ComPETability: Solving Behavior Problems In Your Multi-Cat Household

by Shojai, Amy

  · After they go in without hesitation, shut the door for one second. Open it before they finish eating the treat or playing so they know the door always opens and won’t trap them inside.

  · After several sessions, instead of a treat, toss in a puzzle toy stuffed with Philly cream cheese or other tasty treats. Shut the door while they snack. Pets should only get this bonanza treat when in the room with the door shut.

  · After week or so, leave Sheba for longer periods with puzzle treats. Once they really enjoy the game, walk away for 30 seconds. Come back before they finish so you can open door and take the toy away. That way they learn they ONLY gets the toy/treat when you aren’t there, and learn that good things happen only when you leave and the door shuts.

  · Continue to extend time alone from 30 seconds, to a minute, and so on. Once you reach five minutes, you can jump to 30 minutes pretty easily. From there, extending time to an hour and then two hours goes pretty quickly. Use the same area or different ones for your various cats, whatever works best. If pets are happier confined together, do so—just provide enough treat/toys for everyone so there’s no squabbling.

  Crate Expectations

  All cats need to travel at some point, if only to and from the veterinarian, and crate training simplifies the process. There’s nothing more dangerous than a loose cat in the car—unless it’s more than one! They can get under your brake pedal, distract the driver, and in the worst situation, become furry projectiles if you have an accident. Besides moving, crates can also be used to retrain and/or segregate cats if they aggress toward each other, or to provide safe havens for scared pets.

  Crates and carriers come in different sizes and up to two small adult pets or three kittens that get along may be able to share facilities. Larger pets and those with “prickly” personalities do best with individual accommodations. You can find soft-sided zipper bags, hard carriers, and suitcase-like travelers with rollers. Cat show enthusiasts stack carriers on wheeled “trollies” and tow multiple pets from cars to the show hall, and back again.

  Train your cats to ride happily in a crate or carrier by making it appealing. Cats are especially reluctant to accept change so go slowly and begin training at least four to six weeks before you must move them. You can train multiple pets at a time as long as you have enough crates to go around—otherwise, teach the lessons one on one. Once one claims the first carrier, the rest may become anxious to get in on the fun.

  · Rub the carrier inside with catnip or toss in a catnip toy to encourage feline exploration.

  · Spray a bit of Feliway on a blanket or towel, and leave inside the carrier for a kitty bed.

  · Toss in a Ping Pong ball to create a kitty playground. Play games with your cat and the crate every evening for a week, without shutting the door.

  · Make the crate a part of the furniture, rather than a scary and strange object that only appears to herald a vet visit. Take the door off or unzip the opening, and set the carrier on the floor in the living room.

  · Leave tasty treats inside for the cat to find, to turn the crate into a treat dispenser.

  · After Sheba goes in without hesitation, shut the door for one second, then open as the pet finishes eating the treat. That tells her the door always opens and won’t trap her inside.

  · After several sessions, instead of a treat, toss in a puzzle toy stuffed with tuna, Philly cream cheese or catnip toy. Shut door while the pet snacks. Make sure they only get this special bonanza treat when in the carrier with the door shut.

  · After a week where Sheba begins to enjoy the treat/crate sessions, start increasing the time spent inside. Carry the crate around the house before opening the door for her to come out.

  · Try stuffing the kitty puzzle toy with goodies, and tie it inside the crate, then close the door with the pet outside. Wait until the cat begs to get in, and then open the door. The pet must choose either to chew the treat inside the crate, or not at all. Most cats quickly learn that the crate is fun.

  · Eventually, carry the crated cat into the car, and take short rides before returning home and letting her out. Each pet will have a different learning curve—some do better if they see each other, while others remain calmer if a cover shields the view.

