Passione Celeste

by Mark Pritchard

  As one of the early finishers there weren’t many people around as I crossed the line, and I was able to spot Barry. After loading my bike into my car I retrieved his book and went to see if I could persuade him to sign it for me. My luck was in. Not only did Barry sign the book with a nice personal message of encouragement, but his wife Helen took a photo of us standing together. Barry was very generous with his time and we chatted for about 20 minutes. He looked slightly bemused when I waved the book in front of him. Helen subsequently explained that he’d got another book coming out next year, and before he saw mine had probably wondered how I’d managed to get hold of the new one before publication.

  All in all this was a great day, with an enjoyable ride and the chance to meet one of my cycling icons. As I type this text I can see the photo on the shelf above my desk. And just like Barry I enjoy watching the wheels go round.

  Wednesday 5 August 2015, 55 Miles

  Preparations and the Death of An Old Friend

  With just under two weeks to the start of Lejog the reality of it is almost upon me. Nearly one year has passed since I signed up. For the last couple of weeks I’ve been busy, both on the bike riding, and also off it setting up some ‘infrastructure’. Work on the infrastructure is now nearly complete. I’ve pretty well finished setting up my blog site but I need to resist the temptation to try and continually ‘tweak and improve’ it – the tweaking temptation is quite addictive. I’ve also set up a Just Giving page for charity donations as I want to raise some money for Prostate Cancer UK. Much more importantly I have been getting in the miles on my bike in the recent dry weather. So far this year I’ve ridden close to 10,000 miles (recorded on Strava) plus an additional 3,500 miles that are either not on Strava or were ridden on the turbo trainer in my garage.

  The bike I was intending to use for the ride was a Bianchi Via Nirone 7. A couple of weeks ago I put it in to my local bike shop (Madgetts of Diss) for a complete strip-down, service and rebuild. Unfortunately (or fortunately as it turned out) they spotted that the frame had a crack. The five-year warranty still had a couple of weeks to run so I was able to get a brand-new replacement frame (an Impulso). Mick Madgett and Bianchi UK played a blinder getting me a new frame so quickly. Mick photographed the frame, emailed the pics to a lady called Lucia at Bianchi Towers in Bedford, and hey presto a new frame materialised without any fuss and bother. Now that’s what I call service!

  I was very sad to see the old Nirone go as we’ve travelled a lot of miles together – I estimate we’ve covered around 30,000 miles over the last five years. The Nirone is (was) a wonderful bike and built for long days in the saddle. We’d got to know and understand each other’s quirks during our time together; the Nirone was quite forgiving of mine, and always seemed to finish our rides with a smile or a laugh. I only wish I could have kept her to mount ceremoniously in my garage, but Bianchi want the frame back to examine it.

  The new Impulso frame was built up with the Nirone’s groupset and I took it out this morning for a first ride. Initial impressions are good: the frame feels slightly different (a bit stiffer) and I need to make some minor adjustments to my saddle height which is a few millimetres out. I just hope that I have as much pleasure with the Impulso as I did with the Nirone. The signs are encouraging and I am hopeful that we will go on to have lots of fun together. The main priority now is to keep my mileage up before getting ready for Le Grand Depart. I’m also really pleased that the fundraising for Prostate Cancer UK has kicked off, with the first two donations amounting to £70 arriving just a few minutes after my Just Giving page went live.

  Thursday 6 August 2015, 108 Miles

  Doughnuts by the Seaside

  Today I took the Impulso out for its first big ride of the year, and one of my favourites. Together we headed east to Orford on the Suffolk coast to visit the Pump Street Bakery to sample their excellent doughnuts. We also made a slight detour to pop down to nearby Bawdsey Quay.

  One of the things I really enjoy while riding is the chance to see some interesting wildlife. Because riding is a fairly quiet activity I can often get quite close to wild animals before they see me. Today I saw a female roe deer which did a handbrake turn when it registered that I was about 20 feet away! I also spotted a rather sluggish adder near the roadside. But the highlight of the day was a sparrowhawk, which I recognised from its call.

