Hidden Ontario

by Terry Boyle

  The three-mile gap across Rice Lake would be spanned by a trestle. With dynamic enterprise the people of Cobourg voted to tax themselves to bring this railway into being. Peterborough offered no capital but plenty of encouragement.

  The 15-mile line to Harwood on Rice Lake was completed by May, 1854. Meanwhile, a piling-machine had been pounding massive beams, for the trestle, into the muddy bottom of Rice Lake. On December 8th the first work-train arrived in Ashburnham, on the east side of the Otonabee River, opposite Peterborough.

  The railway was a tremendous boon to the millers, merchants, and manufacturers of Peterborough. Cobourg’s exports rose dramatically, and Harwood came to life as the main sawmill and shipping centre on Rice Lake.

  There was, however, one significant problem: the impressive trestle bridge rested on shaky foundations and was soon no match for the winter ice on the lake. The ice pressure was quite capable of snapping a two-foot square beam in half. During the winter of 1854–55, the ice shoved some of the tresses, twisted the rails out of shape, and opened a two-metre (seven foot) gap at the Harwood end. Again and again, the bridge was closed for repairs. Any money the railway earned was soon spent on repairs to the teetering trestle bridge.

  The bridge actually became quite an embarrassment when the Prince of Wales and his royal party, en route from Cobourg to Peterborough, in September 1860, had to be transferred from the train at Rice Lake to the steamer Otonabee for the lake crossing. Officials feared for the life of the prince if he were to cross the bridge by train. The train crept slowly across the rickety bridge, and the prince re-boarded on the other side. By the spring of 1862, the bridge finally collapsed and floated away with the ice. The demise of the bridge meant the demise of the entire Cobourg Railway.

  In the early 1860s, Cobourg may have appeared to be a prosperous town, waiting to become a city, but the truth of the situation was far from its appearance. The local paper made continual reference to the hard times that had fallen on the town. The Cobourg and Peterborough Railway had cost a million dollars, yet it failed to pay running expenses. On May 13, 1864, Henry Hough wrote in the the Cobourg World, “It seems, as far as we can learn, to be generally admitted fact that Cobourg, as a business and commercial town, has gone down. There was a time when it took a front rank among the towns of the country; when business was brisk and plentiful; when the streets were thronged with bustling people, and the workshops with industrious and contented workmen.” The citizens continued to pay for their town until 1938.

  The Commercial House, on the main street of Cobourg, in the 1870s.

  Archives of Ontario

  In the 1870s Cobourg experienced the arrival of many Americans who were anxious to spend their summers by the lake. One American observed, on beholding the town hall, “That is indeed a splendid building, but where is the town for whose use it was built?”

  At one time it was stated that every admiral in the American Navy had passed at least one holiday season in Cobourg. Society among them was very cultured and refined. Later on, a wealthier class of Americans, principally steel capitalists from Pittsburgh, arrived to make Cobourg their summer home. Some of these new arrivals purchased and enlarged stately old residences, while others erected palatial homes after the style of Newport, Maine.

  General Charles Fitzhugh was one of the wealthy Americans who built a summer home in Cobourg. He was born in Oswego, New York, in 1838 and later entered West Point Academy. When the young men of the nation were called to war, Charles Fitzhugh at once gave his services to his country and, after being in action a short while, received a commission as first lieutenant. Promotion followed quickly in the field, and he soon became the youngest general in the northern army during the American Civil War.

  This spacious mansion, entitled Strathmore and built in the 1870s, suited the period of elegance and grace created by the American summer homes in Cobourg.

  Courtesy of Rob Mickel

  He married Emma Shoenberger in 1865 and resigned from the army two years later. In 1900 he built Ravensworth, a stunning summer home on the shore of Lake Ontario. In keeping with the colonial appearance, the grounds were laid out in a graceful manner, with elegant gardens, immaculately groomed. Ravensworth was to become the scene of great family gatherings and marvelous social events for high, summer society. The architectural formality of the house complemented the lavish dinner parties, and the social rules were made palatable by the sweeping curves of gowns, the softly curled hair, the light laughter, and long gold cigarette holders. People flowed from one room to the other. Music and dancing continued until dawn, with crystal chandeliers glittering in the rays of the early morning sun.

