How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend

by Monks of New Skete

  However, there are certain risks a prospective owner takes when adopting a puppy or older dog from a shelter. Owner negligence and incompetence often explain a dog's presence in the shelter, but not always. Sometimes the dogs have manifested problems that, despite the owners' best efforts, were unable to be solved and may require serious time, energy, and expense to rehabilitate. Also, though a young pup ideally should have been with his mother and littermates until seven weeks of age and been properly socialized with human beings, pups may be left at shelters too young (prior to six weeks), well before they've had enough chance to interact with their mother, siblings, and human beings. This can lead to serious behavioral problems later on. Even when he has been socialized well and raised conscientiously, the longer the pup stays in the shelter, the greater the likelihood he may develop fear-avoidance behaviors that are the result of being under-socialized during the fear period (eight to ten weeks of age). Since there may be no way animal-shelter personnel can adequately socialize the great number of pups they receive, the youngsters may be neglected at a critical time. Thus, if you decide to adopt a puppy from a shelter, it is usually best to do so when it is between six and eight weeks of age.

  This said, the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, headquartered in New York City) and independent local humane societies have made serious efforts to help place dogs responsibly with new owners. Many shelters have introduced behavioral programs for dogs in the shelter to improve their adoptability: dog walking, environmental enrichment, and rudimentary training. The ASPCA's website (www.aspca.org and the related www.petfinder.com) offers profiles of dogs who are up for adoption throughout the nation. Just because your local shelter may not have what you are looking for does not preclude the possibility of finding a suitable pet at another shelter in your general vicinity.

  When you decide to look for a pet from a shelter, the following information will help you to do so in a more informed way and minimize the chance of taking home a potential problem. First, try to find out whatever you can about the dog that interests you. Ask shelter personnel about the background of the animal. Sometimes information is not always available; sometimes it is. Did this particular one live with a family? Has he been around children, noise, stairs, city life? Why was he brought to the shelter? When you view the dogs themselves, try to "read" each one individually without staring; glance back and forth in an unthreatening manner and form a general impression. Bear in mind that many dogs react aggressively when confronted with a barrier such as a kennel or cage, so as you pass by, squat down in front so that you face the cage sideways, not head-on. This posture is less threatening. Offer the back of your hand on the outside of the cage for the dog to investigate and smell, and speak to the dog in a soft, gentle manner. Never put your fingers through the bars. Look for even-tempered approaches: a cheerful greeting — paws on the front of the kennel with tail wagging, rubbing its body along the wire as if to solicit petting, or simply a quiet, unthreatened observation of you. If you are interested in a particular animal, ask to take her for a walk on leash, in a controlled area. Even then, though, you may not get an accurate reading of the dog, since she is in a strange environment, with a strange person. Be patient, and from time to time sit down and let the dog adjust to you. If she is overly aggressive or shy, reconsider taking the dog. Try to remain coldly objective. Don't be swayed by sorrowful eyes, mournful whimpering, or "friskiness" on the part of the animal. If you are considering a puppy, use the guidelines further on in this chapter to help you evaluate temperament; if possible, take along someone knowledgeable about dogs to help you make a selection and provide a second opinion.

  One final tip: if you are looking for a dog and find an appealing one who has been spayed or neutered, chances are good that the dog came from a situation in which the owners felt enough responsibility and concern for the animal to have it altered. Above all, don't go to a shelter on a lark. Shelter dogs are every bit as worthy of a serious commitment to love and companionship as purebred dogs. There is never any justification for a cavalier attitude that says, "No problem, he's just a mutt — if things don't work out, I'll simply get rid of him."

  Breed Rescue

  Another good source for finding a purebred dog is a breed rescue club. These clubs have come into existence in response to the alarming number of purebred dogs showing up at animal shelters. Generous purebred fanciers who are sincerely committed to their particular breeds open their homes and kennels to individual dogs who, for whatever reason, need a new home. During their stay at the rescue home, the dogs are checked for overall health and evaluated for temperament, basic obedience skills, and house training. Volunteers often work with dogs who need to improve in specific areas to meet the requirements of adoptability. The last thing people working in breed rescue want is an animal to be recycled for adoption again and again.

