made in Berlin, 194–95, 197–209, 214–16
milling of, 197, 205, 209, 214–15, 217, 220
mixed with wheat, 117, 193, 202, 205, 217, 220
nutritional value of, 197
pentosan in, 207–8, 271–72
and seed vault, 172
and sourdough, 66, 80–82, 85–86, 193, 205, 208, 217–18, 220
toppings on, 192, 194, 198, 201–2
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, 74, 76–77
Saibron, Dominique, 49
salt, 31, 267
in American bread, 46, 54, 93
in French bread, 46, 48
reduction in, 45–46, 48, 112–13, 231
San Francisco area, 81, 84, 91–94, 108–9, 215, 247–48
San Francisco Baking Institute, 91, 94
San Rafael, California, 246
Sardinia, 132
Scandinavia, 11, 133
Schmidt, Klaus, 145
Scotland, 132, 158
Scott, Alan, 93, 109
sesame seeds, 3, 6, 127, 202
Seaver, Barton, 90
seeds, 142, 159, 163
banks of, 170–72, 181, 227
breeding of, 158, 177–82
components of, 75, 272–73
diversity of, 130–31, 172–73, 183
and flour, 157, 186
grinding/milling of, 136
planting of, 130–31, 141–43, 145, 155, 183–86, 227–28, 243–44, 252
selection/propagation of, 148, 155–56, 173, 182
sharing of, 145, 228
See also specific types
Sekowa, 205, 267
shaping, 20, 44, 49, 52, 110, 119
of baguettes, 30, 40, 55, 60
by braiding, 202, 216
and cold dough, 120
done quickly, 94, 96
folding method of, 114–16, 129, 218, 238
by hand, 40–41, 157, 199–202, 237–38
mechanically, 31–32, 69
minimally, 237–38, 249–50
of rye loaves, 199–202
with wooden tool, 237–38
Shepard’s Grain flour, 246
Silverton, Nancy, 69–71, 73, 85, 91
slashes (grignes), 19, 31, 40, 48–49, 51–52, 92, 97, 111, 116, 233, 238, 250, 269
social stratification, 137–39
Somerset Grist Mill, 246
Sonoma, California, 91, 98–100
sourdough bread, 50, 67–68, 92–94, 96, 210–14, 253
sourdough starter, 33, 70, 251
feeding of, 9, 29, 68, 71, 81–86, 117–18, 205
and flavor, 45, 66, 79, 81–82, 112, 166, 260
history of, 73–74
myths about, 81–84
organisms in, 66–69, 71–72, 74, 79–84, 86, 210–14, 220, 270
purpose of, 16, 66, 272
types of yeast in, 68–69, 77
and whole grain bread, 38, 208–9, 249
“young,” 112
sourdough waffles, 155–56
South Africa, 80–81
South Carolina, 231–32, 246, 253
Speck, Maria, 247
spelt, 73, 133, 155, 186, 235
and artisan breads, 140–41, 149, 247, 258
early use of, 11, 140, 142–43, 272
and flavor, 147–48
and gluten sensitivity, 176
grinding/milling of, 134–35, 142, 269
protein in, 104, 272
storing of, 127
See also freekeh (smoked spelt)
spelt berries, 128, 135
starch gelatinization, 207–8
starters, 70–71, 85, 91, 112–13, 118, 127, 165, 198, 205, 212–14, 217, 267. See also levain (sourdough); sourdough starter
Steffelbauer, Karl, 200–7, 209, 216–18
Suas, Michel, 91, 94
subsistence, 133. See also sustenance
sugar, 35, 44, 72, 74–77, 79, 81, 86–87, 119, 127, 210
Sullivan, Steve, 91
Sullivan Street Bakery, 83
supermarkets
and French bread, 32–33, 35–36
and packaged flour, 164, 186, 247
and par-baked bread, 32, 36
and whole grain bread, 186
sustenance, 4, 6, 8, 11, 28–29, 131, 133, 137–40, 144, 215. See also food
Svalbard Global Seed Vault, 172
Swanson, Heidi, 247
Sweden, 115, 127, 132
Sweet Life in Paris, The (Lebovitz), 153
Syria, 141, 144, 268
Taiwan, 107
Tartine, 91, 108–16, 119, 215, 248
Tartine Bread (Robertson), 112, 114
taste. See flavor
temperature, 16
as important variable, 100
needed for fermentation, 87, 112
needed for rising, 16, 119
and professional ovens, 111
Terre Madre, 233–36
Thomet, Heinz, 240–52
time, as ingredient/tool, 19, 21–22, 32, 35, 68, 100, 102, 104
Torres, Azelia, 227
trade shows, 32, 34–35, 98–99, 106–7, 162
