Blue Sky Kingdom

by Bruce Kirkby

  Use it to be a better whatever-you-already-are.

  —His Holiness Tenzin Gyatso, the Fourteenth Dalai Lama

  ABOUT THE AUTHOR

  Bruce Kirkby is a wilderness writer and adventure photographer recognized for connecting wild places with contemporary issues. With journeys spanning more than eighty countries and thirty years, Kirkby’s accomplishments include the first modern crossing of Arabia’s Empty Quarter by camel, a descent of Ethiopia’s Blue Nile Gorge by raft, a sea kayak traverse of Borneo’s northern coast and a coast-to-coast Icelandic trek. A columnist for The Globe and Mail, author of two bestselling books and winner of multiple magazine awards, Kirkby has also written for The New York Times, Outside magazine, and Canadian Geographic. He makes his home in Kimberly, British Columbia.

  NOTES ON LANGUAGE AND SPELLING

  Zanskari is a dialect of Ladakhi, a language of Tibetic origins. While parallels exist between Ladakhi, modern Tibetan (speech) and classical Tibetan (Buddhist scripture), the three are not mutually intelligible, and are considered distinct languages.

  In this book, I have rendered Zanskari words phonetically and identified them using italics (khata, tsampa) except for familiar terms, such as lama or yak. While more accurate romanized representations of Zanskari words can be accomplished through Wylie transliteration—a standardized scheme for rendering Tibetan script, created in 1959 by American scholar Turrell V. Wylie—the shortcoming of the Wylie system is that it does not reflect pronunciation, which is essential for readers. For example, the men’s name Tenzing (phonetically rendered) would be unintelligible to most in its Wylie form, bsTan.’Dzin.

  One drawback of phonetic renderings is the significant number of spelling discrepancies that arise. For example, the common Zanskar greeting Jullay may also be seen as Ju-Le, Juley or Julley. In this text, I have attempted to employ the most common phonetic forms found in literature, or lacking that, I have rendered the words as they sounded to me. But be warned: travellers to the Himalaya may be familiar with wildly alternative spellings.

  Names can be particularly troublesome. The previously mentioned Tenzing can also be found phonetically rendered as Tenzin, Stenzin or Stenzing. Yet all refer to the same Tibetan name, bsTan.’Dzin.

  Geographic place names are equally confusing. Every village, river, mountain and pass mentioned in this text will have alternative phonetic renderings. The village of Karsha can also be found in both popular literature and academic papers as Kurscha and Karscha. There is no correct answer to the question: Pipiting or Pibiting? The ancient Shingo La pass was recently signposted by the Indian Government as Shinkola.

  Even the name Zanskar itself presents uncertainties, being variously recorded throughout history as Zansgar and Zaskar. John Crook, a University of Bristol professor of anthropology with deep roots in the region, argues that Zangskar is the most accurate rendition. But because the majority of modern maps and writers have adopted Zanskar, I do the same in this text.

  The name Zanskar itself has been widely translated as “land of bright copper,” but no entirely convincing etymology exists. Other theories include Zan (food) mKhar (palace), and bZang (good) dKar (white), in which “good” refers to the auspicious triangular shape of the valley and “white” describes the innate religious inclination of the local people.

  JULLAYS

  My deepest appreciation goes first and foremost to the people of Zanskar and their unflinching generosity, warmth and support. May your ancient ways light a path forward for us all.

  Of special note is Lama Tsering Wangyal, to whom this book is dedicated, and without whom none of this would have been possible. Jullay, jullay meme.

  The novice boys of Karsha Jhamling Monastery School will always hold a place in our family’s hearts, and we send much love to Stenzin Purbu of Pidmo, Stenzin RamJam of Rantasha, Skarma Eshay of Phay, Stenzin Jigmet of Zangla, Sonam Tsephal of Hanamor, Stenzin Nima of Abran, Stenzin Norgay of Sendo, Stenzin Lakdan of Tahan, Stenzin Joray of Zangla, Lobsang Changchup of Karsha, Sonam Chospel of Pishu, Tashi Tundup of Sang Pha Lay, Stenzin Thurchin of Phay, Stenzin Phuntsok of Pishu, Stenzin Nawang of Lungmur, Stenzin Tsewang of Tsazar, Jigmet Rinchen of Shamuling, Tsering Paljor of Tungri and Stenzin Norphal of Taman.

  Our deepest gratitude goes also to the monks of Karsha Gompa, who opened their doors to four Canadian strangers and welcomed us in their midst. I trust it is clear that the affectionate nicknames we bestowed upon them were born of our own linguistic limitations. Heartfelt jullays to all present during the summer of 2014, including Meme Khampo Purbu, Lama Tsering Wang Chuk, Lama Jimba Sonam, Lama Tsering Norbu, Lama Ishay Sundup, Lama Dorjey Tundup, Lama Lobsang Mortub, Lama Tham Chouy, Lama Yarsal Thakpa, Lama Tsering Sundup, Lama Kachen Tenzin Chosang, Lama Stenzin Ta’han, Lama Stenzin Jamyoung, Lama Lobsang Strab, Lama Sonam Wangchuk, Lama Tashi Gyaltsen, Lama Lobsang Khedup and Lama Thukstan Chosphel. Immense jullays also to the monastery cooks, Tashi Tsering and Chagar, as well as the delightful crew of Nepali workers who welcomed us in their midst.

