A Forest in the Clouds

Home > Nonfiction > A Forest in the Clouds > Page 40
A Forest in the Clouds Page 40

by John Fowler


  Bright, inquisitive orphan, Bonne Année, at our bivouac camp in Zaire, in preparation for her ill-fated release attempt. If it wasn’t out of reach, she thought it was hers.

  Dian at her desk in the bedroom of her large cabin, the same room in which she would one day be found murdered. Dian pecked away at writing much of Gorillas in the Mist here. The raised nest box, to which I returned baby Bonne Année each evening, is visible on stilts in the foreground.

  Stuart Perlmeter, Dian Fossey, me and Bonne Année, in pensive pursuit of Group 4, to release the baby back into the wild. We would fail that day, but the outcome would not be as dire as what was yet to come.

  Blackback Ziz, a subadult male, lounges in a tree on Mount Visoke while clouds drift through the forest. He would become the last silverback to lead Group 5 before it split into Pablo’s and Shinda’s Groups.

  Family photo of members of Group 5: Pablo, Pantsy with newborn baby Jozi, silverback Beethoven and motherless Shinda. Here they have ended a rest period and look to be moving on again to resume feeding. A stalk of wild celery, a favorite gorilla food item, is in the right foreground.

  Me taking notes on Beethoven’s feeding. He pulled down the vernonia tree, a relative of the sunflower, to get at the nutty-tasting fruits that form at the end of the long dry season. Beethoven, with second silverback Icarus, successfully defended a prime feeding area from other groups on Mount Visoke’s southwestern slopes.

  Beethoven feasts on vernonia bulbs, the seed pods that form after the flowers fade. He pulled the whole tree down for his convenience. Regrettably, I sampled these nutty, crunchy fruits, before realizing too late that each was riddled with tiny wriggling insect larvae.

  I have often been asked about how close we got to the gorillas. A better question might be, how close did they get to us? Cheeky Pablo dropped onto my lap whenever he felt like it, as if that’s what we researchers were there for.

  Puck, an adult female in Group 5 rests next to Peter Veit, while he casually writes his famously good notes, preferred by Dian. She liked his photos too.

  Pursed lips are an expression of tension for a gorilla, as seen here with little Bonne Année in her new home with the remnants of Group 4. The silverback Peanuts is keeping a wary eye on me. After spending her days with me for two months, the baby thought it was fine to come sit in my lap on our first reunion. Peanuts put a stop to that in a screaming rampage I wouldn’t forget.

  Half-sisters in Group 5, Poppy and Muraha, resting together affectionately. Gorilla’s faces are very expressive; one can easily interpret the subtle looks of mirth and contentment here.

  Little Cantsbee, son of Puck, was only two years old when I first saw him. Dian thought Puck was a male and exclaimed, “It can’t be!” when she gave birth to her firstborn. Cantsbee would one day take over his brother Pablo’s Group, which would grow into the largest group of mountain gorillas ever documented.

  Silverback Icarus, the secondary male of Group 5. He was believed to be the son of Beethoven, and was allowed females of his own within the group to which he sired his offspring.

  Maggie in her mother, Effie’s, arms. I noticed that babies first learned about solid foods while watching their mothers feed and sampling what food items a mother selected from the many choices in their surroundings.

  Tuck, a subadult female of Group 5, was captivated by her own reflection in my camera lens. She was also fascinated by the new babies in the group as she observed the parenting skills of the mature females. She would soon be having her own.

  The bright and ever-curious female, Tuck, looking almost human. The distinctive noseprint of each gorilla serves as a means of identification for research. Tuck was fascinated by cameras and made for a willing photographic model. I think she was studying us humans, too.

  Little Shinda of Group 5, became motherless after the silverback Icarus killed Marchessa in an unprecedented event. As silverbacks themselves, Shinda and Pablo would one day split Group 5 into two groups of their own, becoming among the most long-range scientifically-observed animals on the planet.

  Nude reclining. Group 5’s adult female, Puck in repose, languorous in the fleeting sunlight after a rain. Dian thought both Puck and Tuck were males, hence the names. Here, Puck is obviously feminine, and producing milk for her baby Canstbee.

