Old Sins

by Penny Vincenzi

  The new highways meant the real birth of the commuter to New York, and the birth of the suburb; paving a way for ambition, opportunity, and the American dream; they also paved an increasing drift, for the less fortunate, to the ever-growing ghettos. But in the commercial heart of the city there was money, real money, more and more of it, up for grabs. And Julian Morell was in grabbing mood.

  He stayed, with Philip Mainwaring, at the Pierre Hotel, shrine to luxury and a slightly old-fashioned glamour, just on Central Park – and an inspiration for their cause, filled as it was with spoilt, lavished-upon women and extravagant, indulgent, men.

  They had a huge success with Juliana; Bergdorf’s, Bonwit’s and Sak’s all bought it, and promised Julian special displays and promotions when he launched his new young perfume, Mademoiselle Je, in the spring. He set up a recruitment drive for consultants selling his range in the stores, interviewing them every morning in his suite; he was looking not just for women who could sell the products but who could communicate with the customers, sympathize with their anxieties, reassure them, make intelligent suggestions. It was a difficult task; he was looking for a type of woman who would not normally consider selling cosmetics behind a counter. He had managed to find them in London, but it was more difficult to find this particular breed in New York, mecca of the hard sell. At last, after days of intensive interviewing, Julian found a handful and hired them at just over half again the salary all their rivals were getting and said he would pay them no commission. ‘That way,’ he said to Philip, ‘they aren’t hammering away pushing unsuitable stuff at women who don’t want any more than advice. It works in London; it’ll work here.’ Then he turned his attention to looking for his building.

  They worked their way steadily through central New York for days, marvelling at the soaring erratic beauty of the place; up and down the huge avenues. Sixth and Fifth, Lexington and Park; down the side streets; examining new buildings, conversions, buildings in use as offices, even already as shops. It was exhausting, depressing and began to feel hopeless.

  ‘Maybe,’ said Philip as they walked slowly back to the Pierre one evening, ‘we should think of building.’

  ‘No,’ said Julian, ‘no, I know we shouldn’t build. I know we need something with a past.’

  ‘Julian, we must have looked at everything with a past in New York City and a lot without a future,’ said Philip, ‘this place doesn’t exist, you have to rethink.’

  ‘No,’ said Julian, ‘I’m not going to rethink. We’ll find it. There’s no rush. Come on, let’s have a martini, it’ll cheer you up, and then I’ll see if anything’s come in for us during the day.’

  He ordered two martinis and went to the desk to pick up his mail: a huge armful of real-estate agents’ envelopes. He carried them over to Philip in the bar, laughing. ‘Come on, Philip, plenty to do. We needn’t be bored.’

  ‘I long to be bored,’ said Philip gloomily, downing his martini in one.

  ‘Oh, nonsense. Where’s your spirit of adventure? Have another one of those to stiffen your sinews a bit and – Oh, look, here’s something from a residential agent. That’s interesting.’

  He opened the envelope. A photograph fell out of a beautiful house, about a hundred years old, tall and graceful, five storeys high, with beautiful windows, classic proportions. It was just off Park Avenue on 57th, and it was being offered for sale as a possible small hotel. Julian looked at it for a long time in silence.

  ‘That’s it,’ he said, ‘that’s my building. Jesus, that’s it. What do they want for it?’

  ‘Julian, that’s a house,’ said Philip. ‘You can’t convert that into a shop.’

  ‘Of course I can,’ said Julian, smiling at him radiantly, ‘a house is exactly what I want. I don’t know why I didn’t realize before. Come on, Philip, let’s go and look at it now.’

  ‘But it’s dark,’ said Philip plaintively, ‘we won’t be able to see it.’

  ‘Oh, for heaven’s sake, man, don’t be so negative. Haven’t you heard of electric light? It’s all the rage. Come on, we can do it easily before dinner.’