  Checking with a breed rescue club is both a sensible and an exciting choice for someone who is looking for a purebred dog yet may not be able to afford a puppy from a breeder, or prefers a slightly older dog. As is the case whenever adopting a secondhand dog, however, try to find out as much about the dog's background as you can. Pay close attention to the impressions the temporary owner has formed of the dog while in his or her care. Generally the standards of breed rescue clubs on temperament are demanding, particularly regarding aggression, since nothing is gained by placing a poor reflection of the breed into society.

  Breed rescue clubs exist for almost every registered breed and can be located by contacting the AKC, or visiting the websites of Canine Connections (www.canine-connections.com) and Pro Dog Networks (www.prodogs.com).

  Where Not to Get a Dog*

  Pet Stores

  If there is one thing professional breeders, trainers, behaviorists, and veterinarians all agree on with respect to dogs, it is this: avoid pet stores when contemplating adopting a puppy. We are not aware of one respected guide to adopting and caring for a puppy written in the past twenty years that recommends pet stores as a place to find a pup, and for very good reasons. Pet stores are profit-making institutions, suitable places for obtaining pet merchandise perhaps, but wholly inappropriate for obtaining a puppy. They acquire the vast majority of their puppies from puppy mills, notorious breeding factories where dogs are bred as livestock, repeatedly and without concern for the health of the dogs, in filthy, inhumane conditions. Socialization is unknown, and vaccinations are rarely given. Puppies are routinely separated from their mothers and littermates prematurely, shipped cross-country to pet stores, often arriving at their destinations weak, dehydrated, and in poor condition. After a superficial sprucing up, stores then often sell them for prices that exceed those of a reputable breeder. With no information on the parents' temperaments or on how the puppy was raised, prospective buyers are making an expensive roll of the dice for the convenience of taking a dog home immediately. Who knows what sickness might be incubating that several weeks later leads to serious veterinary bills, or the behavioral problems that may arise several months down the road because of inadequate socialization? There is, of course, the chance that you may get lucky and get a decent pet, but what is the wisdom in supporting an industry that is overall so abusive to the interests of the dogs?

  Also be aware that pet stores are increasingly recognizing the public-relations disaster stemming from their dealings with puppy mills. Don't be deceived by pet stores that reassure you that their puppies come from "local breeders." Let's get the label correct. These are "backyard breeders" who breed their dogs for profit, with little knowledge of the science of breeding and little real concern for improving the breed (which is obviously why we would not recommend adopting a puppy from such a breeder directly). Even granting their good intentions, we have heard of far too many horror stories to ever recommend such breedings. Furthermore, in our judgment, no ethical, reputable breeder would ever sell his or her puppies to a pet store that allows the pups to be sold to a buyer with nothing other than a va
lid credit card. Period.

  Choosing a Puppy from a Litter

  As breeders, we have had years of experience in placing puppies. We have found that it is not a good idea to allow prospective customers to view a whole litter and pick a puppy on their own. Many times they choose the wrong puppy. All litters have their loners, aggressors, and retreaters. Most people feel that the puppy who immediately breaks out of the litter group and runs up to them, jumping at the fence or barrier, is "the dog for me." We've often heard people say, "I didn't choose him, he chose me — he ran right up to me, and that's how I picked him." The trouble is, often the pup that "runs right up" is the most dominant, and possibly the most prone to behavioral problems in the wrong situation. Clients who are emotional pushovers and are charmed by puppy antics always fall for this approach. Meanwhile, they may ignore other puppies who come up less quickly or who linger for a while. Yet one of them might actually be the right puppy.

