Bike Repair & Maintenance For Dummies®

by Dennis Bailey

  If the front brake cable breaks on a long trip, replace it with the rear brake cable.

  Chapter 9

  Taking Your Seat: Saddles and Seat Posts

  In This Chapter

  Looking at the different types of saddles

  Taking your saddle on and off your bike

  Improving your comfort by adjusting your saddle

  Using suspension seat posts

  This chapter is devoted to your butt. In particular, it’s devoted to making sure that your butt is not a source of frustration while you ride.

  Your body has three points of contact with your bike and your saddle is the part of the bike where the majority of your weight is supported. If you don’t have a saddle that suits your anatomy or that’s properly adjusted, you can rest assured that your butt is going to be one big pain in the butt after your next long ride.

  Every butt is unique. There isn’t one style of saddle or one formula for adjusting the saddle that works for everyone. Finding a saddle that fits your anatomy and finding the position that’s most comfortable both take time.

  We start this chapter by covering the various types of saddles available. Then we tell you how to make adjustments to your saddle so you can find an enjoyable riding position.

  Even if you find the saddle type and position that’s perfect for you, it’ll take some time to break in the saddle — and to break in your bum.

  Saddle Up! Types of Saddles

  No two butts are the same, and there is no such thing as a one-size-fits-all saddle. A wide variety of saddles are on the market — saddles made of different materials, designed for different functions, and tailored for men or women. In this section, we discuss a few of these differences so that you can find the saddle that’s best for you.

  Material

  Bicycle saddles are typically covered with leather, plastic, or vinyl. The most popular saddles on the market today are the ones covered in plastic or vinyl. Underneath the plastic or vinyl covers, they’re made of gels and high-density foams. These saddles vary in thickness and weight depending on the type of shell underneath. They don’t require much maintenance, they’re durable, and they resist water — all of which contributes to their popularity. (See Figure 9-8, later in this chapter, for an example of a vinyl-covered saddle.)

  The less-popular leather saddles (such as the one shown in Figure 9-1) are built with a single piece of leather stretched across a steel frame. (Brooks is a well known leather saddle manufacturer.) People usually either love or hate leather saddles. Those who use them usually swear by them and wouldn’t consider setting their tushes on anything else.

  Figure 9-1: Leather saddles aren’t for everyone, but people who like them swear by them.

  Leather saddles are very stiff, but they also provide the maximum support for sit bones without the padding that actually puts more pressure on soft tissue.

  But the nice thing about leather is that it’s moldable. A leather saddle may feel like a rock when you first buy it, but over time it’ll begin to shape to the form of your body. Breaking in a leather saddle takes a little time, but when you’re done, you’ll have a seat form-fit to your butt.

  Leather products such as conditioners, saddle soaps, and other compounds can speed this process. They also help protect and extend the life of your saddle.

  When you ride with a leather saddle, take along a plastic bag in case it rains. You can use it protect the saddle from soaking up water and drying out. If the saddle does get wet, allow it to dry naturally.

  The base or foundation of the saddle is arguably the important consideration. It doesn’t matter how much or what type of padding there is on top, if the base is a piece of sheet metal, hard and stiff, or not the correct shape, you’ll have a very uncomfortable ride. Make sure the base or foundation is flexible and the proper fit or style for your butt.

  Function

  Saddles are built for two main functions: cruising or racing.

  Cruising saddles (see Figure 9-2) are wide, extra-cushioned saddles designed for casual riders who sit in the upright position. The extra padding helps support the extra weight on the seat that comes from sitting upright. Sometimes cruising saddles are cushioned with horizontal and/or vertical springs. Most people ride on cruising bikes for leisure, so the wide seat doesn’t cause a problem with the restriction of leg movement as it would on a racing-style bicycle.

  Racing saddles (see Figure 9-3) are specially designed to allow a full range of motion when pedaling. They’re normally lightweight, thin (with little padding), and narrow. They’re designed with grooves, channels, and splits in the shell to help reduce pressure on sensitive areas of the pelvic region. These saddles are no longer restricted just to racers — many midrange bikes are now equipped with racing saddles.

  Figure 9-2: Cruising saddles are meant for casual riders who sit in the upright position.

  Figure 9-3: Racing saddles are specifically built for racers.

  Gender

  The last factor to consider when choosing a saddle is the gender of the primary rider. Saddles for men and women are designed for the differences in anatomy between the two sexes. Men’s saddles are typically longer and narrower in the back, whereas women’s saddles are shorter and wider to accommodate women’s wider pelvic bones. A women’s saddle also frequently has a cut-away behind the nose to provide extra comfort.

  Getting comfortable in the saddle

  When you first start riding, you may have a literal pain in the butt. But there are some steps you can take to get comfortable in your saddle:

  Try a variety of different saddles. The only way to tell if you’ll like a saddle is to ride on it, so many bike stores will allow you to take a saddle overnight and exchange it for a different one if needed.

  Don’t forget to move around. Instead of sitting in the same position for hours at a time, try shifting your weight and hand position every so often.

  Wear the right clothing. Biking shorts are designed without seams to help prevent chafing. They also have special fabric to wick away moisture and keep you dry.

