more as needed
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3⁄4 pound thin green beans (haricots verts),
1⁄4 cup plus 1 tablespoon crème fraîche
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh basil
stem ends trimmed
or heavy cream
2 large handfuls frisée (pale center
1 shallot, finely diced
1⁄4 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin
leaves), washed and dried
olive oil
basic skills
This salad is inspired by a vegetable sauté made at Chez Panisse. It’s incredibly to cut corn kernels off the cob, shuck
user friendly--it’s delicious served on its own or with just about any grilled meat or the corn and rub the cobs lightly with a
roast chicken.
clean kitchen towel to remove the silk.
Golden chanterelles grow in the Pacific Northwest throughout the summer and fall.
Spread the towel out on a cutting board
In the peak of summer, they tend to be smaller and dryer than the moist specimens to help prevent the cobs from slipping
found at the market during the fall. Keep and eye out for tiny chanterelles, those with while you cut and to catch the kernels
caps sometimes smaller than 1 inch across, and use them if you find them.
(you can also place the towel in a large,
serves 4
wide bowl). Put the tip of the corn in
the center of the towel and hold the cob
at a slight angle. Using a sharp knife
Bring a medium pot of water to a boil and have 2 baking sheets lined with
and starting at the stalk end of the cob,
parchment ready. Put the corn kernels in a fine wire-mesh strainer basket
shave the kernels off the cob by sliding
and submerge the corn and the basket in the water to cook for 20 to
the knife down the length of the cob,
30 seconds (the fresher the corn, the less it needs to cook). Lift the basket
rotating the cob as you work. When
out of the water, drain well, and spread the corn on one of the baking
done, careful y lift the towel and transfer
sheet to cool at room temperature. Season the water with a generous
the kernels to a bowl.
amount of salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Add the green beans
and cook until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Drain well and spread the
beans on a baking sheet to cool. (If you’re concerned that the beans are
slightly overcooked, put them in the refrigerator to cool.)
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, lemon juice, vinegar, and
a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the
crème fraîche and 2 tablespoons oil, and season with a few twists of black
pepper. Taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust the vinaigrette with more
lemon juice, vinegar, or salt if necessary. Add water to thin so that the
dressing drizzles nicely. Set aside.
96 vegetable & fruit salads
Gently clean the mushrooms with a damp cloth, a mushroom brush, or a paring knife, removing any dirt, debris, or dark spots. If the mushrooms
appear sandy, quickly dip them in a large basin of water and drain. Leave
small bite-size mushrooms whole; cut larger ones into about 1-inch pieces.
Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons oil
and the mushrooms. Sauté the mushrooms until they are tender and
golden brown, stirring occasionally, 7 to 10 minutes. The cooking time
will vary depending on the mushroom’s water content. (Avoid stirring
the mushrooms too frequently or they won’t brown as well.) When the
mushrooms are done, push them to the side to clear a space in the center
of the pan. If needed, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil (skip this step
if there is still a good amount of oil in the pan) and the garlic, and sauté
just until you smell the garlic, about 30 seconds. (The garlic tastes best
if it sautés quickly, directly on the pan, rather than on the mushrooms.)
Stir the mushrooms into the garlic, season with salt, and transfer to a large
work bowl. Let cool to room temperature.
Add the corn, green beans, and basil to the mushrooms and season with
salt and a few twists of pepper. Gently but thoroughly toss the salad with
just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the vegetables. Taste and add more
salt or vinegar if necessary. Add the frisée to the bowl, season lightly with
salt, and lightly toss again, adding just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat.
Taste once more for salt and acid. With a delicate hand, transfer the salad
to a platter or individual serving plates, evenly distributing the vegetables.
Serve immediately.
vegetable & fruit salads 97
lobster, corn & red pepper salad
kosher salt
2 cloves garlic, pounded to a smooth
freshly ground black pepper
2 live 1- to 1
paste with a pinch of salt
1⁄2-pound lobsters
1 large red bell pepper, cut into 1⁄4-inch
2 heads butter lettuce, about 8 ounces
1 large shallot, finely diced
dice (about 1 cup)
each
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and
2 large ears fresh corn, shucked and
juice
finely diced
kernels cut off the cob, to yield about
3 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
1⁄4 cup fresh chives, cut into 1⁄4-inch lengths
2 cups
1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh basil
olive oil
basic skills
I have a fantasy about summering in Maine. I have yet to visit but I enjoy picturing it.
to remove lobster meat from the shells,
First, I’ll have a lobster roll, with corn on the cob on the side with a squeeze of lime work over a baking sheet and twist the
(first things first, after all). Then, after a few days of sunning on the beach in a floppy tail and claws off of the body. Using a
hat, I’ll make this salad, when I’m craving something a little lighter and more bathing sharp chef’s knife, hold the tail flat on a
suit friendly.
