Glacier National Park

by Mike Graf

  “And there’s her baby,” Morgan added.

  The mother moose dipped her head into the marsh and came up with a mouthful of soggy grass.

  Lynn whispered, “I’ve seen moose every time I’ve been to Kootenai Lake this summer. This mother had two calves until recently. We don’t know what happened to the other one. It’s common for their young not to make it through their first year. They’re a favorite food of grizzlies.

  “Moose calves grow extremely fast. They’re about 22 pounds at birth in the spring and 220 pounds by the end of summer. They stay with Mom all winter, and after a year, she’ll try to kick them out, just like human parents do with their grown kids.” Lynn laughed. “Some refuse to leave, though.

  “Go ahead and wander along the shore,” Lynn said. “Just stay far away from the moose. They’re very unpredictable and are known to charge humans. And one more thought,” Lynn added. “A Native American legend says that if you dream of moose, it means you’ll live a long life. So tonight I hope everyone dreams of moose.”

  The Parkers watched the gangly ungulate and her calf in the picturesque surroundings.

  A short time later, everyone regrouped and retraced their steps to Goat Haunt with Lynn.

  As they returned to camp that evening, Dad turned the car into the Many Glacier Hotel parking lot. The family got out and gazed in awe at pinnacled peaks and pyramid-shaped mountains silhouetted against the horizon. Dad let out a sigh and said, “What an amazing place.”

  The family wandered into the hotel and out the back door onto the deck. They spent a few more minutes there, watching the slow sunset and the onset of twilight from the hotel’s deck. Many other visitors were doing the same thing while also taking pictures.

  Then the Parkers walked downstairs and joined an evening program.

  The lone wolf tilted his head up and let out a series of howls. He then perked up his ears and listened for a reply from within the darkening forest.

  Another wolf, somewhere, answered his call. The injured wolf howled again and slowly trotted forward before suddenly coming to a halt.

  Across the way, two glowing eyes stared into his. The two wolves gazed at each other from a distance, their tails upright and fur rising.

  The wolves walked cautiously forward until they were close enough to touch. They began circling and smelling each other. Their tails remained standing, but the fur on their backs settled down.

  After a few minutes, the wolves walked off together, one limping, toward the forest.

  11

  Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad tore down camp early the next morning. They left the Many Glacier area and headed south. At St. Mary, Dad turned the car back into the park and drove west on Going-to-the-Sun Road.

  Eventually the Parkers pulled into the Lake McDonald Lodge parking lot. They packed snacks, extra clothes, flashlights, bear spray, and water. A shuttle bus took them back to Logan Pass. Then another brought the family down to the Gunsight Pass trailhead.

  The Parker family stepped off the bus along with a couple of other hikers, hoisted on their day packs, and Dad announced, “Here we go, the grand finale of our trip!”

  James looked at Dad. “And we don’t have to carry all our camping gear.”

  “The chalet’s going to be a real treat,” Mom said.

  “And our car will be waiting for us at the end,” Morgan added.

  The Parkers began their journey by traversing a gentle, forested slope. Soon they came to a junction. A sign leading to a backcountry campsite said:

  DANGER: THE AREA BEYOND THIS SIGN IS CLOSED DUE TO BEAR ACTIVITY.

  The Parkers read the warning just as a couple caught up to them.

  “Hmm,” Dad murmured, his hands automatically reaching for his bear spray canister. “Let’s not hang out here, okay?”

  They hastily hiked on. The couple stayed close behind. “Mind if we tag along?” one of them asked.

  “Of course not,” Mom replied. “We did the same thing the other day at Grinnell Lake. We’re much safer in numbers here in bear country.”

  Morgan noticed that the man and woman were only carrying day packs. “Are you staying at the chalet too?” she asked.

  “We are,” the man replied. “By the way, I’m Greg, and this is my wife, Corinne.”

  “I’m Morgan, and this is my twin brother, James. My mom and dad are Kristen and Robert.”

  A marshy stream meandered along on the east side of the path. James noticed its turquoise-colored water. “There’s a glacier somewhere up there!” he announced with enthusiasm.

  Dad caught a glimpse of a bush shaking up ahead. He paused and held out his arms until everyone stopped. “Hey, bear!” Dad shouted.

  “What did you see?” Mom asked nervously.

  “I’m not sure yet.”

  Dad inched forward.

  A squirrel jumped off the bush and scampered across the forest floor. It leaped onto a tree and hurriedly climbed it. From a high branch, it looked down on the intruders, twitched its tail, and blared a shrill-pitched call.

  “I guess we disturbed it,” Corinne concluded, chuckling at their nerves.

  Soon the group came to another junction.

  They all sat down and ate snacks. Morgan had Corinne take a picture of the whole family on the wooden footbridge.

  After a few minutes, Mom stood up. “We should move along. There’s still lots of hiking ahead today.”

  “We’re going to take this short side trail to Florence Falls,” Greg said. “Thanks for letting us hang with you.”

  “No problem,” Dad replied. “Maybe you’ll catch us on the way up. If not, we’ll see you at the chalet.”

  The Parkers trekked on, climbing a ridgeline with views of ice-laden peaks in the distance.

