In Search of the Perfect Loaf: A Home Baker's Odyssey
Page 28
Index
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A. Zito & Sons Bakery, 5–6
acidity, 50, 72, 79, 81–82, 86, 92, 111–12, 166, 208, 252
Acme Bread, 91
additives, 31, 33–36, 104, 138
agriculture, 78–79, 131, 137, 142, 144, 160–61, 166, 170, 179, 181, 197, 228, 264, 267
Alaska, 171
alveoli (the crumb), 19, 267. See also crumb
American bread, 30, 35, 44, 49, 92
airy/soft, 192
amount of salt in, 46
early types of, 132
lacks health benefits, 215
new directions in, 258–60
“rye-injun,” 132
wholesale, 7, 52–53, 69–70
See also artisan bread: American
ancient wheat varieties, 11, 141–49, 157, 173–77, 179, 181–84, 228–30, 233, 235–37, 254, 259–60, 268, 271–72
Anson Mills, 231–32, 246–47, 253–54
Archer Daniels Midland mill, 164
Arrowhead Mills flour, 220
artisan bread, 6, 15
American, 28, 50, 69–70, 91–92, 98–99, 103–4, 108–9, 258–60
and artisan grains, 183, 246
characteristics of, 267
and flour, 103–4
French, 2, 22, 28, 194
Italian, 194
movement of, 67, 85
and wheat, 157–59, 270
Asheville, North Carolina, 92, 246
Asia, 75, 145, 147, 155, 170, 268, 273
Athens, Georgia, 165
Australia, 170, 292
Austria, 30, 203
autolyse method
and baguettes, 22, 24, 26, 29–30, 39, 44, 55
description of, 22, 267
and flatbread, 129, 153
importance of, 102
and pain de campagne, 118
and wheat bread, 236–38
bagels, 4, 6–7, 16, 104, 158, 192
baguettes
additive-free, 33–36
American, 258–59
award-winning, 21, 38, 53, 60, 90–91, 239
baguettes (cont.)
commercially made, 52–53
contests held for, 50–53, 105
couche (linen cloth) for, 21, 95–96, 268
critiquing of, 27–28, 32–33, 38, 52–53
cultural history of, 26, 30–34, 36
decline in quality, 26, 28–34, 43
and fermentation process, 259
flours used for, 100, 166
with levain/sourdough, 41, 49–50, 52–55, 60–65, 96
making/baking of, 3, 14, 18–22, 24–26, 38–54
renaissance of, 33–37, 41, 43
state regulations for, 36
as symbol of France, 26–27, 43
bakeries, neighborhood, 4–6, 14, 26, 32, 49
bakers
camaraderie among, 110
and consistency, 128
as family tradition, 37, 45
at home, 20–21, 30, 38, 90–91, 93, 120, 128, 133, 157–58, 247, 260
humanity of, 251–52
Jewish, 192–96, 202
and lack of skill, 43
professional, 3, 128, 260
regulation of, 138
and standardized bread, 31–32
and regulations, 36
and superlative flour, 164
See also specific names
baking stone, 9–10, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63–65, 119–20, 122, 124
baking trade, 43, 99, 228
Baking with Julia (Child), 70
bannetons (baskets), 111
Banville, Jule, 51
barley, 127, 172, 186, 260
added to flour, 75–76
early use of, 11, 131–33, 137–38, 140, 142–46, 267
experiments with, 215
as food staple, 177
health benefits of, 137
as leaven, 73
locally grown, 241, 248
and making beer, 77–78
and rye, 193, 202
bâtards, 96
Beach Pea Baking Co., 140
Beard, James, 67
Beard on Bread, 67
Beauce, France, 33
beer, 11, 44, 67, 72, 74, 77–80, 132, 144, 146, 148, 267, 272
Berg, Norman, 193
Berlin, Germany, 186, 249
and Backferment, 127, 217
rye bread in, 194–95, 197–209, 214–16
and WW II, 195–97, 216
Bertinet, Richard, 39
biodiversity, 140, 172–73, 179, 227–28
Bittman, Mark, 30
Bocuse d’Or, 98
Borlaug, Norman, 169–70
boulangerie, 2–3, 32
