Buried in the Sky: The Extraordinary Story of the Sherpa Climbers on K2's Deadliest Day

by Zuckerman, Peter

  224 “focused on the rescues” Pemba Gyalje interview with Padoan, Nick Ryan, and Pat Falvey at Pemba’s home in Kathmandu, January 2009.

  224 rescues involved Western lives Freddie Wilkinson was a notable exception to the media focus on Westerners. By November 2008, Wilkinson had broken the story, investigating and writing the first article about Chhiring’s rescue of Pasang. See “Heroes in Fine Print,” The Huffington Post, November 12, 2008. Wilkinson followed the article with a longer piece: “Perfect Chaos,” Rock and Ice, December 2008. He also wrote the first book about the tragedy from the Sherpa perspective: One Mountain Thousand Summits (New York: New American Library, 2010).

  226 little else but listen That is only true of this particular meeting. Nazir continued to do a great deal for the families. He coordinated a fundraising effort for the support of the families, contributing his own money, and ensured that they were treated fairly by insurance companies.

  Selected Bibliography

  BOOKS

  Biddulph, John. Tribes of the Hindoo Koosh. Calcutta: Superintendent of Government Printing, 1880.

  Bonatti, Walter. The Mountains of My Life. New York: Modern Library, 2001.

  Bowley, Graham. No Way Down: Life and Death on K2. New York: HarperCollins, 2010.

  Clark, John. Hunza: Lost Kingdom of the Himalayas. New York: Funk & Wagnalls, 1956.

  Confortola, Marco. Giorni di Ghiaccio. Milan: Baldini Castoldi Dalai Editore, 2009.

  Curran, Jim. K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1995.

  Douglas, Ed. Tenzing: Hero of Everest. Washington, DC: National Geographic, 2003.

  French, Patrick. Younghusband: The Last Great Imperial Adventurer. Hammersmith: HarperCollins UK, 2004.

  Gregson, Jonathan. Massacre at the Palace: The Doomed Royal Dynasty of Nepal. New York: Talk Miramax, 2002.

  Hopkirk, Peter. The Great Game: On Secret Service in High Asia. London: John Murray, 1990.

  Houston, Charles S., and Robert H. Bates. K2, The Savage Mountain. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1954.

  Hunt, John. The Ascent of Everest. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1953.

  Isserman, Maurice, and Stewart Weaver. Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2010.

  Jordan, Jennifer. The Last Man on the Mountain: The Death of an American Adventurer on K2. New York: W. W. Norton, 2010.

  Kauffman, Andrew J., and William L. Putnam. K2: The 1939 Tragedy. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 1992.

  Knight, E. F. Where Three Empires Meet. London: Longmans, Green, 1918.

  Lacedelli, Lino, and Giovanni Cenacchi. K2: Il prezzo della conquista. Milan: Mondadori, 2004.

  Leitner, Gottlieb. The Hunza and Nagyr Handbook. Calcutta: Superintendent of Government Printing, 1889.

  Norgay, Jamling Tenzing (with Broughton Coburn). Touching My Father’s Soul: A Sherpa’s Journey to the Top of Everest. San Francisco: Harper San Francisco, 2001.

  Norgay, Tenzing (with James Ramsey Ullman). Tiger of the Snows: The Autobiography of Tenzing of Everest. New York: Putnam, 1955.

  Ortner, Sherry B. Sherpas Through Their Rituals. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 1978.

  ———. Life and Death on Mount Everest: Sherpas and Himalayan Mountaineering. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1999.

  Peissel, Michel. The Ants’ Gold. New York: HarperCollins, 1984.

  Schomberg, R. C. F. Between the Oxus and the Indus. Lahore: al-Biruni, 1935.

  Skog, Cecilie. Og De Tre Polene. Stavanger, Norway: Wigestrand, 2006.

  Tenderini, Mirella, and Michael Shandrick. The Duke of the Abruzzi: An Explorer’s Life. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 1997.

  Tenzing, Tashi. Tenzing Norgay and the Sherpas of Everest. New York: Ragged Mountain Press, 2001.

  van Rooijen, Wilco. Overleven op de K2. National Geographic, 2009. (Published in English as Surviving K2. Diemen, Netherlands: G+J Publishing, 2010.)

  Viesturs, Ed, and David Roberts. K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain. New York: Broadway Books, 2009.

  Webster, Ed. Snow in the Kingdom: My Storm Years on Everest. Eldorado Springs, CO: Mountain Imagery, 2000.

  Wilkinson, Freddie. One Mountain Thousand Summits: The Untold Story of Tragedy and True Heroism on K2. New York: New American Library, 2010.

  Younghusband, Francis. The Heart of a Continent. London: John Murray, 1896.

  ———. Wonders of the Himalaya. London: John Murray, 1924.