  Both the general and his wife died in 1923, and their summer home was sold to Richard Baylor Hickman of Kentucky. Soon after, Ravensworth became the scene of an attempted assassination. One evening Hickman was sitting in his library, quietly reading a book, when a bullet whistled through the air and lodged itself into the wall paneling three inches above his head. Hickman raced out of the house to search the grounds but was unable to find the culprit. He retired for the night, with the intention of notifying the police in the morning. Sometime during the night, the would-be assassin returned, entered the library, and removed the bullet from the wall. Neither bullet nor man were ever found.

  Today, Ravensworth is a private residence and remains virtually unchanged. Still a splendid house, it is a reminder of a bygone era of ease and elegance.

  Cobourg, over the years, has been home to several famous people. The first mayor, William Weller, established the widely known Weller Stage Line, operated from Montreal and Hamilton. Ulysses S. Grant, 18th president of the United States, spent his summers at Cobourg; Marie Dressler, a movie star perhaps best-known as Tugboat Annie, was born here. Others who once lived in Cobourg and went on to find fame elsewhere were James Cockburn, one of the Fathers of Confederation; Beatrice Lillie and Katharine Cornell, both famous actresses; and Paul Kane, the world-famous artist.

  Cobourg may never have become a city, but the image of prosperity exemplified by Victoria Hall and other beautiful and unique period homes still remains. Thanks to those who persevered — the first settlers when they traced bleeding feet and lived in swampy land — we are able to enjoy the beauty carved out of this Ontario wilderness.

  Cochrane

  Francis Cochrane was the Ontario minister of lands, forests, and mines in the early 1900s. The townsite at the terminal point for the Temiskaming and Northern Ontario Railway was named in his honour.

  The townsite itself was not laid out until 1907; prior to that, the area had been touched only by Natives, trappers, and the natural kingdom. In November 1907 a public sale of lots was held for prospective settlers. The lots measured 20 by 36 metres (66 by 120 feet), surrounded by 17 avenues 30 metres (100 feet) wide, running north and south, and narrower ones running east and west.

  As you can well imagine, there were no long lineups to purchase these lots, as they were quite small for the standards of the time. The plans changed somewhat when lots were not properly cleared, and those not sold at the auction were allowed to keep their blankets of virgin forest. The close proximity of lots meant homes were built so close together that fire was a major threat to the community. As a matter of fact, Cochrane suffered a rash of fires in a span of six years.

  A few months after its incorporation in 1910, Cochrane’s core was destroyed in a burning blaze and promptly rebuilt. Later, in July 1911, at the height of the Porcupine gold rush, gale-force winds turned scattered bush fires into one massive firestorm that devastated several towns and mining camps in the area, including Cochrane and Timmins. The 3,000 residents of Cochrane rebuilt their town, hoping to never see the likes of such a fire again. Hopes aside, tragedy struck again, in July 1916. They called it “The Great Fire of 1916.” High winds once again turned separate fires, which were already burning in the tinder-dry woods along the railway lines, into one vast conflagration that scorched 500,000 acres. Numerous settlements, in
cluding Matheson and Cochrane, were affected, and many lives were lost.

  Cochrane has survived a rash of fires and, as pictured, many heavy winters.

  Archives of Ontario

  One of the first buildings in Cochrane was shipped on railway flat cars from its original site in Chapleau. The year was 1909 and the building was an Anglican Church. The church was set among the pine trees north of what was later known as Bishopthorpe. By 1914 there was also a Catholic Church and a Baptist Church.

  The town underwent some changes after the fire of 1916. Residents opted for concrete foundations to beat the muskeg, and the streets in town were widened. By 1920 Cochrane had evolved from a frontier town into a prosperous centre. Although it was primarily a railway settlement, farming and lumbering had assumed important roles in the economics of the area. When prospectors discovered the minerals in the district, Cochrane quickly became a major supply and shipping point.

