Scottish Myths and Legends

by Rodger Moffet

  Even though over the years a lot of the border families fought amongst each other, even to the point of death, whenever one of them was attacked by an outsider they would stand shoulder to shoulder, united. The death of the popular Johnny Armstrong by James V caused great indignation throughout the border clans. The King's actions were considered underhand and unjust, especially since Armstrong and his men were unarmed, and the King's popularity along the borders hit a low.

  The grave of Johnnie Armstrong and his men remained undiscovered until around 30 years ago when a farmer working the field opposite Carlinrigg Chapel overturned a large stone. The stone was rectangular in shape and had unusual markings. The farmer contacted the Armstrong Association who were excited at the thought that he may have found discovered the final resting place of the infamous Johnnie Armstrong. A group of dowsers were brought in and positioned at different points of the field. They all set off, each of them finally came to a hot point at the same place -where the stone sat. Archaeologist arrived to survey the area and a mass grave was found at the point of the stone, which contained a large number of men, and it is generally accepted to be the grave of Armstrong and his men.

  The border reivers finally came to an end around the time of the Union of the Crowns in 1603. James VI, the grandson of James V, forcefully put an end to the raids by splitting up the families and deporting them to Ulster, or conscripting them off to Holland, or just executing them.

  Since the death of Johnny Armstrong there have been many stories as to what happened to his vast fortune. One rarely spoken story is that it is in fact buried at Langholm Castle, under a point where there is a risen part of the ground where a vault could easily be hidden. What secrets lie under it may go undiscovered but the tale of Johnny Armstrong will live forever.

  Rob Roy MacGregor

  By Rodger Moffet

  Like much Scottish history the tale of Rob Roy is shrouded in mystery and intrigue. The people of the time were mostly illiterate and stories of the famous battles and legendary characters were mainly passed down the generations by word of mouth, embellished as they went, to provide the great tales to be told around the roaring log fires of the cottages and Glens of the Highlands.

  Many of the stories of Rob Roy's exploits as an outlaw became Legends as the Scottish nation began to see him as a 'hero of the common man' who stood up against the land owners who had often been given the title to their lands in recognition of their assistance to monarchs who lived south of the border. The Macgregors, however, must have had more than their fair share of determination, for in circumstances, almost unparalleled in those savage times, they survived and the name of one of the most famous Scotsmen of all time, was a leader of their Clan – Rob Roy MacGregor, the notorious Scottish freebooter. Rob himself would have had no problem with this, for he was never one to hide the light of his countenance under a bushel. And the clan itself, the Griogair, 'the Children of the Mist', would think it only proper that their name should survive and be exalted while their most relentless persecutor, clan Campbell, should be for ever linked – however unfairly – with the Massacre of Glencoe.

  Rob Roy has been likened to a Scottish Robin Hood, an outlaw who braved the redcoats, laughed at authority and made Glengyle a Sherwood Forest where only his own people felt secure. The reality is grander, for the MacGregors were more than mere outlaws. Is Rioghaid mo Dhream, they claim, 'Royal is my race', and boast descent from Griogair, son of Alpin, King of Scots in the early ninth centaury. Malcolm, chief of the clan, fought at Bruce's side at Bannockburn and followed Edward Bruce on his Irish adventure, retiring wounded from the fatal encounter at Dundalk. The rise of the Campbells, who also supported Bruce meant lean times for MacGregor, although the clan endured for centuries.

  With Campbell prodding, the Crown ordered letters of 'fire and sword' – legal murder and pillage – against the MacGregors, and the Colquhouns of Luss helped in these raids. This led to MacGregor retaliation and the battle of Glen Fruin in 1603. Over a hundred Colquhouns were slain, but so were some luckless Lowlanders who had come to watch the fun. It is difficult to feel sympathy for them, for they left the security of their homes in the expectation of witnessing others being slaughtered, only to become victims themselves.