  PART TWO: COMMON PROBLEMS AND PRACTICAL SOLUTIONS

  Chapter 4: CAT-EGORICAL AGGRESSION

  In multi-cat homes, cats usually aggress toward other cats and rarely toward owners. Signs include outright attacks to urine spraying, or staring at another cat until he moves. Adult cats normally aggress toward strange animals that trespass on their territory, which makes new cat introductions a challenge for owners. There are several categories of feline aggression, and more than one can happen concurrently. The more kinds the cat expresses, the poorer becomes the prognosis for improvement.

  Cats bluff incredibly well and fur rarely flies. Dominance displays can be so subtle that you may never know any controversy took place. Almost all types have a fear or anxiety component. This holds true especially during pet introductions or in multiple cat households where dynamics often shift with age, health status, and stress levels.

  Oftentimes, people accidentally teach aggression when they reward bad behavior, by allowing the cat to get his way. For instance, if they cut short the grooming when the cat hisses, Sheba subsequently “generalizes” the lesson and uses a hiss or bite to control other interactions. Owners who act anxious or threatening in the cat’s presence further aggravate feline aggression.

  Recognizing potential triggers and understanding the warning signs of aggression will help you to avoid or diffuse aggression. Common situations during which your cat may react with aggression include:

  · When feeling pain

  · When a deaf or blind cat is startled

  · When approached/disturbed while resting

  · When overcrowded by too many cats for the space

  · When protecting resources (bed, territory, kittens)

  · When physically and/or verbally disciplined

  · When forced to make prolonged eye contact

  · When experiencing unwelcome handling (being held, petted, lifted)

  · When restrained, or forced into unwelcome position

  · When hearing certain music frequencies or high pitched sounds (i.e., baby crying, violin playing)

  WHEN THE FUR FLIES: CALCULATING RISK

  Most cats learn early on how to wrangle without physically hurting each other. Kitties have exquisite control of their teeth and claws, and know how to pull punches to keep damage to a minimum. They posture, show teeth and swipe claws near (but not in contact with) the target, rather than biting. This allows them to resolve differences without hurting each other.

  Thunder and fury with no blood spilled indicates they have excellent bite inhibition but few fights resulting in lots of damage indicate that at least one of the cats either has very poor inhibitions, or seriously wants to kill the other cat. Cats that hate each other and draw blood during fights have an extremely poor prognosis.

  Kittens develop good manners through interaction with other kittens and Mom-cat’s discipline. Too often, though, kittens go to new homes before they’ve learned these important lessons and you’ll need to teach them.

  COMFORT ZONE: BOTTLED FRIENDSHIP

  Dr. Patrick Pageat, a researcher in the field of pheromones, discovered five “fractions” of the feline cheek pheromone. Three of these fractions have been identified: F2 communicates information about sexual behavior, and the F3 fraction marks the physical environment and has been marketed as the product Feliway.

  “The F4 is a collection of specific molecules common to all cats, that says friend,” says Dr. Daniel Mills, a researcher conducting trials on new pheromone products. “It’s used to identify friend from foe, so they don’t shoot down their own plane,” he says. Dr. Pageat has created an analogue of the F4 fraction, marketed as Felifriend, useful in countering cat-on-cat aggression and soothing new cat introductions. The product communica
tes to all the cats that they already know the individual, have a good relationship, and don’t need to fight.

  “A problem has been that F4 smells like a very old cheese,” says Dr. Pageat. “Even for a French guy, a very strong odor. Our first product was not so comfortable for humans.” The new version of Felifriend, already marketed overseas, should be available in the United States in the near future and help enormously with cat-on-cat aggression.

  TEACHING LIMITS

  Cats use mouths and paws to explore their world. You can’t stop it, nor should you try. Bite inhibition teaches Kitty to inhibit the force of the bite, and keep claws unfurled, by explaining to her in terms she understands that teeth and claws hurt. She can still make an emphatic point bopping another cat (or human) with a soft paw. Begin training as soon as you get your kitten or cat. A well-socialized adult cat teaches the best lessons to kittens, but you can help, with these tips.

  · Allowing cats to play with your hands, fingers or toes encourages biting and may backfire.