  The wolf’s new companion trotted up with a dead animal in her mouth. She dropped the squirrel right in front of the injured wolf.

  The carnivore stood up and put his foot down on the rodent. He quickly tore into it with his sharp teeth, pulling away a section of meat.

  Mom pulled out the binoculars. The family took turns inspecting the chunks of glacial ice on the mountains ahead.

  James took a quick peek at his map. “I think those are the Jackson and Blackfoot glaciers,” he said.

  The family heard footsteps approaching from above. They looked up and saw a solitary ranger striding down the path.

  “Beautiful trail,” Mom said to the ranger.

  “I know. I love it!” the ranger agreed. “Is everything okay?”

  “We’re fine,” Mom responded.

  The ranger trekked on, her equipment rattling as she walked.

  The Parkers soon reached the top of the ridge. They continued on through a wildflower-filled meadow with clumps of trees scattered here and there. The family soon approached the Gunsight Lake backcountry campsite and stopped at the cooking area to snack and use the privy. Morgan noticed a group of packs dangling from bear poles nearby. “Look,” she pointed.

  Dad scanned the surroundings. “It must be great to camp out here!”

  “As long as you’re careful with your food,” Mom replied, smiling.

  Their path took them to the lake. At a small footbridge they gazed at the scenery spread out before them. Gunsight Lake sat in a deep mountain bowl framed by high peaks, snowfields, and cascading waterfalls. Dad picked out a faint line indicating the trail toward Gunsight Pass. “Major climb ahead!” he announced.

  James examined the snowfields clinging to the high peaks. A few of them had noticeable cracks in them. He checked the map. “I wonder why those aren’t glaciers.”

  Dad thought for a moment. “It might be they’re not big enough. Remember, they need to be about 100 feet deep to move.”

  “And twenty-five acres wide,” Mom added, recalling something else Rick had mentioned.

  Mom noticed dark clouds building up. “We better keep moving,” she prompted. The Parkers began the long climb as a light mist started sprinkling down. They trekked on, alter
nating between warm and sweaty because of the climb and cold from the light rain and dropping temperature.

  The trail switchbacked steadily until it was high above Gunsight Lake. Soon the family was looking down at the deep, U-shaped valley that held the large body of water. “Boy,” Dad said in awe, “the ice age glaciers around here must have been huge.”

  The narrow trail hugged a cliff, with steep drop-offs plunging all the way to the lake. Across the way a melting ice field’s plume of water plunged out of its base, zigzagging down a rocky ridge.

  The Parkers kept climbing. A tongue of ice appeared far above on their left. Large chunks of blue ice hung precipitously down from it. “Glaciers or not, there’s a lot of ice around here,” Dad said.

  Morgan took several pictures of the hanging ice field to their left and Gunsight Lake far below. Then she gazed down at the path they had climbed and saw two people. “Greg and Corinne are coming!” she exclaimed. Morgan waved to them. They saw her and waved back.

  James counted all the streams of water plunging down from the snowfields. “There are at least eight waterfalls around here,” he announced.

  Soon the trail leveled off. The family splashed through pools of water and a waterfall that soaked the trail. They tramped over a remnant patch of snow and past displays of delicate alpine wildflowers.

  Morgan noticed a structure ahead. “There’s a building!”

  Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad surged on. Finally they made it to Gunsight Pass.

  Mom noticed that James was shivering. “Let’s get inside and try to warm up,” she said with concern in her voice.

  The Parkers walked into the small stone storm shelter and Dad pulled the door closed. The family sat down, put on more clothes, and pulled out some snacks.

  After a few minutes, James glanced out the window. The clouds hung low over the mountains as a light rain drifted down. “It’s really getting wet out there,” James announced.

  The wooden door to the shelter slowly creaked open, then stopped. Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad turned to look. The door opened a few more inches. The Parkers traded nervous glances.

  A small animal walked inside. It looked at the family and twitched its nose.

  Dad scolded the marmot. “Go on. Get out. There’s no food for you here.”

  The marmot stayed put.

  Dad stomped his foot, then took a few steps toward the alpine creature.

  The marmot turned and scampered out.

  This time, Dad latched the door. “That ought to keep our animal friends out.”

  The Parkers huddled close, still trying to warm themselves.

  A moment later the latch to the door popped up and the door started to creak open again.

  The family stared at the door, bewildered, wondering what animal had the dexterity to enter.

  Greg and Corinne stepped in and saw the Parkers. “Hello, old friends!” Greg called out.

  “We thought you were another marmot,” James replied. Then he explained what had happened a few minutes earlier.

  Soon the rain abated and the sun began to peek through the clouds. All six hikers stepped outside. They worked their way down a series of steep switchbacks and past a gushing waterfall on the other side of the pass.

  The trail now paralleled Lake Ellen Wilson. It started climbing again. The weary but content hikers trekked on.

  Finally, after another long climb, the trail topped out at Lincoln Pass. The group gathered there and gazed at large Lake McDonald in the hazy distance. Morgan scanned the area directly below. “There’s the chalet!” she exclaimed.

  “Boy, that’s a sight for sore eyes,” Corinne added.