  The outcome, however, was equally grim for the MacGregors; by an act of the Privy Council, dated 3 April 1603, the very name of MacGregor was proscribed; all who had taken part in the battle were prohibited from carrying any weapon other than a knife with its point broken or rounded off and could not meet in groups of more than four. The penalty for breaking any of these rules was death.

  Amongst themselves the MacGregors, no doubt, used their own names. To sign documents, or to appear to the world outside their own clan, they used the names of neighboring peoples. Campbell, Graham, Drummond, Stewart. The clan remained united; some hundreds fought for King Charles I under Patrick MacGregor of Glenstrae. In gratitude, Charles II annulled the statutes of 1633 against them in 1661, but William of Orange reinstated them in 1693. It was in this new era of persecution that Rob Roy came into prominence.

  The Birth of Rob Roy

  His mother a Campbell, his father Lieutenant – Colonel MacGregor of Glengyle, Rob Roy was the second son so was never chief of the clan, although he was its captain in time of war. Rob Roy was born around 1671 in Glengyle, and seemed to be fairly law-abiding in his youth – for a MacGregor – although this could be disputed. There is a story about the village of Kippen when Rob Roy was supposedly a lawful cattle-drover. This would be around 1691, when William would have just been made king.

  Rob Roy was droving 200 cattle to the tryst (market) at Buchlyvie, crossing the fords of Frew on the way. How he came by the cattle is arguable, but perhaps he was working honestly for his living at the time. When he came to Kippen all that changed, for the temptation of the villagers' cattle was difficult for any Highlander, brought up on tales of reiving and raiding, to resist. Rob Roy swept through the place, driving everything movable before him.

  At the fords of Frew, one of the few places where the huge Flanders Moss was passable, Rob Roy was caught by a party of dragoons from Cardross but he used the land and his MacGregors to panic them. What the good folk of Kippen thought of all this romantic thievery is not mentioned in the legend. No doubt they laughed heartily at the antics of that jolly outlaw, Rob Roy, as they looked at a bleak and hungry future. Shortly after, Rob Roy married Mary MacGregor of Cromar, his second cousin and a match for him in every way. Perhaps it was the responsibility of marriage which quietened the wild streak in him, for he seems to have returned to droving for some years, borrowing money from the Duke of Montrose to keep himself solvent. In this he made a mistake, for it was a major cause of subsequent events; this, the fact he was a Jacobite in an extremely disturbed Scotland, and the proud MacGregor blood which flowed through him.

  When Rob Roy discovered he was bankrupt in 1712, he slipped into the hills until the matter passed over. Montrose sent Graham of Killearn, his factor, with a body of men to Rob Roy's house inInversnaid at the head of Loch Katrine (loch of the caterans, or thieves). Rob Roy was not there, but his lands were seized, his houses plundered and his wife and children evicted in midwinter. To any man this would lead to anger, but there would be little they could do. Rob Roy MacGregor was not just any man and his wife was as implacable as he.

  From that day, Rob Roy and his clansmen waged an open war of attrition on the Duke of Montrose and Graham of Killearn, his factor. The duke's estates spread to the Highland border, temptingly easy to raid, and Rob Roy vowed they would keep him in cattle until his last day. He kept his word. The raids began, and so did the legends.

  Graham of Killearn was Rob Roy's principal target; once, Rob Roy found him at the inn at Chapel-darroch (then a township, now shrunk to a farm) and quietly kidnapped him. The factor was taken to the shores of Loch Katrine, thrown on a boat and rowed to Eilean Dubh at the head of the loch. Here killearn was held until Rob decided to let him go unharmed; fo
r Rob Roy was no killer.

  On another occasion, the factor was collecting rents at the same inn when Rob Roy looked through a window and observed him. Killearn was placing a bag of money in a cupboard, claiming he would give it all way for Rob Roy's head. At this time Rob Roy had only one man with him, but he shouted commands to a score of imaginary followers and boldly entered the inn with his sole companion. After forcing Killearn to write a receipt to each tenant, Rob Roy used the factor's money to buy food and drink for all his company, warned Killearn to sit still for an hour and left the inn.