  They got in a cab and travelled the few blocks down to 57th. There they got out and walked slowly along the street until they reached the house. It was nestled between two other, taller buildings, a small elegant jewel. A light hung over the front door like a canopy, showing off its perfect shape, its delicate fanlight. It was a very lovely house. Julian looked at it in silence; he crossed the street and looked at it still longer. Then he crossed again and knocked at the door.

  It was over two years before the store opened. An expensive two years.

  The first thing Julian had to do was find the money to buy the house, and to do the conversion. Most of the larger banks were not over-helpful. Morell’s, and indeed Juliana did not have the substance, hold the authority in New York, that they did in London. Julian tried the merchant banks in London, but they were reluctant to put money into an untried venture in New York.

  He was just about to try to raise a personal loan when he was put in touch with a young man called Scott Emerson, who headed up one of the investment divisions at the Chase Manhattan Bank and who was earning a reputation as having a shrewd eye for a clever investment. Julian went to see him, armed with photographs, cash flows, prospectuses, his own company history and his burning, driving enthusiasm; he came away with a cautious promise – ‘a definite maybe’ Julian told Susan and Letitia on the phone to London – and a life-long friendship. Scott lived with his wife Madeleine and their two children (‘Nearly four,’ he told Julian proudly over lunch that first day. ‘Madeleine’s expecting twins’) on Long Island; he invited Julian to spend the weekend there, and Julian fell promptly in love with American family life. Unlike most Englishmen, he found the way American children were encouraged to talk, to join in a conversation, to consider themselves as important as adults, charming and interesting; he thought of his small daughter brought up by Eliza and her nanny in the nurseries at the top of the house, and resolved to change things.

  ‘You must bring Eliza to stay here next time you come,’ said Madeleine, smiling at him over Saturday breakfast. ‘We would just love to meet her, she sounds so interesting and so young. It’s quite an undertaking, marrying a man with such a huge and demanding business at her age. She’s obviously a coper.’

  ‘Well, she’s very busy,’ said Julian, carefully ignoring the comment on Eliza’s capacities as a wife. ‘Our child is very young. But yes, I’m sure she’d like New York, and of course to meet you. Perhaps for the opening of the store.’

  ‘Well, that’s –’ Madeleine had been going to say ‘two years off but decided against it – ‘a really good idea.’ Something in Julian Morell’s face told her he was not a man to argue with, especially on the subject of his wife.

  ‘How old is your daughter?’

  ‘She’s nine months old,’ said Julian.

  ‘Well, that’s a lovely age,’ said Madeleine. ‘I wish they could stay like that. Our C. J. is just a little older. He’ll be down in a minute, his nurse is taking him out for a walk. Maybe when they’re older he and your Rosamund can be friends. I’d really like that. Oh, look, here he is now. C. J. come and say hallo to Mr Morell.’

  The nurse, smiling, carried C. J. over to Julian; the child looked at him solemnly and then buried his head in her shoulder.

  ‘Oh, dear,’ said Julian, ‘don’t I even get a smile?’

  Madeleine held out her arms, took the child; he turned and smiled suddenly at Julian. He had brown hair, and large brown eyes; they held a slightly tremulous expression. Madeleine kissed him and then handed him back to the nurse. She went out, talking quietly to the baby under her breath.

  ‘He’s sweet,’ said Julian. ‘What’s his real name?’

  ‘Well, he was christened Christopher John, but the nursemaid we had then called him C. J. and it kind of stuck. He’s so terribly different from his sister, it’s funny how you can tell so early. He’s quieter, and he doesn’t try a
nd push the world around like she did at that age. I don’t think he’s ever had a temper tantrum. She’ll be running for president by the time she’s seventeen. But he’s such a nice little boy. I suppose he may toughen up.’

  Julian thought of C. J.’s soft brown eyes, his shy smile, and thought it would be rather a pity if he did.

  Julian spent most of those two years in New York working harder than he had ever worked in his life, even during the very early days of the company, in a total commitment to seeing his vision become reality. It was not unusual for him to work right through the night, and occasionally half of the next one as well; he missed meals, he cancelled social engagements, and he expected precisely the same dedication from everyone working with him.

