Salad for Dinner
Page 19
that you may have missed the first time
the couscous, making sure it is moist, and immediately cover the dish
around.
tightly with plastic wrap. Let swell for about 12 minutes. Transfer the
Cut the squash in half, vertical y,
couscous to a large work bowl. Drizzle 2 tablespoons oil into the bowl and,
and remove the seeds. Cut each half into
using your fingers, lightly rub the oil into the couscous to break up any
3⁄4 -to 1-inch wedges, and then cut each
clumps and fluff the grains. Set aside at room temperature.
wedge at an angle into 3⁄4- to 1-inch-
Warm a medium-size sauté pan over medium-heat. Add 1⁄4 cup oil and
wide chunks.
the onion, and season with salt. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until the
onion is caramelized and dark brown, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a
paper-towel-lined plate to drain.
150 grain, bread & pasta salads
Warm a small sauté pan over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon oil and the pumpkin seeds. Fry, tossing or stirring frequently, until the seeds
are golden, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and
season with salt.
To make the vinaigrette, whisk the harissa, lemon juice, and the remaining
1 cup olive oil together in a small bowl. Taste and adjust with more salt or
lemon juice if necessary.
Add the squash and onion to the couscous. Drizzle the vinaigrette on
top and lightly toss to combine. Add the pumpkin seeds and parsley and
toss once more. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice if necessary.
Spoon the salad onto a platter or individual serving plates. Serve at room
temperature and pass more harissa at the table.
grain, bread & pasta salads 151
pasta salad with lentils,
kale & warm bacon vinaigrette
1⁄2 cup green lentils, picked over
1 pound kale, preferably Lacinato (also
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 small bay leaf
called dinosaur kale), stems removed and
Crushed red pepper flakes
cut into about 1⁄2-inch pieces
Kosher salt
31⁄2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
1⁄2 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin
3⁄4 pound dry short tubular pasta,
olive oil
Chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano,
such as penne rigate, ziti, or chiocciole
for grating (optional)
Six 1⁄4-inch-thick slices bacon (about
7 ounces) cut crosswise into 1⁄4-inch-
wide strips
More about kale
This salad is particularly good at warm room temperature. Try to time it so the Kale comes in many colors, shapes,
pasta and kale are cooking simultaneously so that both are slightly warm when you and textures. I use Lacinato kale, an
assemble the salad.
Italian heirloom variety, most frequently.
To get ahead, cook the lentils in advance and store them in the refrigerator for up (It’s also cal ed dinosaur kale, Tuscan
2 days. Be sure to cook the lentils until just done, so they don’t turn to mush, and let kale, and cavolo nero.) It has slender
them come to room temperature before you prepare the salad. You can also cook
and crinkly dark blue-green leaves that
the bacon in advance and set the pan (with the bacon fat) aside until you’re ready to maintain a nice texture after cooking.
finish the salad.
Red Russian kale, a variety with
beautiful purple-red-blushed leaves and
ServeS 4
stems, is another good option.
Regardless of the variety, kale likes
Put the lentils and bay leaf in a small saucepan and cover with water by
cold weather and frost, and is best in the
2 inches. Bring to a boil and season with a generous pinch of salt. Reduce
late fall and winter. Look for bright and
the heat, and simmer gently until the lentils are tender but not mushy
fresh (almost firm) leaves. Avoid kale
(you want them to retain their shape), 20 to 30 minutes, depending
that is yel owy or limp. Store it in the
on the age of the lentils. If the lentils start to peak through the cooking
refrigerator in a plastic bag, and rinse
liquid, add a splash more water. Drain well, and spread in a shallow
and drain it shortly before cooking.
container to cool. Set aside at room temperature.
The residual water on the leaves after
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with a generous amount of
washing is often enough to cook young,
salt—it should taste almost like seawater—add the pasta, and cook until al
tender kale. Later in the season, more
dente, about 15 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a large bowl, and set aside
mature kale typical y requires more
at room temperature to cool.
liquid and longer cooking.
Wash and drain the kale, but leave a good amount of water clinging to the
leaves. Warm a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons
oil, swirl to coat the pan, and add the kale in large handfuls. When the
kale has wilted, season it with salt, reduce the heat to medium, and cover
152 grain, bread & pasta salads
the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the kale is tender. The cooking time will vary depending on the maturity of the kale; young, tender kale
will cook in about 3 minutes, while mature leaves can take up to 15 minutes.
When the kale is tender, remove the lid and increase the heat to high to cook
off any excess water. Transfer to a plate and set aside at room temperature.