  PERIODICALS

  DeBenedetti, Christian. “The Savior and the Storm on K2,” National Geographic Adventure (December 2008/January 2009).

  Kodas, Michael. “A Few False Moves,” Outside (September 2008).

  Power, Matthew. “K2: The Killing Peak,” Men’s Journal (November 2008).

  Sabir, Nazir. “K2: A Letter from Nazir Sabir,” The Alpinist (August 2008).

  Wilkinson, Freddie. “Perfect Chaos,” Rock and Ice (December 2008).

  FILMS

  Disaster on K2 (The Discovery Channel, March 2009).

  Hillary and Tenzing: Climbing to the Roof of the World (PBS, 1996).

  K2: A Cry from the Top of the World (Mastiff AB, Stockholm, Sweden, 2010).

  Murder Most Royal (BBC Panorama, 2002).

  Index

  Page numbers in italics refer to maps.

  Ab Maas, 138, 250n

  Abruzzi, Duke of the (Luigi Amedeo Giuseppe Maria Ferdinando Francesco di Savoia-Aosta), 32–33

  Abruzzi route, 119, 129–36, 142

  Camp 1 of, 120, 121, 135, 250n

  Camp 2 of, 120, 121, 131–34, 136, 138–39, 250n

  Camp 3 of, 120, 121, 132, 135, 144, 250n

  description of, 121

  on maps, 120, 121

  Abruzzi Spur, 33, 45

  acclimatization, 115–17

  drugs and, 127, 128

  Advanced Base Camp, of Everest, 44

  Afghanistan, xiv, 10, 78

  Aga Khan, fifty-first anniversary of coronation of, 110–11

  airlifts, emergency, 96, 101, 109, 113, 211

  cost of, 210, 216, 256n

  air pockets, 201, 202

  air pressure, 116, 130

  Aishwarya, Queen of Nepal, 50–51, 242n, 243n

  Ajak, 56

  Ajak Bhote language, 56, 122

  Alaska, 108–9, 196

  Alexander the Great, 79, 83, 247n

  Ali, Didar, 214

  Ali, Nadir, 106, 110

  memorial plates and, 209–10

  in rescue of Shaheen, 120, 133–36, 138–40, 207

  Wilco’s location and, 207–8, 256n

  Ali, Nisar, 209–10

  Ali, Rehmat, 96

  Ali, Sabir, 123, 139

  Ali, Zaman, 100

  Al Jazeera, 107

  Allah, 79, 97, 98, 110, 126, 134

  Nadir’s praying to, 135, 139, 140

  Alpha Insurance, 100, 218, 257n

  Alpine Club, Pakistani, 108, 218

  alpine-style climbing, 127, 128

  Al-Qaeda, 107–8

  altitude adjustment, see acclimatization

  altitude illness, 30, 31

  alveoli, 130

  Aman, Ashraf, 219

  Aman, Merza, 214

  American K2 International Expedition, 1–7, 45–47, 102–6, 112–14, 120, 122, 183

  see also K2, 2008 disaster on

  amnesty, 16

  Amnesty International, 53, 243n

  amputations, of Marco, 222, 223

  Amundsen, Roald, 38

  anchor point, 196

  anchors, 148, 167, 194, 196

  Andes, 65

  anemia, 65

  animals:

