFE — a short-bladed knife (usually 2 to 4 inches) used trim fruits and vegetables

  CHEF'S KNIFE — a medium-bladed knife used for chopping, slicing, mincing

  SLICING KNIFE — a long-bladed knife, either smooth-edged or serrated used for slicing meats or breads

  Other useful knives include: boning, utility, cleaver, and fillet.

  Specialty Utensils

  Thai cooking really doesn't require a kitchen-full of fancy gadgets: Most often you will use standard mixing bowls and measuring cups, and pans, wooden and slotted spoons, and knives. But there are a items that will make your Thai cooking easier and more enjoyable. you are in the mood to splurge, here's the wish list:

  WOK — a high-sided, sloping, small-bottomed pan — the quintessential Asian utensil

  RICE COOKER — an electric gizmo that takes the guessing out of

  FOOD PROCESSOR — the workhorse of the kitchen when it comes mixing, chopping, puréeing, and shredding

  BLENDER — great for making sauces and purées

  CHINOIS — a sieve perfect for straining stocks, sauces, and purées

  HAND BLENDER — great for making sauces and purées right in the pot

  COLANDER — perfect for straining noodles

  MORTAR and PESTLE — a stone bowl and club used to crush spices and herbs

  MANDOLINE — an extremely sharp utensil used for precise paper-cutting

  Using a Blender with Hot Ingredients

  Hot (as in temperature, not spiciness) ingredients in a blender can expand causing its lid to blow off. Instead of the lid, use a kitchen towel as a cover.

  Basic Food Substitutions

  There are three very common ingredients in Thai cooking that can be rather difficult to find in the United States. Luckily they have very inexpensive and common substitutions. In this book I have always used brown sugar in place of palm sugar, ginger in place of galangal, and vegetable oil in place of peanut oil. Substitutions for some common Thai ingredients are found in the following chart.

  THAI INGREDIENTSUBSTITUTION

  Fish sauce Soy sauce

  Cilantro Parsley

  Kaffir lime leaves Lime peel

  Lemongrass Lemon peel

  Rice vinegar Dry sherry or white vinegar

  Long beans Green beans

  Thai eggplant Green peas

  Shallots Small onions

  Homemade curry paste Store-bought curry paste

  1

  Thai Curry Pastes, Marinades, and Other Concoctions

  Green Curry Paste — 1

  Green Curry Paste — 2

  Red Curry Paste — 1

  Red Curry Paste — 2

  Southern (or Massaman) Curry Paste

  Northern (or Jungle) Curry Paste

  Chili Tamarind Paste

  Yellow Bean Sauce

  Minty Tamarind Paste

  Black Bean Paste

  Thai Marinade — 1

  Thai Marinade — 2

  Thai Marinade — 3

  Asian Marinade — 1

  Asian Marinade — 2

  Tamarind Marinade

  Coconut Marinade

  Malaysian Marinade

  Thai Vinegar Marinade

  Lemongrass Marinade

  Shredded Fresh Coconut

  Lemon Chili Vinegar

  Chili Vinegar

  Tamarind Concentrate

  Thai Grilling Rub

  Green Curry Paste — 1

  10 green serrano chilies

  3 shallots, coarsely chopped

  5 cloves garlic

  1 (1½-inch) piece gingerroot, peeled and chopped

  1 stalk lemongrass, tough outer leaves removed, inner tender portion chopped

  2 teaspoons grated lime zest

  ½ teaspoon shrimp paste

  2 teaspoons ground coriander

  2 teaspoons ground nutmeg

  1 teaspoon ground cumin

  1 teaspoon black pepper

  ½ teaspoon ground cloves

  1 teaspoon salt

  ½ cup chopped cilantro

  ¼ cup vegetable oil

  Place the first 6 ingredients in a food processor and process mixed. Add the remaining ingredients, except the vegetable process until smooth. Slowly add the oil until a thick paste May be refrigerated up to 4 weeks.

  Curry Paste

  Curry pastes are the foundation of most Thai preparations and are essentially concentrated flavoring agents meant to add complexity and depth. They are usually relatively moist concoctions of chili peppers, lime, and various herbs. Typically, curry pastes are mixed with either broth or coconut milk to create a sauce or cooking liquid.

  Thai curries are famous throughout the world. But the Western term curry powder isn't indicative of a spice at all. Instead, it's a varying mixture of ingredients such as cumin, turmeric, garlic, paprika, ginger, clove, coriander, etc. If you find a store-bought variety that you like, stick with it. Each brand can taste completely different.

