The History of Surfing

by Warshaw, Matt

  ———. “Who Killed Surf City?” Surfer, October 1988.

  Gippetti, Jerry. “On Looking For Answers: A Return to Long Beach, New York.” Surfing, September 1972.

  Holmes, Paul. Bing Surfboards. Pintail, 2008.

  ———. “Cold Warriors: A Story of Surfing’s Wetsuit Pioneers.” Longboard, March 2004.

  ———. “In Trim: David Nuuhiwa.” Longboard, July 1996.

  Houston, James. A Native Son of the Golden West. Dial Press, 1971.

  Hulet, Scott. “In Trim: Hobie Alter.” Longboard, August 1997.

  Jarratt, Phil. “The Puzzle of Midget.” Surfer’s Journal, June 2007.

  Kampion, Drew. “John Severson Presents.” Surfer’s Journal, fall 2000.

  Kempton, Jim. “In Trim: Joyce Hoffman.” Longboard, December 1994.

  Knackey, Marie. “The Stomp: ‘Good Clean Fun’ for Surfies.” Sydney Morning Herald, September 8, 1963.

  Kohner, Fredrick. Gidget. Putnam, 1957.

  LaTourette, Dean. “Jack O’Neill’s Odyssey.” Surfer’s Journal, August 2007.

  Lewis, Richard. “Those Swinging Beach Movies.” Saturday Evening Post, July 31, 1965.

  Life, “Gidget Makes the Grade,” October 28, 1957.

  ———, “Riding the Crest of Surfing’s Wave,” September 9, 1966.

  Look, “West Coast Surfers: The Look, the Living, the Lingo,” June 30, 1964.

  Long Beach Press-Telegram, “You’re Going to Need $5 License to Drive a Surfboard at Laguna,” August 5, 1960.

  Los Angeles Times, “50,000 Expected to See Surfing Championships,” September 24, 1964.

  ———, “City Tightens Regulations on Surfboarding,” June 23, 1960.

  ———, “Holidays Contest to Bar ‘Surf Bums’,” May 21, 1961.

  ———, “Law Curbing Surfers Safeguards Bathers,” August 14, 1960.

  ———, “Police in Rough Seas Over Surfboard Thefts,” April 4, 1965.

  ———, “Skateboards Break Records, and Things,” June 20, 1965.

  ———, “Surfers vs. Vandals: Battle Lines Drawn,” July 3, 1964.

  ———, “Surf Safety Law Nears Adoption,” August 30, 1959.

  ———, “Vandals Cause Ban on Surfing,” March 3, 1963.

  Maher, Charles. “Woman of the Year: Wherever Surf’s Up, She’s Riding the Crest.” Los Angeles Times, January 5, 1966.

  Marcus, Ben. “Sticky Business: Surf Wax from Amoco to Zog’s.” Surfer’s Journal, winter 2003.

  ———. “Trunk It: An Evolution of Surf Trunks from 1900 to $2 Billion.” Text for exhibition film. Surfing Heritage Foundation, 2005.

  Marsh, Jesse Jean. “Cinderella’s Slipper Fitted on Tiny Girl Beachcomber.” Los Angeles Times, October 15, 1957.

  McNulty, Patrick. “Pursuing an Endless Summer.” Los Angeles Times, May 7, 1967.

  Morgan, Bev. “More Than My Share.” Surfer’s Journal, Febuary 2007.

  Newell, Skip. “The Surf Tax.” Surfer, September 1966.

  Newsweek, “Movies: Ten at the Top,” January 9, 1967.

  ———, “Surf’s Up: The Wet-Set Revolution,” August 15, 1967.

  New Yorker, “The Current Cinema: Surfers and Beasts,” July 9, 1966.

  Noll, Greg. Search for Surf. VHS. Greg Noll Films, 1992.

  Ottum, Bob. “Riding the Wave of the East Coast’s Surfing Boom.” Sports Illustrated, July 19, 1966.

  Perrott, Ron. “Australian World Contest.” Surfer, September 1964.

  Pezman, Steve. “The Foam Man.” Surfer’s Journal, June 2006.

  ———. “Hobie’s Story: Chapters from his Early Years.” Surfer’s Journal, August 2009.

