Obroni and the Chocolate Factory
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Copyright © 2017 by Steven Wallace
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Wallace, Steven, author.
Title: Obroni and the chocolate factory : an unlikely story of globalization and Ghana’s first gourmet chocolate bar / Steven Wallace.
Description: New York City : Skyhorse Publishing, 2017.
Identifiers: LCCN 2017034447 (print) | LCCN 2017037005 (ebook) | ISBN 9781510723665 (ebook) | ISBN 9781510723658 (hardcover : alk. paper)
Subjects: LCSH: Omanhene Cocoa Bean Company--History. | Chocolate industry--Ghana. | Ghana--Economic conditions--20th century. | Ghana--Economic conditions--21st century.
Classification: LCC HD9200.G42 (ebook) | LCC HD9200.G42 W35 2017 (print) | DDC 338.1737409667--dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017034447
Cover design by Erin Seaward-Hiatt
Cover photo by iStock
Printed in the United States of America
To Linda B., whose steadfast belief and mirific support
defy any rational expectation.
And to the people of the Republic of Ghana,
who, in ways both modest and magnificent,
taught me most of life’s important lessons.
This book is an expression of my deep affection
for your remarkable country.
Contents
Acknowledgments
A Note from the Author
Foreword Taste the Chocolate
Chapter 1 The Omanhene Idea
Chapter 2 The Summer of 1978
Chapter 3 Dancing Clumsily
Chapter 4 Chicken or Fish?
Chapter 5 The Waiting Game
Chapter 6 Anyone Else Want to Take a Shot at Us?
Chapter 7 The Fancy Food Show
Chapter 8 We’re in Business
Chapter 9 Song of Sarpong
Chapter 10 Judging a Product by Its Package
Chapter 11 Divesting Ghana
Chapter 12 Opening Bids
Chapter 13 Amsterdam Makes an Offer
Chapter 14 Bannerman’s Hope
Chapter 15 Mr. Wallace Goes to Washington
Chapter 16 Back to the Basement
Photos
Acknowledgments
A company twenty-six years in the making owes a prodigious debt to a great many individuals who shared what the Irish call the gift of second sight. They saw the future—or at least they bought into the future that I described. Their enthusiasm buoyed my spirits and lit my path. To those who bought the first production run of Omanhene chocolate, I could hug each and every one of you.
My love to the families of Professor Ansre of the language department at the University of Ghana-Legon, Yaw Brobbey, and Shafik and Ethel Natafgi, who so readily and graciously opened their hearts and homes to their obroni son.
To the volunteers and staff of AFS Intercultural Programs, AFS-USA, and AFS-Ghana for making the world a smaller, safer, and better place. Special thanks to AFSers Mrs. Gladys Osae-Addo, Reverend Setriakor Nyomi, Anne Ebert, and Suzanne Kessler.
To my brother Jonathan Wallace and sister-in-law Ruth Wallace, whose unwavering support and loyalty to the cause is the stuff of legend.
To Kojo Afedzi Hayford and Joyce Hayford, who opened their home and hearts to me; no matter how the Omanhene story ends, having you as a part of my life will have made it all worthwhile.
To Michael Caughlin, Daniel Gyimah, Flt. Lt. Joseph Atiemo (Ret.), Mr. K. B. Simpson, Jeffrey Frank, Ruth Lebed, John Timson, Isaac Osei, William Mensah, Cecilia Dapaah, Hannah Tetteh, Kyeretwie Opoku, Leslie Amissah, Carol Castiel, and Stephanie Zonis, who believed when there was precious little reason to do so.
To Oggie Kim and Anna Leider, who were present at the debut in New York City providing invaluable help at the Fancy Food Show in 1994.
To Peter Krupp and Jeffrey Leavell, who jumped in early and remained steadfastly loyal throughout. To Takeo and Cha Cha Mogami, who brought Omanhene to Japan. To Tony Weber, Bonnie Wolfe, and Judy Alexander.