Turkey, 78, 141, 143–45, 173, 204, 235, 268
Turkey Red wheat, 157–61, 165–66, 168–69, 187–88, 244, 246–47
Tuscany, Italy, 74, 77
Twin Cities, 92
Ukraine, 147, 157, 160–61, 169, 183
Uncorking the Past (McGovern), 79
Vasseur, Christopher, 41
Vatinet, Lionel, 94
Vermont, 92, 129, 165, 245–46, 250–51, 291
Village Baker, The (Ortiz), 8, 55
Virginia, 53, 232, 244
Viron, Alexandre, 34–36, 38
Viron Mill, 33–36, 38, 50
Viron, Philippe, 33–35
Wageningen University and Research Center (Netherlands), 174
Washington City Paper, 51
Washington, D.C., 6–7, 50–53, 90, 92, 112–13, 117, 120, 168, 182–83, 239–40
Washington State, 92, 247
Washington State University, 169–70, 245
wasps, 74, 77, 79
Waters, Alice, 90–93, 117, 119–20, 248
Weber, Ed, 93–94, 98, 109
Weber, Kathleen, 93–95, 97–98, 109
Weichardt Bakery, 195, 197–209, 216, 218, 220
Weichardt, Heinz, 197–99, 204, 214–15
Weichardt, Mucke, 197–99, 204, 216
wheat
black-hulled, 155–57, 173
cleaning of, 242
dependence on, 8
and disease/climate change, 168–71, 173
domestication of, 141–48, 269
early history of, 130, 132, 137–39, 141–48, 157–59, 244, 252–53, 272
as essential element, 48
germination/growth of, 75
locally grown, 181, 240–52, 270
modern varieties of, 156–57,
168–76, 179, 182, 244, 251, 270
nutritional value of, 197
preservation of, 173
protein in, 8, 16, 35, 49, 103–4, 145–47, 157–58, 177, 213, 244, 272
and “resistant plants,” 169, 173
shortages of, 138
and starters, 66, 73, 80, 205
wheat (cont.)
“synthetic,” 172
wild varieties of, 141–43, 148, 173
See also specific types
wheat berries, 128
wheat bran, 73, 117, 127, 139, 163
wheat kernel, 272–73
WheatFields Bakery, 165
white flour, 16, 30, 127, 150, 164, 269, 273
additives to, 138, 214
in country loaves, 85, 100, 113, 117, 215
highly prized, 134, 137–39, 186
history of, 134–40
nutritional value of, 138–39, 214
organic, 247
and oxidation, 197
sifted/bolted, 163, 253
and sourdough, 82, 86
standardization of, 259
white w
heat, 149, 155–56, 186, 248, 273
Whole Foods Market, 12, 16, 37–38
whole grain, 215, 247, 259
in Berlin bakery, 195, 197
bread, 30, 38, 41, 54, 98, 132
early use of, 132–33, 136–39
flavor of, 134, 148, 260, 273
flour, 45, 187
freshly milled, 197–98, 205, 214
health benefits of, 134, 137–39, 197, 210–12, 214–15
locally grown, 218–19
popularity of, 186
and sourdough, 208–9
unmilled, 127–28
Whole Grain Baking (Reinhart), 208
whole wheat, 117, 165, 187, 194, 269
entire loaves of, 248–51
in flatbread, 129, 150
and flavor, 134, 138, 148, 158
flour, 16–17, 50, 100, 163–64
and French bread, 29, 138
health benefits of, 214–15
history of, 138–39
locally grown, 246, 248
price of, 247
and sourdough, 72, 85–86
storing of, 127
wild grasses, 141–43, 145–48, 158, 170–73, 176, 185, 252, 268
Willcox, George, 143
wine, 43, 45, 67, 73–74, 76–79, 225, 229, 233, 272
Wink, Debra, 79
Woodbury Kitchen, 247
Woodward, Bob, 90, 117, 120
World Cup of Baking, 50, 98–99
World War I, 30
World War II, 30, 192, 195–97, 216
Yanko, Nathan, 111, 113, 115
yeast, 43, 98, 210
and baguettes, 22, 35, 52, 54
baker’s, 29–30, 44, 49, 67–69, 74, 84, 119, 127, 213–14, 221
brewer’s, 11, 67
and fermentation, 44, 74, 84, 271
and lactic acid, 79–83
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, 74, 76–77, 272
and wasps, 74, 77, 79
wild, 66, 68, 71–72, 74, 76–77, 84, 86–87
Young, Denise, 21, 42–43, 238–39
Yurick, Sol, 193
Zakowski, Mike, 98–102, 104–7, 259
Ziebold, Eric, 51, 53
Zöpf bread, 202, 216
In Search of the Perfect Loaf: A Home Baker's Odyssey Page 30