  Playboy, “The Wet Set,” July 1967.

  Ponder, Ty, and Scott Bass. “Between the Lines: The True Story of Surfers and the Vietnam War.” DVD. Pure Frustration, 2008. Documentary.

  Prough, Jeff. “‘Surf’s Up!’ Thousands Hop Boards, Ride Waves.” Los Angeles Times, June 28, 1963.

  Rogin, Gilbert. “An Odd Sport, and an Unusual Champion.” Sports Illustrated, October 19, 1965.

  Severson, John. “What Will I Get?” Surfer, winter 1961.

  ———. Editorial. Surfer, summer 1961.

  Smith, Don. “Surfers Out to Improve Their Image.” Los Angeles Times, March 17, 1966.

  Stecyk, Craig. “Hale Nalu.” Surfer’s Journal, summer 1996.

  Surfer, “Interview with Phil Edwards,” July 1964.

  ———, “Peter Troy: Around the World on a Surfboard,” July 1968.

  ———, “The Men and Their Models,” May 1967.

  Surfing World, “Last Rows of Summer,” vol. 1, no. 3, 1964.

  Swarts, Hoppy. “Surfing Illustrated Editorial.” Surfing Illustrated, spring 1963.

  Sydney Morning Herald, “More Control of Surf Riding Sought,” July 27, 1963.

  ———, “Near Perfect Rides by Surf Champion,” May 18, 1964.

  ———, “Police Order 60 Rockers from Beach,” September 30, 1963.

  ———, “Rockers With Clubs Attack Dancers,” August 5, 1963.

  ———, “Sydney Councils Tighten Surf, Beach Controls,” October 7, 1963.

  Taylor, Don. Ride the Wild Surf. DVD. Columbia, 1964. Film.

  Time, “Fads: the Surfer’s Cross,” April 22, 1966.

  ———, “Surfing: Go East, Golden Boy,” June 25, 1965.

  ———, “Trauma: The Knee and the Board,” May 7, 1965.

  Torgeson, Dial. “Cult of the Surf: Beatniks Trouble the Waters.” Pasadena Independent Star-News, July 16, 1961.

  Trent, Buzzy. “Big Waves Are Masculine: Women Feminine.” Surf Guide, November 1963.

  Warshaw, Matt. “Articles of Faith: 35 Years of Surf Magazines.” Surfer’s Journal, spring 1996.

  ———. Photo: Stoner: The Rise, Fall, and Mysterious Disappearance of Surfing’s Greatest Photographer. Chronicle Books, 2006.

  Warshaw, Matt. “Surfers Get a Grip.” Los Angeles Times, August 2, 2003.

  Young, Nat. “Evo.” Surfing World Photo Annual 11, 1987.

  Chapter 5: Barefoot Revolution: 1966–1974

  Baker, Tim. “The Torquay Story.” Australia’s Surfing Life, September 1991.

  Barilotti, Steve. “Jazz Man: Tom Morey: The Man Who Gave Waves to the World.” Surfer, April, 1996.

  ———. “Surfing and Drugs.” Surfer, April 2002.

  Blum, Eric, and Lowell Blum. Fantastic Plastic Machine. Twentieth Century Fox, 1969. Film.

  Boyd, Duke. “The Dark Ages.” Petersen’s Surfing, April 1969.

  Brisick, Jamie, and Steve Pezman. “Fringe Dweller: Conversations with Wayne Lynch.” Surfer’s Journal, summer 1993.

  Doherty, Sean. MP: The Life of Michael Peterson. HarperSports, 2004.

  Duhigg, Charles. “Stoking the Masses. Once Upon a Time, Folks Rode Waves on Surfboards or Air Mattresses. Then Tom Morey Put an Iron to a Hunk of Foam.” Los Angeles Times, August 3, 2004.

  Falzon, Alby. Morning of the Earth. DVD, Alby Falzon, 1972.

  Farrelly, Midget. “Midget.” Surfing World 12, no. 5, 1969.

  French, Peter. “Jocko: I Miss You and Your Karma.” Surfing, July 1970.

  Gilovitch, Dave, ed. The Pipeline. Airborne Media, 2008.

  Graham, Dick. “Hawaii’s Champion: Fred Hemmings.” Surfing, May 1967.