  The town of Cochrane, located in the heart of excellent fishing and hunting country, is well-known to tourists. The popular Polar Bear Express conveys visitors on one-day train excursions in the summer, from Cochrane to the James Bay lowlands and the otherwise isolated communities of Moose Factory and Moosonee. The train operates from the end of June until Labour Day and offers the traveller a unique experience in northern sightseeing. Small planes, boats, and ski-doos can take you farther if you are keen to see more. A unique aspect to the train ride is that part of the track runs over bog land and involves a kind of “floating rail bed,” which you can actually feel in the way it rides. You can also see first-hand the way folks who live in remote areas have to travel. Tiny, isolated settlements exist along the route, where people wait beside the track; the train simply stops for them if needed.

  Looking at Cochrane another way, you could say, “It’s at the end of the road!” It is well worth visiting, because that kind of existence creates quite a different town.

  Creemore

  Once you have experienced this picturesque town, you will understand why it draws visitors from all directions. It’s a place where neighbours say hello and no one needs to honk. You feel as though you’ve stepped outside of time — the pace of life is from a bygone era. There are no high-rise buildings, no strip plazas, and no malls; Creemore has a deep kind of quiet peace.

  Creemore, in Nottawasaga Township in the County of Simcoe, is situated on the Mad River, on County Road 9, just 24 kilometres (15 miles) southeast of Collingwood. It was Senator J.R. Gowan of Barrie, at the request of a village resident, who selected a name for the village. He suggested Creemore, from the compound Gaelic word cree mohr, meaning “big heart.” He certainly got the name right. It seems that everyone in Creemore is known by their first name.

  The village itself was originally founded in the 1840s. By 1845 two early settlers, Nulty and Webster, formed a partnership and built a lumber mill and a gristmill on the Mad River. This certainly helped to promote settlement, and by 1849 Edward Webster opened the first post office. Webster had already operated a store in the settlement. G.I. Bolster worked as Webster’s clerk before eventually opening his own business and becoming the postmaster. Other early pioneer settlers included T. Tupper, J.A. McDonald, the Bowermans, and Sam Wilcox.

  It was the water power on the Mad River that attracted industries. The first carding mill in the township was operated at Creemore, and by the 1880s there were three hotels and four churches as well. The population of Creemore, by 1889, was nearing 800 residents. On November 20th of that year, a bylaw was passed to make Creemore a village.

  Creemore is quite a magical place in the spring, when area rivers rise and beckon the trout from the bay. Some say the Mad River offers the best trout fishing in this part of Ontario. Summer breezes off the spring-fed hillsides of Creemore keep the residents cool. A walking tour of the community reveals beautiful Victorian architecture and numerous shops featuring antiques, clocks, specialty tea pots, interior decorating, original artwork, trendy clothes, Victorian lingerie, eco-friendly children’s wear, hand-carved signs, a butcher, a barber, an excellent bookstore, and even a candlestick maker. There surely must be a baker here, too.

  The Hughes homestead near Creemore is well-known to the locals for “unexplained activity.” The farmhouse, built circa 1860, has been the scene of many ghostly apparitions. None of the activity has been malicious; in fact, the Hughes family has had farming assistance from what they believe to be their other-worldly predecessors on the farm; some activity seems to relate directly to a native trail running the escarpment ridge. (To read more about the Creemore hauntings, please refer to this writer’s book Haunted Ontario Revisited).

  Today Creemore has become quite famous for its beer — namely, Creemore Springs Brewery Limited. In 1987 John Wiggins established the brewery for three good reasons: the building was already owned by Wiggins, the original investors owned an artesian well in the area, and it seemed to be the natural thing to slake one’s thirst.

  When John Wiggins opened the front door of Creemore Springs Brewery on August 15, 1987, he sold out of beer in four hours. Not surprising when you hear that world beer guru Michael Jackson (not the singer) calls Creemore Springs Premium Lager the best lager produced in North America.