  Yields 1 cup

  Curry pastes are the basis for many Thai recipes. Adding a tablespoon or so to a cup of coconut milk forms a poaching liquid for anything you want to cook — vegetables, meats, fish, or noodles.

  Green Curry Paste — 2

  3 tablespoons coriander seeds, toasted

  2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted

  2–4 green jalapeño chilies, seeded and chopped

  2 green bell peppers, seeded and chopped

  1 medium onion, chopped

  3 cloves garlic, chopped

  1 teaspoon shrimp paste

  4 tablespoons chopped cilantro

  2 teaspoons chopped lemongrass

  1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and chopped

  4 tablespoons Tamarind Concentrate (see recipe on page 18)

  3 teaspoons water

  2 tablespoons vegetable oil

  1 teaspoon salt

  Place all the ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. Transfer to a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes.

  Stir in 1 cup of water and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes.

  Storing Pastes

  Making homemade curry pastes can be a bit time-consuming. Luckily, they store very well. They can be refrigerated in an airtight container for a month or frozen for up to a year. To freeze, place the paste in an ice cube tray. After they are frozen, remove the cubes from the tray and store them in freezer bags.

  Yields approx. 1 cup
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br />   Green pastes tend to be a bit more pungent than their red cousins simply because chilies sweeten somewhat as they ripen and become red.

  Red Curry Paste — 1

  3 tablespoons coriander seeds, toasted

  2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted

  6–8 red serrano chilies, seeded and chopped

  1 medium onion, chopped

  2 garlic cloves, chopped

  1 stalk lemongrass, outer leaves removed and discarded, inner core finely chopped

  1 (½-inch) piece ginger, finely chopped

  3 kaffir lime leaves or the peel of 1 lime, chopped

  2 teaspoons paprika

  4 tablespoons water

  2 tablespoons Tamarind Concentrate (see recipe on page 18)

  3 tablespoons vegetable oil

  1 teaspoon salt

  Place all the ingredients in a food processor and blend until very smooth.

  Transfer to a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes.

  Stir in 1 cup of water and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer 30 minutes.

  Yields approx. ½ cup

  You can substitute 1 fresh jalapeño pepper for every 2 red serrano chilies.

  Red Curry Paste — 2

  3 large dried red California chilies, seeded and chopped

  5 dried Thai bird or similar chilies, seeded and chopped

  2 stalks lemongrass, tough outer leaves removed and discarded, inner core finely minced

  1 (2-inch) piece ginger, peeled and finely minced

  2 cloves garlic, minced

  1 small onion, chopped

  2 tablespoons ground turmeric

  Place the chilies in a bowl and cover them with hot water. Let stand for at least 30 minutes. Drain the chilies, reserving 1 cup of the soaking liquid.

  Place all the ingredients and 2–3 tablespoons of the soaking liquid in a food processor. Process to form a thick, smooth paste. Add additional liquid if necessary.

  Red Curry Paste Applications

  While green curry paste is usually used for specific purposes, red curry paste is often treated as a “general purpose” paste that can be added to almost any Thai recipe. Whenever you see a recipe call for “common” or “plain” curry paste, it is almost always referring to the red. And if not, you'll be safe using it!

  Yields approx. 1 cup

  Curry pastes that feature dried chilies tend to have a smoky, complex nuance, whereas those made mostly from fresh chilies have a cleaner, crisper taste.

  Southern (or Massaman) Curry Paste

  6–8 large dried red chilies (often called California chilies), soaked in hot water for 5 minutes and drained

  2 tablespoons coriander seeds, toasted

  2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted

  ½ teaspoon cardamom seeds, toasted

  2 whole cloves

  ¼ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

  ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

  1 teaspoon shrimp paste (optional)

  1 stalk lemongrass, tough outer leaves removed and discarded, inner core finely chopped

  1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and minced

  1 teaspoon salt

  1 teaspoon lime peel

  2 teaspoons brown sugar

  2 tablespoons vegetable oil

  3 tablespoons Tamarind Concentrate (see recipe on page 18)

  3 tablespoons water

  Place all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth.

  Transfer to a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes.

  Stir in 1 cup of water and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer 30 minutes.

  The Chili Infusion

  Chilies are not indigenous to Asia. They arrived in Thailand from South America with the Portuguese traders and missionaries. Today, the Thai people eat more chilies on the average per person than any other country in the world.

  Yields approx. 1 cup

  Massaman is the Thai word for “Muslim.” The sweet spices featured in this paste were brought to the Thai peninsula from the West by the Muslims.

