flesh), scoop the flesh out in one swoop.
At this point, you should be able to
easily separate the slices or dice.
64 leafy salads
c h a p t e r t h r e e
vegetable
& fruit
salads
Making a beautiful salad, like cooking in
general, is a creative process. One of the things I enjoy most
is the series of aesthetic decisions presented along the way,
especially with vegetables and fruit. For instance, should beets
be cut into jewels, coins, or half-moons? Should an avocado be
sliced or diced, or spooned into rustic chunks? Decisions like
these are up to the cook.
Before you start cooking (or cutting), read the recipe and
think it through. Visualize how you want the salad to look on
the plate, and consider how a particular cut will affect the salad’s
taste and texture. Think, too, about how the size and shape of
the cut will impact the way the salad is eaten.
An herb salad with oranges, for example, can be arranged in a number of ways. When cut into rounds, the citrus will provide a foundation for the
herbs and reveal the pinwheel shape and look of the oranges, which can be
pretty. When cut into segments, the citrus can be placed here and there in the salad, supported by the herbs, which makes it a more integral part of the salad.
Segments are easy to eat with a fork, whereas rounds often need to be cut into bite-size pieces. There’s generally not a right or wrong approach as long as you season and dress the salad carefully.
Cutting Vegetables and Fruit
There are a number of terms that describe the various ways you can cut fruits
and vegetables. Regardless of the cut, be sure to use a sharp knife. See the chart on p. location for some of the cuts you’ll find used in the recipes in this book.
dice
You can cut any vegetable or fruit into dice, another name for cubes. Consider the size you want. For a 1⁄4-inch dice, for example, cut the vegetable into
1⁄4-inch-thick slices (sheets). Cut the slices crosswise into batons that are 1⁄4 inch thick, then cut the batons crosswise into dice.
Matchsticks
To form matchsticks, cut the vegetable or fruit into about 1⁄8-inch-thick slices (sheets), and trim to the length you want. Neatly stack the slices, then cut them lengthwise into 1⁄8-inch-thick matchsticks.
batons
Cut the vegetable or fruit into slices (sheets) as thick as you want and trim to the length you want. Then cut the slices lengthwise into batons that are the same
width and thickness, like large matchsticks.
Julienne
Cut the fruit or vegetable into very thin slices (sheets) and trim to the length you want. Neatly stack the slices, then cut the slices crosswise (or lengthwise) into very thin strips.
roll cut
This cut is typically used on carrots or parnips. Hold your knife at an angle and trim the bottom end of the carrot (for instance). Roll the carrot a quarter-turn, and cut at an angle into the length you want (generally between 1⁄2 and 1 inch long). Continue to roll and cut the carrot at an angle until you reach the
opposite end. If the carrot is significantly thicker toward the top, cut that part of the carrot in half lengthwise, and continue to roll and cut in the same manner.
Jewels
Jewels are small to medium-size, irregular shapes—like jewels. I use this cut most frequently for beets, which look very much like jewels when cut in this manner.
You can cut jewels in a number of ways—it’s not an exact cut. Cut the fruit or vegetable into slices or wedges that are the approximate width that you want. If working with a slice, cut crosswise into batons that are the same width. Then
cut crosswise at an angle into jewels. If working with a wedge, cut crosswise at an angle (or various angles) into jewels.
coins or rounds
Making simple round slices of any width or size is one of the most basic cuts and works best with spherical fruits and vegetables (coins are small rounds).
bias or angle cuts
Cutting fruits or vegetables at an angle is a simple way to enhance their shape.
You can hold your knife at various angles, both slight and sharp, to achieve
different cuts.
wedges
Cut spherical fruits and vegetables in half, then cut at an angle into wedges—
shapes with a thick end and a tapering thin edge—to the thickness you want.
half-Moons
Cut fruits or vegetables crosswise into round slices, then cut crosswise into
half-moons.
ovals
Holding your knife at an angle, slice round or elongated fruits or vegetables
crosswise into ovals.