  I also ‘enjoyed’ a spot of road rage while passing through Framlingham. A young lad in a souped-up Vauxhall Nova decided to overtake me at speed in a narrow road. He was so focussed on me that he didn’t spot the Range Rover approaching him and had to slam on his brakes – squealing tyres and a bit of burnt rubber meant that he only just managed to stop in front of the Range Rover. The driver of the Range Rover, who was blocking the way ahead, and was a rather posh (judging by her voice) and stoutly built lady then got out and gave the lad a full-on ear-bashing. He didn’t know where to put himself and couldn’t escape because I was right behind him, closely followed by a builder in a van who was laughing like a drain!

  Friday, 7 August 2015, 55 Miles

  No Particular Place to Go, or Going to No Particular Place

  Most days when I go out riding I follow a pre-planned route. This is normally because I have a certain amount of time available or because I can anticipate the likely effort involved. But from time to time I like to ring the changes and set off with no clear idea of where I’ll go and just follow the road as the mood takes me. When I go for a random ride like this I try to explore a lane or two that I haven’t ridden before; which is not as easy as you might think.

  Well, today was a ‘random ride day’. Feeling a little sluggish after yesterday’s century ride I took it a bit easier. Nevertheless I had a great time and on the way I passed Gedding Hall, which is where Bill Wyman (the original bass player with the Rolling Stones) lives. This is a rather splendid fifteenth-century pile which he’s lived in for over 30 years. A bit of Giggling on the Interweb revealed that he has also been quite a benefactor to the local community over the years.

  The ‘new’ lane explored today was the oddly named Louse Lane! I did wonder why the good old woodlouse should have been commemorated in this way. The adjacent Rattlesden Airfield sign looked as though it has been used for target practice with a fairly serious gun. Unless someone was trying to eradicate the lice. After about 30 miles the sun shone so I felt good, and my legs had certainly loosened up by the time I got home. Then it was back to more mundane domestic matters. Great too to see that some sponsorship funds are coming in following yesterday’s emailshot. Huge thanks to all who have made such generous donations to help me support Prostate Cancer UK.

  Saturday 8 August 2015, 45 Miles

  I’m Off – Almost

  I had something of a false start this morning when I discovered that my front wheel had a slow puncture caused by a tiny flake of gravel which was embedded in the tyre. Fortunately I’m planning to fit new tyres before I set off on Lejog as the existing ones are well worn. So after a quick wheel change – I’ll fit the new tyres another time – I was off. The infernal wind was still blowing but the sun was shining and it wasn’t long before I was feeling pretty warm.

  Most of the villages round here have interesting signs which show features of interest. These can sometimes be quite obscure and it’s fun to try and work out what the story they’re telling is. Otherwise some Interweb Giggling back at home can give some insights. The wrought iron sign at Wickam Skeith depicted the village church, a windmill, a pollarded tree, a swan and the village pond.

  Once back home I went online to find out a bit more. Fascinating. Wikipedia says that possibly the last ‘swimming’ or ‘dunking’ in the country as a test of witchcraft occurred here in 1825. Isaac Stebbings, a pedlar aged about 67, was accused of black magic and driving two people (a thatcher’s wife and a farmer) insane. He was immersed in the Grimmer and floated three times – considered a positive indication of g
uilt in those times. A second trial was planned for the following week, but the clergyman and churchwardens intervened and kept people away from the Grimmer. Three women were also found to be guilty by a witchfinder general, but mostly of deviating from the religious line of the local church. No records seem to exist as to their demise, natural or otherwise. Hmm.

  Sunday 9 August 2015, 82 Miles

  The Ups and Downs of the Village Pub (Part 1)

  No puncture issues this morning so I set off in bright sunshine with the prospect of a hot ride ahead. It was so nice that every time I got close to home I found a turning to take me a bit further away and ended up doing about 80 miles – I had originally planned to do around 50!