To David and Maryclare Greif and Scot and Carolyn Trojanowski.
To the many chefs who generously shared their talents with me, often allowing me to work shoulder to shoulder with them in kitchens across the world, Christine McCabe, David Rexford, Peter Sandroni, Sandra Suria, and David Swanson.
To Peter Tichansky and his colleagues at BCIU, the Business Council for International Understanding, and to Franklin Kennedy and the Corporate Council on Africa for courtesies extended at the very beginning of my journey, when I had precious little to contribute to their fine organizations.
To Professors Anani Dzidzienyo, Pat McHugh, and Barrett Hazeltine. To J. Brian Atwood, Alan Harlam, Lizzie Pollack, and Liz Malone.
I count myself lucky indeed to be working with the remarkable Chef François Kwaku-Dongo, whose friendship, optimism, and enthusiasm have forever changed the way I view the world.
To the members of the US Foreign Service, US State Department, US Department of Commerce, Foreign Agriculture Service, US Trade and Development Agency, USAID, and Peace Corps, whose record of service seems to me underappreciated and often misunderstood by many of us at home. These public servants possess impressive language and cross-cultural skills, keen intellects, and unstinting hearts; they do our country proud and represent, for many around the globe, their first and only contact with the United States.
A most heartfelt debt of gratitude to William V. Madison, an extraordinary writer whose prose often compels one to stop and take a breath; he is a perspicacious editor and man of deep sensitivity, generosity, and kindness. Bill first saw the potential of this story and worked selflessly to bring it to fruition, sharing his creativity, talent, and contacts in the literary world. Should you ever have the chance to work with Bill on a literary project, count yourself fortunate indeed. To Bill’s multitalented colleagues that likewise became champions of this book, Elise Goyette, Kara Lack, and Patrick McDonald.
To Rob McQuilkin, my industrious literary agent who believed in this story from the get-go and coaxed it out of me, all the while cosseting me in wise counsel and encouragement; you are in every respect a gentleman in a world sorely lacking. I am singularly fortunate to be working with you, Lexi Wangler, and your talented Massie & McQuilkin team.
To Maxim Brown, my editor at Skyhorse Publishing, both a joy to work with and a sagacious guide; he made this book better at every touchpoint, as did copyeditor Alison Swety.
To my mother, June M. Wallace, and to the memory of my father, David S. Wallace, who believed that the world is a place of possibility, kindness, and wonder, and allowed me to travel to Ghana at the age of 16, when many of their friends surely thought they had taken leave of their senses. My parents believed without hesitation in their firstborn son—perhaps not so remarkable in and of itself, but they also b
elieved in my dream—quite another thing altogether, and they did not once dissuade.
To my family, Linda E. Benfield, Hannah B. Wallace, Josh B. Wallace, and Benjamin B. Wallace, who indulged me for long years on this project and brought me joy at every step of the journey.
A Note from the Author
This is a true story. I have changed the names of certain individuals and institutions (including multinational corporations) out of a sense of respect for those who value their privacy and did not intend to be the focus of this narrative—people who wish simply to live quiet lives—and in the case of certain corporate entities, to protect myself from those with a penchant for litigation.
Baabi w ka asem sere no, no w ka su w baabi.
A matter that makes people laugh in one place, makes people wail someplace else.
—Traditional Twi Proverb
FOREWORD
Taste the Chocolate
You may have eaten chocolate all your life. But chances are you have never tasted it. That’s a shame, because chocolate is one of life’s great pleasures and one of society’s permissible vices. So, let’s stop and taste the chocolate.
First, check the label to see where the chocolate bar has been manufactured. Ask most people where good chocolate comes from and they will say Switzerland or, if they fancy themselves especially posh, France or Belgium.
A bar of Omanhene chocolate says, “Made in Ghana.”