  Everyone clambered down and reached their hotel in the wilderness a short time later. The Parkers quickly checked in.

  Morgan opened the door to their room and peered inside. She turned to her family. “There’s no place like home!”

  The Parkers had three beds in their rustic quarters. Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad quickly pulled off their shoes and wet clothes, hopped into their beds, and got under the covers. “I’m exhausted,” Mom exclaimed.

  “And cold,” James added through chattering teeth.

  The dinner bell rang an hour later. Dad quickly sat up. “I’m suddenly hungry,” he announced.

  Mom laughed. “That’s no surprise.”

  The family walked toward the dining hall and found their assigned table. Greg and Corinne were already there.

  12

  The staff from the chalet stood in front of the dining hall. They introduced themselves and gave guests tips for their visit.

  The kitchen manager spoke last. “This is my fifth summer here at the chalet. I came years ago as a guest, like you, and decided this is where I wanted to spend my summers. One thing I’ve learned is not to leave any wet clothes hanging outside. The mountain goats may end up eating them.”

  I’M GOING TO SWITZERLAND!

  When Glacier was first encountered by European explorers, they called it the Swiss Alps of America. Sperry Chalet and its nine sister chalets were built starting in 1911. The chalets were modeled after Swiss architecture, and an Italian stonemason used local rocks to construct the stonework. Sperry Chalet opened as a hotel in 1914. In their prime, these chalets often hosted more than 100 people a night. All the chalets closed during World War II. They were run by the railroads, which at that time diverted their resources to the war rather than tourism. Most of the chalets were eventually torn down. Only Sperry and Granite chalets are still in operation today, and one other in the Two Medicine area has been converted into a store.

  “Before we eat, let’s go around and have a person from your party introduce your group,” said the manager.

  People from each table stood up, told where they were from, and shared some thoughts about Glacier National Park. Guests came from Minnesota, Texas, Spain, Washington, Montana, and Florida, among other places.

  Finally, everyone turned to the Parkers’ table and Greg stood. “My name is Greg and this is my wife, Corinne. I’m an airline pilot, so we get to travel often. We’re from Chicago, but we used to live in Montana. It’s no exaggeration to say that Glacier is our favorite place on the planet.”

  Greg sat down and looked at the Parkers. Morgan got up and introduced her family, then continued. “We hiked over Gunsight Pass today. My parents said it’s one of the best hikes they’ve ever done. James and I agree. But we might all change our minds tomorrow when we hike to the glacier!”

  The manager smiled at the guests. “Our food is brought up regularly all summer by horse train, and we had a shipment delivered today. You must all be famished. Dinner is now served!”

  After a meal of pasta, green beans, soup, and bread, Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad played cards with Greg and Corinne. Eventually they wandered outside to the deck to enjoy the sunset under now-clear skies. Far below, Lake McDonald glistened in the sun.

  “What time are you heading up to the glacier tomorrow?” Corinne asked the Parkers.

  “Right after an early breakfast,” Mom answered, “so we can take our time on the long trek down to our car.”

  “We’ll see you somewhere on the trail, then,” Greg replied. “We’re going to sleep in and start later. We’re staying two nights here at the chalet.”

  The late Montana sunset lit up the sky as the evening began to chill. Morgan and James zipped up their jackets just as the sun finally dipped below the mountains.

  The wolf pair trotted out to Two Dog Flats. They scanned the open plain and spotted a herd of elk.

  The wolves casually trotted toward the herd. The gray wolf still limped, but he managed to keep up with his new companion.

  The predators crept closer and studied the elk. They noticed a small calf on the fringe of the group.

  The wolves charged straight at the calf.

  The elk perked their ears up and saw the rapidly approaching predators. They immediately dashed away, disappearing into the nearby trees.

  The two wolves ran in
and out of the forest, searching for the elk. They found them all bunched together with the calves in the middle of the pack. Eventually the wolves regrouped, worked their way down the slope, and crossed the road. Finally the pair left the Two Dog Flats area and St. Mary Lake altogether, heading toward the southern part of the park.

  The chalet visitors headed inside. The wooden guest quarters were cool and dark. Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad each turned on a flashlight, changed into pajamas, and climbed into their beds.

  Mom pulled the blankets up and held them snug against her chin. “It’s certainly cozy in here!” she said.

  “Good-night, everyone,” Morgan called out from her bed.

  “Good-night!” James chimed back.

  In the morning after breakfast, the Parkers began their hike toward Sperry Glacier. The trail immediately steepened, and as they trudged up it, James paused to see how far they’d come. “It seems like we’re hiking toward the sky,” he said with delight.

  Morgan heard a pika whistle. She briefly saw the tiny animal dash away from the trail. “It does look like a little rabbit!” she called out to her mom.

  James pointed to a cliff above them. “There’s a bigger animal up there!”

  A mountain goat was perched on a rock. It appeared to be watching the Parkers hike.

  After a series of steep switchbacks, the pitch of the trail eased.

  The family now passed several mossy, gardenlike areas with trickling waterfalls and small ponds. Finally they reached a larger lake with a snowfield sticking up out of it. Its blue ice shone through the water at the lake’s edge.