  Silverback Icarus of Group 5 sauntering across the grassy clearing called the Tourist Spot halfway up the Porter Trail. He served peacefully as Beethoven’s secondary silverback within the group, assisting mightily to defend territory during interactions with other groups.

  Peter Veit, me, and Stuart Perlmeter in a bivouac camp on the cloud-covered rim of Mount Visoke. From there, we hiked down to the placid Lake Ngezi on the Rwanda-Zaire border, ever in search of Nunkie’s missing gorilla group. My parents gave me that sweater for Christmas, okay?

  Me and the intrepid gorilla tracker, Rwelekana, up in the clouds atop a misty Mount Visoke. His long association with Dian Fossey would ultimately lead to a tragic end.

  Karisoke gorilla trackers, Nameye, Baraqueza, and woodman Bernardi join porters to strip saplings and deftly assemble a gurney, on the spot, to transport Marchessa’s body out of the forest. The locals had intimate familiarity with forest resources and surprised us with their skills.

  Stranded at the Nairobi airport, I am rescued and swept up into the luxurious estate of Karl and Anna Merz in Karen, Kenya. Anna’s passion for wildlife conservation simmered just beneath this facade and she would one-day trade horses for black rhinos, giving all this up to help launch the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy.

  Kanyaragana, Dian Fossey’s long-time housekeeper, cook, and launderer, asked me to escort him to the top of Mount Visoke to see its hidden crater lake. He took it all in quietly for a long time. I was surprised that he had never been before, but neither had Dian.

  Here, I am perched on a giant hagenia tree on the southern slopes of Mount Visoke while visiting Peanuts’s Group 4. Days like these were idyllic in the long dry season of the Virunga Volcanoes. The sleepy town of Rumangabo, Zaire was visible below in the distance. It would become a hotbed of political strife and military logistics in troubled times to come.

  Young tracker in training, Toni, just returning from a trip with Dian’s poacher patrol, a dead duiker slung over his shoulders. Dian would let the men keep and eat the fresh meat that they salvaged from the poachers’ snares.

  Camp domesticity. Old hagenia trees fell with some regularity in and around camp. Mukera the woodman would chop these into suitable pieces to stock our cabins. He built a fire in each of our stoves each night, and in Dian’s large fireplace. He also had a bawdy sense of humor and could play the inanga, a traditional stringed instrument.

  Karisoke staffers: Mukera, the woodman who chopped wood and made our nightly fires, me, gorilla trackers, Toni and Nameye, Peter Veit, and Dian’s housekeeper, Kanyaragana who cooked, cleaned and did our laundry. After each twenty-one days in camp, they swapped out with an alternate crew.

  Teamwork in the midst of gorillas: Me, Rwelekana, Jean-Pierre von der Beck, Rosalind Aveling, Sam Koechlin, and Peter Veit. Making hard work the best of times. Important conservation benefactor, Sam Koechlin was a Swiss business magnate, and along with his wife, the renowned Olympic equestrienne Pat Koechlin-Smyth, joined us on a trek to see Group 5. Image courtesy of Rosalind Aveling.

  A birth near the end of my stay. Pantsy of Group 5, tends to her newborn we named Jozi. A baby will have pink skin for the first 20 days, before turning black and moving from hanging ventrally, to riding on the mother’s back.

  Pablo, proving that he’s big enough to knock me over. It’s just as well that I’ll be gone before he becomes a silverback. He would one day go on to form Pablo’s group, a large family group that would break all records in size at 65 members.

  Conrad Aveling, Peter Veit, and me on the summit of Mount Karisimbi, the tallest of the Virunga Volcanoes and one of Africa’s highest peaks. Mount Mikeno looms in the clouds behind us in Zaire.


  Beethoven, lead silverback of Group 5, looks out over the farmlands where forest once was.

  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

  Before this story was a book, it was an experience, and for that, I must first acknowledge Terry Maple. He has given countless opportunities to so many people. If you wanted, he could drop you into the middle of a zoo or the middle of Africa. It was up to you to find your way out, and you might have quite a story to tell. Thanks for the memories, Terry.