  · Instead offer a legal toy for the cat to bite and bunny kick.

  · Gently praise Sheba for soft paws (claws withheld) or a soft mouth, saying, “Good paws, good mouth!”

  · HISS! if the claws come out or the mouthing hurts, just as another cat or kitten would to stop the games.

  · If she bites and won’t let go, push your hand/arm IN toward the bite to prompt Sheba to release you. Pulling away from the bite stimulates her to bite even more.

  · Treat your clothing as an extension of skin and make it off limits, or the kitten won’t learn the difference between clawing jeans and nailing your bare legs.

  · If the cat or kitten bites or claws during play, and doesn’t react to a HISS, instead use a very short, loud, high-pitched EEEK! Warn the rest of your family before doing this, though, so they won’t call for help.

  · Physical punishment only makes cats more determined to fight back and protect themselves, but they often understand the emotion of hurt feelings. Tell Sheba, “You hurt me,” with as much angst and tears as you can muster.

  · Very friendly cats understand a “time out.” If Sheba can’t contain her teeth and claws, send her into a room alone for five minutes to tell her she’s exceeded the proper bounds.

  VET ALERT! THYROID DISEASE

  Changes in a cat’s thyroid hormone production can prompt changes in behavior, especially aggression. Dr. Beaver characterizes hyperthyroid aggression as “nasty” and hypothyroid aggressive cats as “grumpy.” A routine blood test screening for thyroid function, especially in middle aged to older cats, diagnoses this treatable condition.

  COMBAT INTERVENTION

  Screaming felines facing off for battle keeps the faint at heart—and savvy owners—a safe distance away. In fact, you likely will get bitten by physically interceding. Patricia McConnell, Ph.D, a certified applied animal behaviorist, also warns against shouting or yelling. “That can escalate the arousal and make it worse,” she says. Most caterwauling is for show, though, and can be headed off before the teeth and claws engage.

  · Interrupt the hissing with a favorite toy, such as a fishing pole lure or flashlight beam. Don’t wait until the cats fight. The earlier you intervene, the quicker the cats will chill. Choose toys that keep you a safe distance away.

  · A loud noise like an air horn or hiss of aerosol spray may work to startle the combatants apart.

  · When noise doesn’t stop them, soaking with water usually halts the fight. It doesn’t take much. Toss half a glass of ice-cold water at them, aiming for their bodies and avoiding the face and eyes.

  · If the fight happens in the house and you can’t throw water, just toss a thick blanket over top of both cats. That usually separates the pair.

  · Wrap up the aggressor cat in the blanket to protect yourself, and bundle him into a room alone for a time out. It takes cats 24 to 48 hours to settle down after arousal. Just the sight of each other can start the fight all over again.

  · Catfights may trigger other cats to join in, or fight among themselves. If you have more than a pair, be sure all the cats seem calm. If not, separate each cat into a different room or crate until all have settled.

  CAT BASHING

  Any two cats can develop a dislike for each other, but most intercat aggression involves intact same-gender cats and worsens during mating season. Neutering before 12 months decreases or prevents up to 90 percent of cat-on-cat aggression. Cats typically work out their place in the hierarchy through posturing without injury to either party. The lowest ranking cat may be targeted, and picked on by the other felines. Acting like a victim can bring out the bully in the dominant feline and prompt additional aggression. Never allow cats to “fight it out” as that rarely settles conflicts but makes matters worse.

  Cat-on-cat fights can result from any other kind of aggression. Increased conflicts arise due to changes in the social group as people or animals become part of household or leave the family group. Major changes to environment, such as moving, or subtle changes such as where cats sleep, eat, perch, and eliminate can cause the fur to fly. Cats reach social maturity at 2 to 4 years of age when many cats first challenge others for status.

