as yellow finn, yukon gold, german
2 cloves garlic, pounded to a smooth
coarsely ground
Butterball, or Bintje, peeled
paste with a pinch of salt
freshly ground black pepper
kosher salt
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
1 head cauliflower (about 11⁄2 pounds),
juice; more as needed
parsley
cored
1 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted
green olives, such as lucques or picholine,
3⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
and coarsely ground
rinsed well, for garnish
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1⁄2 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted
and coarsely ground
add substance
Both cauliflower and potatoes take well to assertive spice combinations, and
serve with skirt steak or lamb chops,
the combination of garlic, cumin, coriander, and fennel seed, along with spicy cooked hot and fast.
caramelized onions, make for a rich, satisfying salad.
If shopping at the supermarket, look for cauliflower with firm, compact flowers (or curds), and avoid any with brown spots, or with spots that have been shaved to conceal the cauliflower’s age. At the farmers’ market you’ll find beautiful cauliflower with fresh, green leaves that cup the cauliflower. Like lettuces, perky leaves are the best indicator of fresh cauliflower.
serves 4 to 6
Cut the potatoes into halves or quarters, depending on the size of the
potato and your preference. Put the potatoes in a medium (3- to 4-quart)
pot and add cold water to cover. Add a generous amount of salt to the
water—it should taste almost like seawater. Bring to a simmer, uncovered,
then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring
occasionally, until the potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Check for
doneness from time to time by piercing with a small, sharp knife. When
the potatoes are close to done, scoop one out with a slotted spoon and
place it on the cutting board. Let cool briefly and then taste. It should be
perfectly tender, but if not, continue cooking for a few more minutes.
Drain well.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with a generous amount of
salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Have a baking sheet lined with
parchment ready.
106 vegetable & fruit salads
Separate the cauliflower flowerets. Then, starting at the top of the stem (just beneath the flowers), cut through the stem lengthwise and divide
the floweret in half, preferably without using the knife to cut through the
flowery mass. Repeat the process until the top of each floret is about the
size of a quarter.
Cook the cauliflower in the boiling water until just tender, about 4 minutes.
Drain, spread on the baking sheet, and set aside at room temperature.
Warm a medium-size sauté pan over medium heat. Add 1⁄4 cup of the olive
oil, the onion, and red pepper flakes, and season with salt. Sauté, stirring
occasionally, until the onion is caramelized and dark brown, about
15 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, lemon juice, cumin, coriander,
and fennel in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the
remaining 1⁄2 cup oil. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice if necessary.
Put the potatoes and cauliflower in a large work bowl, season with a few
twists of pepper, drizzle the vinaigrette on top, and gently toss to combine.
Add the onion and parsley and toss lightly once more. Taste and add
more salt or lemon juice if necessary. Spoon the salad onto a platter or
individual plates. Garnish with a few olives. Serve at room temperature.
vegetable & fruit salads 107
avocado and grapefruit
salad with scallop ceviche
and jalapeño vinaigrette
1⁄2 pound sea scallops, side muscles
1 medium-size jalapeño stemmed, seeded,
kosher salt
removed, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces or
and finely diced
3⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
slightly smaller
11⁄2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
2 avocados
3⁄4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice (about
juice; more as needed
6 limes); more as needed
2 medium grapefruits, peeled and
11⁄2 tablespoons champagne vinegar;
cut into segments (see p. XX)
2 heads butter lettuce, about 8 ounces
more as needed
each
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh
1 tablespoon finely grated grapefruit zest
cilantro leaves
1 shallot, finely diced
Rich, creamy avocado is delicious with tangy grapefruit and ceviche. If you’re not a fan of ceviche, you can easily prepare the salad without it or use seared scallops instead (see p. XX). You can also use oranges in place of the grapefruits; blood oranges are particularly delicious in this salad.
serves 4
To make the ceviche, combine the scallops and lime juice in a small glass
or stainless-steel bowl. You want a generous amount of lime juice so that
the fish “cooks” evenly. If the juice doesn’t cover the scallops, add more.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.
Pluck off any damaged outer leaves from the lettuce. Carefully cut the
core from each head and gently separate the leaves. Tear the larger leaves if
you like. Wash the greens in a large basin of cool water, swishing the water
gently to remove any dirt. Lift the lettuce from the water and transfer to a
colander to drain. Spin-dry in small batches or layer between clean, lint-
free kitchen towels to dry. Refrigerate until just before serving.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, jalapeño, lemon juice,
vinegar, zest, and a pinch of salt in small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes.
