vegetable & fruit salads 75
spring niçoise salad
1 lemon, halved, plus 1 tablespoon
3⁄4 pound new potatoes
freshly ground black pepper
freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 clove garlic, pounded to a smooth
2 not-so-hard-cooked eggs
8 baby artichokes, trimmed (see p. XX)
paste with a pinch of salt
(see p. XX), peeled
1 cup plus 4 tablespoons extra-virgin
1 tablespoon dijon mustard
1 handful arugula, preferably wild, or
olive oil
1
young dandelion (about 1 ounce total),
1⁄2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar;
washed and dried
1⁄4 cup dry white wine
more as needed
2 sprigs fresh thyme
egg yolk from 1 large egg
6 baby beets, roasted, peeled, cut into
1⁄2-inch wedges, and lightly pickled
crushed red pepper flakes
1 pound tuna, such as yellowfin or ahi,
(see p. XX)
kosher salt
cut into even slices about 1 inch thick
This salad is best in spring, when tiny new potatoes—sometimes called marble
potatoes—and baby artichokes and beets are available at the market. It comes
together quickly if you prepare some of the ingredients ahead of time. Cook the new potatoes, artichokes, beets, and eggs up to a day in advance, but wait to make the vinaigrette shortly before serving. If you refrigerate any element, be sure to let it come to room temperature before finishing the salad.
When roasting the potatoes, you can add a handful of garlic cloves and/or herbs, such as thyme or savory, if you like. In place of the seared tuna, try large flakes of tuna confit (see p. XX) or slow-roasted salmon (see p. XX).
serves 4
Heat the oven to 400°F.
Fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze the juice of the lemon halves
into it; add the artichokes to prevent them from turning brown.
Just before cooking, drain the artichokes well. Warm a medium skillet over
medium heat. Add 1⁄4 cup olive oil, the artichokes, wine, 1⁄2 cup water, the
thyme, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Season with salt and simmer,
uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the artichokes are tender when
pierced at the base with a small, sharp knife, 10 to 15 minutes, depending
on the size of the artichokes. If the liquid evaporates before the artichokes
are tender, add a splash more water. Let cool at room temperature and
then taste for salt.
Put the potatoes in a shallow baking dish or pan just large enough to
hold them in a single layer. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil, season with a
generous amount of salt, and toss well. Add a splash of water (just enough
to create a little steam as the potatoes cook). Cover tightly with aluminum
foil and bake until the potatoes can be easily pierced with a small, sharp
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vegetable & fruit salads 77
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knife, 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes. Remove
from the oven, vent the foil, and let cool at room temperature.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, mustard, vinegar, and 1 table-
spoon lemon juice in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the
egg yolk and then slowly whisk in 3⁄4 cup oil. Thin the vinaigrette with a few drops of cool water if necessary (you want it thin enough to drizzle nicely.)
Taste and adjust with more salt or vinegar if necessary. Set aside.
Shortly before serving, halve or quarter the potatoes (depending on their
size and your preference) and season with about 11⁄2 tablespoons of the
vinaigrette. Set aside.
Season the tuna on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Warm a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over high heat until very hot.
Add your remaining 3 tablespoons oil and place the tuna in the skillet.
Cook, without moving, until seared and nicely browned, 2 to 3 minutes,
depending on the thickness of the tuna. Turn and cook on the opposite
side for another 2 to 3 minutes. (The tuna should be pink in the center.)
Transfer to a plate and set aside.
Drain any liquid from the artichokes and discard the thyme. Cut the
eggs into quarters and season with salt and pepper. Scatter about half of
the arugula around a large platter or individual plates. Tuck the potatoes,
artichokes, beets, and eggs in and around the greens. Using your hands,
break the tuna into rustic pieces, or slice it with a knife and nestle it in
and around the other ingredients. Drizzle about 1⁄4 cup vinaigrette over
the platter, or about a tablespoon over individual portions, and serve
immediately, passing the remaining vinaigrette at the table.
78 vegetable & fruit salads
shaved artichoke and fennel salad
with beef carpaccio
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil; more
4 to 5 small artichokes, about 15 ounces,
1⁄4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
for brushing and drizzling
trimmed (see p. XX)
kosher salt
8 ounces good-quality beef tenderloin, fat
1⁄2 clove garlic, pounded to a smooth paste
freshly ground black pepper
trimmed and cut into 4 even, thin slices
with a pinch of salt
chunk of parmigiano-reggiano,
1 lemon, halved, plus 2 tablespoons
kosher salt
for shaving
freshly squeezed lemon juice; more
1 large fennel bulb, trimmed
as needed
2 handfuls arugula, about 21⁄2 ounces,
washed and dried
This salad is delicious without the meat, but the carpaccio makes it a light meal. Be sure to use good-quality beef. To make the beef tenderloin easier to slice, wrap it in plastic and put it in the freezer for about an hour before slicing. For a simpler version of the salad—or if you are squeamish about raw beef—serve with thinly sliced bresola (air-dried beef) or prosciutto. You can also use raw tuna in place of the beef.
