The Taste of Conquest: The Rise and Fall of the Three Great Cities of Spice
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MICHAEL KRONDL is a chef, food writer, and author of Around the American Table: Treasured Recipes and Food Traditions from the American Cookery Collections of the New York Public Library and The Great Little Pumpkin Cookbook. He has published articles in Good Food, Family Circle, Pleasures of Cooking, and Chocolatier, and has contributed entries to The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America. He lives in New York City.
www.spicehistory.net
ALSO BY MICHAEL KRONDL
Around the American Table:
Treasured Recipes and Food Traditions from the American
Cookery Collections of the New York Public Library
The Great Little Pumpkin Cookbook
Advance Praise for The Taste of Conquest
“This is a fascinating, well-written examination of history’s spice wars…[Krondl’s] detailed description of the conditions of these once-great cities now, mere shadows of what they once were, is an eloquent reminder that the arc of justice is long and far-reaching.”
—Milwaukee Journal Sentinel
“Michael Krondl’s new book on the spice trade peeks behind the usual histories of Venice, Lisbon, and Amsterdam—and tells a tale that is at once witty, informative, scholarly, and as consistently spicy as its subject. In short, it’s delicious!”
—GARY ALLEN, food history editor at Leite’s Culinaria, and author of The Herbalist in the Kitchen
“With a dash of flair and a pinch of humor, Michael Krondl mixes up a batch of well-researched facts to tell the story of the intriguing world of spices and their presence on the worldwide table. This is a book that every amateur cook, serious chef, foodie, or food historian should read.”
—MARY ANN ESPOSITO, host/creator of the PBS cooking series Ciao Italia
“The Taste of Conquest is a savory story of the rise and fall of three spice-trading cities. It is filled with rich aromas and piquant tastes from the past that still resonate today. Michael Krondl serves up this aromatic tale with zest and verve. This book isn’t just for historians and spice lovers—it’s for all who love good writing and great stories.”
—ANDREW F. SMITH, editor of The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink
“In common with the finest food writers—Elizabeth David, Mark Kurlansky, Anthony Bourdain—Michael Krondl shows a respect for the details of the past that never slays his appetite for the realities of food now. His love of history, travel, and food is as compelling as it is infectious.”
—IAN KELLY, author of Cooking for Kings: The Life of Antonin Carême, the First Celebrity Chef
2008 Ballantine Books Trade Paperback Edition
Copyright © 2007 by Michael Krondl
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ballantine Books, an imprint of The Random House Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
BALLANTINE and colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
Originally published in hardcover in the United States by Ballantine Books, an imprint of The Random House Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., in 2007.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA
Krondl, Michael.
The taste of conquest: the rise and fall of the three great cities of spice / Michael Krondl.
p. cm.
eISBN: 978-0-345-50982-6
1. Spices—Europe. 2. Spice trade—Europe—History. 3. Cookery—Europe—History. 4. Food habits—Europe—History. I. Title
TX406.K85 2007
641.3'383094—dc22 2007026737
www.ballantinebooks.com
v1.0
FOOTNOTES
*1 Some have argued that the enormous quantities of beer consumed in northern Europe were a result of this very salty diet. One study, for example, showed that about a quarter of the cargo shipped from the German port of Lübeck to Stockholm in both 1368 and 1559 consisted of salt. Another 19 percent was in the form of hops, a critical beer ingredient.
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*2 By the 1350s, no salt could move on the Adriatic unless it was in a Venetian ship on its way to or from the city. As late as 1578, the Republic’s navy destroyed the saltworks at Trieste. At this point, Venetians were making an 80 percent profit on salt sold on the Italian mainland.
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*3 In Venice, almost uniquely in Europe, women retained legal control of their often considerable
dowries. Moreover, it was not unusual for women to invest fairly large sums in overseas trade in spices, silks, and other commodities.
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*4 If we can believe the doge, that would be something like ten billion dollars and four billion dollars, respectively, in today’s currency. What’s more, the 40 percent return on investment has been corroborated by modern historians. Still, even if the figures are a little inflated, they give a sense of the kind of money involved.
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*5 Archaeologists have found a relative abundance of glass bottles from the period in Lebanon, especially near the Venetian-dominated town of Tyre. Glassware was apparently a Jewish specialty at the time. The technology the Venetians learned here would later become the basis of Murano’s famous glass industry. By the fifteenth century, the Venetians were in a position to export glass back to the Near East. They confirmed their reputation for doing anything to make a buck by manufacturing mosque lamps, decorated with both Western floral designs and pious Koranic inscriptions, which they sold to the infidel.
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*6 According to some estimates, Moorish Palermo boasted a population of 350,000 in the year 1050 and Córdoba as many as 450,000. Other estimates would cut these numbers to a third. Still, Venice numbered maybe 45,000 at the time, and it was the biggest Christian city west of Constantinople.
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*7 To get some sense of how much money that was, a galley captain earned some 33 lire (a lire was worth a little more than a mark) a month, so figure just the cash part of the transaction was worth at least $8.5 million in today’s currency.
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*8 In 2004, Pope John Paul II arrived in Istanbul bearing the remains of Saint John Chrysostom and Saint Gregory of Nazianzus, part of the relics looted in 1204. The bones came with an apology for what theologians call “sins of action and omission” by Roman Catholics against Orthodox Christians, which, in this case, includes the sack of Constantinople. As yet, Venetians have not followed suit.