Arches and Canyonlands National Parks

by Mike Graf

  “Anything else?”

  “We didn’t go farther up the canyon after that.”

  “Could it be that there are Indians still around here?” Captain Powell mused.

  “Could be. But not by the looks of what we saw. The granary hasn’t been used—at least by people—in years.”

  Both men fell silent. They gazed downstream at the meandering river. Meanwhile the rest of the crew was taking down camp and packing the boats.

  “We’ll have to continue and see what lies ahead,” Powell concluded. “Since we’re the first known white men rafting this river, we have no idea what to expect.”

  James heard his family stirring inside the tent. He put down his pen and took a deep breath.

  A few minutes later all the Parkers were up. They ate breakfast and packed up their camp. James stuffed his story into his backpack.

  After loading the car the family drove south to the end of the road at Grand View Point. A ranger was stationed there, ready to give a talk. The Parkers joined the small audience, gazing at the remote, convoluted canyons.

  “Welcome, everyone,” the ranger began. “I’m Rachel. It’s pretty dry out here, huh? In fact, from where we are right now, we can’t see any water at all. But it’s water that shaped this canyon and the entire area. It just took a little time.”

  Rachel explained. “Two hundred million years ago, water was everywhere around here. This whole place was like a giant mudflat. We know that by the sea fossils found in the area and the ripples in the rock.” The ranger passed around a wavy piece of reddish stone.

  “Sediment,” Rachel went on, “was deposited here as mud from rivers.

  “But about one hundred million years ago, things dried up. The continents drifted apart, causing climate change to occur, and eventually this whole region became a massive Sahara-like desert with sand dunes that were three to five hundred feet high.

  Grand View Point

  “In fact,” Rachel continued, “we still have quite a bit of sand in this region. And when it’s windy—which it often is—the sand really whips around. Sometimes the fine grains of sand can blast your face and any exposed skin. We call it the Moab Facial—although I doubt it makes any of us more attractive.”

  The Parkers looked at each other and chuckled.

  “Anyway, the culminating event happened about fifteen million years ago. That’s when a massive uplift occurred on the Colorado Plateau. This was due to the Pacific Ocean Plate colliding with the North American Plate.

  “Because of the uplift the Green and Colorado Rivers started to flow faster and erode away sediment quickly. The water carved out about six thousand feet of rock, forming the canyons we see today.

  “And the rivers are still eroding away soil and rock, especially during monsoon season—July and August. By the way, the name Colorado River means ‘red’ river. It’s still full of mud today. Along with the rivers, winter frost and thaws also help to break apart the rocks.

  “So,” Rachel concluded, “although there’s no water visible from here now, there sure was then!”

  The group clapped for Rachel. After saying good-bye, the Parkers trekked out to Grand View Point.

  The one-mile trail eventually led to the edge of the cliff. Along the way, Dad recalled a chapter from a book written by Edward Abbey, a former ranger at Arches National Park and famous environmental author focusing on the Desert Southwest. “He wrote about this very spot,” Dad shared. “And about a man dying out here because of dehydration.”

  Mom glanced at the water bottle dangling from her pack.

  At the end of the path, the family gazed in awe at the immense, desolate canyons sprawled in all directions.

  “There’s the Needles way out there,” Dad gaped, pointing to the many pillars of standing rocks.

  “I can see where they got their name,” Morgan added.

  James looked down toward the right. “And the Green River. So you can see water, at least from here!”

  Morgan peeked over the immense cliff, then backed away. “A lot of good that water would do us way down there,” she remarked.

  Then Morgan noticed a dirt road far below. Soon a van appeared on the road, kicking up a small cloud of dust. The vehicle meandered along. “I wonder what they’re doing down there.” Morgan said.

  “Hmm,” Mom replied. “Perhaps they’re exploring a remote part of the park, just like we will be doing soon.”

  The Parkers made one more stop in the area. They drove back along the park road to a picnic area where the short trail to the White Rim overlook began. “For more views,” Mom mentioned along the way.

  The mostly flat trail eventually narrowed to a jutting peninsula extending out over the canyon. Finally, at a rocky promontory, the family could go no farther. “I guess this is the end,” Dad said while examining the long, steep drop-offs that surrounded them.

  Mom also peeked over the edge. “I think this view is at least as good if not better than Grand View.”

  Morgan saw a dirt road again. “Is that road on the map, James?”

  James unfolded his park map and studied it. “It must be the White Rim Road.”

  Then Morgan and James saw the vehicle from earlier. “There’s that van!” Morgan exclaimed. “And there are people nearby with bikes.”

  “It seems like they’re having a picnic,” Dad observed. “It might be one of the outfitters leading bike tours along the White Rim Road. The Moab area is so famous for that. It’s supposed to be the mountain bike capital of the world.”

  After staring out over the canyon for a few more minutes, the family backtracked a short distance. They sat down in the shade of a giant mushroom-shaped rock. “I think it’s time for our own picnic,” Mom announced.

  5

  Would You Buy That Car?

  The Parkers spent another night at Willow Flat Campground. They got up before dawn the next morning, packed quickly, and headed into Arches National Park before sunrise.