Young, tender, and freshly picked artichokes are the best choice for raw artichoke salads. Look for them at the farmers’ market or specialty markets. You can vary the vegetables in this simple salad in a number of ways. Along with the artichokes and fennel, you can add thinly sliced radish, raw porcini, or red peppers, such as Gypsy peppers. Or replace the fennel with thinly sliced celery. For a more herby salad, add small leaves of basil or mint. A touch of mustard in the vinaigrette is also nice.
Served without the carpaccio, this salad is delicious with a handful of toasted and chopped almonds or hazelnuts.
serves 4
Chill four large plates. Cut eight 8-inch squares of parchment paper. Brush
one sheet lightly with olive oil, and place one slice of the beef in the middle.
Brush the beef lightly with oil and top with another piece of parchment.
Using a meat mallet (or the bottom of a heavy pan), gently pound the meat
to an even, paper-thin thickness (about 1⁄16 of an inch). Repeat the process
with the remaining 3 slices of beef. Refrigerate the beef as is, sandwiched
between the paper, for at least 1 hour or until just before serving.
Fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze the juice of the lemon halves
into it. Cut the artichokes in half and add to the water to prevent them
from t
urning brown; set aside.
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vegetable & fruit salads 79
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To make the vinaigrette, combine the 2 tablespoons lemon juice and
the garlic in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the
remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Taste with a leaf of arugula and adjust
the vinaigrette with more lemon juice, salt, or a drizzle more olive oil if
necessary.
Just before serving, use a mandoline or a sharp knife to thinly slice the
artichokes. Return the artichokes to the acidulated water. Carefully peel
the top layer of parchment off of one sheet of carpaccio and invert onto
a chilled plate. (The beef should cover the plate in a single layer.) Gently
run your hand over the paper so that the entire surface of the beef touches
the plate. Then carefully peel away the remaining layer of parchment.
Repeat with the other carpaccio. Drizzle a few drops of olive oil onto the
carpaccio and gently spread the olive oil with the back of a spoon. Lightly
season the beef with salt.
Using a mandoline or a sharp knife, thinly slice the fennel. Drain the
artichokes and pat dry. Put the artichokes, fennel, arugula, and parsley in
a large work bowl. Season with salt and a few twists of black pepper. Gently
toss the salad with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens and
vegetables. Taste and add more salt or a squeeze of lemon if necessary.
With a delicate hand, put a small handful of the salad in the center of each
piece of carpaccio. Finish each plate with several long, thin shavings of
Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve immediately.
vegetable & fruit salads 81
leeks vinaigrette with
beets and salsa rustica
24 baby leeks, about 3⁄4 inch in diameter
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh
1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
kosher salt
flat-leaf parsley
olive oil; more for drizzling
1
1 large egg
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
⁄2 medium lemon
1 shallot, finely diced
1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh
freshly ground black pepper
tarragon or chervil
1 small clove garlic, pounded to a smooth
6 medium beets, roasted, peeled, cut into
1
paste with a pinch of salt (optional)
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and
⁄2-inch wedges or jewels, and lightly
soaked in cool water, drained, and
pickled (see p. XX)
1 tablespoon dijon mustard
coarsely chopped
handful of arugula leaves, about 1 ounce,
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar;
washed and dried, for garnish (optional)
more as needed
add substance
Look for young, beautiful leeks for this salad and cook them carefully so they’re not serve with thinly sliced prosciutto,
under- or overcooked. When available in spring, use green garlic in place of the salmon, or room-temperature roast
garlic clove in the salsa. Simply dice the tender white and pale green portions of the chicken.
stalk, and sweat it in a little olive oil until it’s tender. Let cool and then stir the green garlic into the herb mixture in the salsa. If you’re an anchovy fan, add a couple of mashed anchovy fillets to the salsa, or garnish the finished salad with a few thin slivers of anchovy. For a spicy note, you can also add a little chopped preserved red chile (see p. XX) or Calabrian chile to the salsa.
