ComPETability: Solving Behavior Problems In Your Multi-Cat Household

by Shojai, Amy

  Classic signs include urinating and defecating on owner-scented objects, and some cats cry and become upset as you prepare to leave while others don’t seem to notice your departure, but “act out” once left alone. Even if only one of your cats reacts to your absences with poor behaviors, separation anxiety affects the entire feline family because hit-or-miss bathroom behaviors upset the status quo. Having other buddy cats may help the lonely feline feel less upset, but usually the anxious cat needs you to feel happy again and a furry substitute won’t do. Use behavior modification to help Sheba feel better.

  · Most problem behaviors take place within twenty minutes after you leave, and how long you are gone doesn’t seem to matter. Distract Sheba during this critical period so she won’t dirty your bed by asking another family member to play interactive games with a fishing pole toy.

  · About 1/3rd of cats react strongly, another 1/3rd react mildly, and the last 1/3rd don’t react at all to catnip. If your feline goes bonkers for this harmless herb, leave a catnip treat to keep her happy when you leave. Food oriented cats can be distracted with a food-puzzle toy stuffed with a favorite treat.

  · Cats that have been outside and seen the real thing often don’t react, but homebody indoor-only cats enjoy watching videos of fluttering birds, squirrels and other critters. There are a number of these videos available, including the original called “Video Catnip.”

  · Cats pay attention to their surroundings, so playing familiar music that they associate with your presence can help ease the pain of you being gone. Specialized tunes such as Pet Melodies include nature sounds and Theta brain wave frequencies designed to calm pets.

  · Desensitize your cats to the presence of the overnight bag by leaving it out all the time, so Sheba won’t get upset when she sees you pack. Toss a catnip mouse inside the suitcase, and turn it into a kitty playground to help her identify the suitcase with positives, rather than your absence.

  · Use behavior modification techniques so the triggers lose their power. Pick up the car keys 50 times a day, and then set them down. Carry your purse over your arm for an hour or more. When you repeat cues often enough, Sheba will stop caring about them and will remain calm when you do leave.

  · Fake your departure by opening the door and going in and out twenty or more times in a row until Sheba ignores you altogether. Then extend your “outside” time to one minute, three minutes, five minutes and so on before returning inside. This gradual increase in absence helps build the cat’s tolerance.

  Chapter 7. SUPPERTIME

  Cats live longer these days because of properly prepared commercial foods, but not all of these work for every cat. Commercial foods fit the needs of broad categories of cats, including growth for kittens, maintenance for adult cats, and a “senior” category for aging kitties. As kittens and cats mature, they must transition to the food that best fits their particular life stage.

  Some cats may require a “therapeutic” diet, such as for kidney disease or weight loss/control, dispensed by prescription from the veterinarian. Appetite is a barometer of your cat’s health. A sudden increased appetite, for example, may indicate hyperthyroid disease while a loss of appetite may point to intestinal blockage or any of a number of other physical or emotional health issues.

  SNUBBING THE BOWL

  Anorexia—refusing to eat—or a reduced appetite over the long term can be deadly. A wide range of health challenges can make Sheba finicky, and the most common—upper respiratory infection—is so contagious that multiple cats can get sick at the same time. Cats won’t eat if their noses stop up and they can’t smell their food.

  Territorial issues between cats also impact the feline appetite. Stressful interactions make shy cats fearful so they avoid communal dining and miss out on the goodies. Dominant cats can guard the feeding station, so that even when kibble remains in the bowl, the intimidated felines don’t dare approach.

  Cats sometimes go through the motions of covering food they way they cover waste in the litter box. They scratch the floor next to the food dish over and over again. This behavior can mean one of two things. Cats sometimes cover up rejected food in the same way they bury urine or feces. But other times, the scratching and covering may simply be caching behavior. Feral cats have occasionally been observed retrieving uneaten food that's been covered up.

  When you feed all the cats free choice (from a single ever-full bowl) it can be hard to tell which cats have problems. The smallest or youngest cats in the home may not be able to eat all they need at one meal, especially if they must compete with a glutton who gobbles up everything ahead of them.

  Pay attention to how much EACH cat eats, if they show up for dinner or hide, and whether they feel “bony” under all that fur. Appetite loss goes beyond a finicky attitude. There are a number of techniques you can use to prompt Kitty’s appetite to return.

  · Offer soft foods cats with mouth pain can eat, until a veterinary dentist can be seen. Up to 75 percent of all cats develop some form of dental disease by the time they reach two years old.

  · Use a warm wet cloth to clean off gummy noses so sick cats can smell their food.

  · Create a steamy room to aid the stuffy cats’ breathing. Moist heat helps open up the clogged nose.

  · Warm up leftover canned food in the microwave to mouse/prey body temperature. Heating helps unlock odors and makes food more pungent and more appealing.

  · Moisten dry kibble with warm water or low-fat no-salt chicken broth to spark your cats’ appetite.

  · Offer a top dressing of soft foods or meat baby food on the cat’s regular diet. Canned and gourmet diets include more fat and flavor enhancers that tempt the reluctant eater, and human baby foods also appeal to sick cats. Avoid foods that contain onion, which can be problematic for cats.

