American, 39, 49–50
blending of, 100–1, 104, 113, 117, 148, 150, 155, 165, 249, 251
“bread flour,” 16, 103–4
in French breads, 20, 22, 24, 29, 33–36, 44–45, 49–50
grades of, 137
high-extraction, 164
history of, 11, 132, 136, 138–39
and leftover bread, 132, 202
local, 44–45, 246–51
making of, 134–37
nutritional value of, 231
protein in, 22, 39, 49, 52, 54, 103–4, 131, 136, 139, 158, 254
refined, 30, 132, 251
seasonal changes in, 113
on shaping surface, 114–16, 199–200, 237–38
sifted/bolted, 100–1, 136–38, 163–65, 187, 230–32, 253, 268
storing of, 127, 254
See also milling; specific grains
food, 2, 36
chain, 167
and fermentation, 73, 77, 211
local, 14, 90–91, 145
prices of, 246
shortages of, 132, 139, 143, 148, 169, 185
supply of, 133, 144, 168–73, 177
and sustained energy, 215
See also sustenance
Food and Drug Administration, 186
France, 35, 139, 179, 183–84, 219, 225–38, 248, 253. See also French bread; specific cities, towns
free-threshing wheat, 142, 269
freekeh (smoked spelt), 128, 143, 149
French bread
amount of salt in, 45–46
cultural history of, 18–19, 28–33, 36
declines in quality, 26, 28–34, 43, 52
early history of, 132–33, 138–39
and einkorn flour, 145–46
historian of, 27–28
industrialization of, 31–36
as national symbol, 2, 26–27, 32, 43
and pain d’égalité, 139
and petit épeautre, 146
resurrection of, 2, 8, 28, 33
See also Paris, France; specific types; supermarkets
French Laundry Kitchen, 13
French Mediterranean flour, 231, 247, 253–55
FreshFarm Market, 240
fruit flies, 80–81
Furstenberg, Mark, 7, 51, 53
Gadouas, Jeremey, 98
Gänzle, Michael, 80–81, 209
gatherers, 141–42, 144, 184
George, Randy, 165, 250–51
German Detmolder rye , 82
Germany, 11, 161, 179, 183, 195, 203, 205, 244, 252, 267. See also Berlin, Germany
Ginsberg, Stanley, 193
gluten, 9–10, 44, 113, 269
and autolyse method, 29, 39
development of, 30, 102–3, 118, 165, 209, 250
protein in, 102–3, 158, 174–77, 207, 268, 271
sensitivity to, 173–77, 212–13, 268
strengthening of, 31, 197–98, 248–49
translucence of, 96
gluten-free baking, 134, 148, 212–13
Gobbetti, Mario, 212–13
Göbekli Tepe (Turkey), 144–45
Golden Buffalo flour, 163, 165
Good Bread Is Back (Kaplan), 49
Gosselin, Philippe, 36
grains, 11
artisan, 183
diversity of, 127–30, 133, 140–41, 259–60
health benefits of, 137–39
history of, 130–46, 252
identity-preserved, 187
locally grown, 130, 145, 240–48, 260
markets for, 157, 159, 162, 246
prices of, 162, 247
winnowing of, 163
See also specific types
grapes, 43, 70, 73–74, 76, 78–79, 91, 145
Great Plains, 148, 157–60, 188, 244–45, 252, 269
Greece, 179
Green Revolution, 169–72, 176
Gural, Roger, 13
Hamelman, Jeffrey, 72, 82, 129–30, 149, 153, 195, 251
Hart, Richard, 95–97, 110–11, 113, 115
Healea, Tim, 117, 258–59
Heartland Mill, 156, 159–66, 187, 247, 249
heritage/heirloom wheat, 140–41, 147–48, 159, 173, 178, 231–32, 245–46, 253
Hippocrates, 137
Hodgson Mill, 217, 220
honey, 71–72, 77–78, 86–87, 205, 233, 267
Hungary, 30
Hungry Ghost Bread, 246
immigrants, 4, 6–7, 157, 159, 161
Independent Baking Co., 165
India, 147, 169–71, 204
industrial bread making, 31–35, 69–70, 98, 104, 156, 158, 213, 251
insects, 80–81. See also fruit flies; wasps
Inside the Jewish Bakery (Ginsberg and Berg), 193, 202
International Maize and Wheat Improvement Center, 170. See also CIMMYT
Iran, 76, 78, 141, 147, 173
Iraq, 141
Israel, 141, 179, 181, 268
Italian Baker, The (Field), 93
Italian bread, 5–6, 83–84, 93–94, 96, 105, 113, 117, 132–33, 140, 258
Italy, 76, 84, 132, 179, 212, 292
Japan, 107, 169
Jerf el Ahmar (Syria), 144
Jewish bread, 192–95, 202, 216