  Northern (or Jungle) Curry Paste

  2 tablespoons vegetable oil

  12 serrano chilies, seeded and chopped

  6–8 Thai bird chilies, seeded and chopped

  1 tablespoon shrimp paste

  1 stalk lemongrass, tough outer leaves removed and discarded, inner core minced

  1 (3-inch) piece ginger, peeled and chopped

  4 shallots, chopped

  1 cup chopped basil

  ½ cup chopped mint

  ¼ cup chopped chives

  ¼ cup chopped arugula

  In a medium-sized sauté pan, heat the oil on medium. Add shrimp paste, lemongrass, ginger, and shallots, and sauté until shallots begin to turn translucent and the mixture is very fragrant.

  Transfer the mixture to a food processor and process until adding 1 or 2 tablespoons of water to help with the grinding.

  Add the remaining ingredients and more water if necessary to process until coarsely blended.

  Arugula

  Arugula is a specialty green with a peppery, somewhat bitter taste. Although we Westerners associate it with Italian cuisine, it was originally cultivated in Western Asia. If you can't find it (check in the herb section), you can substitute spinach in this recipe, although with a slightly less flavorful result.

  Yields approx. 2 cups

  This curry has the look of a pesto. In fact, you can use it in a similar manner, tossing a tablespoon or so to taste with hot pasta.

  Chili Tamarind Paste

  ½ cup dried shrimp

  1¾ cups vegetable oil, divided

  cup garlic

  1 cup sliced shallots

  12 small Thai chilies or

  6 serrano chilies

  3 tablespoons Tamarind Concentrate (see recipe on page 18)

  3 tablespoons brown sugar

  1 tablespoon fish sauce

  Place the dried shrimp in a small bowl. Cover the shrimp stir briefly, and drain; set aside.

  Pour 1½ cups of the vegetable oil in a medium-sized saucepan. the oil to approximately 360 degrees over medium-high heat.

  Add the garlic and fry until golden brown. Using a slotted transfer the garlic to a bowl lined with paper towels.

  Add the shallots to the saucepan and fry for 2 to 3 minutes; the shallots to the bowl with the garlic.

  Fry the reserved shrimp in the saucepan for 2 minutes; the bowl.

  Fry the chilies until they become brittle, about 30 seconds; them to the bowl. (Allow oil to cool to room temperature discarding.)

  Combine the fried ingredients, the remaining oil, and the a food processor; process to form a smooth paste.

  Place the paste in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the sugar and fish sauce, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes.

  Allow the paste to return to room temperature before placing in an airtight container.

  Yields approx. 3 cups

  This paste is a study of contrasts. The searingly hot Thai chilies are balanced by the sweetness of the tamarind and brown sugar and the saltiness of the dried shrimp and fish sauce.

  Yellow Bean Sauce

  2 tablespoons vegetable oil

  1 medium to large onion, minced

  2 serrano chilies, seeded and chopped

  1 (½-inch) piece ginger, peeled and chopped

  1 teaspoon ground coriander

  4 tablespoons fermented yellow beans (fermented soy beans)

  2 tablespoons lime juice

  2 tablespoons water

  In a medium-sized sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and chilies, and sauté until the onion becomes translucent. Stir in the ginger and coriander, and continue to cook for 30 seconds.

  Add the beans, lime juice, and water, and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes.
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br />   Transfer the mixture to a blender and process until smooth.

  Yields approx. 1 cup

  This bean sauce is often used in Thai recipes to add depth, not only of flavor but also of texture.

  Minty Tamarind Paste

  1 bunch mint leaves

  1 bunch cilantro leaves

  ¼ cup peanuts

  ½ cup Tamarind Concentrate (see recipe on page 18)

  4–5 Thai bird peppers or 2 serrano chilies, seeded and chopped

  Place all the ingredients in a food processor and blend to form a paste.

  Yields approx. 2 cups

  This is a perfect way to use a lot of those extra herbs growing in your garden — to make a curry paste bursting with the tastes of summer.

  Black Bean Paste

  2 tablespoons vegetable oil

  1 medium to large onion, minced

  2 jalapeños, seeded and chopped

  2 cloves garlic, chopped

  3 green onions, trimmed and sliced

  4 tablespoons canned black beans or black soy beans

  1 teaspoon brown sugar

  1 tablespoon fish sauce

  2 teaspoons lime juice

  In a medium-sized sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-the onions, jalapeños, garlic, and green onions, and sauté onion becomes translucent.

  Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sautéed vegetables to processor or blender (set aside the oil in the sauté pan). remaining ingredients and process briefly to create a not-paste.

 

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