Clarks: Made to Last
Page 36
In the mid-1970s, Clarks commissioned Pentagram, one of the UK’s most successful design consultancies, to overhaul the design of shoeboxes, point-of-sale material and the whole presentation of the brand. The design policy for children’s shoes was a high priority. This in-store poster encapsulates Pentagram’s colourful, up-to-date approach.
The 1970s Pentagram redesign of children’s shoeboxes, using a brighter green, strong colours and bold, geometric shapes (at right), replaced the classic, more muted style of the 1950s and 1960s, such as this shoebox for the classic Le Touquet sandal (above).
Even the footgauge was redesigned by Pentagram, using the same attractive primary colours and building-block shapes in order to appeal to children as much as their parents.
A 1979 press advertisement for Polyveldt-based shoes – flexible, durable, light and extremely popular. But they came in for criticism in the 1980s and 1990s, when they were perceived as being bland and lacking in style.
The Jack Nano and Daisy ‘Magic Steps’ children’s shoes were introduced in 2010 and 2007 respectively. The vigorous marketing material seen here appeared in 2011.
Endorsement by celebrities remains as important as ever. A young David Beckham wears the Clarks Cica Blades range in the mid-1990s (above), while Iain Percy and Andrew Simpson, winners of Olympic medals in 2008 and 2012, were featured heavily in the year of the London Olympics.
The Desert Boot, seen above in a customised Union jack design, is indelibly associated with the Clarks brand, and has been enthusiastically worn by successive generations of style-setters and role models. Below left: Florence Welch, of Florence and the Machine (seen here at the Glastonbury Festival in 2010) wears a pair of Desert Yarra, the Desert Boot derivative on a wedge heel designed by Marijke Bruggink. Below right: Noel Gallagher, formerly of Oasis, is featured on the front cover of the November 2012 issue of Q magazine in a lived-in pair of regular Desert Boots.
Style and elegance continue to be the keynotes for Clarks shoes for women, and also for the design of contemporary Clarks shopfronts and instore displays, as seen in the example below of the 2012 C7 redesign. Above left: a contemporary women’s classic, the bestselling Bombay Light, introduced in 2007. Above right: marketing material for the range designed in collaboration with Mary Portas, the ‘Queen of Shops’, who has been associated with Clarks since the 1990s.
The family-owned and UK-based firm of Clarks has a strong presence worldwide. Turnover in North America is second only to the UK, supported by high-quality marketing: this advertisement ran in US Vogue in 2011.
The autumn and winter 2012 UK press and poster campaign, including this widely seen image, was an example of Clarks emphasising itself as a younger, more fashion-conscious brand.
Up-to-date technology combined with enduring values: the Clarks world footgauge uses the latest digital technology to ensure comfort and the right fit.
Appendices
Appendix 1
A Clarks chronology
1801
Cyrus Clark born.
1811
James Clark born.
1821
Cyrus Clark forms partnership with Arthur Clothier in woollen business.
1825
Partnership dissolved; Cyrus sets up on his own making sheepskin products.
1828
James Clark apprenticed to his brother Cyrus and soon after makes slippers from sheepskin offcuts.
1833
James enters partnership with Cyrus.
1842
Clarks rescued by loans from local Quakers.
1851
Clarks exhibits at Great Exhibition.
1855
William Stephens Clark joins business, aged 16.
First last-making machine acquired; by this date all Clarks ladies’ boots were available in a range of sizes and widths.
1856
Singer sewing machine introduced on trial.
1858
James Clark imports machine to cut soles.
1863
Trust deed signed by Quakers who had lent the company money. William Stephens Clark put in charge of the business as a condition of the loan, aged 24.
1866
Cyrus Clark dies.
1870
Clark, Son & Morland founded to continue the sheepskin business.
1871
Most loans made in 1863 repaid.
1873
New partnership between William and James.
1880
All-out strike over implementation of use of new machines, key to profitability of company at this time.
1884
John Bright Clark joins the company.
1888
Roger Clark joins the company, aged 17.
1889
James Clark retires. New partnership between William and his brother Frank Clark.
1891
Appointment of sales agent in South Africa.
1893
Alice Clark joins the company.
Carton-making department set up; shoes sold in boxes.
1896
Opening of the ‘big room’, an open-plan room in the factory for all shoe-making processes.
1897
First joint venture in retailing with McAfee in London’s West End.
1903
C. & J. Clark becomes a limited company; first step in process of splitting management from ownership.
1904
Hugh B. Clark joins the company.
1906
James Clark dies.
1908
John Walter Bostock joins Clarks from Northampton as production superintendent.
W. S. Clark 1908 Trust created by William Stephens Clark for benefit of employees, providing education, relief in need, etc. First London showroom in Shaftesbury Avenue.