  Adjust the height and angle. Sometimes it takes a little experimenting to find the right combination. Use the advice in this chapter to find the position that’s best for you.

  Exercise your butt. The more you ride, the more your bottom will adjust to sitting on the saddle.

  Strange as it sounds, the more you ride, the more you’ll like a smaller saddle. Give yourself time to get used to the saddle. A cushy saddle may seem comfortable at first, but it isn’t for regular riders.

  If a woman were to use a seat designed for a man, the two small bones at the bottom of her pelvic bone would not be supported properly. There are different sit-bone widths, and finding a saddle that corresponds to your sit-bone width, regardless if it’s for men or women, is essential.

  Removing and Installing a Saddle

  There are a number of different ways in which saddles attach to seat posts. On some older or lower-end models, the seat post and the seat clamp are two separate pieces with the bolt horizontal and tightened with a nut (as shown in Figure 9-4). This type of seat clamp only has a limited number of groves and ridges for the seat-angle adjustment — as opposed to the next two clamp styles, which have about twice the number of seat-angle adjustment points, which allows you to find a much more comfortable riding position.

  On many bikes, the seat clamp is integrated into the seat post and the saddle is attached with one or two vertical bolts, which are adjusted with an Allen wrench. Figures 9-5 and 9-6 show a saddle with a one-piece clamp.

  Figure 9-4: A traditional saddle clamp.

  Figure 9-5: One piece saddle clamp.

  Figure 9-6: One piece saddle disassembled.

  Another style of clamp is the two-piece clamp. It allows for a lot of flexibility in terms of adjusting the fore and aft of the saddle; however, it is a little trickier to attach. Here’s how:

  1. Turn the saddle upside down and remove the seat post.

&n
bsp; 2. Hold the bottom half of the clamp under the seat rails with your fingers.

  3. While supporting the bottom half of the clamp, slide the square nut under the clamp and hold it in place with your fingers.

  4. Lay the top half of the clamp on top, making sure that both clamps align with one another.

  At this point, you should still be supporting the bottom half of the clamp and the square nut with your hand.

  5. Place the seat post on the top clamp, insert the bolt, and tighten (as shown in Figure 9-7).

  Figure 9-7: Attaching a two-piece clamp.

  Adjusting the Saddle Fore, Aft, and Height

  Adjustments to the saddle can make a big difference in comfort when you ride whether it is a long or even short trip. After all, most of your weight is being supported by the saddle.

  In this section, we tell you how to adjust the angle, fore and aft, and height of your saddle. Take the time to adjust your saddle properly, and you’ll feel the benefits on your next ride.

  Angling for the right angle

  If your saddle is tilted slightly downward in the front, your weight is going to be slid forward, putting extra pressure on your arms and shoulders. On the other hand, if the saddle is sloped upward in the front, you may feel extra pressure on the groin area. In general, the recommendation is to keep the saddle flat.

  Place a level on top of your saddle to help you set it flat.

  To adjust the angle of your saddle, follow these steps:

  1. Loosen the saddle clamp bolt a few turns.

  2. Work the saddle up and down with your hand, jimmying the saddle into the position you want.

  3. Retighten the clamp bolt.

  Fore and aft, to and fro

  If your seat is too far forward, you won’t be using your leg muscles efficiently and your knees can get sore. If your seat is too far to the rear, you’ll be stretching to reach the handlebars, which will put strain on your back and knees.

  In Chapter 18, we tell you how to use a weighted string to find the fore-and-aft position that’s right for you. After you have the position, follow these steps to adjust the saddle backward or forward:

  1. Unloosen the saddle clamp bolt one turn (as shown in Figure 9-8).

  2. Tap the saddle with your hand to move it forward or backward.

  3. Retighten the clamp bolt.

  Figure 9-8: Adjusting the saddle

  Height matters

  The proper saddle height is as important as, if not more important than, the angle and fore and aft of the saddle. When your saddle is at the right height for your body, you can efficiently transfer force to the pedals. If you set the height too low, you risk injury by putting undue stress on your knees. Set the height too high, and you’ll be bouncing around on the seat, giving the nerves in your butt a Swedish massage.

  Follow the instructions in Chapter 18 to find the proper height for your saddle. Then follow these steps to set the height:

  1. Loosen the seat-post bolt or the quick-release binder that’s holding the seat post in place.

  If you don’t have a quick release on the seat post, you’ll probably have a bolt that can be loosened with an Allen wrench (as shown in Figure 9-9).

  Figure 9-9: If you don’t have a quick-release on your seat post, you’ll need to loosen the clamp bolt.

  After loosening the seat post, you should be able to slide the seat post up and down. If the post is difficult to move, try rotating the seat back and forth while pulling up on the seat. This is usually enough to pry it free.

  If the post still won’t move for you, you can try dripping some oil or penetrating lubricant on the seat post and letting it work its way down between the frame and the seat post. Another last-ditch trick is to use a screwdriver and pry apart the clamp or lug pinching the post together.

  2. If you used oil or penetrating lubricant to loosen the post, use a degreaser afterwards to clean it off.

  You’ll want it clean so that, when you apply grease to prevent corrosion, the grease will adhere to the post.