  · Leaving the food out all the time works for cats able to self-regulate and not over-eat, but can wear out the “appetite” centers of sick cats so Sheba loses her appetite. Offer small amounts every hour with a break in between times.

  · When a gobbler out-eats nibblers, or a dominant cat keeps shy felines from feeding, set up more than one feeding station and serve meals separately. Look for more tips for dealing with these problems in the section titled “The Kitty Smorgasbord.”

  · Cats fed the same diet throughout their life may not recognize the new kibble as edible. Gradual transition from the old to the new food works best. Mix ¼ of the new diet with ¾ of the old for a week. The second week, mix the two diets 50/50. The third week, mix ¾ of the new with ¼ of the old until finally Sheba eats 100 percent of the new food.

  · Feed Sheba from your finger while stroking her neck to stimulate her to eat. Pungent foods like tuna work best to tempt flagging feline appetites, and in cases of long term anorexia, it’s “legal” to offer the cat anything just to get her to eat.

  VET ALERT!

  Cats that stop eating for even a day or two can become very ill when the condition affects the liver. Fatty liver disease (hepatic lipidosis) may result when the body reflexively moves fat stores into the liver to counter the lost nutrition. The stored fat interferes with liver function, and makes the cat feel even sicker and less willing to eat. This creates a vicious cycle and in some cases, the kitty must be hospitalized and a feeding tube inserted to be force fed, before she’ll regain his appetite.

  THE KITTY SMORGASBORD

  Different personalities, social interactions, and health issues will impact appetite, diet and feeding schedule and dictate how to manage the multiple cat home. When cats are approximately the same age, the same diet may be appropriate. But when they are different ages you may need one for kittens, for instance, or a senior formulation for your aging crew.

  The more cats you have, the greater the chance they’ll require different foods. One adult may need a food to control lower urinary tract problems, which won’t work for the new kitten. Another cat eats reduced calorie food, while his best cat-buddy requires a high-protein diet to control diabete
s. Feeding multiple diets becomes a management issue of time, space, and personalities. Feel free to use one, all, or any combination of tips to design the best situation for your cats.

  · It can be overwhelming to keep track of multiple cats during dinner, but no rule says they must all be fed at once. Staggered feedings even 10 minutes apart may allow you to supervise each meal, and “ride herd” on the kitties who shouldn’t nibble from a particular formula.

  · Make sure the cats’ bowls are a safe distance apart, so they don’t feel their personal space has been invaded. Cats form good opinions of each other by eating within sight of one another, because that creates a positive association for them. If a cat stops chewing to stare at another feline, move the bowls further apart.

  · Cats that seem to guard feeding stations, or that seem fearful to eat when another kitty is present, will require separate areas to eat.

  · Some felines love to scrounge, “hunt” or swipe food, so give these cat burglars a legal outlet. Treat balls dispense a single meal to one cat, or treats to a group so as the cat plays, the dry food inserted into the ball or toy dispenses a kibble at a time. That keeps Sheba fed and entertained, and out of another feline’s bowl.

  · Garfield gluttons can’t resist grazing from other cats’ bowls. Assign a single bowl for each cat and an individual place for each bowl. Cats faithful to a routine are less likely to interrupt each other’s mealtimes. Countertops, tables, various levels on the cat tree, or book shelves all offer valuable kitty real estate for individual feeding locations each cat can “own.”

  · Aged arthritic cats have more trouble reaching second-story locations. Set the food bowls of more agile cats on countertops out of reach of the geriatric feline who must eat a special diet.

  · Food that gets gulped down too quickly often comes back up just as easily. Slow glutton cats by spreading kibble on a large flat pan, so the cat must “chase” it to get each piece. There are also commercial foods that make the kibbles/particles larger so the cat must chew, and can’t gulp and swallow mouthfuls at a time.

  · When cats of different sizes must eat two specific diets, such as a weight-reducing food for the big guy and a regular food for the little one, separate cats during meals in different rooms or create a ‘boxed lunch.’ Cut a tiny cat-size opening in a cardboard or plastic storage box to fit the smaller cat, and place the small cat’s food bowl inside the box, where he can access and nibble at his leisure.

  · Arthritic or overweight cats often require different foods than young athlete cats. A baby gait can segregate feeding stations by allowing only the more nimble cats to pass through or jump over.

  · Pet doors with electronic “key” collars work well. The cat wearing the special collar can access the door into the screened porch to eat, for example, while the rest of the furry crew can’t get through.

  Chapter 8: CAT TO CAT INTRODUCTIONS

  Adopting a mom with one or two kittens can offer security and build confidence particularly for the kittens. Similarly, adopting two kittens together can help them have a “buddy” to depend on for fun and games, and a furry security blanket when they feel fearful or stressed. But when you have an existing cat family, choose the new cat carefully, so she will fit into your existing feline family.