  After I began putting my memories into words, it was my good fortune to have the late author Rod Thorp take interest in my work and teach me how best to write prose worthy of a book. He was gone too soon, but did get “the boat out of the harbor,” as he promised. For that, I will always be grateful.

  I must also express due gratitude for my publisher, Claiborne Hancock, who said yes to my manuscript and made this book happen. Many thanks also to Jessica Case and the creative team at Pegasus Books, including Sabrina Plomitallo-González, Bowen Dunnon, and Katie McGuire. I give special thanks to Maria Fernandez for her patience and letting me have some fun in the layout process.

  Andrew Plumptre of Cambridge University’s Conservation Research Institute and Julian Kerbis Peterhans of Chicago’s Field Museum of Natural History helped provide taxonomical names of the lesser-known flora and fauna mentioned in this book, information which I could not find elsewhere. I am grateful to them for their expertise and taking the time to respond to my queries.

  I must also express my gratitude to Judy Chidester from the American Embassy in Kigali, Rwanda who so generously took us gorilla students in, providing a home away from home during our forays off the mountain. I don’t think she realized how much that meant to so many. I also thank her for helping me recall the names of those we knew along the way, and for her enduring friendship through the years.

  I have not forgotten my writer pals, Paul Abercrombie, Norman “Buddy” Chastain, and Bill Chastain, for their supportive camaraderie throughout our adventures and misadventures as aspiring authors in the jungles of the book biz. Thanks for making it interesting and hilarious.

  My wife Janet Fowler, daughter Isabel Fowler, and son Ben Fowler have also shared in my hopes and aspirations for writing this book, and I thank them for their loving support and enthusiasm along the way. At the end of the day, this book is for them.

  I also want to acknowledge my brothers—Paul Fowler, Steve Fowler, and Dennis Fowler—for the enriching childhood adventures that older brothers bring. I give special thanks to Steve for his helpful and technical advice on waterproof paper, sturdy boots, and pistols.

  My parents are gone, but not forgotten. I thank them for their supportive tolerance of my insatiable fascination with all things wild, as well as putting up with the likes of tarantulas, monkeys, cockatoos, and other living things I brought into the house, at least until they finally sent me off to where the wild things are.

  INDEX

  Page numbers listed correspond to the print edition of this book. You can use your device’s search function to locate particular terms in the text.

  A

  African Wildlife Leadership Foundation, 115–116, 128, 143, 246

  Akeley, Carl, 47, 103, 195, 359

  Alpine zone, 157–158, 160, 357–358

  American Museum of Natural History, 195

  Antelopes, 10, 50, 150–151, 259, 263. See also Duikers

  Anti-poaching goals, 79–85, 148–152, 258–260, 346, 374. See also Poacher patrol

  Arundinaria alpina, 44

  Asio abyssinicus, 342

  Audubon Zoo, xiii, 365–366, 369

  Augustus (gorilla), 237, 345, 364, 368

  Autopsy, 244, 299–300, 307–309, 375

  Aveling, Conrad, 329, 332–338, 358, 367, 371

  Aveling, Rosalind, 329, 333–338, 367, 371

  B

  Baboon research, 266, 314–315

  Bamboo, 44, 67, 250

  Baraqueza (tracker), 90–93, 162–165, 206–207, 220, 241, 260, 374–376

  Basili (housekeeper), 97, 147, 162–164, 278, 329

  Beethoven (gorilla), xx, 92–93, 100–101, 132, 175, 208–216, 249, 283, 299–303, 311, 351