  Not enough space predisposes cats to territorial disputes. Cats mark property with cheek rubs, patrolling, and urine marking. Some diabolical felines lure others into their territory and then “discipline” the other cat for trespassing. Feline territorial aggression is notoriously hard to correct, and marking behavior is a hallmark of potential aggression. Outdoor cats are more aggressive on their home turf and the cat closest to home usually wins the dispute. When all tactics have failed to stop two indoor cats from fighting, then ultimately one cat may need to be placed in a new home or permanently segregated from the other in another part of the house.

  When trying to establish authority, cats employ a variety of signals to elevate their status in the eyes of the other felines. They challenge each other with stares, forward-facing body position, hisses and growls, mounting behavior and nape bites, or blocking access to food, play, or attention. Some dominant cats use “power grooming” behavior—energetically licking the other cat—to make her move away. Often, older or weaker cats are victimized and picked on by healthier felines. Manage with behavior modification, counter-conditioning, and sometimes drug therapy. The tips below can help ease the strain and in some instances resolve intercat aggression.

  · Increase the territorial space to reduce the urge to wrangle by providing sufficient climbing, hiding, and perching areas.

  · Electronic cat doors that can only be opened by the collared victim cat will allow her to access the entire home yet retreat to a safe area the aggressor can’t follow. These pet doors open in response to the magnetic “key” inside the collar. Look for “keyed” pet doors at pet products stores or on the Internet.

  · Don’t reward undesirable behavior by offering the aggressive cat food or attention to calm down. If you can catch Sheba before she gets hissy, you can redirect her behavior with an interactive toy, such as a flashlight beam, to lure her into play in another direction. That can also help her associate good things with the other cat.

  · If the toy doesn’t work, interrupt with an aerosol hiss, and then reinforce the desirable response—acting calm—by offering a treat, toy or attention.

  · As long as the cats act aggressively toward each other, treat them as though introducing the cats for the first time. However, with reintroductions it’s best to give the victim cat the choice location of the house, and sequester the bully cat in the isolation room.

  · If you see no significant improvement within a week, talk with your veterinary behaviorist to see if drug therapy may be helpful. Drugs may help control the aggressive behavior and decrease the defensive posturing and vocalizing of the threatened cat. You’ll still need to provide the cats with a desensitization and counter-conditioning program, but drugs may help training work more effectively.

  · Once the signs of aggression, anxie
ty, and/or hyper-vigilance fade, desensitization and counter conditioning can begin. Gradually expose the cats to each other in very controlled situations. Begin with the cats in carriers, or controlled with a harness and leash, at opposite ends of your largest room or longest hallway.

  · During each session feed cats tasty foods or engage in play. This helps both cats learn to associate each other with fun, positive rewards.

  · Interrupt unacceptable behavior by the aggressor cat with a squirt of compressed air or water gun. Toss small treats to reinforce “good” behavior. Counter conditioning can take months and require much patience and time.

  · Once cats have learned to tolerate each other and are allowed to freely roam, create at least two feeding stations and two bathroom locations. Locate them so cats won’t be trapped or surprised when using either.

  SCAREDY CATS

  Fear is the most common reason for feline aggression. Influenced by heredity and shyness, some cats aggressing every time they become frightened. Punishment and poor socialization can also cause fear aggression, and will make it worse. Cats may develop fear of people, places, other cats, certain noises, or even odors, and react with aggression, making it difficult for them to enjoy their lives and hard for you to enjoy their company.

  Cats often learn to associate one scary experience—car ride to the vet—with all future car rides. A single “bad” episode with a longtime feline friend can turn the relationship sour. Scared cats quickly learn that aggressive behavior makes the scary “thing” go away, and use it repeatedly to warn off strangers, for example.

  Affected cats may turn from offense to defense and back again during the arousal. They display a mix of defensive body signals (ears flattened sideways, tail tucked, crouching, and leaning away) and aggressive signals (fluffed fur, showing teeth, hissing, growling, swatting, biting, and scratching). Usually the pupils of their eyes dilate wide, unrelated to the amount of light present. If the cat’s aggression is mild and you can keep Sheba away from triggers, no other treatment may be necessary. These tips can help.