  When viewing puppies, try to see each individual one alone, in a separate room. This is the only way to get an idea of each personality. Don't try to evaluate a puppy in his litter. It's next to impossible. If you are a novice at this kind of selection process, read up on it before visiting a breeder. The test we use to help us evaluate the personality and temperament of puppies was developed by Jack and Wendy Volhard and is described at length in both our puppy book and video series. Understanding Your Dog, by Dr. Michael Fox, and Behavior Problems in Dogs, by William E. Campbell, also contain basic puppy-evaluation tests.

  Ask the breeder for help in selecting the right puppy. Having observed the pups intimately for close to two months as well as tested them at seven weeks, he or she will have a much more accurate sense of each puppy than you will be able to form in one viewing. For this reason, some breeders insist on making the choice for you. If this is the case, don't be put off by a breeder's thoroughness. He or she might interview you extensively beforehand, to find out what your needs and desires are in a dog. Try to answer these questions honestly and completely. It is an effort for the breeder to do so, and thus it is wise to be a little cautious of breeders who do not. If one does interview you as to your feelings about a dog, it is a sure sign that he or she wants to place the puppies carefully. The breeder will then match a puppy to you and your situation as closely as possible. If you are new at selecting puppies, or if you are in a deadlock position between two puppies you are considering, trust the breeder to make the right choice. The breeder wants to make a good match and will not try to foist a bad or inferior puppy on you. It is in the breeder's best interest to make a good match between clients and puppies. Most breeders have had previous experience in placing puppies, know how to evaluate puppy behavior, and should be willing to share the results of their observations with you.

  6

  Researching Canine Roots

  Newfoundlands invariably like to swim, retrievers like to retrieve, dachshunds like to dig and burrow, and Siberian huskies love to cavort in the snow. Why? That's what they were bred to do. An amazing number of otherwise educated people do not know the original occupation of their breed of dog. In a time when many people are concerned about their "roots," dogs' roots go unexplored. Yet knowing the background of your chosen breed can help you appreciate your dog more fully and even aid in solving behavioral problems.

  Newfoundlands love the water. At a water trial, a Newf tugs a canoe out to a "drowning" victim, at the same time rediscovering her canine roots.

  Dogs are divided into seven basic groups, plus a "miscellaneous" class. There are the sporting breeds, like the spaniels, setters, and retrievers. The toy group includes smaller dogs like Yorkshire terriers, Chihuahuas, or the papillon. Terriers include the Airedale, schnauzer, and fox terriers. The working group, for the most part, comprises larger dogs like the Newfoundland, the rottweiler, and the Doberman pinscher. Hound breeds feature the borzoi, the Afghan, and the droopyeyed bloodhound. The so-called non-sporting dogs include the much-loved Lhasa Apso, the Dalmatian, and the poodle. The herding group includes the German shepherd dog, the Welsh corgi, and the collie. The miscellaneous class includes breeds not yet fully recognized by the AKC (e.g., Neapolitan mastiff and Beauceron), who are not yet eligible to achieve a championship degree.

  These categories do not always help explain the original occupation of the breed. For instance, standard poodles are placed in the non-sporting group, but this doesn't give a hint as to their origins and exceptional retrieving capabilities in the water. It is a very ancient and noble breed, though the public's conception seems to be influenced more by its unusual hairstyle than by its intelligence and high working abilities. It's a similar story with many breeds. Sometimes a considerable amount of research is required to find the raison d'être of a given breed.

  The objection that your breed's original occupation no longer exists is no reason to deprive your dog of its genetic heritage. You can provide some kind of modified activity. For instance, Newfoundlands are rarely called upon to rescue drowning victims anymore (except on the coast of France, where they are still so employed), but they might serve as good lifeguards and companions for children on a swimming expedition. A German shepherd living in New Jersey won't have much chance to herd sheep, but it may be of real service as a baby-sitter and protector. The borzoi, a coursing hound, might no longer have the opportunity to chase down wolves, especially in a country where wolves are on the endangered species list, but it might enjoy galloping freely over a wide-open field or golf course. Siberian huskies and other sled dogs were bred selectively to have a strong fore assembly to pull heavily laden sleds. Is it any wonder that many an urban Siberian husky owner has trouble keeping the dog at a strict heel?