  The visitor center was still closed as they drove by. “It’s nice that we reserved our campsite here ahead of time,” Mom commented.

  The road past the entrance climbed abruptly into the park. “I feel like we’re on a ride at Disneyland or something,” Morgan announced as they chugged along, passing the fantasyland of rocks outside.

  At the top of the pass, the family glimpsed the La Sal Mountains to the east. They slowly drove past the towering fins of rock at the Park Avenue trailhead. “Later we’ll check that out,” Dad whispered in awe.

  Mom continued driving. Soon more massive rock formations, the Courthouse Towers and Three Gossips, came into view. Dad gazed at the rock monoliths. “Entrada sandstone,” he mused, “sure is colorful and unique.”

  Courthouse Towers

  “And everything is so photogenic,” Morgan added, trying to get a picture out the car window.

  The Parkers passed petrified sand dunes to the right of the road. Mom pressed on, driving slowly, as no other cars were out this early.

  Suddenly, just over a rise, a flagperson waved the family down, stopping them right on the seemingly empty highway.

  “Maybe there’s construction ahead,” Dad suggested.

  The flagperson casually walked over to the Parkers’ car, and Mom rolled down the window.

  Morgan noticed a crew of people with camera equipment on a flatbed truck up ahead. Farther along was a stylish, shiny, brand-new red sports car. A family of four was seated in the car gazing out at the scenery with beaming faces. “It doesn’t look like construction,” Morgan said.

  The flagperson approached the driver’s side of the car. She leaned in toward the Parkers. “Sorry for the delay,” she informed them. “It’ll be just a few minutes.”

  “What’s going on?” Mom inquired.

  The flagperson answered. “You love the scenery here, right? Well so does Hollywood. They’re filming a car commercial up there. But the permit issued by the park requires that they do it early in the morning before all the visitor
s start rolling in. There’s better light for filming at this time anyway. It won’t be long. They’re only allowed to hold up traffic for a few minutes.”

  MOVIES ARE MADE HERE!

  * * *

  The world’s largest concentration of natural arches and other spectacular rock formations in southeast Utah has been the backdrop for many movies including Thelma and Louise, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, City Slickers II, and Mission Impossible II, as well as dozens of commercials and music videos.

  The Parkers watched the action. The sports car took off while the kids in the back stuck their fists out the windows and shouted, “Whoo-hoo!”

  Meanwhile the film crew on the truck paralleled them, shooting video with the panorama of Arches’ red rocks in the background.

  Then Mom heard a siren. She glanced in her mirror and noticed flashing lights from a ranger patrol car quickly approaching. Is this part of the action? she wondered.

  The patrol car pulled up next to the Parkers and the ranger hurriedly explained something to the flagperson. She got on her radio and relayed the message to the film crew. She listened to their response and then the car and filming immediately stopped.

  The ranger patrol car zoomed past the scene with lights flashing.

  The flagperson approached the Parkers again. “You can go now too. They’re going to have to start all over.”

  As Mom inched past the film crew, James pondered, “I wonder where that ranger is going in such a hurry.”

  Mom accelerated to normal speed. Then Morgan leaned forward in the back seat. “Would you buy that car, Mom and Dad? It looks cool.”

  “It depends on the gas mileage and reliability,” Mom replied.

  “Looks just aren’t enough,” Dad added.

  “Ohhhh,” Morgan laughed. “Sometimes you guys are way too practical.”

  The family drove on, passing more spectacular sections of Arches’ rockbound scenery. As the road continued to climb, they noticed a giant boulder perched on a rock pedestal ahead. “That must be Balanced Rock!” James exclaimed.

  Mom pulled over into the parking lot next to it. They gazed from their car at the massive 3,500-ton boulder sitting on top of a rock pinnacle. “I wonder how long that will stay up there,” Dad mused.

  Balanced Rock

  Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad spent a few minutes wandering around Balanced Rock. As they circled the formation, Morgan took pictures from various angles. Then they piled back into the car and drove on.

  6

  What Goes Up, Must Come Down

  Mom took a side road toward the Windows area. As they approached the end of the short drive, Morgan noticed a huge hole in one of the reddish rocks. Then she saw another. “Look at those giant arches!” she called out excitedly.

  “Now we know why this area is called the Windows,” Mom said.

  Several park ranger vehicles were at the Windows parking area, including the one that had zoomed by the family at the roadblock. “This must be where the emergency is,” Dad stated.

  The Parkers began walking on the short loop trail, heading toward Turret Arch. In the distance to the east were the giant, circular arches called the North and South Windows.

  “Is there any other place in the world like this?” Mom said.

  Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad climbed a small hill and came upon a large, vertical hole in the rock. The trail led right toward the massive opening. “Let’s go!” Mom said with enthusiasm.

  The Parkers scrambled through Turret Arch, looking directly up at it as they passed underneath.

  Large boulders were scattered below the arch. “We definitely don’t want to stay in here too long,” Dad said, noticing the cracks in the rocks of the arch, “in case gravity decides to do its thing.”

  HOW MANY ARCHES ARE THERE?