  ———. “There’s a Surfboard Revolution Going On!” Petersen’s Surfing, April 1968.

  Greenough, George. The Innermost Limits of Pure Fun. DVD. George Greenough, 1970.

  Gross, Paul. “Greenough: the Ageless Artist.” Surfer’s Journal, spring 1994.

  Jarratt, Phil. “Accelerator: The Terry Fitzgerald Story.” Surfer’s Journal, late spring 2000.

  ———. Mr. Sunset: The Jeff Hakman Story. Gen X, 1997.

  Kampion, Drew. “1969: When the Smoke Cleared.” Surfer’s Journal. Spring 1993.

  ———. “Boy You Gotta Carry That Weight (A Long Time).” Surfer, March 1970.

  ———. “Cakewalk.” Sur
fer’s Journal, May 1992.

  ———. “The Death of All ‘Contests’.” Surfer, September 1970.

  ———. “Gerry Lopez: Standing in the Shadows.” Surfing, April 1974.

  ———. “The Life and Work of Richard Brewer.” Surfer’s Journal, spring 1999.

  ———. “Richard Brewer’s Impact on Modern Surfing.” Surfer’s Path, April 2003.

  ———. “Rubberman: Larry Bertlemann Has Been There and Done That.” Surfer’s Journal, winter 2001.

  ———. “The Super Short, Uptight, V-bottom, Tube Carving, Plastic Machines: And Other Assorted Short Subjects.” Surfer, September 1968.

  Levin, Dan. “Doo Wa Diddie Squiggly Wigglies: Get Lost!” Sports Illustrated, December 8, 1969.

  Lockwood, Craig. “California Close Out.” Petersen’s Surfing, November 1968.

  Lopez, Gerry. “Barry Kanaiaupuni: The Power of his Prime.” Surfer’s Journal, January 1992.

  Lynch, Wayne. “Gaudy Metal and Ego Trips.” Surfer, May 1969.

  McNulty, Patrick. “The Duke Does it Again.” Surfer, March 1968.

  ———. “Nat Young Mow ‘Em Down.” Surfer, December 1966.

  McTavish, Bob. “Kicking Over the Traces: Reanalyzing the Shortboard Evolution.” Surfer’s Journal, spring, 2003.

  McTavish, Bob, and Nat Young. “A New Era!” Surfing World 8, no. 1, 1966.

  Miller, Rusty. “Byron: Surfing Through the Sections.” Pacific Longboarder 5, no. 2, 2001.

  Moses, Sam. “Thunder from the Sea.” Sports Illustrated, March 8, 1982.

  Surfer, “The High Performers Answer Australia,” July 1967.

  Surfer’s Journal, “Moving Forward: a Greenough Scrapbook,” winter 1998.

  ———, “Recollections of Butch,” winter 1996.

  Surfing, “Viewpoint: An In-Depth Interview with Nat Young,” January 1967.

  Sydney Morning Herald, “Stowaway Surfers Deported,” December 21, 1963.

  Warshaw, Matt. “Goodbye Sunshine Superman.” Surfer’s Journal, winter 1994.

  ———. “Three Views of a Revolution.” Surfer’s Journal, fall 1995.

  Weisbecker, Allan. In Search of Captain Zero. Tarcher-Putnam, 2001.

  Willcox, Kirk. “Australia in 1970: And Then Came Tracks.” Best of Tracks, 1995.

  Witzig, John. “The Challenge from Down Under.” Surfer, July 1968.

  ———. “An End to an Era?” Surfing World 8, no. 1, 1966.

  ———. “We’re Tops Now.” Surfer, May 1967.

  Witzig, Paul. Evolution. DVD. Paul Witzig, 1969.

  Young, Nat. “How I Won It.” Surfer, December 1966.

  ———. Nat’s Nat and That’s That. Nymboida Press, 1998.

  Chapter 6: The Fortune Seekers: Early 1970s–1980

  Ambrose, Greg. “Lynne Boyer: Out of the Black and Back Into the Blue.” Pacific Longboarder 2, no. 4, 1998.

  Baker, Tim. “The Never-Ending Journey of Jim Banks.” Surfer’s Journal, summer 1996.