  Because cats become so dependent upon routine, and bond closely with “place,” bringing a new feline into the mix disrupts the worlds of both the resident cats and the new cat. Pay special attention to your current feline family. They’ve been around the longest, and their happiness must be considered first before any interloper’s.

  Existing cat hierarchies do not welcome strange felines with open paws. It’s natural for your resident cats to try and drive off newcomers, or at least keep them at bay. Adding another kitty to the mix rarely solves existing behavior problems, either, and may make them worse or prompt new ones. A newcomer has a hard time being accepted under the best conditions, so keep these issues in mind to make the introductions run smoothly.

  CAT COMPETABILITY

  There are five important components to consider when choosing a new feline to join your resident cats. You can refer to the LEASH acronym and discussion for details. Introductions take a great deal of patience, and you’ll earn fewer gray hairs if your resident kitties already have basic manners, such as understanding the word “no.”

  If your current cat family gets along well, that improves the odds they’ll welcome yet another feline to the mix because they already understand “cat language” and know how to fit into feline society. Adult cats more readily accept babies that don’t challenge their social position. It’s best to pick a kitten that’s at least 12 to 16 weeks old so she’s had time to learn important cat lessons from siblings and mom.

  Cats reach “social maturity” by age four and often become very set in their ways, so if they’ve never before lived with another cat, extra patience will be needed to convince them to accept a newcomer. Watch the cat’s tail and ears for cues. A low held or swishing tail reveals agitation, and ears turned to the side or backwards indicate fear and/or aggression. Be prepared to break up serious altercations that include growls or hisses, and separate the cats.

  All cats need space to claim as their own. Ideally, have no more cats than you have bedrooms—or, build UP the potential territory by adding vertical space. If your cats get along and each has claimed a favorite resting/lookout spot, be sure to add several more options to accommodate the new felines. Don’t expect cats to share with the new guy. They might become fast friends and want to sleep together, but that’s a bonus if it happens, and not something to count on.

  While you know all your resident cats, the new feline feels insecure and defensive. Sheba won’t be willing to meet anybody until she’s familiar and comfortable with the new environment. To be fair, initial introductions should be one-on-one, a single new cat meeting a single resident cat. ALWAYS pay more attention to the resident pet. The resident kitty will be much more willing to accept a newcomer as long as your affections aren’t usurped. Be patient. It may take days, weeks or even months for the cats to get along. Rarely, it’s love at first sight, but some cats may never become friends.

  STEP-BY-STEP INTRODUCTIONS

  These basic principles of introduction apply no matter what types of cats share your home and heart. The assumption has been made that both the resident(s) and the new kitty are confident, healthy felines that have been properly socialized. Extra steps may be necessary to smooth upset feelings when one or more of the cats involved have a physical or emotional health issue

  Be sure that your resident “king cat” gets fed first, petted first, groomed first, and receives preferential treatment over lower-ranking cats. Preferred attention to a lower-ranking cat may inspire Sheba to kick furry tail to teach the lower ranking cat her place. If your top feline is geriatric, you may need to separate her during feeding and resting times so she’s not bothered by a more energetic newcomer. Don’t be surprised if neither the resident “king” nor the interloper end up on top. Adding a new feline could create a brave new kitty world and a fresh hierarchy as well.

  · Neutering makes a cat’s urine smell differently, and visiting the veterinarian also creates a “foreign” smell on the treated cat. Neuter new cats BEFORE beginning introductions or you’ll have to start over after the vet visit.

  · New cats feel more secure when initially confined to small areas of the house they more quickly get used to. Create a home base for the new cat in a small room with a door that shuts completely. If you have more than one new cat and they already know each other, you may be able to confine them together and they’ll comfort and give confidence to each other.

  · Cats become more upset by the sight of a strange feline than by the smell or sound. A solid door allows cats to meet via sound, smell, and paw pats under the door, yet avoid emotional overload prompted by restricting sensory input.

  · The home base also keeps resident kitties happy that only a small portion of th
eir territory has been invaded. Choose a room they normally don’t use and won’t feel as upset at being banned.

  · Second-hand supplies that already smell like other cats make a new feline feel more insecure so stock the home base with only thoroughly washed food and water bowls, new toys, and a new scratching post and litter box. If your newcomer came with a favorite bed or toys, include these so the familiar smells help keep her calm. Include hiding places, such as cat tunnels, so she feels more secure about navigating the strange new room.

  · Some initial posturing and hissing at the door is normal, and resident cats may engage in redirected aggression toward each other when they can’t reach the newcomer. Cats tell you when they feel comfortable and are ready for the next step. Be encouraged by paw pat games under the door, the new cat’s willingness to come out of hiding and interact with you, and your resident kitties maintaining their normal routine and not aggressing toward companion cats.

  · To further gauge your cats’ readiness for a face-to-face, introduce individual cat scents to them. Bring something out of the home base that’s scented by the new cat for the resident felines to smell, and vice versa. When you’re dealing with a total of two or three kitties, a plate of food where each ate works well, because it also has a positive food association. DON’T switch bedding or the cats may urinate on it to show dominance. Hissing and growling after sniffing means they need more time segregated, but mild interest means you’re on the right track.