Be sure to serve with a crusty piece of bread to mop up the salsa rustica. I call to garnish the plate with arugula, but you can also garnish with young dandelion leaves or serve the salad on a bed of frisée.
serves 4 to 6
Trim the root ends off the leeks at the base, then trim the dark green tops,
leaving a little green at the ends. Peel off any damaged or bruised outer
layers. Using a small sharp knife and starting about 2 inches from the root
end, carefully slit the leeks down the middle lengthwise. Rinse the leeks
under cool running water to remove any grit. (If the leeks are especially
gritty, soak and agitate them in a large bowl of warm water first, then
rinse.) Gather the leeks into bundles of 6 and tie with kitchen twine.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with a generous amount of
salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Put the leeks in the water, reduce
the heat to maintain a gentle boil, and cook until tender but not mushy,
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82 vegetable & fruit salads
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tip When making herbs salsas,
7 to 9 minutes. To test, pull out a bundle of leeks and place it on the
such as salsa verde or salsa
cutting board. You should be able to easily pierce the root end of a leek
rustica, be sure to add the herbs
with a small, sharp knife, and the root should give a little when squeezed.
to the acid mixture just before
serving. If you add the acid in
Remove the leeks from the pot and drain on a baking sheet lined with a
advance, the herbs will fade.
lint-free towel. When cool, remove the twine and neatly arrange the leeks
side by side on the baking sheet. Set aside at room temperature.
To cook the egg, bring a small pot of water to a boil and have an ice bath
ready. Gently lower the egg into the pot and reduce the heat to maintain
a gentle simmer. (You don’t want the egg dancing around in the pot.) Set
the timer for 8 minutes for a firm white with a slightly runny yolk. (If you
prefer the yolk cooked a little more, set the timer for 9 minutes.) Remove
the egg from the water and immediately plunge it into the ice bath. When
the egg is cool (after about 1 minute), tap it gently on the counter to crack
the shell and peel it. Return the egg to the ice water to chill thoroughly,
about another minute, and then set aside at room temperature.
To make the salsa, combine the shallot, garlic, mustard, vinegar, and a
pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. In a separate
bowl, combine the chopped herbs, capers, and 1⁄2 cup olive oil. Set aside.
Just before serving, squeeze the juice of the lemon half on the leeks (just
enough to lightly dress them), drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons
olive oil, and season with salt and a few twists of black pepper. Gently toss
the leeks to coat evenly. Stir the shallot mixture into the herb mixture. Chop the egg (or mash it in a bowl) and gently stir it into the salsa. Taste and add more salt or vinegar if necessary. Or, if the salsa is too acidic or “tight”
(you want to be able to spoon it over the salad), add a little more oil.
Arrange the leeks on a platter or individual plates. Place the beets here
and there. Spoon the salsa on the salad and garnish with a few leaves of
arugula, if desired. Serve immediately.
84 vegetable & fruit salads
asparagus and young dandelion
salad with sieved egg, pancetta
& mustard vinaigrette
2 handfuls frisée, about 3 ounces
four 1⁄8-inch-thick slices pancetta, cut
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 handfuls young dandelion leaves or
crosswise into 1-inch segments
1 egg yolk
arugula, about 21⁄2 ounces
1 clove garlic, pounded to a smooth paste
freshly ground black pepper
kosher salt
with a pinch of salt
1⁄2 recipe rustic croutons (p. XX)
1 pound asparagus
1 tablespoon dijon mustard
4 not-so-hard cooked eggs, boiled
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar;
1⁄2 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin
for 9 minutes (see p. XX) and peeled
olive oil
more as needed
Bundles of fresh asparagus in the market are one of the first signs of spring. Look for freshly cut, bright green spears with smooth stalks and tight heads. Before cooking, snap off the tough bottom ends of the spears. (Or snap a single spear and trim the remaining spears to the same length.) Larger spears often need to be peeled. The best way to judge whether asparagus needs peeling is to take a bite of a raw spear.
If the skin is tough and fibrous, peel about two-thirds of the stalk with a fine-blade vegetable peeler. After boiling, be sure to cool the asparagus quickly by spreading the spears out on a sheet pan; this way, they will retain their vibrant color.
Pickled beets are a nice addition to this salad. In lieu of the pancetta, you can drape prosciutto or Serrano ham on the salad. If you want to get really wild, serve the salad with poached eggs instead of hard-cooked egg and wrap the pancetta around a crouton (see p. XX) for dipping.
serves 4
Wash the frisée and dandelion in a large basin of cool water, swishing the
water gently to remove any dirt and to combine the greens. Lift the lettuce
from the water and transfer to a colander to drain. Spin-dry in small
batches or layer between clean, lint-free kitchen towels to dry. Refrigerate
until just before serving.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with a generous amount of
salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Grasp an asparagus spear with
both hands and snap it in two; it will naturally separate at the point where
the stalk becomes tender. Trim the remaining spears to the same length.
(Or snap all of the spears by hand.) Discard the tough bottom ends of
the spears. If necessary, lightly peel about two-thirds of the spear. (If the
asparagus is very fresh and tender, this is often unnecessary.)
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vegetable & fruit salads 85
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Drop the asparagus into the boiling water and cook until crisp-tender,
3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of the spears. (Keep in mind that
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