  Beetsme (gorilla), 134, 278

  Benda Lema, François, 24, 27–28, 62, 68, 80, 224, 238, 246, 268

  Bernardi (tracker), 344

  Bird-watching, 246, 258, 318, 321–322, 324, 341–342

  Bivouac, 174, 182–183, 186–202, 230

  Black magic, 35–36, 256, 291, 310, 369

  Black rhinos, 322, 326–327

  Black-fronted duiker, 50, 259. See also Duikers

  Black-headed waxbills, 48

  Blue monkey, 52–53. See also Kima

  Bonne Année (baby gorilla). See also Charlie, Sophie, Josephine, N’gee, Nani

  adopted family of, 344–345

  caring for, 372

  death of, 367

  film of, 203–221, 245

  name changes for, 105, 148, 173, 227

  observations of, 344–345

  painting of, 242, 295

  pictures with, 225

  release of, 203–221, 227–228, 314, 367–368

  resting place of, 375

  sketch of, 242

  updates on, 364

  visiting, 230–234

  Borneo research camp, xi

  Brown-necked parrots, 258

  Brutus (gorilla), 98, 175

  Bushbucks, 50, 83, 87, 109, 259, 277, 346, 371–372

  C

  Campbell, Bob, 187

  Cantsbee (gorilla), 99–100, 132, 216, 249, 301–303

  Carduus nyassanus, 71

  Carex runsoroensis, 157

  Carr, Rosamund, 117, 255, 330–331, 359

  Catcher in the Rye, The, 319

  Cephalophus nigrifrons, 50

  Cercopithecus albogularis, 323

  Cercopithecus mitis, 52

  Charlie (baby gorilla). See also Bonne Année; Josephine

  caring for, 65, 75–76, 104–112, 130–148

  description of, 25–26

  meeting, 51–53

  name changes for, 105, 148, 173, 227

  Chidester, Judy

  at Karisoke, 51–53, 56–63, 65–68, 77, 362

  meeting, 18–19

  staying with, 18–27, 330, 349

  Chimpanzee research, xi, 270–271, 314

  Cindy (pet dog), 51, 179, 223–224, 262, 287–289, 295–297, 346, 368

  Cleo (gorilla), 368

  Cloud forest, 22, 42, 194, 196, 203–204, 263

  Coco (gorilla), 48, 76, 82, 153, 173

  Cologne Zoo, 153, 173

  Conrad, Joseph, 43, 265, 373

  Cornell University, xii, 12, 16, 64, 116, 129, 143, 148, 222–223

  Corvus albicollis, 47

  Cousteau, Jacques, 188

  Crane, Stephen, 236

  Cricetomys gambianus, 89

  Crocuta crocuta, 350

  D

  Damaliscus lunatus, 263

  Darwin, Charles, 10, 16

  De Ruiter, Jan, 235, 237

  Dendrohyrax arboreus, 166

  Dendrosenecio adnivalis, 157

  Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International, 370–371, 376

  Digit (gorilla), 52, 84, 104, 128, 149, 247, 375

  Digit Fund, 128, 143, 370. See also Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International

  Dineson, Isak, 319

  Disa stairsii, 258

  Dormice, 344

  Duikers, 50, 83, 150–153, 259, 346, 371–372

  E

  Eardley, Dorothy, 21, 30–31

  East Africa study program, 6–11

  Ecotourism, 68–69, 371. See also Tourism

  Effie (gorilla), 132, 210–215, 236–238, 249, 268, 360

  Elephant nettle, 71, 91

  Escher, Liza, 18, 20, 51–53, 56–63, 65–66, 77, 174

  Estrilda atricapilla, 48

  F

  Fauna and Flora Preservation Society, 115

  Fawcett, Katie, 375–376

  Finches, 321

&
nbsp; Fischer’s turaco, 318

  Flightless birds, 321–322

  Flossie (gorilla), 52, 179, 247, 375

  Forest buffaloes, 49, 127, 159, 165–170, 193–197, 241, 257, 263, 276–279, 350–357, 371–373

  Forest elephants, 247, 257–264, 310, 342, 353–357

  Fossey, Dian

  accomplishments of, xiii, 128, 143, 346, 364, 367–370, 375–376

  arrival in Africa, 103

  book by, 346, 364, 367–368

  career choices of, 103

  contact from, 363–365

  Digit Fund and, 128, 143, 370

  early years of, 102–103, 224, 288

  education of, 103, 178

  gravesite of, 374–375

  leaving Karisoke, 222–226, 295–297

  meeting, 22–25

  murder of, xi–xv, 369–370

  research by, xi–xx, 12–14, 93–113, 119–126, 131–132

  return of, 265–295

  teaching position for, 12, 16, 84, 143, 148, 222–223

  traveling with, 25–42

  working with, 43–222, 314, 366–367, 372

  Fowler, Dennis, 1

  Fowler, Paul, 1

  Fowler, Steve, 1, 15

 

‹ Prev