in Cucugnan, 228–30, 234
in Paris, 18, 21–27, 36, 41–49, 239–40
“paysannes,” 228–29
resurrection of, 8, 36
See also specific names
Boulangerie Delmontel, 18, 23, 27, 29, 33–34, 38–40, 42, 49, 102, 239–40
boules, 96, 119
Boyce, Kim, 247
bran, 132, 134–40, 155, 158, 163, 187, 209, 214, 230–31, 248–49, 253, 268, 271–72
Bread (Hamelman), 72, 82
Bread Alone (Leader), 8, 68
Bread Bakers Guild of America, 28
Bread Builders, The, 109
bread making
and consistency, 116, 128, 139–40
as craft, 31–32, 37, 70, 104, 240, 251–52, 260
essential elements for, 48, 100, 120, 175
and fabrication en direct, 29–30
foolproof method of, 30
and free spirits, 99
hands-on approach to, 3, 104, 252
history of, 11, 67, 73–74, 78–79, 129–34, 137–38, 140, 231–32, 244
as metaphor for life, 11
oldest methods of, 67, 238
personal connection with, 228–29, 233–34, 236, 251–52
practicing of, 9, 13–14, 84–85, 116
seasonal changes in, 140
and the senses, 10–11, 13
standardization of, 251
two-day regime for, 111–12
bread wheat, 104, 145, 147–48, 171–72, 244, 251, 268, 270, 272
Breadline restaurant, 7
Breads from the La Brea Bakery (Silverton), 69, 71
breeding wheat, 155–58, 165, 168–77, 182, 186, 227–28, 245, 259–60, 270
Broeck, Hetty van der, 174–77
Brooklyn, New York, 4, 6, 12, 27, 161, 193, 215–16
buckwheat, 127, 131, 134, 140, 143, 193, 236, 247
Build Your Own Earth Oven (Denzer), 261
California, northern, 91–92, 95, 99, 108, 113, 236, 246, 248
Calvel, Raymond, 26, 33, 267
Campanile restaurant, 69–70
Canada, 35, 158–59, 245
caraway seeds, 192, 194, 198, 202
Carman, Tim, 50–53
Carolina Ground, 246
cast-iron griddle, 130, 149–51, 153–54
celiac disease, 147, 174–77, 212–13, 268
Central Milling, 113
cereals, 78, 130–31, 141–42, 170, 176–77, 186, 213, 240, 264, 272
Chardon, Thomas, 21–22, 26, 29, 36, 38–40, 239
Chartres, France, 35
Chevallier, Jim, 31
ChewsWise.com, 60
Chez Panisse, 90–91, 120, 248
chickpeas, 132, 145, 153–54, 177, 205, 267
Child, Julia, 35, 70
China, 73, 76, 78, 147
CIMMYT, 170–72
CityZen restaurant, 51
Clark, Earl, 155–57, 173
Clark’s Cream, 155–56
climate change, 171–72
Cobb Neck, Maryland, 240–41
Community Grains, 246<
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competitions
for baguettes, 27, 105–6
in Las Vegas, 98–99
in Paris, 27, 51–53, 99, 106–7
in Washington, D.C., 51–53
winners of, 21, 38, 53, 60, 90–91, 98, 107
See also specific names
corn/cornmeal, 127, 132, 134, 149, 153, 155, 166–69, 205
country bread, 70, 108, 110, 113, 117, 215. See also pain de campagne
Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, 98, 106–7
crumb, 54, 66, 97, 268
airy, 35, 55, 113, 116, 165
of baguettes, 19, 35, 38, 48, 52–55, 60
and fermentation, 30, 209
holes in, 19, 35, 104, 111, 238, 267
and lactic acid, 79
in rye bread, 193, 208, 218
in wheat bread, 208, 250
crust
of baguettes, 19–20, 26, 30–31, 35, 52–53, 60
and fermentation, 30, 111
flavor of, 53
and lactic acid, 79
and oven type, 30, 97, 98
in rye bread, 193
and sourdough, 66
and sugar, 35
wrapped up, 129
Cucugnan, France, 225–29, 238, 259
Cyprus, 132, 143
Danish Rugbrød, 215
Darby, Heather, 245
Dean & DeLuca, 133
Della Fattoria, 93–98, 110–11
Delmontel, Arnaud, 21–22, 36–38, 44, 50, 239–40. See also Boulangerie Delmontel