Jones, Stephen, 245
Jordan, 141, 143, 268
Journal of Theoretical and Applied Genetics, 175
Kamir, Basil, 8
Kamut bread, 100, 259, 270
KanKing wheat, 155
Kansas, 155–57, 159–62, 164–65, 170, 244, 246
Kaplan, Steven, 27–28, 30, 32–33, 38, 40, 42, 49, 52, 138–39
Katz, Sol, 77
Kayser, Éric, 37, 41, 49
King Arthur flour, 16, 129, 217, 251, 264, 291
kneading, 9
folding method of, 39, 55–56, 102
by hand, 19, 28–29, 80, 194, 254
by machine, 31–32, 194
and “no knead” technique, 30, 83
Kneading Conference, 261
Kochko, Patrick de, 228
Koehn, Karlan, 167–68
Krankl, Manfred, 69
La Brea Bakery, 69–70, 91. See also Silverton, Nancy
La Farm Bakery, 94
La Maison Pichard, 42–49
lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacilli), 79–84, 86, 112, 144, 165, 205, 210–14, 220, 234, 267, 270
Lahey, Jim, 30, 83–84
Lajoie, Gabrielle, 242–43
Lakview Organic Grain, 148, 184
lame (curved razor), 25, 61, 122, 191, 254, 270
landraces, 130–31, 140–41, 145, 157–58, 170–77, 179, 181, 183, 270
Lapidus, Jennifer, 246
Las Vegas Convention Center, 98–99
Lawn, C. R., 180
Le Nouvel Observateur, 26
Leader, Daniel, 8, 50, 68–69, 85, 117
Lebovitz, David, 153
Leonard, Thom, 165, 246
Les Maîtres de Mon Moulin, 228
levain (sourdough), 16, 29, 41, 48–49, 52–54, 60, 66, 92, 95, 110–12, 187, 230–31, 234, 236, 272
Levy, Henry, 192
Levy’s Jewish Rye, 192, 194
Libeskind, Daniel, 196
Lithuania, 193
Little T American Baker, 117, 258–59
Local Breads (Leader), 117
locavore movement, 218, 244
Los Angeles, California, 69–70
MacGuire, James, 29
Madison, Wisconsin, 37–38
Maillard reaction, 35, 53, 270–71
Maine, 92, 128, 140, 180, 182–83, 245–46, 261
Maine Grains, 246
Marienthal, Kansas, 160–61
Martens, Klaas and Mary-Howell, 128, 148–49, 184–85
Maryland, 128, 240–41, 244–45, 247
Massachusetts, 92, 177, 179, 244–46
McGovern, Patrick, 78–79
Mennonites, 157, 161
Meunier, Gérard, 33–35
Mexico, 170–71
miche, 33, 36, 48, 67, 187–91, 252
Middle
East, 77–78, 128, 175
millet, 73, 127, 131, 140
milling, 104, 165, 209
of all-purpose flour, 16–17, 158
early history of, 134–37, 139, 141–42, 144
and flavor, 254, 260
in France, 32–36, 43, 227–28
in Great Plains, 156–57, 159, 167
by hand, 100, 135–37, 144, 149
mechanically, 139, 159, 162–64, 251
and nutrients, 214, 249
regulation of, 138
of rye, 195, 197–98, 205, 214–15, 217
using stone mills, 197–98, 217, 227–28, 230–31, 246, 249, 251–53
and white bread, 138–39, 186
See also specific mills
mixing dough, 54
direct method of, 29–30
by “feel,” 113–16
by hand, 9, 38–39, 99, 101–2, 113–14, 118, 217, 249, 251
intensively, 52, 76, 156, 158
mechanically, 22, 24, 29–30, 31–33, 45, 69, 102, 104, 194, 205–7, 236, 251
minimally, 29, 35, 44, 49, 236
steel troughs for, 42–44, 205
Moullé, Pierre, 120
Nathan, Joan, 51–53, 91
National Academy of Sciences, 168, 171
Natural History (Pliny the Elder), 73
natural leaven, 15–16, 19, 50, 54, 67, 121, 198, 272
Near East, 147
Nebraska, 159, 244, 264
Neolithic farmers, 142–46, 171, 184–85
New York, 246, 259
New York City, 92, 133, 193, 216
Next Step Produce, 242
Nightengale, Mark, 156, 160–64, 166–67
Nora’s Restaurant, 247
Northampton, Massachusetts, 246
Norway, 172, 174
Norwich, Vermont, 129, 291
oats, 127, 131, 149, 202, 248
Oregon State University, 74
organic
bread, 205
flour, 145–46, 162, 166–68, 220, 228, 247
grains, 128, 148–49, 162
sourdough, 127
wheat, 166–68, 228–29, 267
See also farming: organic
Ortiz, Joe, 8, 55
“oven spring,” 11, 25, 50, 68, 97, 103, 105, 120, 190, 238
ovens, 11, 261
builders of, 93, 109
earthen, 261–62
professional, 53, 109–11
ovens (cont.)