Whisk in the oil. Taste and adjust with more acid or salt if necessary. Set
aside.
Just before you’re ready to serve, cut the avocados in half lengthwise and
remove the pits. To slice the avocado, hold one half in the palm of your
hand and, using a small sharp knife, slice the flesh diagonally into about
108 vegetable & fruit salads
1⁄4-inch slices, cutting through the avocado without penetrating the skin (or your hand.) Repeat with the remaining halves. (For more on this
technique, see p. XX.) Set aside.
Drain the scallops and return them to the bowl. Season with salt and toss
with about 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette.
Put the salad greens in a large work bowl and season with salt. Gently toss
with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens. Taste and add more
salt if necessary. With a delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter or
individual serving plates, arranging the leaves somewhat flat. Then, using
a large spoon and starting at the very edge of the avocado (where skin
meets flesh), scoop the flesh out of the avocado in one swoop. Separate the
avocado slices and tuck them here and there in the salad. (At this point,
I like to season the avocado as best I can with salt.) Tuck the grapefruit
segments here and there. Spoon the ceviche on the sal
ad. Drizzle any
remaining vinaigrette on and around the salad, focusing on the avocado.
Scatter the cilantro on top and serve immediately.
vegetable & fruit salads 109
lobster and celery root salad
with fines herbes
kosher salt
3⁄4 cup vegetable or canola oil
in cool water, drained, and coarsely
two 1- to 1
chopped
1⁄2-pound lobsters
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh
2 heads butter lettuce, about 8 ounces
flat-leaf parsley
4 not-so-hard-cooked eggs, cooked for
each
9 minutes (see p. XX)
1⁄4 cup finely chopped fresh chives
2 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh
freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons dijon mustard
tarragon
1 medium celery root, about 1 pound,
peeled and cut into julienne
1⁄
3⁄
4 cup plus 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed
4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil; more as needed
lemon juice; more as needed
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and soaked
tip To get ahead, peel and cut the
This recipe was inspired by a dish in James Beard’s Shellfish. I doubt I would have celery root into julienne and toss with
tried this combination without James Beard’s lead, but I’m glad I did—it’s wonderful.
a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice to
The clean, delicate flavor of celery root pairs nicely with the rich lobster, and the prevent it from discoloring.
mayonnaise vinaigrette, made with chopped egg, capers, and herbs, is good enough to eat with a spoon. I added a dollop of mustard and a good amount of herbs to the salad.
basic skills
Look for small- to medium-size celery root that is firm and heavy for its size; avoid to peel celery root, first trim the top
roots with soft spots or a lot of rootlets. Be sure to use a sharp knife when peeling it.
and the bottom (be sure to trim the root
end until pure white flesh is exposed,
serves 4 to 6
without any veins of the root running
through it) and stand the vegetable on
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a generous amount of salt—it
the cutting board. Then, working from
should taste almost like seawater—and add the lobsters. Return the water to
top to bottom and fol owing the curve of
a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Remove the lobsters from the pot, put them
the flesh, cut the rough skin away from
on a baking sheet, and set aside to cool at room temperature for about
the flesh in wide strips, slowly rotating
15 minutes.
the root as you make your way around.
Working over the baking sheet, remove the lobster meat from the shells by
Trim away any skin you may have
twisting the tail and claws off of each body and pulling the meat from the
missed the first time around.
cavities. Be sure to get all the meat from the knuckles as well. For more on
this technique, see p. XX. Slice the lobster meat into 3⁄4-inch pieces, then
put in a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until chilled, or shortly before serving.
110 vegetable & fruit salads
Pluck off any damaged outer leaves from the lettuce, then carefully cut the core from each head and gently separate the leaves. Wash the greens in a
large basin of cool water, swishing the water gently to remove any dirt. Lift
the lettuce from the water and transfer to a colander to drain. Spin-dry
in small batches or layer between clean, lint-free kitchen towels to dry.
Refrigerate until just before serving.
To make the mayonnaise vinaigrette, whisk the egg yolks, mustard, and
1⁄2 teaspoon water in a small bowl. Combine 3⁄4 cup of the olive oil and the
vegetable oil in a liquid measuring cup. Begin whisking the egg yolk and
slowly start adding the oil, literally a drop at a time. As the mixture begins to thicken and emulsify, gradually add more oil in a thin, steady stream
until the mixture is perfectly emulsified. Combine the parsley, chives, and
tarragon in a small bowl. Add half of the herbs, 1⁄4 cup of the lemon juice,
and the capers, and whisk to combine. Finely chop one of the hard-
cooked eggs and fold into the vinaigrette. Season with salt and a few twists
of black pepper. Taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust the vinaigrette with
more salt or lemon juice if necessary. Refrigerate until just before serving.