  Nathan and Hartman, considered to be the finest architects in New York, had initially been hired to work on the store, and were fired within weeks because their plans didn’t meet with Julian’s absolute approval; a second firm met the same fate. Then a young French architect, Paul Baud, arrived at the Pierre one evening and asked to see Julian. He had a small portfolio under his arm, and he looked about nineteen. Julian had sighed when he heard he was downstairs; then he said he would give him five minutes and if he hadn’t convinced him by then he would have to go away again. Baud drew out of his portfolio the plans for a tiny hotel in Paris and a small store in Lyons which was the only work he had ever done, and spent the entire night in the bar at the Pierre with Julian, drawing, talking, listening. Then he went away for a week and came back with the plans complete. Julian hardly altered a thing.

  He went to Paris for his beauty therapists, knowing that only there would he find the crucial combination of knowledge, mystique and deep-seated belief in the importance of beauty treatment that would have the women of New York paying visits three or four times a week to his salons. He installed on the fifth floor an extraordinary range of equipment and treatments, massage machines, passive exercisers, seaweed and mud baths, steam cabinets, infra-red sunbeds, saunas, and a battery of masseurs, visagistes, hair stylists, manicurists, dietitians. There was a small excessively well-heated swimming pool, a gymnasium, a bar that sold pure fruit and vegetable juices, and a few dimly lit cubicles fitted out with nothing but beds and telephones, where the ladies, exhausted from a morning’s toil, could sleep for an hour or so before setting forth to buy the clothes, jewellery, perfume and make-up to adorn their tortured, treated, bodies.

  Buyers were brought in from all over the world: from Milan, Rome, London, Paris, Nice, San Francisco: men and women who did not just know about fashion and clothes but had it in their blood, who could recognize a new line, a dazzling colour, a perfect fabric as surely as they could tell their own names, their own desires.

  Julian hired a young greedy advertising agency called Silk diMaggio to promote the store, ignoring the sober advice of Philip Mainwaring to go to Young and Rubicam or Doyle Dane.

  Nigel Silk was old money, new style, born of a Boston banking family, who had perfected the art of appearing establishment while questioning every one of its tenets; he was tall, blond – ‘By Harvard out of Brooks Brothers,’ Scott Emerson described him – charming and civilized.

  Mick diMaggio, on the other hand, was no money at all, the youngest of the eight children of a third-generation Italian immigrant, who ran a deli just off Broadway. Mick talked like Italian ice cream spiked with bourbon, and wrote the same way; Julian looked at the creative roughs he produced for the poster campaign – a young beautiful woman, lying quite clearly in the aftermath of sexual love, under the headline ‘The absolute experience’ – and threw up his hands in pleasure.

  ‘This,’ he said, ‘will empty Bergdorf s.’

  They were a formidable team.

  One of its most formidable parts was Camilla North.

  Camilla North was born ambitious.

  So eager had she been to get out into the world and start achieving that she had actually arrived nearly four weeks early; she was walking at seven months old, talking at nine; she was at dancing class at two, riding at three and reading and writing at four.

  By the time she was ten she had become a superb horsewoman, an accomplished dancer, and was gaining honours in examinations in both the piano and the violin; by way of recreation she was also learning the classical guitar. She promised to be a brilliant linguist and mathematician, and was the only pupil at her exclusive girls’ school ever to have gained a hundred per cent mark in Latin at the end-of-year examinations three years running.

  The interesting thing about Camilla was that she was not actually especially gifted at most of the things she excelled at; she had talents, minor facilities, but because she had a fierce, burning need to do everything better than anybody else, she was prepared to put sufficient, monumental even, effort into it to fulfil that need. A rare enough quality in an adult, it was an extraordinary thing to find in a child; her piano teacher, coming to the house to give her her lesson, frequently found her white with exhaustion, on the point of tears, labouring over some difficult piece or set of scales; her mother would often tell people in a mixture of pride and concern that ever since she had been a tiny child she had got up half an hour earlier than she need, in order to practise her ballet; she was hardly ever to be seen simply fooling around and enjoying her pony, but spent long hours practising her dressage skills, endlessly crossing and traversing the paddock, changing legs, pacing out figures of eight; she even insisted on learning to ride side-saddle; and if she was ever found to have fallen asleep over a book, it would be her Latin grammar and not a story book.