Delmontel, Valérie, 40
Denzer, Kiko, 261
diversity, 83, 140, 148
and flour qualities, 186
genetic, 76, 170–71, 173, 182
of grains, 127–34, 141, 145, 177, 259
importance of, 133
increase in, 172, 259
lack of, 171, 173–74, 177, 186, 259
plant, 168, 171, 179
dough
elasticity of, 102–4, 114, 116, 118, 147, 174, 194, 207, 236, 268, 272
extensibility of, 103, 165, 174, 236, 249, 267, 269
frozen, 32, 36, 69–70
hydration of, 16, 22, 49, 55, 84, 112–14, 121–22, 129, 153, 207, 223, 236, 270
oxidized, 31–32, 40, 249, 271
par-baked, 32, 69
refrigeration of, 44, 51, 119, 153
and sense of touch, 13, 104, 113–14, 260
tolerance of, 103
and “windowpane test,” 118, 237
Du Pain et Des Idées, 41
Durham, North Carolina, 94
durum wheat, 127, 146–47, 171–72, 174–75, 268
East Africa, 173
East Coast, 159, 244–46, 251
ecology, 74, 79, 81, 84–85, 91, 98, 113, 211–12
Egypt, 67, 136, 146, 163, 270
Eimer, Dirk, 198–99
einkorn wheat, 140, 143–46, 173–77, 179, 186, 268–69, 271
emmer wheat, 128, 140, 143, 146–47, 149–51, 171–72, 176, 186, 215, 268, 270
England, 11, 95, 227
enzymes, 72, 75–77, 86, 127, 138, 177, 205, 208–9, 267–68
Ethiopia, 11, 175, 181
EuroPain trade show, 32, 34–35, 106–7
Europe, 8, 67
competitions in, 107
and bread consistency, 116
and coarse loaves, 137–38
and grains, 131–32, 157
and high-extraction flour, 164
and mad-cow scares, 36
and rye, 192–93, 195, 272
and seed diversity, 171
and wheat, 11, 145–47, 175, 179, 268
European-style loaves, 215
famine/hunger, 132–34, 161, 169–70, 185
farmers’ markets, 94, 99, 105–7, 168, 216, 218, 246–48
farming
biodynamic, 197, 244
of grains, 128, 130–31, 142–46, 148, 155, 157
organic, 166–68, 181, 184–85, 197, 228–29, 235–36, 240–48
personal connection to, 167–68, 228–29, 246
of wheat, 155–62, 168–73, 177, 179, 181–85, 227–28, 234–36, 240–46, 251–52, 259
farro, 242
fava bean flour, 31, 132
Fedco seed cooperative, 180
Feillet, Loic, 53
fermentation, 9, 13, 20, 22, 251
age-old techniques of, 33, 78–79
and Backferment, 205, 267
and carbon dioxide gas, 207–8
and dough flavor, 45, 82
history of, 73–77
and industrial breads, 213
and levain/sourdough, 16, 29, 66, 68–73, 82, 86, 92, 177, 209, 213–14, 220, 272
long period of, 92, 111–12, 134, 209, 252, 259
process of, 16, 43–45, 48, 75–76, 260
and refrigeration, 119, 272
and rye, 205, 218
stimulation of, 29–30, 50, 72, 127
Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, 94
Fertile Crescent, 141–45, 147–49, 157, 252, 267–68
Feuillas, Maryse, 232
Feuillas, Roland, 55, 225, 227–40, 248, 252–54, 259
Feuillas, Valérie, 225, 227, 230
Field, Carol, 93
Fife, David and Jane, 158
flatbread, 15, 129–30, 132, 149, 153–54
flavor, 35, 42, 118, 260
of baguettes, 38, 40, 50, 53–55
and blended flours, 101, 146
and fermentation, 76, 82, 112, 214
flavor (cont.)
and flour type, 81, 134, 138, 147–48, 153, 158, 198, 233, 254
of grains, 24, 130, 134, 248
lack of, 31, 45, 128, 214
and lactic acid, 79, 86, 270
and levain, 111, 231
and pâte fermentée, 74
of rye, 194, 202, 217
and salt, 45–46, 54
and sourdough, 66, 72, 81–82
and water, 231
of wheat, 44, 46, 146, 155, 165, 253, 273
and wood-fired ovens, 47, 97–98
flax/flaxseeds, 3, 127, 135, 145, 258
flour, 128–29, 252, 260
and additives, 31, 33–36, 104
all-purpose, 16, 104, 158