  dormouse, 77

  gold-digging ants, 79, 247n

  horses, 82

  slaughter of, 69, 106, 110, 245n

  snow leopards, 15, 86

  yaks, 69, 71, 80–81, 172

  Annapurna, 59–60, 228


  Antarctica, 222, 257n

  anthropologists, 14, 55, 246n

  antibiotics, 132, 139

  ants, gold-digging, 79, 247n

  apocalypse, 15, 20–21

  apricots, 84, 86

  Archimedes (barge), 138, 207

  arteries, 117, 163

  Arun region, 10

  see also Upper Arun Valley

  Ascending Path guide service, 196

  Asia (cruise ship), 40

  Askari Aviation, 101, 210, 218–19, 256n

  Askole, 78, 94, 96, 97, 213

  asphyxiation, 201–2

  assimilation, 66, 68, 76

  Associated Press, 215

  astrologers, royal, 52

  A-Team, 39–41

  Austrian Embassy, 85

  Austrians, 39, 238n

  autographs, 75

  avalanches, 35, 104, 125, 187, 188, 194, 198–205, 219

  air pockets and, 201, 202

  in Bottleneck, 1–5, 162

  camps and, 101, 131

  description of, 199, 200

  Fearless Five and, 96

  flow speed of, 199–200

  forms of, 199

  Gilkey and, 38

  Jehan and, 88, 109

  Pasang’s dream of, 56

  Pasang’s fear of, 171–72

  prediction of, 199

  of rock, 95

  Rolf killed by, 162, 168–69

  triggering, 129, 130, 199

  axes, see ice axes

  Aymara, 65

  bacterial gastroenteritus, 131–32

  Bae, Rolf, 114, 115, 126, 149, 159, 166

  death of, 5, 162, 168–69, 222

  Baig, Asam, 225–26

  Baig, Haji, 85

  Baig, Jehan, 78, 88–89, 90, 109, 126

  fall and death of, 147, 152–54, 213–14, 225–26

  insurance of, 218, 257n

  weather prediction and, 118, 119, 136, 137

  Baig, Khanda, 77, 87

  Baig, Nazib, 154, 214, 225, 226

  Baig, Shaheen, 77–79, 87–88, 144

  Al-Qaeda bombing and, 107, 108

  blaming of, 144–45, 218

  as climbing instructor, 78, 88

  illness and rescue of, 120, 131–36, 138–40, 144–45, 207, 213, 218

  K2 deaths and, 213–14

  mountaineering quit by, 226

  in Serbian K2 Expedition, 86, 90, 107–12, 115, 122, 123, 129, 131–36, 138–40, 144–45, 207, 218

  shaving of, 87

  Baig, Zehan, 226

  Balti language, 29, 99, 122, 239n, 249n

  Balti milk tea, 131

  Baltis, 29, 147

  Baltit, 82, 85

  Baltit Fort, 81, 84, 85

  Baltoro Glacier, 78, 97, 98, 158, 213, 214

  Bannon, Banjo, 112

  Barclays Capital, 216

  barley, 86, 155, 237n

  Bates, Bob, 37

  batteries, 188, 193, 208

  Bauer, Paul, 72

  Baz, M. Bashir, 101, 218–19

  Beall, Cynthia, 244n

  Beatles, 31

  Beding, 10, 12–14, 17–20, 23, 26, 27, 172

  Chhiring’s childhood in, 17–18

  chorten of, 12

  clans in, 68

  description of, 13

  Gauri Shankar summits seen from, 238n

  German tale in, 19

  getting to, 12

  mortality rate in, 238n

  population of, 26, 239n

  power of money in, 25

  “being washing-machined,” 200

  Bengal, Bay of, 31

  beyuls (sacred valleys), 14, 16, 237n

  Bhote, 56–57, 67–70, 147

  discrimination against, 57, 63, 68, 71–72

  foreigner descriptions of, 69–70

  genetics and, 164

  Sherpa compared with, 57, 68–70, 106

  Tenzing’s Everest climb and, 75–76

  Bhote, Big Pasang, 61–62, 125, 143, 185–88, 228, 255n

  death of, 162, 200, 203, 205, 209, 221, 255n

  earnings of, 221

  Jumik found by, 198

  Marco offered oxygen by, 194

  Marco’s offering of chocolate to, 194, 198, 254n

  Bhote, Dawa Sangmu, 209, 216, 224

  Bhote, Jen Jen, 209, 216, 223, 224

  Bhote, Jumik, 61, 105, 122, 125, 159, 179, 187–88, 223

  Big Pasang’s encountering of, 198

  in Bottleneck, 148

  death of, 162, 200, 203, 205, 209, 221, 224, 255n

  del Missier’s friendship with, 216

  help promised to, 190, 254n

  linguistic confusion and, 122, 123

  and Pemba Jeba’s fears about films, 224

  photos of, 196, 200, 205, 254n

  rope system created by, 162, 164–65

  in Shoulder, 144, 145

  son’s birth and, 209, 216

  tangled in ropes and tied to Korean clients, 162, 167–68, 189–90, 193–98, 252n, 254n, 255n