  As I reported yesterday I enjoy looking at the village signs I pass. I also enjoy looking, and sometimes visiting, village pubs. Traditionally they have been the heart of the village community but today are facing tough times in the prevailing economic climate. When I was a teenager most rural village pubs had a limited offer – beer, wine, and spirits. Some had good beer – real ale from the cask but Watney’s Red Barrel (that dates me) and bottles of Double Diamond were usually the norm. A few pubs served bar snacks. And a very few had a small restaurant – usually in a room at the back. But the village pub was a cornerstone of the community where you could meet friends and catch up on the gossip. Most pubs were welcoming, even if you lived in a different village. And riding there on a bike, in the mistaken belief that you could legally drink more than when driving a car, offered lots of opportunities.

  So, I’ve been musing on the place of the pub today. So many have closed – the Bull at Troston has now been shut and for sale for a couple of years. Interestingly, the sign this morning in front of The Bull is advertising a ‘pop-up’ pub in the village hall. The demand for a community facility is clearly still there, but probably not at the level that the pub owners can make a living from. And I guess as it’s owned by the brewery then they’re thinking more in terms of shareholder returns than community support

  Other village pubs have changed their offer. The Elveden Inn is a good example. When I first went there in 1979 it was a small, dingy place catering mainly for the local village with some trade from the A11 main road which passed nearby. I remember it as a place that did a steady trade – good enough to make a living from but not much more. Which was fine – supply and demand in harmony. Now the Inn has re-invented itself, catering principally for a visiting trade – functions, out of town eating, breakfasts and accommodation. And it’s thriving. I suppose it also helps that it’s part of the Elveden Estate owned by Lord Iveagh (of the Guinness family).

  So there we are – I’m going to have a ride around in the next couple of days to see if I can develop these musings on the role and place of the village pub a bit more.

  Monday 10 August 2015, 71 Miles

  The Ups and Downs of the Village Pub (Part 2)

  There was not as much sun as yesterday but it was still very pleasant if rather humid. I was on the road by 8am with a couple of ideas in my mind about developing my village pub musings.

  First stop was the Shoulder of Mutton in Old Newton, as I vaguely recalled something odd about it from a previous ride. And sure enough, it’s now a Chinese takeaway! Its location means that it doesn’t have the appearance of a country pub – in the pretty sense. In fact it has a distinctly urban feel to it. But clearly the demand for Chinese food is high in Old Newton. Interestingly, it still retains the pub signs so maybe there’s something of an identity crisis.

  Leaving Old Newton I headed over to Debenham and thence to Earl Soham, home of a good micro-brewery and a butcher’s shop with a pavement café that I must investigate another time. Then I rode on to Thorndon, near Eye where I remembered that there was another pub which had responded to changing needs in an interesting way.

  The Black Horse is a thriving establishment. As well as the usual pub offerings it has a restaurant open daily with a lunchtime carvery and an evening takeaway service (fish and chips, curries etc.). But not only is it a pub, it is also a community shop, owned and run by people from the village. And as I discovered this morning this really is a one-stop site as there’s also a mobile post office. So this seems to be a really imaginative way to stay at the top of the game.

  A nice meander through the lanes brought me back home in time for lunch with another 70 miles in my legs. And for tomorrow, the final chapter in my pub musings – maybe.

  Tuesday 11 August 2015, 62 Miles

  The Ups and Downs of the Village Pub (Part 3)

  There was a distinct chill in the air when I set off this morning. A complete contrast to yesterday and for the first few minutes I was wondering if I should have put on some arm warmers and a gilet. But as it’s early August I absolutely refuse to don autumnal plumage!

  Anyway, back to the subject at hand: the village pub. Today’s quest took me to The Metcalfe Arms at Hawstead just south of Bury St Edmunds. Or perhaps I should say the pub formerly known as The Metcalfe Arms, since about twelve months ago it became the Maglia Rosso, a rather splendid café and bike shop selling some pretty good gear. Well, in the world of diversification this certainly gets my vote. I enjoyed a lovely cappuccino and the Infinito I was riding today had a tasty flapjack. I ended my visit by drooling over some rather nice bike frames in the shop. Sadly though, no Bianchi’s here – yet.