A ppl es & pe A rs
Slices; dice; matchsticks; wedges
A s pA r Ag us
Short cross-cut; short/long bias cut; left whole
Avo c A d os
Slices; dice; rustic, spooned chunks
B e e ts
Coins; dice; jewels; wedges; halves (appropriate for baby beets)
Slices (particularly appropriate for roasted broccoli and
B ro cco l i & c Au l i flow e r
cauliflower salads); tree tops (see p. XX)
B russ e l s s pro u ts
Halves; wedges; slices; shaved
c A r rots
Coins; ovals; dice; rounds; julienne; matchsticks; batons; rol cut
c e l e ry
Dice; simple cross-cut; long, slender half-ovals
Rounds (slices); segments; Meyer lemons with a thin rind can
c i t rus
also be cut into tiny dice or wedges (with the pith) and folded
into vinaigrettes and salsas
cu cum B e rs
Dice; half-moons; long, slender half-ovals (angle cut); batons
eg g pl A n t
Slices (round/oval); dice; strips
fe n n e l
Dice; crosswise or lengthwise slice wedges; shaved (see p. xx)
g r e e n B e A ns
Short cross-cut; long bias cut; left whole
l e e ks
Dice; half-moon slices; cross-cut (rings); julienne
pe Ac h es, n ec tA r i n es & plum s
Slices; dice; jewels wedges; rustic chunks
p otAto es
Dice; coins or rounds (slices); wedges; halves; rustic chunks
Coins; ovals; fine dice; wedges; julienne, left whole or halved
r A d is h es
(leaves attached)
Coins or rounds (slices); ovals; dice; lengthwise slices; jewels;
sum m e r s q uA s h
wedges; rustic chunks; matchsticks; batons
tom Ato es
Dice; rounds (slices); wedges; jewels; rustic chunks
w i n t e r s q uA s h
Dice; crosswise or lengthwise slices; wedges; rustic chunks
roasted asparagus and frisée with
poached eggs and romesco sauce
24 medium to large asparagus spears
1⁄2 cup romesco sauce (p. XX)
4 eggs
2 tablespoons plus 1⁄2 cup extra-virgin
21⁄2 teaspoons red-wine vinegar; more as
4 to 8 thin slices serrano ham
olive oil
needed
or prosciutto, for serving (optional)
kosher salt
4 small handfuls frisée (pale center leaves),
about 4 ounces total, washed and dried
This salad is delicious with parboiled and roasted baby leeks instead of the asparagus, or a combination of asparagus and leeks. To grill the asparagus, see the variation, on p. 72.
Romesco sauce is a little labor intensive, but it’s well worth the effort. Make it in advance—it keeps well in the refr
igerator. The recipe on p. 73 makes more than you will need, but you’ll be happy to have extra.
I prefer poached eggs warm, which requires that you plate the frisée and
asparagus just before you poach the eggs, so that you can serve the salad as soon as the eggs come out of the water. You can also poach the eggs in advance and
immediately chill them in ice water for a couple of minutes. Then, remove the eggs from the water, blot dry, and store in the refrigerator until shortly before serving.
Be sure to serve this salad with crusty bread, to mop up the delicious oil on
the plate.
serves 4
Heat the oven to 450°F.
Grasp an asparagus spear with both hands and snap it in two; it will
naturally separate at the point where the stalk becomes tender. Trim
the remaining spears to the same length. (Or, if you enjoy snapping
asparagus, as I do, snap all of the spears by hand.) Discard the tough
bottom ends. If necessary, lightly peel about two-thirds of the spear with
a vegetable peeler. (If the asparagus is very fresh and tender, this step is
often unnecessary.)
Put the asparagus on a baking sheet, drizzle with about 2 tablespoons of
olive oil, and toss to lightly coat. Spread the asparagus in a single layer and season with salt. Roast until just tender—it should still have a little bite—
about 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the spears. Set aside at
continued on page 72
vegetable & fruit salads 71
continued from page 71
room temperature.
Put the romesco sauce, the remaining 1⁄2 cup olive oil, and 11⁄2 teaspoons
of the vinegar in a small bowl and stir to combine. Taste and add salt or
vinegar if necessary. Set aside at room temperature.
Shortly before you are ready to serve, fill a straight-sided, heavy sauté pan
with about 3 inches of water and bring to a simmer.
Meanwhile, scatter the frisée on a platter or individual plates, season
lightly with salt, and arrange the asparagus spears on top.
Add the remaining 1 teaspoon vinegar to the simmering water. Crack the
eggs, one at a time, into a teacup and gently slide them into the water.
Gently simmer the eggs until they are done to your liking, 3 to 5 minutes.
Remove the eggs from the water with a slotted spoon and blot off any
excess water with a clean, lint-free kitchen towel. (For a neater appearance,
trim the eggs as well.) Prop the eggs on top of the asparagus, season with
salt and pepper, and spoon the romesco sauce on and around the salad.
Drape the Serrano ham or proscuitto on the side, or arrange on a platter
and pass at the table. Serve immediately.
variation
• To grill the asparagus, prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or heat a gas grill. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with a generous amount of salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Parboil the asparagus until crisp-tender, about 1 minute. Remove the spears from the water (this step is easiest with a stainless-steel spider or strainer), and spread them on a baking sheet to dry and cool at room temperature. Shortly before you are ready to serve, drizzle about 2 tablespoons olive oil over the asparagus and toss to lightly coat. Spread the asparagus in a single layer and season lightly with salt. Place the asparagus on the grill crosswise and cook, turning once or twice, until the spears are nicely marked, 11⁄2 to 2 minutes per side.
noTe: If your asparagus is thin, it’s not necessary to parboil the spears before gril ing.