  Although we spent just five days with Jamyang Lamo and Ringzin Dorjey of Tungri, in that short time it felt our families intertwined, and for their golden hearts, so many jullays. Deepest thanks also to Sonam Dawa, who guided us into Zanskar and became a close friend during our stay. Jullay also to his wonderful wife Tolma of Shegar.

  Last but not least, jullay to Lobsang Tsering, Lama Wangyal’s nephew, who launched our journey with his prophetic words: Most generously. Problems are none. Now a student in France, his guidance during the writing of this book expanded my understanding of Zanskari culture and Buddhism at large.

  I am often asked if traveling with the television crew was a pain in the butt, for many suspect I’m underplaying the challenges. But in truth, it wasn’t that bad. Of course tensions bubbled up from time to time, but by the time we arrived in Zanskar, the crew felt more like friends than co-workers, and for that, I owe a heartfelt thanks to all who shared in that wondrous journey. There are too many to name—more than eighty by my reckoning—but in the trenches the entire way, we send the biggest of hugs to Austin, Brock, Buzz, Dave, Shauna, Jeff, Jonathon, Caitlin, Gurmeet and Dustin.

  An extra-special thanks to Wes Dening, whose vision launched the project, and whose hard work, across continents and oceans, brought it to the finish line. Wes was a wonderful companion on the road, and now has become an even better friend. Cheers, mate.

  On this journey and many others, I have been lucky to receive the support of Mountain Equipment Co-op, for whom I am a proud Ambassador. Jullay, MEC, for everything you do to get more Canadians outside, more often.

  Also, special thanks to Speakers’ Spotlight, my speaking agency and close friends, whose decades-long faith in my work has provided me the freedom to tackle projects like this.

  The writing of a book can be a lonely journey—five years in this case—but along the way I’ve been blessed to receive the support and encouragement of many literary-minded friends, who offered valuable feedback on early drafts, including Kate Harris, Nadine Sander-Green, Jordan Zinovich, Jeff Pew, Dave Quinn, Kelly Comishin, Ace Kvale, Mary McIntyre, Helen Sander, Don Gillmor, Barbara Pulling, Pegg Davidson, Nima Dorjee, Pat Morrow and my wonderful mother, Joan Kirkby, who has proofed every book I’ve written—several times!

  At Simon Fraser University, Scott Steedman’s Master of Publishing editing class dissected an early version of my manuscript as a term project, the students offering deft and timely insights. Thank you.

  It was the unshakable confidence of my literary agents, John Pearce and Chris Casuccio of Westwood Creative Artists, that propelled me through valleys of doubt. And it was their unflagging efforts that landed the manuscript with the perfect pair of publishing partners. Jullay, jullay.

  Which brings me to this book. While my name stands alone on the cover, it takes a team to bring any manuscript to life, and I am forever endebted to all who toiled behind the scenes. First and foremost, the dynamic and warm-hearted duo who champi
oned this book from the moment it landed on their respective desks: Anna Comfort O’Keeffe, publisher at Douglas & McIntyre (Canada) and Jessica Case, deputy publisher at Pegasus (USA). On their teams, my deepest gratitude goes to Derek Thornton for his gorgeous cover design, Maria Fernandez for the graceful layout, Nicola Goshulak for the uncanny proofreading, Rebecca Pruitt MacKenney for shepherding the multinational production, and my indefatigable publicists, Annie Boyer, Corina Eberle and Andrea Córdova, for connecting the words to new readers. Finally, an especially fond hug to my editors—Anna, Jessica, Derek Fairbridge, and Emma Skagen—whose gentle touch and clear instincts carried the story much further than I ever could have alone.

  It was a particular delight to count Bodi among the proofreaders on this project. He reviewed the manuscript diligently during a sea kayak expedition, sitting by the fire each night and rooting out factual errors. Afterward he declared it “very good, but unlikely to ever be a New York Times bestseller.”

  An invaluable teammate on this literary journey, and so many journeys beyond: no words can suffice for Christine’s unending support and encouragement. For her, and our beautiful sons, I save the last and very biggest jullay of all.

  SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY

  On Zanskar and the Greater Himalaya

  Boyden, Mark. Travels in Zanskar: A Journey to a Closed Kingdom. Dublin: Liffey Press, 2014.

  Conover, Ted. The Routes of Man: How Roads Are Changing the World and the Way We Live Today. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2010.

  Crook, John, and Henry Osmaston, eds. Himalayan Buddhist Villages: Environment, Resources, Society and Religious Life in Zangskar, Ladakh. Delhi: Motilal Banarsdass, 1994.