  Bartholomew, Wayne. “Bustin’ Down the Door.” Surfer, December 1977.

  Bartholomew, Wayne, with Tim Baker. Bustin’ Down the Door. Harper Sports, 1996.

  Brinkworth, Tony. “Beyond Bali.” Surfer, May 1978.

  Delaney, Bill. Free Ride. DVD. Bill Delaney Films, 1977.

  Deep, “Heart and Home,” spring 1999.

  Divine, Jeff. “Uluwatu: Evil Waters.” Surfer, January 1977.

  Farrelly, Midget. “My South Africa Happening.” Surfing World 12, no. 6, 1969.

  French, Peter. “Doing the Durban to East London Shuffle.” Surfing, February 1974.

  Gillogly, Brian. “Raising the Level.” Surfer, March 1978.

  Gosch, Jeremy. Bustin’ Down the Door. DVD. Fresh and Smoked, 2008. Documentary.

  Gray, Mark. “Japan Steps Out: Surf Business Booms.” Surfer, May 1983.

  ———. “Nami Nori—Surfing in Japan.” Surfer, March 1982.

  ———. “Typhoon Land Revisited.” Surfer, March 1984.

  Hemmings, Fred. “Professionalism Is White!” Surfer, September 1969.

  ———. The Soul of Surfing. Thunder’s Mouth Press, 1997.

  Hopewell, Deb. “Margo Would Go: The All-Time Great Big-Wave Dominatrix.” Wahine 3, no. 2, 1997.

  Hynd, Derek. “For 25 Years Now, Surfers Have Been Coming to J-Bay to Share in the Secret.” Surfer’s Journal, January 1992.

  Jarratt, Phil. “Jaw War on the North Shore.” Surfer, March 1977.

  ———. “The Last Soul Surfer.” Surfer, August 1979.

  ———. “Shaun at the Crossroads.” Surfer, December 1978.

  ———. The Wave Game. Soundtracts Publishing, 1977.

  Johnston, Richard. “The Endless Summer Turns Golden.” Sports Illustrated, December 6, 1976.

  Kampion, Drew. “All You Gotta Do Is Just Hang in There: Profile: Dan Merkel.” Surfing, February 1977.

  ———. “Dueling for Dollars.” Surfing, April 1975.

  ———. “The Flight of the Wounded Gull.” Surfing, September 1977.

  ———. “Ian Cairns.” Surfing, October 1979.

  ———. “PT: a Profile of Peter Townend.” Surfing, December 1977.

  ———. “Shooting for a Free Ride.” Surfing, February 1977.

  Kempton, Jim. “Margo.” Surfer, July 1981.

  Kidman, Andrew. “A Shaper’s Path: An Interview with Mark Richards.” Surfer’s Journal, April 2007.

  Knox, David. Mark Richards: A Surfing Legend. Angus and Robertson, 1992.

  Leimbach, Bill. Balinese Surfer. Lucky Country Productions, 1976. DVD.

  Lette, Kathy, and Gabrielle Carey. Puberty Blues. Sydney: Penguin Books Australia, 1979.

  Lopez, Gerry. “Ulu: Scenes from Paradise.” Surfing, December 1976.

  Lueras, Leonard, and Lorca Lueras. Surfing Indonesia. Hong Kong: Periplus Editions, 2002.

  McCoy, Jack. “Ian: We’re Number One.” Surfer, May 1976.

  McNulty, Patrick. “They’re Surfing for Big Contest $$$.” Surfer, September 1965.

  Morey, Tom. “The Great Nose Riding Contest.” Surfer’s Journal, summer 1994.

  Naughton, Kevin, and Craig Peterson. “11 Chapters of an African Surfari.” Surfer, May 1975.

  Rarick, Randy. “The Trip.” Surfing World 16, no. 1, 1972.

  Sanders, Marcus, and Kimball Taylor. Jeffreys Bay. Airborne Media, 2007.

  Scott, John. “Professionalism Is Black!” Surfer, November 1969

  Setterholm, Mary. “Equal Time.” Surfer, November 1974.

  Stebbins, Neil. “Uluwatu.” Surfer, December 1974.

  Surfer, “Jericho!” September 1980.