  Rob Roy, however, was more than just a taunter of Killearn. He was a blackmailer, of the original kind where blackmail meant payment to prevent cattle being taken, and any man of property or wealth could be a victim. The Campbells suffered: Sir Colin Campbell of Aberwehill and Kilbryde was blackmailed, although his son, James, was bold enough to refuse payment. Rob Roy waited until James was at dinner with a gathering of friends, rounded up the Kilbryde cattle and demanded payment or he would take the lot. The shamefaced laird had no option but to pay up.

  In the middle of his career, Rob Roy had a diversion as the Jacobite rising of 1715 erupted. Captain of the clan, Rob Roy led his followers to the battle at Sheriffmuir, arrived late and halted at the Allan Water. Here he stayed, his MacGregors a disciplined guard as the Highlanders of the left wing withdrew from Argyll's redcoats. Not a heroic part, but the battle was already lost and his first responsibility was to his clan, not to a man who might be king.

  There were other brushes with the redcoats. For instance, the time when the Glasgow volunteers marched north to claim a 1000-pound reward Rob Roy had on his head – and fled at first sight of the MacGregors. There was the near-forgotten rising of 1719 and the battle in Glenshiel where 300 Spaniards surrendered. There was the encounter at Duchary Castle when Rob Roy slipped out the back door while Graham sister kept dragoon officers amused at the front.

  There was also the fort built at Inversnaid. Traces of this building still remain on a hillock overlooking the Snaid and Arklet Water, but it had a very difficult task. Twice before it was built, Rob Roy destroyed it, and the redcoats stationed here, with wild MacGregors watching their movements, must never have let their hands stray from their muskets.

  That fort was the only one built in the Highlands in this period; together with the roads designed by Wade it was intended to quell the Highlanders, of whom Wade had said, 'and the MacGregors on the borders of Argyllshire. They go out in parties from 10 to 30 men, traverse large tracts of mountains until they arrive at the Lowlands … they drive the stolen cattle at the night time and in the day remain in the mountains or in the woods, with which the Highlands abound, and take the first occasion to sell then at the fairs and markets that are annually held.'

  The Gallow Lee; The Monsters in the Mortar

  By Rodger Moffet

  A few years ago I read James Robertson's excellent book; 'The Fanatic'. The book tells the story of an Edinburgh tour guide and how he becomes obsessed with the gruesome character he portrays. In one passage of the book the character mentions a place called the 'Gallow Lee' an area just beside Leith Walk in Edinburgh where all manner of executions were carried out. I recently came across some more information about this place and its real history was even more ghastly than the fictional account.

  Leith Walk is a ribbon of Shops Café's and bars that runs from the east end of the city centre to the historical port of Leith. The origin of this thoroughfare goes back to the time of Oliver Cromwell and his attempts to capture the city. In order to repel his attacks Sir Alexander Leslie in command of the Scottish Army created a 'breastwork'; a chest high defensive earthwork wall as part of the city defences. This wall ran northwards from the city centre down to the shore. The defences were incredibly effective and Cromwell was held off till after his victory at Dunbar.

  In time buildings began to spring up along the line of these defences, a gravel path was laid down and coaches would ferry people to and from the port. Leith Walk was born!

  At around the halfway point, just where the traditional boundary where Edinburgh and Leith meet is an area called Shrubhill. This was a sandy hill on the western side of the road. Being outside the city boundaries this was the city of Edinburgh disposed of its more troublesome problems!

  In 17th century Edinburgh public executions were a common spectacle. But sometimes there was a problem where a person sentenced to execution was either too high profile or for one reason or another there was concern that the execution may cause unrest. In some cases the manner of execution was too much even by 17th century standards. Edinburgh chose the Gallow Lee in Shrubhill to deal with its dirty business. A permanent 'gibbet' was set up on the hill and on most days a body would be seen swinging from it. Witches were put to death, sometimes mercifully strangled before being burned and as the years progressed the ashes of the dead added to the sandy mound.