72 vegetable & fruit salads
romesco sauce
1 medium ancho chile, stem and seeds removed
1⁄2 cup peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoes (fresh or canned)
3⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more for drizzling
one 1⁄2-inch thick slice white country-style bread, cut crosswise into 3 pieces 1 picquillo pepper, or 1 medium red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, and seeded 1⁄2 cup blanched almonds or hazelnuts, or a combination, lightly toasted (see p. XX) 2 cloves garlic, pounded to a smooth paste with a pinch of salt
1 teaspoon pimentón dulce, or sweet paprika; more as needed
1⁄2 teaspoon hot pimentón, or cayenne; more as needed
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegear; more as needed
11⁄2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
kosher salt
Makes about 11⁄4 cups
Position a rack in the top of the oven and heat the broiler.
Put the ancho chile in a small bowl and cover with boiling water. Let soak
until plump, about 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.
Put the tomatoes in a small baking dish, drizzle with a little oil, and place
under the broiler until slightly charred, about 3 minutes. Remove from the
oven and set aside.
Warm a small (6-inch) sauté pan over medium heat and add 1⁄2 cup of the
olive oil. When the oil is hot (the bread should just sizzle on contact), add
the bread and reduce the heat to medium low. Gently fry the bread on both
sides until crisp and golden. (You don’t want it too dark.) Remove the bread
from the pan and drain on a paper towel.
In the work bowl of a food processor, put the chile, tomatoes, fried bread,
piquillo pepper, nuts, and garlic. Pulse at first, then grind to a chunky
paste, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally. Add the sweet and
hot paprika, both vinegars, and the remaining 1⁄4 cup olive oil, and season
with salt. Process again and taste; the sauce should be sweet (not too spicy)
and nutty, with a nice balance of acidity. Let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes
to allow the flavors to come together, then taste again and add more salt,
vinegar, and/or a touch more spice if necessary.
vegetable & fruit salads 73
warm young artichoke
and potato salad
11⁄2 pounds small, waxy potatoes,
11⁄2 pounds baby artichokes, trimmed
1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
such as yellow finn, yukon gold,
(see p. XX)
2 handfuls arugula, about 21⁄2 ounces,
german Butterball, or Bintje, peeled
1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
washed and dried
1 lemon, halved, plus 1 tablespoom freshly
olive oil; more as needed
chunk of parmigiano-reggiano,
squeezed juice; more as needed
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
for shaving
add substance
Unlike potatoes in traditional potato salads, the potatoes and artichokes in this serve with skirt steak (see p. XX for
salad are browned together on the stovetop and served with lightly dressed arugula cooking instructions).
and parsley and curls of shaved Parmigiano-Regianno. It’s a savory and satisfying combination. You can also add a handful of rinsed and pitted black olives, such as Niçoise.
Look for tender baby artichokes. The smallest specimens have no choke and require very little paring. You can eat the stem and all.
serves 4
Cut the potatoes in half or quarters, depending on their size, then put
them in a medium (3- to 4-quart) pot and add cold water to cover.
Add a generous amount of salt to the water—it should taste almost like
seawater. Bring to a simmer, uncovered, then reduce the heat to maintain
a gentle simmer and cook, stirring once or twice, until the potatoes are
just tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Check for doneness from time to time by
piercing with a small, sharp knife. Drain well and spread out on a baking
sheet to cool.
Fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze the juice of the lemon halves
into it. Slice the trimmed artichokes lengthwise into 1⁄2-inch-thick wedges,
then add to the water to prevent them from turning brown.
Drain the artichokes well and pat dry with a lint-free kitchen towel. Heat a
large skillet over high heat. Add 1⁄2 cup oil and the artichokes, season with
salt, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the potatoes. Reduce the heat to
medium high and cook until the artichokes are tender and both vegetables
74 vegetable & fruit salads
are nicely browned, about 10 minutes. Clear a space in the center of the
pan, add a tablespoon of oil and the garlic, and sauté just until you smell
the garlic, about 30 seconds. (The garlic tastes best if it sautés quickly,
directly on the pan, rather than on the vegetables.) Gently stir or toss the
vegetables into the garlic, transfer to a baking sheet, and let cool slightly.
Put the arugula and parsley in a medium bowl and season with salt. Drizzle
the greens with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon
lemon juice. Gently toss to combine, taste, and add more salt, lemon
juice, or oil if necessary. Scatter about half of the greens on a platter or
individual plates, and distribute the potatoes and artichokes on top. Then
scatter the remaining greens on and around the salad. Finish with several
large, thick curls of shaved Parmigiano-Regiano. Serve immediately.
basic skills
to clean and pare an artichoke, cut
off the top quarter of the artichoke, and
trim the stem to about 2 inches long.
(If the stem is fibrous, cut it off at the
base.) Hold the artichoke with the stem
end toward you and begin snapping
off the tough outer leaves. Continue to
work your way around the artichoke
until you reach the tender, pale green
leaves. Using a smal , sharp knife, peel
the stem and the base of the artichoke.
Then cut the artichoke in half and scoop
out the choke with a spoon. Artichokes
oxidize quickly so drop them into
acidulated water as you trim them. Fill a
large bowl with cold water. Squeeze the
juice of a lemon into it or add a couple
tablespoons of vinegar. Once trimmed,
drop the artichoke into the water.
Salad for Dinner Page 10