Wash the pan and return it to the stovetop over medium heat. Add
1 tablespoon oil, swirl to lightly coat the pan, and add the bacon. Sauté
the bacon, stirring and turning it occasionally, until brown and crisp,
about 5 minutes. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and transfer to
a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Set aside.
You should have about 2 tablespoons bacon fat in the pan. Return the pan
to the stovetop over medium heat and add the remaining 6 tablespoons
oil. You want a total of about 1⁄2 cup of fat; add more olive oil if needed.
When the oil is warm, add the garlic and a generous pinch of pepper flakes,
and cook briefly, just until you start to smell the garlic, about 30 seconds.
Remove from the heat and carefully add the vinegar and season with salt.
Put the pasta, lentils, kale, and bacon in a large work bowl. Drizzle the
vinaigrette on top and gently fold to combine. Taste and add more salt
or vinegar if needed. Spoon the salad onto a platter or individual plates.
Grate the Parmesan on top, and serve.
grain, bread & pasta salads 153
farro and black rice salad
with arugula and tangerine
11⁄4 cups farro
7 medium tangerines
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
3⁄4 cup black rice
3 tablespoons champagne or white-wine
1 shallot, fined diced
vinegar; more as needed
1 large handful of arugula, about
11⁄
1
4 ounces, washed and dried
1 small red chile, such as Thai chile,
⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
; thinly sliced
olive oil
Kosher salt
add SubStance
Farro and black rice make a striking combination. This salad was inspired by a This salad is good with meaty fish, like
beautiful and delicious recipe by chef Suzanne Goin. Here the grains are boiled so swordfish, or lamb. It’s also good with
they stay separate and served at room temperature with arugula, tangerines, and a tangy cheese, such as goat cheese, or
slightly spicy vinaigrette.
feta. If serving with meat or fish, make a
I like the cool flavor of mint in this salad as well; see the variation location.
little extra vinaigrette to spoon on top.
ServeS 4
More about black rice
Bring two medium pots (2- to 3-quart size) of water to a boil, and season both Black rice turns a deep purple color
with a generous amount of salt--it should almost taste almost like seawater.
when cooked and is beautiful when
Add the farro to one pot and the rice to another, reduce the heat to maintain
mixed with other grains in salads.
a low boil, and cook until both grains are just tender (the rice, in particular, Similar to brown rice, black rice
should be a little al dente), 20 to 25 minutes. Drain both grains well, and
has a mild, nutty taste. There are
spread out on two separate baking sheets. Set aside at room temperature.
several heirloom varieties available,
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, red chile 3⁄4 teaspoon finely
including Indonesian, Thai Jasmine,
grated tangerine zest, 1 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed tangerine juice
and “forbidden rice” from China (once
(from the zested tangerine), vinegar, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl.
grown exclusively for the Emperor.)
Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the olive oil. Taste and add more salt
Risotto nero, from the Veneto region of
if necessary.
Italy, is especial y good. Grown in salty
marshes, black rice has a subtle taste
Shortly before serving, peel and segment the remaining 6 tangerines
of the sea and is especial y good with
(see p. XX). Put the farro, rice, and parsley in a bowl. Season with salt
fish. Look for it at specialty markets and
and drizzle about two-thirds of the vinaigrette on top. Toss lightly to
on-line. When cooking for salads, boil
combine, then taste and add more salt or vinegar if necessary. Scatter
black rice in lots of boiling, salted water,
about half of the arugula on a platter or divide among individual serving
like pasta, to keep the grains separate,
plates. Spoon the salad on top of the arugula and place the tangerine
and cool to room temperature on a
segments here and there. Scatter the remaining arugula on top and
baking sheet before combining with
drizzle the remaining vinaigrette on top. Serve immediately.
other ingredients.
variation
• Replace 2 tablespoons parsley with 2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh mint.
154 grain, bread & pasta salads
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bulgur with kale, preserved
lemon & green olives
2 cups fine bulgur
1 large clove garlic, pounded to a smooth
1 cup green olives, such as picholine
Kosher salt
paste with a pinch of salt
or lucques, rinsed well, pitted, and
coarsely chopped
1
Rind of 1 small preserved lemon,
⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
see p. XX, rinsed if necessary, and
olive oil; more for drizzling
2 to 3 ounces good-quality feta, crumbled
finely diced
11⁄2 pounds kale, preferably lacinato (also
Aleppo pepper, for sprinkling
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed
called dinosaur kale), stems removed (see
lemon juice
p. XX) and cut into about 1⁄2-inch pieces
add SubStance
Use only the preserved lemon rind for this salad (not the pulp), and taste a little piece I enjoy this salad with grilled or
of it before you begin. If it’s especially salty, give it a quick rinse.
pan-fried lamb chops. Prepared without
ServeS 6
the feta, try it with swordfish as wel ,
finished with a squeeze of lemon and a
thin drizzle of olive oil (or make a little
In a medium bowl, combine the bulgur with 2 teaspoons of salt. Stir in
extra vinaigrette to spoon on the fish.)