  She even extended this capacity to what would normally be regarded as fun; when she first was given a bicycle she went out to the back yard with it and said she wouldn’t come in until she could ride it. Five hours later she was still out there, in the dark, both knees cut, both elbows badly bruised, a fast swelling lip where she had struck it on the handlebars – and an expression of complete triumph on her face as she rode round and round the lawn.

  Nobody could quite work out what drove her. She was the much-loved oldest child and only daughter of Mary and William North; amateur psychologist friends of the family said she was trying to hold her own against the competition on offer from her three younger brothers but as none of them were nearly as clever or as successful as she was (although it had to be said none of them worked nearly so hard) this did not seem an entirely satisfactory explanation. Neither did it seem to be genetically determined; William North was old money; a charming, and gentle-mannered man, with a large and successful law practice in Philadelphia that he had inherited from his father. He worked hard and he was a clever man, but his instinct in confrontation of any kind was to withdraw, and he had no serious desire to see his firm taking on the world – or even the rest of Philadelphia. Mary North was even older money, still more charming and gentle-mannered, with no serious desire to do anything at all except keep her household running smoothly and happily; she was slightly frightened by her restless, brilliant little daughter and felt more at ease with her sons. But William was fiercely proud of her; they were very best friends, and would sit for hours after dinner, discussing politics, playing chess (this was the only time Camilla could bear to lose at anything) or simply reading together, while the boys loafed around, watching television and playing rock and roll records.

  Camilla went, inevitably to Vassar, a year young; she graduated, summa cum laude, in languages, and also studied fine arts. She left in 1956, with a reputation as the most brilliant girl not just of her year but several years; and also as the most beautiful.

  Camilla sometimes wondered what she would have done if she had been born plain. Being beautiful was as important to her as being clever; she simply could not bear to be anything but the loveliest, and the best-dressed woman, in a room. Fortunately for her she almost always was. She had a curly tangled mane of red-gold hair, transparently pale skin, and dramatically dark brown eyes. She was very tall and extremely slender; she had in fact a genetic tendency, a legacy
from her mother, to put on weight, and from the age of twelve when she had heard somebody say she was developing puppy fat, she had been on a ferocious diet. Nobody had ever seen Camilla North put butter on her bread or sugar in her coffee; she never ate cheese, avocados, cereal or cookies; she weighed herself twice a day, and if the scales tipped an ounce over eight stone, she simply stopped eating altogether until they went back again. She quite often went to bed hungry, and dreamed about food.

  She always dressed superbly; sharp stark slender clothes, in brilliant red, stinging blue, or emerald. At college she had been famous for her cashmere, her kilts, her loafers, a supreme example of the preppy look; but as soon as she left, she abandoned them and moved into dresses, suits, grown-up clothes, the severity always relieved by some witty dashing accessory, a scarf, a big necklace, a wide leather belt in some brilliant unexpected colour. She loved shoes; she had dozens of pairs, mostly classic courts with very high heels which she somehow managed to move gracefully in; but she looked best of all in her riding clothes, in her white breeches, black jacket, and her long, wonderfully worn and polished boots, her red hair scooped severely back. She occasionally hunted side-saddle; it was an extraordinary display of horsemanship and she looked more wonderful still, in a navy habit and white stock, a top hat covering her wild hair. So much did she like her habit that she had a version of it made in velvet for the evening; she wore it without a shirt, and with a pearl choker at her throat, her hair cascading over her shoulders; it was a sight that took men’s breath away, and it was this that she was wearing when she first met Julian Morell.