  Bhote, Ngawang, 61, 104, 106, 209

  Bhote, Pemba Jeba, 221, 224

  Bhote, Phurbu Ridar, 56, 57, 58, 61, 63

  Bhote, Tsering, 143, 185–88, 194, 195, 198, 255n

  in avalanche, 202–3

  Marco’s offering of chocolate to, 194, 198, 254n

  Pasang Lama’s meeting of, 203

  Bhoteni, Gamu, 223, 228

  Bhoteni, Lahmu (Pasang Lama’s cousin; Big Pasang’s wife), 62, 69, 220–21

  Bhoteni, Phurbu Chejik, 57, 58, 60, 125

  Bhotias (Tibetans), 68, 75, 76, 246n

  bhuti, 124–25, 172, 178

  Biange, 98

  bicarbonate ions, 116

  binoculars, 146, 207

  bin Qasim, Muhammad, 79

  birds, 103

  Birendra Bir Bikram Shah, King of Nepal, 49–51, 53

  Bite, Hoselito, 108, 120

  at Camp 2, 133–34, 136

  at Camp 3, 137–38, 140–41

  climbing problems of, 133–34, 138

  daughter’s photo carried by, 125

  destruction of tent of, 120, 140–41

  Dren’s fall and, 149, 251n

  sardines spilled by, 133

  Wilco’s problems with, 133–34, 137–38, 141, 207

  Bite, Maya, 125, 134

  “black hash,” 242n

  Black Pyramid, 121, 132

  blasphemy, 19

  blogs, 96, 111, 127, 216

  blood, 168, 182, 205

  acute vasospasm and, 163, 164

  circulation of, 65

  red cells, 65, 116–17, 244n

  blood clots, 37, 65, 116–17, 210

  blood pressure, 117, 194

  blood sacrifice/human flesh, 15, 16, 33, 69, 245n

  blood vessels, leaking of, 194

  body parts, insuring of, 249n

  body remains, Hugues and, 109–11, 249n

  body temperature, 182, 188

  Bonatti, Walter, 39–40, 223, 241n

  Booth, C. P., 238n

  boots, boot tracks, 167, 169, 170, 186

  Jumik’s loss of, 193, 196

  Marco’s sighting of, 194, 254n

  too small, 39, 241n

  Borat (film), 114, 115

  Bottleneck, 34, 40

  as Death Throat, 146

  delay in, 147, 147

  eclipse in, 154

  on maps, 120, 147, 162

  ropes severed in, 162

  2008 disaster and, 1–7, 78, 121, 122, 132, 146–52, 147, 155, 156, 157, 164, 166–78, 180, 187, 190, 194, 195, 198, 204, 237n, 252n

  Wiessner in, 34

  Boudhanath stupa, 22, 104, 105

  brain, 116, 117, 163, 170, 182

  asphyxiation and, 201, 202

  swelling of, 194

  brain damage, 64, 118

  Braldu River, 78, 97, 98

  brand recognition, 160

  bribery, 83–84

  “Bride, the,” 79

  bride abduction, 69

  British expeditions:


  to Everest, 17, 70–75, 245n

  to Gauri Shankar, 19

  British Gurkha Academy, 57

  Broad Peak, see K3

  Brokeback Mountain (film), 99

  Buddha, 12, 13, 79

  Buddhism, Buddhists, 29, 56, 98, 145, 238n

  animal slaughter and, 69, 245n

  conversion to, 14–16

  cremation and, 103

  in Hunza, 79

  meat eating of, 245n

  pujas and, 104, 105, 115

  as refugees, 14, 22

  sky burials and, 103, 249n

  sonam and, 174

  Buhl, Hermann, 39, 85

  bus travel, 57, 214, 220

  cameras, 143, 151, 159, 166, 167, 180, 195, 213

  campylobacteriosis, 131

  capillaries, 117

  caravan raids, 81, 82, 83

  carbon dioxide, 130

  carbon monoxide, 118

  cartoons, Islam satirized in, 107–8

  Caucasians, Sherpa compared with, 64–65

  celebrities, 249n

  Central Asia, 66

  see also specific places

  central nervous system, 202

  cerebral edema, 117, 163, 184, 211

  Cesen route, 112, 119, 121, 131, 136–39, 142, 190, 207, 250n

  Camp 1 of, 120, 121, 250n

  Camp 2 of, 120, 121, 133–34, 136, 143, 250n

  Camp 3 of, 120, 121, 136, 137–38, 140–41, 207, 208, 250n, 253n, 256n

  description of, 121

  Cha-chu, 245n

  Chamonix, 103, 118, 136, 137

  charms, 124–25, 172

  chicken, Bumble Bee, 126

  childbirth, 80

  death in, 18, 44, 238n

  China, 29, 158, 165, 170, 189

  eclipse in, 251n

  on maps, xiv, 10, 78, 94

  Safdar’s exile in, 84

  sky burial in, 103

  Tibet invaded by, 22, 76

  Xinjiang in, 78, 79, 80–81, 94

  chocolate, 74, 133, 135, 194, 198, 204, 254n

  Chogo Lungma Glacier, 16, 238n

  Chogori, see K2

  cholesterol, 49, 242n

  Chopi Drinsangma, 16

  chorten (sacred mound), 104, 105–6, 210

  Cipro, 132

  civil war, in Nepal, 48, 52–54, 58, 60, 243n

  clans, 66–70, 103, 244n, 245n

  climbing community, high school compared with, 111–12

  climbing industry, 19–20

  Kathmandu as base for, 22

  clothing, 17, 26, 61, 74, 99, 127, 160

  Cold Avenger face masks, 160

  Colorado, 45–47

  coma, 51, 52, 197

  Combined Military Hospital, 113, 215

  commerce, Maoists and, 61

  Communists, in Nepal, 53–54

  Compagnoni, Achille, 39–41, 155, 241n

  compass, 164

  Compazine, 132

  Concordia, 97, 98, 158