2 1⁄2 cups boiling water, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let stand until You can also use it as a stuffing for roast
the bulgur is tender, about 30 minutes. Drain any unabsorbed water.
chicken (again without the feta).
Lightly fluff the bulgur and set aside.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the preserved lemon rind, lemon juice,
and garlic in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in 1⁄2 cup
KS_TP_Prcs_Kale_82.tif
olive oil. Taste and add a pinch of salt if necessary (the salt in the preserved lemon is often enough).
Wash and drain the kale, but leave a good amount of water clinging to the
leaves. Warm a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons
olive oil, swirl to coat the pan, and add the kale in large handfuls. When
the kale has wilted, season it with salt, reduce the heat to medium, and
cover the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the kale is tender. The
residual water from washing should be enough to cook the kale, but if
the pan dries out before the kale is cooked, add a splash more water as
baSic SkillS
necessary. The cooking time will vary depending on the maturity of the
To quickly remove the stem from kale,
kale; tender kale will cook in about 3 minutes; mature leaves can take up to
grip the stem with one hand. With your
15 minutes. Set the kale aside at room temperature to cool briefly.
other hand, grip the stem at the base of
the leaf, and then slide your hand along
Add the kale and olives to the bulgur. Drizzle the vinaigrette on top
the stem toward the top of the leaf and
and fold gently to combine. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice if
strip the leaf off.
necessary. Spoon the salad onto a platter or individual plates, and scatter
the feta on top. Finish with a generous sprinkle of Aleppo pepper and a
thin drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately.
156 grain, bread & pasta salads
KS_TP_BlgrKale_31.tif
KS_TP_WWPsta_51.tif
whole-wheat pasta with
roasted broccoli, black olive
vinaigrette & ricotta salata
2 pounds broccoli
4 anchovy filets, pounded to a smooth
1 cup black olives, such as Niçoise or
paste (optional)
Nyons, rinsed well, pitted, and coarsely
3⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil; more for drizzling
1 small fresh red chile, such as Thai chile,
chopped
Kosher salt
sliced into thin ovals, or 1 tablespoon
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed, soaked,
preserved chiles (see p. XX), or to taste
drained, and coarsel
y chopped
1 pound short-cut, dry whole-wheat pasta
1
(any short-cut pasta will do)
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar; more
⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
as needed
parsley
2 cloves garlic, pounded to a smooth
paste with a pinch of salt
Ricotta salata, for shaving
Pasta salads are best when the pasta is dressed shortly after it’s cooked and served at room temperature. I enjoy earthy, whole-wheat pasta with the robust flavors in this salad, but you can also use regular pasta. You can make this with cauliflower instead of broccoli or a combination of. In lieu of the ricotta salata, try crumbled feta or goat’s milk cheese .
ServeS 4
Heat the oven to 450°F.
Remove any broccoli leaves. Cut the flowerets where they join the large
stem, then, starting at the top of the stem (just beneath the tiny buds),
cut through the stem lengthwise and divide the floret in half, preferably
without using the knife to cut through the flowery buds. Repeat the
process, dividing each floret into 2 to 4 pieces, until the top of each floret is about the size of a quarter.
Using a vegetable peeler or paring knife, peel off the tough outer skin from
the large broccoli stem, removing as little flesh as possible. Cut the stem into baton-shaped pieces about 1⁄4 inch wide and 2 inches long. Put the broccoli
on a baking sheet. Drizzle with about 1⁄4 cup oil, season with salt, and toss
lightly to coat. Spread in an even layer and roast in the oven until tender and nicely browned, about 15 minutes. Set aside at room temperature.
continued on page xx
grain, bread & pasta salads 159
continued from page xx
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Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with a generous amount of salt
(it should taste almost like seawater), then add the pasta and cook until al
dente, about 10 minutes. Drain the pasta well, transfer to a baking sheet,
and spread out to cool slightly at room temperature.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, anchovy (if using), chile,
and vinegar in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Add the olives,
capers, and the remaining 1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons oil to the vinegar
mixture, and stir to combine. Taste and season with more salt or vinegar
if necessary.
baSic SkillS
Put the pasta, broccoli, and parsley in a large work bowl. Add the
To cut broccoli and cauliflower, start at