  It seems from my recent surveys that there are endless possibilities for the village pub to evolve and meet the challenges of changing demand. Reassuringly, there still seems to be a place for the traditional village pub, but perhaps rather in more of a niche market than previously? The Crown at Hartest seems to be just such a place. Situated in a splendid location their ‘aim is simple – to serve good food and drink at sensible prices in a relaxed, friendly and clean environment’. Spot on; I couldn’t have said it better than that.

  As I head north on Lejog next week I’ll be looking with interest at the pubs en route to see how they stack up against my little survey. And who knows, I might just do a little hands-on market research…

  There is one other notable achievement to report today: my riding log shows that I have now ridden 14,000.8 miles since 1 January. The 0.8 miles is significant!

  Wednesday 12 August 2015, 60 Miles

  A Day of Two Halves

  I took the Impulso which I’ll be riding Lejog on over to Madgetts for a tune-up: the headset, new cables and the rear gears needed some adjustment now that they’ve done a few miles following the recent rebuild. Chatting to the team in the shop I was reminded how lucky I am to have such a great bike shop on my doorstep. They may not be flashy, in the modern sense, but their service is outstanding and the enthusiasm and knowledge of the team is second to none. They are all bike mad and I sometimes wonder how they manage to get any work done amongst the chatter. I got some interesting comments from them about the hills on the last stage to John O’Groats which set me thinking. So, as cyclists say: ‘Chapeau Madgetts!’

  After lunch I took the Impulso out for a test ride. Everything was working perfectly and the gear changes were as smooth as silk. Now Suffolk is not a particularly hilly place; there are a few little bumps if you know where to look. So following this morning’s chatter I went looking. My ride round south Suffolk would best be described as slightly lumpy: enough ups and downs to break the rhythm but nothing too testing.

  Non-cyclists don’t really ‘get’ our liking for hills! But the sheer exhilaration of conquering a good climb is second to none. I’ve been looking at the climbing bible – Simon Warren’s ‘100 Greatest Cycling Climbs’ – and discovered that the Lejog trip involves at least three of them (reports to follow). One of my sponsors has offered me an extra £5 if I can beat the target time for one of the climbs. Hmm.

  Thursday 13 August 2015, 0 Miles

  Preparation Time

  Sadly no riding today: preparation was the order of business. First up
I gave the Impulso a wash and polish so it now sparkles and looks like new. Then I gathered together all the bits and pieces I’ll need: inner tubes, a spare (folding) tyre, chain degreaser, lube and multitool. After getting the equipment together I did some ‘inside’ work loading the route files onto my Garmin and making sure that I had all the other information (accommodation details, etc.). I also spent a little time looking at the route in a bit more detail to get a better sense of what was to come. I realised that this was in danger of becoming mildly obsessive so I packed it in and decided to adopt a more ‘take it as it comes’ approach; we’ll see if this lasts.

  This evening I took the Impulso over to tour leader Martyn Ryan at ACT Cycling so that he could load it into the support van and transport it to Penzance. I’m guessing that the next time I see it will be at Land’s End on Sunday morning…

  Saturday 15 August 2015, 0 Miles

  Yaay ‒ I’m (Sort Of) Under Way!

  No blogging or cycling yesterday. Instead I was busy sorting out my kit before I set off by train for London to stay with Megan, my youngest daughter. We had an enjoyable evening out, with a delicious meal at Wahaca, the Mexican restaurant chain started by Masterchef winner Thomasina Miers. As I write this I am on the train to Penzance, a five-hour journey with plenty of time to relax and think about what lies ahead over the next fortnight.

  It’s great to get under way as I realised when looking at my diary yesterday that it is almost exactly one year since I paid the deposit and committed to riding Lejog. I am really looking forward to pressing the start button on the Garmin and rolling out of Land’s End tomorrow. And this evening I will finally get to meet the group that I will be riding with. We have already done some virtual introductions by email. Our numbers have also swelled to 15 so we should be a nice little peloton.