  Before installing the post, apply grease to its shaft to prevent corrosion.

  Don’t use grease if you have a carbon frame or seat post. Grease can cause a chemical reaction that can attack the carbon frame and/or carbon seat post.

  3. Set the saddle and seat post to the proper height while tightening the bolt or quick-release clamp.

  Make sure the saddle is aligned straight.

  4. Give the bike a test drive to confirm that the saddle is at the right height.

  When you’re comfortable with the height, use a file or other tool with a sharp edge to mark the correct height of the post. If you have an expensive or stylish seat post that you don’t want to mar, you can also use a piece of electrical tape to mark the seat post. This marking will allow you to reset the height if the post loosens for some reason.

  Suspension seat posts

  When most people think about suspension on bikes, they think of rear and front suspension on mountain bikes. What doesn’t get a lot of attention is suspension in the seat post (see the figure). If you’re looking for a more comfortable ride, you might want to consider this option.

  When you’re installing a suspension seat post, read the owner’s manual to understand how to preload it for your weight. Heavier riders need a stiffer suspension than lighter riders do.

  Suspension posts should be set a little higher than normal because your weight will cause it drop slightly. Riding a bicycle with a suspension seat post takes a little getting used to because it’s a couple inches higher when you first get on, and then it compresses with your weight to the proper height for riding. Take your Allen wrench along when you ride and you can adjust it when needed.

  Chapter 10

  Hitting the Links: The Chain

  In This Chapter

  Identifying the different types of chains

  Dealing with common problems with chains

  Replacing your chain

  Caring for your chain

  Although it doesn’t garner much attention, the chain is an especially important part of the bike. If one of your cables breaks or a derailleur gives out, you can still ride your bike. But if the chain snaps or malfunctions, you can’t do much except walk your bike home. The chain is also important because it comes in contact with other parts of your bike. If the chain is dirty or needs to be replaced, it will cause cogs, chainrings, and derailleurs to wear out more quickly.

  To look at a chain, you might think that it doesn’t require much care. After all, a chain is supposed to be something durable and unbreakable, right? Unfortunately, this isn’t the case with a bike chain, where any one link can be the “weak link.”

  In order to ensure that your chain has the long life that the manufacturer intended and doesn’t wear out other components prematurely, invest time in cleaning and lubricating the chain on a regular basis. In this chapter, we tell you how to clean and lube your chain properly and describe the kind of lubrications available to keep it functioning in peak form. We also show you how to replace a chain, which you’ll need to do when the chain begins to stretch or wear out.

  A Chain Is Not a Chain Is Not a Chain: Types of Chains

  To the untrained eye, most bike chains look the same. But pull two bikes off the road and compare the chains and you’ll likely find that they have different chains, designed specifically to work with the bikes’ particular components. For example, a 1/8-inch-wide chain is designed to work with kids’ single-speed, fixed-gear, and three-speed bikes (basically most bicycles without a rear derailleur). The majority of bikes use a 3/32-inch-wide chain. However, knowing the width is not enough. You need to purchase a chain that is designed to work with the number of cogs on your bike. If you tell someone in your local bike store how many cogs are on your bike, they can help you find the right chain.

  Here are the two major types of chains you’re likely to find:

  SRAM PowerLink–type chains: SRAM PowerLink and other similar types of chains resemb
le the old master-link chains found on single-speed bikes. You may remember these from when you were a kid (if you were a kid in the ’60s or ’70s). Figure 10-1 shows an example of an SRAM PowerLink chain, and Figure 10-2 shows an old-school master-link chain.

  By the way, SRAM is a manufacturer of bike components. You can find out more at www.sram.com.

  Shimano- and Campagnolo-type chains: Most bikes have chains that fall into this category. Shimano- and Campagnolo-type chains use a special replacement pin for installation (see Figure 10-3).

  Shimano and Campagnolo are manufacturers of bike components. You can find out more at www.shimano.com and www.campagnolo.com.

  Chains with reusable rivets: This type of chain uses reusable rivets, which are partially pressed out of the chain during separation and then pressed back in with a chain tool. This saves you from having to keep special replacement pins handy.

  Figure 10-1: An SRAM PowerLink chain.

  Figure 10-2: A masterlink chain — straight out of the past.

  Figure 10-3: A Shimano chain.

  If you’re replacing a chain, make sure you choose one that matches the number of cogs on your cassette. If you choose the wrong size chain, you may have shifting troubles. It’s also important to identify whether you have a drivetrain that requires a specially designed chain. For example, Shimano makes a Hyperglide line of products that include specially shaped cogs that facilitate shifting. When in doubt, take your bike into your local bike shop so that they can quickly tell you which kind of chain you need. To read more about cogs and cassettes and the drivetrain, refer to Chapters 11 and 13, respectively.

  Recognizing What Can Go Wrong with the Chain

  The chain is completely exposed at the bottom of your bike, so it easily picks up dirt and grime, twigs and leaves can get caught in it, and it can be impacted with foreign objects (especially if you’re riding off-road) — all of which can undermine the chain’s integrity and lead to a break at the most inopportune time.