  At Creemore Springs they brew beer the old-fashioned way — pure and simple. They use only clear spring water, the finest malted barley, imported hops from the Czech Republic, and select yeast. The beer is brewed in small batches using an open-fired copper kettle method. In accordance with the Bavarian Purity Law of 1516, they use no additives, no preservatives, no adjuncts, no pasteurization, and no compromise.

  In 1991 the company won “gold” for the best lager at the Toronto Beer and Food festival. A year later they won it again. By 1993 Creemore Springs won a Toronto Star readers’ poll as the best micro-brewed beer in the province. That year, expansion efforts were completed, giving the brewery an annual volume of 1,200,000 litres.

  In 1995 Creemore Springs spent another summer in short supply. The company reported that eager consumers were soon learning the secret Creemore delivery routes. And self-appointed investigators indicated that consumers were spotted in the wee hours outside beer stores, waiting in ambush!

  A year later the brewery won another prestigious award: the gold medal for Pilsner Lager Category in the World Beer Championships. In November of that year, Creemore Springs released a second beer, UrBock. This seasonal phenomenon took the beer industry by storm. UrBock is now, according to Creemore Springs, “a legend to be appreciated each Christmas.”

  Creemore Springs Brewery Limited has helped to attract a considerable tourist market to the community. Their store is located on the main street and guided brewery tours are offered. Visitors can treat themselves to a taste test. Clothing with the Creemore label is also for sale in the building.

  Some old landmarks surviving in the village today are four churches built in the 1800s; the jail and the Parry house by the river, both of which date back to the 1860s; three hotels and the Casey Block, which once housed a sleigh and carriage shop and a cheese factory that is now a residential block. Local folklore has it that there is more than one ghost to be seen in the surrounding area. More relics from the past, one presumes. So, sometime when you feel like having a little surprise, a pint of prize-winning beer, a Sunday drive, perhaps, or even a good browse in the friendliest bookstore you’ll ever see, steer your car to Creemore.

  Curve Lake

  The territory known as Upper Canada was purchased by the Crown through a number of First Nations surrenders. Certain areas were set aside for continued use of Natives. As the number of European settlers increased, the Native population was increasingly confined to lands known as “Indian Reserves.”

  The Royal Proclamation of 1763 addressed First Nations’ ownership of land and by so doing confirmed that First Nations did indeed hold title to land. This necessitated the purchase of various tracts of land by the government, land that was paid for at the rate of only a few cents an acre.r />
  It was the beginning of massive immigration into Southern Ontario. Within 41 years (1781–1822), all of this land was surrendered to the British Crown; 8.5 million acres were surrendered by the Mississaugas, alone. This was land bordered by the River Thames on the west, Gananoque River to the east, Lake Simcoe to the north, and the Ottawa River to the northeast.

  In 1784 an agreement was made with the Mississauga bands for the sale of land east of the Etobicoke River and west of the Trent River for the purpose of British settlement. At the time, the Natives from the Bay of Quinte, the Rice Lake and Lindsay area, the Toronto area, and the Thames district travelled to Carrying Place for the formal exchange of land for gifts and money. Sir John Johnson, superintendent general of Indian Affairs, was present and distributed arms, ammunition, and tobacco to the Native parties.

  The lands, as they were negotiated, were known to be bordered by the Tobeka Creek (Etobicoke) on the west and the Crawford Purchase on the east, running from Lake Ontario as far back as Rice Lake; west of Rice Lake, as far back as a day’s journey, or more commonly “the distance at which a gunshot can be heard.” For this reason it became known as “The Gunshot Treaty.” Notably, the Gunshot Treaty was not ratified until the 1923 Williams Treaty, because no payment was ever made for the 1787 cession of parts of the counties of Northumberland, Durham, and York.

  During the Toronto Purchase in 1805, Chief Quenepenon bitterly complained to British officials about the treatment of Natives by early settlers. He stated, “The inhabitants (of Toronto) drive us away instead of helping us and we want to know why we are served in that manner. Colonel Butler told us the farmers would help us, but instead of doing so, when we encamp on the shore, they drive us off and shoot our dogs and never give us any assistance as was promised to our chiefs.