  * * *

  There are over two thousand known natural arches in Arches National Park. There are also many more holes in rocks and other unusual as well as spectacular rock formations.

  Right on the other side of the opening, a family was gathered with several rangers. Ropes and other gear were strewn about.

  “We’re setting up a belay right now,” one ranger said into a hand radio. “Yes. He climbed up, but couldn’t get down. That’s right—just on the other side of Turret Arch—that nemesis spot again.”

  The Parkers paused to watch the proceedings. A teenage boy and a ranger were near the top of a steep, rocky chute. The ranger had looped a rope around the boy and was giving him instructions.

  “Just slide down to the next hold—it’s only a few feet below. Don’t worry. I’ve got you, and I’m not going to let you fall.”

  The boy followed the prompt. He cautiously lowered himself and then glanced down at his nervous family. “Sorry. It was a lot easier going up,” he called while placing a foot against a protruding rock.

  “It’s okay,” the boy’s mom replied. “We just want you to be back on the ground safely.”

  “What goes up must come down,” one of the rangers remarked. “You’re not the first rescue we’ve had here at infamous Turret Arch.”

  The ranger continued to guide the teenager slowly back to safety. Finally, as they got close to the bottom, the boy turned to him and said, “I think I can make it the rest of the way.”

  “Go ahead,” the ranger said, keeping him on the rope but letting out a little slack.

  A moment later the boy was back on level ground. He slipped out of the rope and explained, “I lost my confidence on those first few steps down.” Then he looked toward where he had been stuck near the top of the chute. “If I didn’t get spooked, I think I could have made it.”

  “Better that you came down in one piece,” the boy’s father said.

  Mom turned toward the rest of her family. “I think we should go,” she whispered.

  Morgan, James, and Dad took Mom’s hint and moved on.

  “I’m sorry for all the trouble” was the last thing the Parkers heard the boy sheepishly say.

  Meanwhile Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad slipped back through Turret Arch and onto the main trail. From that vantage point they could see the North and South Windows in the distance separated by a large bulge of rock. “That looks like someone’s nose and glasses,” Morgan remarked.

  “That’s why they call it the Spectacles,” Dad responded.

  Instead of hiking directly toward the Windows, the Parkers opted for the primitive trail around the back side. They hiked along, enjoying the solitude of their choice while watching people in the distance climbing into one of the windows.

  The Spectacles at sunrise

  “No one is in this area. We’ve got it all to ourselves,” James remarked.

  “Just the way I like it,” Dad added.

  The trail led the family back to their car. But first they detoured across the parking lot to the short Double Arch Trail.

  Soon the Parkers approached two massive, reddish-beige-colored arches spanning a section of rock walls. “They’re shaped like rainbows,” James noted.

  “Or huge elephant trunks,” Morgan added.

  Several people were already underneath the gigantic arches, so the Parkers also climbed up. Near the top they scrambled to a notch right below the spans with views in both directions. The family sat there enjoying the immense display of geology.

  Double Arch

  Mom quickly pulled out her sketch pad and began drawing the scenery. Morgan snapped several photos. Dad stared straight up and commented, “Geology is amazing.”

  After taking a few more photos, Morgan glanced about, noticing all the bizarre rock formations nearby and a slew of boulders strewn beneath Double Arch.

  A tiny trickle of rocks rolled down somewhere. Morgan tried to pick out the origin of the small cascade. She looked up at the massive, precariously positioned rock spans and again studied the large boulders below. Then Morgan noticed that Dad and James were also staring at the displaced rocks.

  “Are you thinking what I’m thinking?�
� Dad said to the twins.

  “Yes!” they both nodded. “What goes up must come down,” Morgan recalled.

  Mom threw her sketch pad into her pack. “Let’s go then.”

  And the Parkers trekked back to their car.

  7

  Is That You in the Mirror?

  Later that day the Parkers exited their car in a large, already-filled parking lot. They packed up water, lathered on sunscreen, and began a one-and-a-half-mile ascent to Utah’s most famous landmark. The warm September sunshine streamed down between puffy cumulus clouds.

  The family skirted the remains of Wolfe Ranch. Morgan snapped a few photos of the remnant, historic cabin.

  Wolfe Ranch cabin

  The wide path was filled with a multitude of hikers. “This sure is a popular spot,” James observed.

  “I think,” Dad remarked, “that when we get to the top we’ll understand why.”

  At first the trail rolled up and down. Along the way Dad wiped sweat from his brow. But then the sun vanished behind a cloud, and it suddenly felt a little cooler.

  Soon the dirt trail turned into solid rock. All the hikers were heading up, following a worn pathway. “I guess that’s the route,” Mom said, leading the way.

  The family climbed the steady, steep path. They passed a few dry water holes along the way.

  Meanwhile, clouds had built up in the sky, and shade occasionally cooled the line of sightseers.

  A few sprinkles began falling. Morgan extended her arms to catch as many of the drops as she could. “It’s raining!” she announced.

  James mimicked his sister with his arms. “And it’s cooler out. Yeah!”

  Suddenly larger drops began falling, briefly polka-dotting the slickrock surface before almost instantly evaporating.