Now look at the list of ingredients. You should be able to pronounce everything on the list. Remember, fine dark chocolate contains only four ingredients: cocoa liquor (the intense, bitter, nonalcoholic essence of the cocoa bean); cocoa butter (a flavorless, odorless fat that imparts the smoothness or “mouthfeel” to the chocolate bar); sugar; and a trace amount of lecithin, a soy-based substance that looks like molasses and acts as an emulsifier—that is, it binds the cocoa liquor and cocoa butter together, and keeps them from separating. If you’re tasting milk chocolate, then yes, in addition to the four main ingredients, it should contain milk. But that’s it. There should be no colorings, no chemicals, no artificial ingredients of any kind.
Let the bar come to room temperature, then unwrap it. Observe the color of the chocolate. Milk chocolates tend toward lighter café au lait or caramel colors, and dark chocolates are, well, darker in color—deep, luxurious browns. Be wary of colors that simply don’t look natural or appropriate. There shouldn’t be a white powder or “bloom” on the surface of the chocolate. Bloom occurs when the cocoa liquor and cocoa butter separate, and the butter has risen to the surface of the bar. The physics of chocolate is such that the liquor and butter exhibit a sort of culinary entropy; over time they want to separate with the conspicuousness of oil and vinegar.
Now, using both hands, take the bar between the thumb and forefinger at opposite ends, and briskly snap the bar in half. Listen. Fine chocolate should give a satisfying snap. Study the fault line along the break: the chocolate face should be smooth. You don’t want the chocolate to crumble. Neither should it be unduly soft.
Smell the chocolate. Inhale along the surface of the break. The aroma should be pleasing. It should smell like cocoa. If you try comparing several different chocolate bars at one sampling, you likely will notice quite a difference in aromas. What you don’t want, though, is any sort of chemical or plastic smell—or a curious lack of aroma altogether.
Fine chocolate melts at body temperature. This indicates that the chocolatier hasn’t skimped on cocoa butter, one of the most expensive ingredients in a chocolate bar. If you hold the chocolate in your hand for a minute or so, you should notice that it begins to melt. This body-temperature melting point is a key sign of quality. Some chocolate makers substitute a bit of vegetable oil or other types of fat to save money, and this will change the telltale melting point.
Now you are ready to taste the chocolate. Bite off a corner of the bar. Hold this morsel on your tongue for a moment before chewing, and gently press it against the roof of your mouth. You want the sharp corners of your chocolate fragment to begin to soften. Again, fine chocolate melts at body temperature, and the chocolate should begin to dissolve just slightly on your tongue.
Now chew it. Taste is entirely subjective; texture is not. You should not feel a waxy presence on the roof of your mouth, nor should the texture be especially granular. Smoothness is key. A creamy texture is another indication that the chocolatier hasn’t skimped on cocoa butter.
Savor the chocolate. Do you sense a slight, subtle, fruity aftertaste? Especially fresh, natural chocolate will result in an aftertaste that may hint of tart raspberries, say, or the piquancy of currants. Very fresh beans, not having been subjected to a six-week ocean voyage before processing as they transit from West Africa, for example, to Switzerland, naturally possess that fruity grace note. They contain no artificial flavors—because they do not need them.
Now you know …
Deε ksee sε tromoo brεbo εdε no, wndi ngya no.
The one who told his mates the liver of the bush cow is a delicacy, must partake in the feast.
“We must pay the forerunner the honor due to him.”
CHAPTER 1
The Omanhene Idea
I have a chocolate company in Africa, near the foot of the Mampong Hills. I named it the Omanhene Cocoa Bean Company; Omanhene is the word in Twi, one of the major languages in Ghana, for “paramount chief” or “king.” Our production facility squats forlornly in what’s known as the Tema Heavy Industrial Area, in the artificially created port city of Tema, in Ghana, West Africa. The name alone tells you much about the history of the area. Tema was transformed during Ghana’s ebullient, post-independence era of the late 1950s and early 1960s, when Five-Year Economic Plans heisted from the Soviet Union were all the fashion, and many senior Ghanaian ministers were treated to advanced degrees in Marxist-Leninist dialectics from Moscow University. Dredging a new deepwater port out of the shifting fluvio-deltaic sands of the Bight of Benin was not too ambitious a plan for a country brimming with optimism and postcolonial swagger.