Put the lobster and celery root in a medium bowl, and season with salt and
a few twists of pepper. Add the vinaigrette and gently stir to coat well. Taste and season with more salt if necessary.
Cut the remaining eggs into quarters and season with salt and pepper.
Put the lettuce in a large work bowl, sprinkle the remaining herbs on top,
and season with salt and black pepper. Drizzle the remaining 1 tablespoon
lemon juice and 2 tablespoons olive oil into the bowl and gently toss to
lightly coat. Taste and add more salt, lemon juice, or olive oil if necessary.
(The salad should be lightly dressed but tasty.) With a delicate hand,
transfer the salad to a platter or individual serving plates. Spoon the
lobster mixture over the lettuce. Tuck the eggs here and there and serve
immediately.
vegetable & fruit salads 111
shaved brussels sprouts
with celery, pomegranate
& toasted walnuts
11⁄2 pounds Brussels sprouts, damaged
11⁄2 cups pomegranate seeds
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil;
leaves removed, root ends trimmed,
1 cup walnuts, lightly toasted and
more as needed
and very thinly sliced
coarsely broken (see p. XX)
5 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
kosher salt
juice; more as needed
2 stalks celery, thinly sliced on a
freshly ground black pepper
2 to 3 ounces crumbled feta (optional)
sharp angle
add substance
Sliced very thinly, Brussels sprouts make a delicious slaw. Use them in place of raw this simple salad is delicious served
cabbage in other salad recipes. To get ahead, slice the Brussels sprouts 3 to 4 hours with gril ed or pan-fried lamb chops,
in advance and cover and store in the refrigerator.
brushed lightly with pomegranate
serves 4 to 6
molasses as they come off the grill or
out of the pan.
Put the Brussels sprouts, parsley, celery, pomegranate seeds, and walnuts
in a large bowl, and season with salt and a few twists of black pepper.
Drizzle the olive oil and lemon juice on top and toss well to combine.
Taste and add more salt and/or lemon juice if necessary, or if the salad
is a little too dry, add another drizzle of olive oil. (The salad should be
lightly dressed but not dry.) With a delicate hand, transfer to a platter or
individual serving plates and crumble the feta on top. Serve immediately.
variations
• omit the pomegranate seeds and feta and finish the salad with freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese.
• Use only 1 pound Brussels sprouts and add a large
handful of arugula to the salad.
basic skills
• Reduce the olive oil to 5 tablespoons and add 1 tablespoon fresh walnut oil.
to shave Brussels sprouts, remove any
damaged outer leaves and trim the root
end. Cut the sprouts in half through
the root end and place them flat side
down on the cutting board; then slice
very thinly with a sharp knife. I like this
method of slicing by hand, but you can
also use a mandoline.
vegetable & fruit salads 113
smoked trout and
fingerling potato salad with
belgian endive
1 bunch small, tender watercress, about
1⁄2 teaspoon whole-grain mustard
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-
4 ounces
11⁄
leaf parsley
2 teaspoons dijon mustard
4 heads Belgian endive, about 1 pound
kosher salt
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh
chervil
3/4 pound small fingerling potatoes,
1 egg yolk
washed and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-
2 tablespoons fresh chives cut at an angle
1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
thick slices
into 1⁄4-inch lengths
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed well, soaked,
1 clove garlic, pounded to a paste with a
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh
drained, and coarsely chopped
pinch of salt
tarragon
1⁄2 pound smoked trout fillet, skin and
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
cornichons or caperberries, for garnish
bones removed
juice; more as needed
(optional)
freshly ground black pepper
This classic bistro salad comes together easily. To get ahead, cook the potatoes in advance, dress them lightly with olive oil (just enough so they don’t stick together), and set aside at room temperature. Add the remaining ingredients just before serving.
You can use also use arugula or another garden cress in place of the watercress.
To add a little more richness and texture to the vinaigrette, fold in a coarsely chopped hard-cooked egg yolk.
serves 4
Trim the watercress and remove any tough stems and wilted and yellow
leaves. (The sprigs should be fairly short, about 3 inches long.) Pluck off
any damaged outer leaves from the Belgian endive and cut in half through
the root end. Holding your knife at an angle, cut the endive crosswise into
1-inch-thick slices. Discard the root ends. Wash the greens in a large basin
Salad for Dinner Page 14