cutting board (underside down) and cut
serves 4 to 6
the tail in half lengthwise. Remove the
vein that runs the length of the tail, and
then gently remove the meat. To remove
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with a generous amount of
the claw meat, twist the knuckles off of
salt—it should taste almost like seawater—and add the lobsters. Return the
the claws. Holding one claw at a time,
water to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Remove the lobsters from the pot,
pull the lower pincer down and wiggle it
put them on a baking sheet, and set aside to cool at room temperature
from side to side to crack the shel , and
for about 15 minutes. Remove the lobster meat from the shells (see the
then pull the pincer off. With the heel
sidebar at left) and slice the meat into 3⁄4-inch pieces. Put the meat in a
of the knife, firmly tap the top of the
bowl, cover, and refrigerate until chilled, or shortly before serving.
claw, just above where the knuckle was
Pluck off any damaged outer leaves from the butter lettuce. Carefully
cut
attached, and gently pry the shell open.
the core from each head of lettuce and gently separate the leaves. Wash the
Holding the claw open end down, shake
greens in a large basin of cool water, swishing the water gently to remove
the claw to remove the meat. Using
any dirt. Lift the lettuce from the water and transfer to a colander to
kitchen shears, cut the knuckle shel s
drain. Spin-dry in small batches or layer between clean, lint-free kitchen
open and remove the meat.
towels to dry. Refrigerate the lettuce until just before serving.
Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Add the corn kernels and cook for 20
to 30 seconds. (The fresher the corn, the less you need to cook it.) Drain
well and spread the corn on a baking sheet to cool at room temperature.
continued on page xx
98 vegetable & fruit salads
continued from page xx
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, shallot, lemon juice, vinegar,
and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the oil. Taste and add more salt if necessary.
In a medium bowl, combine the lobster, corn, peppers, and herbs, and
season with salt. Gently toss with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the salad. Taste and add more salt or acid if necessary.
Put the lettuce in a large work bowl and season with salt and black pepper.
Gently toss the salad with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens.
Taste and add more salt if necessary. With a delicate hand, transfer the
salad to a platter or individual serving plates. Spoon the lobster mixture
over the lettuce. Drizzle any remaining vinaigrette over the salad and
serve immediately.
100 vegetable & fruit salads
heirloom tomato salad with basil,
burrata cheese & garlic crostone
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar
11⁄2 pounds ripe, fragrant heirloom
1 pound buratta cheese, or fresh buffalo
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar; more
tomatoes, assorted shapes, sizes,
mozzarella, cut into 1⁄2-inch-thick slices
as needed
and colors
or torn into rustic chunks
kosher salt
four 1⁄2-inch-thick slices rustic
1 large handful of fresh basil leaves
country-style bread
freshly ground black pepper
1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled
1⁄2 pint cherry tomatoes, such as
sun golds or sweet 100s
tip A sharp serrated knife works best
The only trick to making a delicious tomato salad is delicious tomatoes. You have to to slice tomatoes. Cut the tomatoes just
wait patiently for ripe, fragrant tomatoes—and then eat as many of them as you can before serving or as close to serving
until the next year! Your best bet for finding ripe tomatoes is the farmers’ market—or as possible; they lose a little something
your backyard if you’re lucky enough to have a garden, .
when cut too far in advance.
I grow lots of cherry tomatoes and small heirloom varieties, like Purple Prince and Green Zebra. Early in the season, my kids pick them off the vine and eat them faster than I can get to them, but by the end of summer, we’re inundated with tomatoes. I make any number of simple tomato salads, but this is one of my favorites.
If you can’t find burrata, use fresh mozzarella, ideally buffalo mozzarella. The salad is good with a few thin slices of prosciutto, too.
This is basically caprese salad—made with burrata instead of fresh mozzarella and served with a thick piece of bread, rubbed with garlic. Traditional caprese is made without vinegar—just good tomatoes, good olive oil, basil, and salt. If you have all four, try it.
serves 4
To make the vinaigrette, combine the vinegar and a pinch of salt in a small
bowl and whisk in the oil. Taste and add more salt if necessary.
Remove the stems from the cherry tomatoes and cut them in half. Core
the heirloom tomatoes and cut them into wedges or rustic chunks. Put the
tomatoes in a large work bowl and set aside for the moment.
Toast or grill the bread. Lightly (or to taste) rub the bread with garlic.