steam-injected, 20, 30, 51, 97, 105, 111, 201, 218
wood-fired, 33, 41–42, 44, 46–47, 92–100, 105, 108–9, 111–12, 129–30, 153
pain de campagne, 85, 100, 117–19, 187, 254
pan-loaf bread, 156, 158, 202, 217–18, 220
pane casareccio di Genzano, 117, 119–20
Panorama bakery, 53
Paris, France, 36, 94
best baguettes in, 21, 38, 42
bread baking history of, 18–19, 29, 138
bread tradition renewed in, 2, 8, 33
competitions in, 99, 106–7
and fabrication en direct, 29–30
making baguettes in, 3, 14, 18, 21–22, 24–27, 29, 38–40, 53, 238–39
and white bread, 138–39
See also Boulangerie Delmontel
pâte fermentée (fermented dough), 73–74
paysannes boulangers, 228–29
peels, 40, 42, 46, 94–95, 97, 129, 238, 271
Peemoeller, Harry, 98
Petaluma, California, 93–94, 107
Picardy, France, 44–45
Pichard, Frédéric, 42–49, 113, 259
pistors, 134–37, 142
pizza dough, 16, 103–4, 147, 261–62
Pliny the Elder, 73–74, 87, 134, 137
Poilâne, Apollonia, 41–42
Poilâne, Lionel, 32–33, 36, 41–42, 48, 67
Point Reyes Station, California, 108–9, 111–12
Poland, 11, 158, 193
Ponsford, Craig, 246
poolish technique, 54, 271
population growth, 169–70, 173
Portland, Oregon, 2, 92, 117, 246, 258
Portuguese broa de milho, 132
pre-ferment, 54, 208, 267, 271
pretzels, 16, 104
Prix de la Meilleure Baguette de Paris, 21
proofing, 100, 119, 271–72
Prueitt, Elisabeth, 108, 112
pumpernickel, 4
railroad, 157, 159, 160
Ramsay, Gordon, 95
recipes, 10, 13–14, 53–54, 140
for baguettes, 20, 49–50, 55–65
for flatbread, 149–54
introduction to, 15–17
Pain Nature, 253–57
Roggenweizenbrot, 214–15, 220–24
for sourdough, 86–89, 112
Stirato, 55–60
Turkey Red Miche, 187–91
Red Hen Baking Co., 165, 250
red spring wheat, 250, 269
red winter wheat, 16, 49, 127–28, 143, 149, 155, 157–59, 186, 244, 269–70
Reinhart, Peter, 117, 208, 247
Réseau Semences Paysannes, 228
resting (autolyse) method. See autolyse method
rising, of dough, 102, 158, 218, 237
and carbon dioxide gas, 44, 76, 79, 207–8
in couche (linen cloth), 21, 95–96, 238, 268
different stages of, 269, 271
and elasticity, 116
and flavor, 55, 76, 118
in refrigerator, 39–40, 49, 51–52, 111–12, 119
and rye, 200–1
time needed for, 16, 35, 55, 100
and whole grains, 251
and yeast/bacteria, 29–30
Roberts, Glenn, 232, 254
Roberts, Mariah, 140
Robertson, Chad, 91, 108–15, 215, 247–48, 259
Rogosa, Eli, 177–83, 244, 252
Rome, 11, 73, 132, 134, 137, 142, 147, 272
Roshi, Suzuki, 233–34
Ross, Andrew, 74
Russia, 4, 133, 147, 169
rye, 29, 128, 133, 186, 259–60
and Backferment, 127, 198, 205, 214, 217
characteristics of, 193
early use of, 11, 131–32, 137–40, 143–45, 272
flour, 71–72
as food staple, 177, 193
hydration of, 207
Jewish, 4, 6, 27, 137, 140, 192–94
locally grown, 241–43, 247–48
made at home, 217–19
In Search of the Perfect Loaf: A Home Baker's Odyssey Page 29