  Crook, John, and James Low. The Yogins of Ladakh: A Pilgrimage Among the Hermits of the Buddhist Himalayas. Delhi: Motilal Banarsdass, 1997.

  Crowden, James. “The Road to Padum: Its Effect on Zangskar,” Recent Research on Ladakh 6, Proceedings of the Sixth International Colloquium on Ladakh. Henry Osmaston and Nawang Tsering, eds. Delhi: Motilal Banarsidass, 1997.

  Demenge, Jonathan. “The Political Ecology of Road Construction in Ladakh.” Doctoral thesis, University of Sussex, 2012.

  Diamond, Jared. The World Until Yesterday: What Can We Learn from Traditional Societies? New York: Penguin Books, 2012

  Gokhale, Sandhya. “Man Environment Interaction and Problems of Socio-Economic Development in Zanskar (Ladakh).” Doctoral thesis, Jawaharlal Nehru University, 1986.

  Gutschow, Kim. Being a Buddhist Nun: The Struggle for Enlightenment in the Himalayas. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 2004.

  Handa, O.C. Buddhist Western Himalaya, Part 1: A Politico-Religious History. New Delhi: M.L. Gidwani, 2001.

  Harvey, Andrew. A Journey in Ladakh: Encounters With Buddhism. New York: Houghton Mifflin Company, 1983.

  Hopkirk, Peter. The Great Game: On Secret Service in High Asia. London: John Murray Press, 2006.

  Hopkirk, Peter. Trespassers on the Roof of the World: The Race for Lhasa. London: John Murray Press, 2012.

  Matthiessen, Peter. The Snow Leopard. New York: Viking Press, 1978.

  Meredith, Robyn. The Elephant and the Dragon: The Rise of India and China and What It Means for All of Us. New York: W.W. Norton, 2007.

  Mingle, Jonathan. Fire and Ice: Soot, Solidarity, and Survival on the Roof of the World. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2015.

  Norberg-Hodge, Helena. Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh. New Delhi: Oxford University Press, 1991.

  Norman, Rebecca. Getting Started in Ladakhi: A Phrasebook for Learning Ladakhi. Leh: Melong, 2001.

  Peissel, Michel. Zanskar: The Hidden Kingdom. New York: E.P. Dutton, 1979.

  Rizvi, Janet. Ladakh: Crossroads of High Asia. New Delhi: Oxford University Press, 1983.

  On Buddhism and Meditation

  Harris, Dan. 10% Happier: How I Tamed the Voice in My Head, Reduced Stress Without Losing My Edge, and Found Self-Help That Actually Works. New York: Dey Street Books, 2014.

  Iyer, Pico. The Open Road: The Global Journey of the Fourteenth Dalai Lama. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2008.

  Revel, Jean-François, and Matthieu Ricard. The Monk and the Philosopher: A Father and Son Discuss the Meaning of Life. New York: Schocken, 1999.

  Ward, Tim. What the Buddha Never Taught. Toronto: Thomas Allen Publishers, 2010.

  Wilson Ross, Nancy. Buddhism: A Way of Life and Thought. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1980.

  On Autism

  Attwood, Tony. The Complete Guide to Asperger’s Syndrome. London: Jessica Kingsley Publishers, 2007.

  Robison, John Elder. Be Different: Adventures of a Free-Range Aspergian. Toronto: Doubleday Canada, 2011.

  Robison, John Elder. Look Me in the Eye: My Life with Asperger’s. New York: Crown, 2007.

  Silberman, Steve. Neurotribes: The Legacy of Autism and the Future of Neurodiversity. New York: Penguin Random House, 2015

  Suskind, Ron. Life, Animated: A Story of Sidekicks, Heroes, and Autism. New York: Kingswell, 2014.

  Venables, Stephen. Ollie: The True Story of a Brief and Courageous Life. London: Arrow Books, 2007.

  On Distraction

  Carr, Nicholas. The Shallows: What the Internet Is Doing to Our Brains. New York: W. W. Norton, 2010.

  Harris, Michael. The End of Absence: Reclaiming What We’ve Lost in a World of Constant Connection. Toronto: HarperCollins, 2014.

  Iyer, Pico. The Art of Stillness: Adventures in Going Nowhere. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2014.

  BLUE SKY KINGDOM

  Pegasus Books, Ltd.

  148 W. 37th Street, 13th Floor

  New York, NY 10018

  Copyright © 2020 by Bruce Kirkby

  All photography copyright © by Bruce Kirkby

  First Pegasus Books edition October 2020

  Interior design by Maria Fernandez

  All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher, except by reviewers who may quote brief excerpts in connection with a review in a newspaper, magazine, or electronic publication; nor may any part of this book be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other, without written permission from the publisher.

  Jacket design by Derek Thornton, Notch Design

  Imagery by Bruce Kirkby

  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.

  ISBN: 978-1-64313-568-7

  Ebook ISBN: 978-1-64313-569-4

  Distributed by Simon & Schuster

  www.pegasusbooks.com