1912
Wilfred Hinde sent to USA to study the ‘factory system’.
1913
Formation of Street Shoemakers Provident Benefit Society.
1914
More than 1 million pairs of shoes made.
Day release for children between 14 and 16 agreed.
1919
Formation of Factory Committee or Works Council.
1924
New library built for Street.
1925
William Stephens Clark dies.
Centenary pension fund created for benefit of employees; pension provision for employees continues to be developed.
1933
John Bright Clark dies.
First national advertising campaign.
1935
First purchase of chain of retail shops.
1936
Clarks handwritten logo introduced by Bancroft Clark.
1937
Peter Lord chain of branded shops started.
Opening of Greenbank swimming pool in Street, funded by a legacy from Alice Clark.
1938
Frank Clark dies and Roger Clark becomes chairman.
Joint venture with J. Halliday and Sons of Dundalk, Ireland, to make shoes for Clarks.
1942
Bancroft Clark becomes chairman.
1943
Clarks makes wooden-soled shoes because of wartime shortage of leather.
1945
First wholly owned Clarks factory outside Street opened in Bridgwater.
1946
Footgauges introduced in shops.
Fact-finding visit to USA to examine shoe production.
1947
Princess Elizabeth and Princess Margaret seen wearing Clarks shoes on South African tour.
1949
First Desert Boot sold.
1950
First range of shoes for teenagers.
1953
CEMA (for moulding rubber soles to uppers) production started.
1956
First IBM computer acquired, allowing better control of sales and stocks.
1959
Bancroft Clark goes on fact-finding miss
ion to Russia. Clark Foundation established.
1960
Peter Lord opens in Oxford Street, London.
1963
Management consultants McKinsey hired.
1964
Clarks TV commercials with James Bond theme.
1967
Bancroft retires; Tony Clark becomes chairman and Peter Clothier managing director.
1973
Clarks ceases making unbranded shoes (except for small amounts in Ireland).
Peter Clothier retires as managing director.
1974
Clarks shoe museum opens in Street.
Tony Clark retires as chairman and Daniel Clark become chairman and managing director.
Collett Dickenson Pearce (CDP) hired as advertising agents.
1975
150th anniversary celebrations.
Appointment of manager to source shoes made by other manufacturers.
1976
Clarksport launched (ended 1978).
1977
Purchase of Hanover Shoe Company, manufacturer and retailer, in USA.
Clarks start making ‘Levis for feet’ under licence (until 1987).
‘Shoemaster’ CAD/CAM software installed.
1978
Closure of Silflex factory (the ‘big room’) in Street.
1980
Purchase of K Shoes.
1984
First Clarks branded shops opened.
£3 million extension to Bullmead warehouse, Street.
Closure of Dundalk factory, Ireland.
1985
Tony Clark dies.
George Probert appointed group managing director.
1986
Joint venture with Pinto de Oliveira to make shoes in Portugal (until 2001).
1987
Daniel Clark retires as chairman, replaced by Lawrence Tindale, first non-family chairman.
George Probert retires as group managing director, replaced by John Clothier.
1988
Purchase of Rohan (sold 2007).
1990
One-third of Clarks shoes made abroad.
1991
Lawrence Tindale retires as chairman, replaced by Walter Dickson.
1992
Extraordinary General Meeting in Glastonbury to appoint new chairman (adjourned).
1993
Offer for the company by Berisfords rejected.
Walter Dickson retires as chairman, replaced by Roger Pedder. Bancroft Clark dies.
1995
Tim Parker appointed as chief executive.
2002
Tim Parker stands down as chief executive, replaced by Peter Bolliger.
2005
Last pair of Somerset-made Clarks shoes produced at Dowlish Ford on 15 March.
New Westway distribution centre opened.
2006
Last pair of UK-made Clarks shoes produced in Cumbria at Millom works (closed in August).
Roger Pedder retires as chairman, replaced by Peter Davies.
2008
Start of multi-channel retailing (including internet selling).
2010
Peter Bolliger retires as chief executive, replaced by Melissa Potter.
Appendix 2
The Clark family
(showing family members named in the text)
This family tree does not attempt to include all members of the Clark family. Members of recent generations not named here and who have worked at Clarks or served on the shareholder council are listed in Appendix 3.
Appendix 3
Other Clark family members
Current members of the Clark family who are not shown on the family tree in Appendix 2 but who have worked at Clarks or served on the shareholder council include:
Tim Campbell – son-in-law of Lance Clark; shareholder council; family non-executive director.
Adrian Brooking Clark – son of H. Brooking Clark; worked at Clarks.
Alice Clark – daughter of Stephen Clark; shareholder council.
Asher Clark – grandson of Tony Clark; shareholder council.