That was a long time ago. Ghana was the Black Star of Africa, and heartily sick of kowtowing to Her Majesty. For savvy, charismatic Kwame Nkrumah—one of the Big Six, those dapper, London educated gents who became the founders of modern Ghana—Pan-Africanism wasn’t big enough. Nkrumah was a principal advocate for the Non-Aligned Movement, that sprawling collection of postcolonial countries that found purpose and profit trafficking between the United States and the Soviet Union—like children of divorced parents, trying to curry favor and play the one off the other for financial and emotional well-being. I’m being only a bit cynical. Nkrumah famously said, “We look neither to the right nor to the left. We look forward.” But he certainly enjoyed courting favors from both sides. Since Ghana’s independence, the very word “Nkrumah” has commandeered a casual, imprecise ubiquity in modern speech. Nkrumah this. Nkrumah that. To this day, people still debate which current Ghanaian presidential candidate is the true Nkrumist (never “Nkrumah-ist” for some reason), as if we could ever know.
I am skeptical—and tired, frankly—of companies that claim to make the best chocolate or use the best cocoa beans, as if this were something that can be tested objectively or quantitatively. The word “best” rings hollow. Taste is subjective. Attributes of chocolate that connoisseurs adore may hold only passing regard to me. Still—and please indulge me here—it is fair to say that by many accounts, Ghana indeed grows some of the world’s finest cocoa beans. They often fetch a premium over the benchmark Ivory Coast standard when traded on the international cocoa exchanges in London and New York. That’s a quantitative measure of value. The venerable Financial Times some years ago touted Ghana as growing “the finest cocoa in the world,” an endorsement by a respected, independent, honest broker. Not only does Ghana grow cocoa that is very good, it grows lots of it. Ghana has traded places, over the decades, with its Francophone sibling, Ivory Coast, as the largest exporter of cocoa beans on the planet.
Mention the word “cartel” and most people think of OPEC, the Organization of the Petroleum Exporting Countries, and the way it has, for most of its existence, skillfully manipulated the price of oil. Contrary to popular perceptions, OPEC includes countries as far removed from the Middle East as Ecuador; it comprises twelve countries that together control some 34 percent of the world’s oil supply. Put another way, 66 percent of the world’s petroleum lies outside of OPEC. The cartel does not control even half of the world’s oil reserves.
Contrast petroleum with cocoa. Just two countries, Ghana and Ivory Coast, together account for a tad over 64 percent of the world’s supply of cocoa. I’ve suggested, only half-jokingly, to the Ghana Cocoa Board (the national, quasi-ministry responsible for maximizing cocoa revenues and safeguarding the nation’s cocoa industry) that the two countries should mend their postcolonial cocoa rivalry and behave more like a cartel, if they are serious about raising the wages of West African cocoa farmers. Happily, for chocolate consumers, no one at the Ghana Cocoa Board has taken my advice. As it is, Ghana (a former British colony) and Ivory Coast (Côte d’Ivoire, a former French colony) are locked in an annual competitive struggle to outdo each other for the crown of world’s largest cocoa grower. This bilateral cocoa rivalry plays right into the hands of Big Cocoa, the three largest multinational cocoa processors: Roissy-Doucette, MacFinn, and V.S. Hope & Company. These corporations love nothing more than to see the two largest cocoa-growing countries engaged in a mad race to overproduce—an exercise that ultimately drives down the world price for raw cocoa beans, regardless of origin.
Truth be told, Ghana cocoa beans differ slightly from those exported from Ivory Coast. In most cases, a cocoa processor first needs to dry and clean Ivoirian cocoa beans, while beans from Ghana can go straight to roasting, since the Ghana Cocoa Board requires their top tier beans to be dried and cleaned prior to marketing them to customers.