Place one slice of bread on each serving plate. Place two to three slices or
chunks of the burrata around each plate. (I like to drape one or two pieces
of cheese on the bread.) Roughly tear any large leaves of basil and leave the
vegetable & fruit salads 101
small leaves whole. Add the basil to the tomatoes. Season with a generous pinch of salt and a few twists of pepper, then add the vinaigrette and
gently toss. Taste and add more salt and/or vinegar if necessary. Spoon the
tomatoes and vinaigrette over the bread and on and around the burrata,
leaving some of the bread and burrata exposed. Serve immediately.
variations
• Add 1 shallot, finely diced, to the vinegar and salt and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then whisk in the oil. or, for a slightly different shallot texture and flavor, thinly slice 1 shallot and soak in ice water for 5 to 10 minutes (to remove some of its sharp, gassy flavor.) Drain well and add to the tomato mixture.
• Use a combination of other herb leaves, such as flat-leaf parsley, marjoram, and/or mint.
102 vegetable & fruit salads
slow-roasted salmon with
beets, cucumber & horseradish
vinaigrette
1-pound piece of boneless, skinless
1 small shallot, finely diced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
salmon, preferably wild, cut into
1 tablespoon champagne vinegar; more
4 handfuls arugula (about 4 ounces total),
2 even pieces
as needed
preferably wild, washed and dried
kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly grated or prepared
1 small to medium cucumber, peeled if
1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil;
horseradish; more as needed
necessary and cut at an angle into
more for drizzling
1
freshly ground black pepper
⁄4-inch-thick slices (to yield about 1 cup)
1 handful fresh flat-leaf parsley stems
4 medium beets, roasted, peeled, cut into
1⁄2 cup crème fraîche
(optional)
coins, and lightly pickled (see p. XX)
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
Slow-roasted salmon is moist, tender, and perfectly suited for salads. Use a nice, thick piece of salmon fillet. Avoid the tail end of the fish if you can; the flesh tapers and the thin end section of the fillet cooks quicker and tends to dry out before the thicker portion is done. Let the salmon cool to room temperature, and then gently break it into large, beautiful flakes. I particularly like this salad later in the summer when salmon is a little more fatty and can stand up to the horseradish vinaigrette. The salad is good with thinly sliced room-temperature beef, too. For a vegetarian version, serve roasted leeks in place of the salmon.
Instead of the medium-size beets called for, you can use baby beets (about 12, if they are very small) and simply cut them in half after roasting rather than cutting them into coins. It’s pretty to leave a little of the greens (just the base, not the leaves) and a small amount of the tail attached (if it’s not too fibrous).
Both fresh and prepared horseradish will work in the vinaigrette, but whenever possible, I use fresh. I prefer its pure flavor, and you can add more horseradish without making the vinaigrette overly
acidic (prepared horseradish adds a fair amount of acid to the vinaigrette). See page XX for more on horseradish.
serves 4
Position the rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 250°F.
Season the salmon with salt and drizzle with a thin stream of olive oil. If
you have parsley stems available, scatter the stems on a baking sheet and
place the salmon on top. Slow-roast the salmon until it’s opaque on the
outside and pinkish in the center, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the
continued on page xx
vegetable & fruit salads 103
continued from page xx
thickness of the salmon. To peek inside, use a small, sharp knife and make
a small incision in the middle of the fillet. (Keep in mind that the fish will continue cooking when it comes out of the oven, so if it seems a little too
pink in the center, it will most likely be perfect when it cools.) Remove the
salmon from the oven and let cool to room temperature.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, vinegar, horseradish,
a pinch of salt, and a few twists of black pepper in a small bowl. Let
sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the 1⁄4 cup olive oil, crème fraîche,
chives, and tarragon. Thin as necessary with cool water—you want the
dressing to drizzle nicely. Taste and adjust the vinaigrette with more salt
or horseradish if necessary. If using fresh horseradish, it may also be
necessary to add a little more vinegar. Set aside.
Just before serving, put the arugula and cucumber in a large work bowl
and season with salt. Drizzle a thin stream of olive oil (about 1 1⁄2 table-
spoons) over the greens and gently toss to coat very lightly. Taste and add more salt if necessary. With a delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter
or individual serving plates, evenly distributing any cucumber that may
have fallen to the bottom of the bowl. Using your hands, gently break the
salmon into large flakes. Discard the parsley stems, if used. Tuck the
salmon and beets here and there. Drizzle the vinaigrette on and around
the salad, focusing on the salmon and beets. Pass any remaining
vinaigrette at the table. Serve immediately.
104 vegetable & fruit salads
spiced cauliflower and
potato salad with caramelized onion
11⁄2 pounds small waxy potatoes, such
1⁄4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1⁄2 teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted and
Salad for Dinner Page 13