Cyrus Clark – son of Tony Clark; worked at Clarks; shareholder council.
Galahad Clark – grandson of Tony Clark; shareholder council.
Gloria Clark – daughter of Daniel Clark; worked at Clarks; shareholder council.
James Clark – son of Richard Clark; shareholder council.
Jan Clark – son of Jan Clark; worked at Clarks.
Joey Clark – grandson of Tony Clark; shareholder council.
John Clark – son of Richard Clark; shareholder council.
Peter Clark – son of Jan Clark; shareholder council.
Alex Clothier – grandson of Peter Clothier; shareholder council.
Gay Edwards – daughter of Peter Clothier; shareholder council.
Sebastian Edwards – grandson of Peter Clothier; worked at Clarks; shareholder council.
Bevis Gillett – grandson of Margaret Gillett; shareholder council.
Helen Gillett – great-granddaughter of Margaret Gillett; shareholder council.
Jan Gillett – grandson of Margaret Gillett; shareholder council.
Eleanor Gould – daughter of Caroline Gould; shareholder council.
Matthew Hall – son of Harriet Hall; shareholder council.
Adrian Little – son-in-law of Peter Clothier; shareholder council.
Martin Lovell – son of Mary Lovell; works at Clarks; shareholder council.
Ben Messer Bennetts – grandson-in-law of Hugh Clark; shareholder council.
Geoffrey Pedder – son of Roger and Sibella Pedder; works at Clarks.
Irene Pedder – daughter of Roger and Sibella Pedder; worked at Clarks; shareholder council.
Hester Pelly – granddaughter of Tony Clark; shareholder council.
Roger Pym – grandson of Tony Clark; worked at Clarks; shareholder council.
James Robertson – son of Eleanor Robertson; worked at Clarks; shareholder council.
Robert Robertson – son of Eleanor Robertson; worked at Clarks.
Roger Robertson – son of Eleanor Robertson; worked at Clarks.
Martha Stewart – granddaughter of Mary Lovell; shareholder council.
Roger Sylvester – grandson of Bancroft Clark; shareholder council.
Tamzin Trickey – great-granddaughter of Hugh Clark; shareholder council.
Alice Wakeford – daughter of Daniel Clark; worked at Clarks; shareholder council.
George Wakeford – grandson of Daniel Clark; shareholder council.
Roger White – grandson of Stephen Clark; shareholder council.
Appendix 4
An exceptional resource: the Clarks archive
THE REMARKABLE AND EXTENSIVE HERITAGE collections associated with the Clark family and C. & J. Clark Ltd are looked after by the Alfred Gillett Trust. Under the care of a team of professional archivists, who manage and provide access to the collections, this unique archive is now largely open to the public for the first time in its history.
An innovative new building has recently been constructed by the Trust at The Grange in Street, adjacent to the historic Clarks factory building, to house the collections. Accessible as never before, and providing fascinating opportunities for social, historical and business research, this archive represents an exceptional resource of real value and interest. As a major employer, the high profile and presence of Clarks within the locality is reflected in a rich collection which encompasses business history and the history of the Clark family, as well as Quaker history and many aspects of local history.
The business archive is extensive, containing records relating specifically to the commercial activities of C. & J. Clark Ltd and its subsidiary companies, including financial records, annual reports and papers relating to family and non-family directors. Papers of acquired companies such as K Shoes Ltd (Kendal) and John Halliday & Sons (Dundalk, Ireland) are also represented, as well as allied concerns such as the Avalon Leather Board and C
lark, Son & Morland. Reflecting Clarks’ position as a major landowner in Street, a significant collection of plans documents the development of the town itself (including workers’ cottages and civic buildings such as the Crispin Hall) as well as factories elsewhere in the southwest and beyond.
The heritage holdings relating to shoes are comprehensive. A full range of Clarks shoe catalogues dating back to 1848 gives an invaluable insight into the development of shoes by the company up to the present day. Similarly, a rich collection of point-of-sale advertising materials illustrates trends in advertising and retail merchandising, with strong holdings from the early 20th century. Over 500 shoemaking machines also form part of the archives, with the earliest dating to the late nineteenth century.
The historic shoe collection forms a focal point, with a small fraction (some 1,500 items) on permanent display in the firm’s Shoe Museum at 40 High Street, Street, including a nineteenth-century facsimile of the firm’s earliest shoe, the 1829 ‘Brown Petersburg’. The Alfred Gillett Trust is responsible for the remainder of the collection held in store, which provides a unique record of Clarks shoes up to the present day. Shoes from elsewhere within the UK and around the world are also represented, with the earliest examples dating from the Roman period. In all, the shoe collection contains nearly 20,000 single shoes, making it one of the finest collections in the UK.