  It's outside the scope of this book to explore the working history of every breed. But it's a good idea to get a book about your particular breed, and if you have a mixed breed, find out what combination you have — and get two or more books if necessary. Some libraries are stocked with books on the better-known breeds. The more obscure breeds usually have a national club that is willing to send out pamphlets.

  Once you find out the background of your dog, spend some time thinking about how you can reach back and enliven his area of interest. Don't be surprised, however, if you get no reaction from your dog. Many Irish setters are no longer interested in pointing, and some cocker spaniels may have absolutely no interest in a woodcock or even in going into the water. In general, breeds that zoom in popularity tend to lose some of their working ability, and their original essence is often diluted as a result of overbreeding and indiscriminate breeding.

  On the other hand, searching out your dog's background might give the dog a new lease on life. We once had a Labrador retriever with serious chewing and house-soiling problems. While the dog was with us, we took it into the woods. Immediately, a light went on in the dog's eyes, and when the dog returned from an outing, he was quiet and mellow. Since his master liked to hunt, we suggested having the dog trained in hunting work. Needless to say, the companionship that comes from hunting probably did the dog a world of good, but the chance to express deep-seated instinctual drives might have helped the dog's behavior, too. Chewing and house soiling ceased after the dog became a field dog, and he continued to live in the house.

  7

  How to Read a Pedigree

  Millions of people today are delving into their past, researching their family trees. Nowhere is genealogy currently more popular than in the United States. We are intrigued by seemingly unexplainable talents or tendencies, physical traits, drives, illnesses, or depressions, so we look back to those individuals, living or dead, whom we find melded into the pot of our existence. They provide a strong clue to the mystery of who we are. Though environmental influences play a major role in what we become, they can never increase or decrease what is already within us.

  Owning a dog is much like having another member in the family. Here, too, we marvel at all that has gone into the creation of this devoted friend. A mongrel can be a surprise
package — a great addition to home life or a mistake that we learn to live with. A purebred often gives us a better idea of what's in store for us. Knowing the history of the breed is an invaluable aid in zeroing in on the individual dog. Knowing the more immediate ancestry is better still.

  To most people, pedigrees are as mysterious as the word's etymology. Actually, pedigree comes from the French pied de grue, which means "crane's foot": the expanding web of ancestral generations resembles the spreading toes of that bird. Just like a family tree, a certified (AKC) or expanded (one that includes non-AKC-recognized degrees) dog pedigree provides the ancestral lineage of your puppy. People adopting a pup from a breeder should expect such a pedigree (usually going back to the great-grandparents), and should be wary of breeders who fail to provide one. Be that as it may, the pedigree itself contains a code of registration numbers and earned-degree abbreviations unfamiliar to most owners. Many people who would like to understand their dog's pedigree don't know where to begin breaking this code. A detailed discussion of pedigree analysis and judgments concerning various breedings is beyond the scope of this book; however, it is possible to provide a general description of the information contained in a pedigree as well as questions that it might legitimately raise.

  You need several things to make sense of a normal pedigree like the sample expanded pedigree we have provided.*First, you need to have a key to understanding the titles and numbers. Obviously, this would include AKC title abbreviations, but since many working dogs in the United States have been imported or come from German or other foreign ancestry, their titles should be included as well. Prefix titles, those appearing before the dog's name, refer to breed titles and certain specific working titles. For example, the "ch" before the mother's name, Ch. Gondor's Ally CD, indicates that the dam has received her AKC-recognized championship, a certification that her conformation is of high quality vis-à-vis the breed standard. Suffix titles, those appearing after the dog's name, refer to various working titles a dog may have earned: here, the "CD" indicates that she earned her Companion Dog degree (off-leash proficiency in the basic obedience exercises) by competing successfully in several AKC-sponsored matches.