  Covenanter executions were a frequent site too and there were a few high profile scandalous murderers who were put to death on the Gallow Lee: There was the Reverent John Kelloe for example; a respectable minister from Dunbar who had murdered his wife. Another very notable 'customer' was Norman Ross, a footman who had murdered his employer Lady Baillie, sister of the Laird of Wedderburn. For around two years his rotting corpse was left to swing on the gibbet being picked at by crows.

  Until halfway into the 18th century this ghastly landmark stood on the route into Edinburgh. However the draining of the Nor loch and the expansion of the city to the North led to a new period of development. Stone was quarried from nearby Craigleith quarry to build the fashionable 'New town' The builders looked for a source of sand to add to the lime mortar and hit upon the Gallow Lee. The owner of the land charged the builders to cart away the sand, containing the ashes and other remains of thousands of victims. It is said that every penny he earned went straight to the local publicans – so much so that a public house (the halfway house) sprung up nearby!

  Soon the sandy mound of the Gallow Lee was gone and all that remained was a hollow. As I write this the site of the Gallow Lee is once more waste ground, formerly occupied as a bus depot now awaiting redevelopment. But how many of those living in the trendy apartments in Edinburgh's New town realise that the very fabric of their building is bound together with the remains of Witches, covenanters and criminals?

  The Cannibal Earl of Drumlanrig

  By Rodger Moffet

  While sitting on the steps outside Edinburgh's 'Dynamic Earth' visitor attraction the other day our family were admiring the view over to the Scottish Parliament building. My wife pointed to the older whitewashed building that nestles in the heart of the new parliament complex and asked me if that was part of the parliament too. The building in question was Queensberry House. Not knowing a great deal about it I called up the internet on my phone to find out more. Little did I realise that this innocent looking building would hold such dark secrets!

  Queensberry House was built in 1667 for Dame Margaret Douglas of Balmakellie. It was bought a few years later by Charles Maitland, 'Lord Hatton' and then sold again in 1689 to William Douglas, the 1st Duke of Queensberry. The first Dukes daughter died in the house under horrific circumstances; her apron caught fire, causing her terrible facial injuries from which she died.

  When William died in 1695 the estates passed to his eldest son James Douglas who became the 2nd Duke of Queensberry. James was either an incredible shrewd political operator or was incredibly naïve, As Lord High Commissioner for Scotland between 1700 and 1703 he sided with the Jacobites, leading to his resignation. But then in 1705 he pops back into political life, reinvented as Keeper of the Privy Seal. In 1707 he orchestrates the Act of Union and Scotland's days as an independent nation are ended.

  But James had a dark secret and on the very night the act was signed a terrible and ghastly crime would shock the nation and shame the name of Douglas.

  The Duke's eldest son James was referred to in many peerage records to have 'd
ied young' there is very little mention of him at all and with good reason. James Douglas, Earl of Drumlanrig was completely insane! From childhood he was kept under lock and key in a ground floor room in Queensberry House, the room with windows boarded up and kept in permanent darkness. He was a large brutish boy of great strength and incredibly dangerous.

  On the night the Treaty of Union was being signed the city was in uproar! Some were celebrating but many more were rioting! The Duke, perhaps he was celebrating the vast sum that was going to come his way for his involvement in the negotiation of the act or perhaps he was trying to escape the mob, either way he was well away from Queensberry house that night. Fatefully so were most of the staff and most importantly so was the valet charged with the responsibility of watching after the young Earl.

  The Earl managed to break out of his room and began to wander the empty house in a lust of hunger and rage. He stalked around the huge mansion for some time until the smell of cooking drew him to one of the many kitchens. There he fell upon a young kitchen boy, quickly overpowering him he proceeded to take the poor child and attach him (by means we will not go into here) to a spit and roast the body over the fire!