  ———, “Karma, Rhythm and Another Side,” May 1970.

  Surfing, “The Birth of the IPS,” April 1977.

  ———, “Twenty Who Rip: Shaun Tomson,” August 1984.

  Tomson, Michael. “Japan: Running on Empty.” Surfing, October 1979.

  ———. “The 1980s: Positively Mark Richards.” Surfing, September 1979.

  Tomson, Shaun, with Patrick Moser. Surfer’s Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life. Gibbs Smith, 2006.

  Warshaw, Matt. “Green on Blue: Kelly Slater’s Million Dollar Deal, and Other Thoughts on Surfing for Hire.” Surfer’s Journal, fall 1996.

  ———. “Interview: Fred Hemmings.” Surfer’s Journal, winter 1995.

  ———. “Odyssey: Profile: Wayne Bartholomew.” Surfer’s Journal, winter 1993.

  ———. “Stayin Alive: 1976 and the Birth of Professional Surfing.” Surfer’s Journal, spring 1995.

  Witzig, John. “Down Home with Mark Richards.” Surfing, February 1983

  ———. “Michael Peterson Gives It Heaps.” Surfer, September 1977.

  Yates, Larry. “Forgotten Island of Santosha.” Surfer, May 1974.

  Chapter 7: The Long and the Short Of It: 1981–1991

  Almond, Elliott. “Surfing: Cash Flow Is Up.” Los Angeles Times, July 5, 1978.

  Andraus, Reinaldo. “Brazil
: A Brazilian Surfer’s Guide to Brazil.” Surfer’s Journal, summer 1997.

  Baker, Tim. “Cloudbreak: Waves Worth Having at Least a Serious Argument Over.” Australia’s Surfing Life, January 1992.

  ———. “The Brazilians Are Coming.” Australia’s Surfing Life, November 1994.

  Barilotti, Steve. “Longboarding Today: Welcome to the Soul Revolution.” Surfer, April 1992.

  Benning, Jim. “The Prince of Tides: Sean Collins’ Dead-On Wave Forecast Revolutionized Surfing. Just Don’t Ask Him About El Nino.” Los Angeles Times Magazine, January 18, 1998.

  Biliter, Bill. “Youths Riot, Loot at Surf Event in Huntington Beach.” Los Angeles Times, September 1, 1986.

  Brady, Leonard. “Dinner at Charlie’s.” Surfer, July 1983.

  ———. “Whatever Happened to Big-Wave Riding?” Surfer, May 1983.

  Carroll, Corky. “Peff Eick/Dewey Weber Invitational Longboard Classic.” Surfer, June 1981.

  Carroll, Nick. “American Hero.” Surfing, August 1986.

  ———. “The Champ.” Surfing, September 1984.

  Carroll, Tom, with Kirk Willcox. Tom Carroll: The Wave Within. Ironbark, 1994.

  Carter, Chris. “Conversations: Ace Cool.” Surfing, February 1984.

  Cohen, Barney. “Hawaiian Daze.” American Photographer, July 1985.

  Coleman, Stuart. Eddie Would Go. St. Martin’s Griffin, 2001.

  Cool, Ace. “In Search of the Biggest Waves: Helicopter Surfing Outside Pipeline.” Surfer, May 1985.

  Coppola, Francis Ford. Apocalypse Now. DVD. Twentieth Century Fox, 1979.

  Dixon, Chris. “The Ultimate Web Surfer.” New York Times, June 13, 2002.

  Foo, Mark. “The Unridden Realm.” Surfer, September 1990.

  Galante, Mary Ann. “Fast-Growing Quiksilver Generates Style, Financial Waves, Fashion.” Los Angeles Times, October 14, 1989.

  ———. “Surfwear: On Mighty Sales Wave, Companies Run Risk of Wipeout.” Los Angeles Times, March 8, 1987.

  George, Matt. “Crossroads.” Surfer, November 1988.

  ———. “The Private World of Tom Curren.” Surfer, August 1985.

  George, Sam. “Conversations: Tom Pratte.” Surfing, August 1988.

  ———. “Under the Big Top: A Visit to the Surfing Industry Trade Show.” Surfing, June 1998.

  Gillogly, Brian. “Politics of Surfing.” Surfer, October 1984.