Vintage Cakes
Page 5
7/ Place one cake layer upside down on a plate or cake stand. Spread half the buttercream icing on the surface. Place the other cake layer on top, the right way up, and cover the top and sides of the cake with the remaining buttercream. Decorate with chocolate balls, buttons or chocolate sweets of your choice.
STORAGE: Chocolate cake is best on the day of making but it will be fine the next day if you want to make it in advance of an event or occasion.
carrot cake
Carrot cake is well-proportioned, sweetly spiced and utterly reliable, so it’s not surprising that it is many a cake-eater’s favourite cake. It has been riding a wave of popularity since the 1960s, and despite its ubiquity, it’s still a great treat and an ideal celebratory cake. It usually contains cinnamon, although this can be substituted or omitted, but what should never be replaced is the tangy cream-cheese filling to offset all that dense, moist sweetness.
FOR THE CAKES (makes 3 layers)
butter, for greasing
250g plain flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
spice: a good grating of nutmeg and a large pinch of mixed spice OR 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon OR 1 teaspoon of a mix of ground cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and mixed spice
100g walnuts, chopped (or pecans)
250g dark soft brown sugar
220ml sunflower oil (or any mild vegetable oil)
3 eggs, lightly beaten
2–3 large carrots (you will need about 250g grated carrot)
FOR THE FILLING & TOPPING
400g cream cheese
100g soft butter
200g icing sugar
YOU WILL NEED
three 20cm round cake tins, greased with butter and lined with baking parchment
makes 1 large, 3-layer cake (serves 12–16)
1/ Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas mark 4).
2/ Sift the flour, baking powder and spice into a bowl. Add the chopped walnuts and stir to mix.
3/ Put the sugar and oil in a large mixing bowl and mix well with a wooden spoon. Now add the beaten eggs and combine well with a wooden spoon or electric whisk until smooth.
4/ Grate the carrots (there is no point in doing this sooner as they start to brown very quickly). Add the carrots, flour and nuts to the mixture in the large bowl. With a large metal spoon or spatula, mix well until thoroughly combined.
5/ Divide the cake mix equally between the 3 cake tins (use electronic scales to be accurate) and level the surfaces with the back of the spoon or spatula. Bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes until browned and risen, and a metal skewer or sharp knife inserted into the centre of each cake comes out clean. If your oven shelf can accommodate only 2 tins at a time, bake 2 layers first then the final one separately.
6/ Transfer the cakes to a wire rack and leave to cool before turning out of the tins. Carrot cake is quite moist and crumbly and needs to be handled with care.
7/ When all the layers are completely cool, make the cream-cheese filling and assemble the cake. Put the cream cheese and butter in a mixing bowl. Sift in the icing sugar. Mix until smooth with a wooden spoon or flexible spatula. This will happen quite suddenly. Once smooth, do not overmix.
8/ Place a layer of cake upside down on a serving plate or stand. Spread with cream-cheese filling. Repeat with the second layer. Top with the third layer, the right way up, and cover with the filling.
STORAGE: Carrot cake sponge keeps very well for 3–4 days, if you want to make the layers in advance. (It also freezes well.) Wrap well in aluminium foil and store in an airtight tin in a cool place until you are ready to fill and cover the cake. Once filled and covered, the cake is best eaten within 2 days.
lavender cake
Lavender has been prized for its sweet smell since the Tudor era and, as a herb, it has an illustrious culinary history. These days it’s both vintage, eau-de-cologne-with-chintz, yet also contemporary fresh and vibrant. Now that good-quality lavender is available to bakers, it can be used to suffuse a sponge cake with its uniquely delicate, aromatic quality. Colouring the icing to match the theme makes the cake a pretty addition to the tea table.
FOR THE CAKE
250g soft butter, plus extra for greasing
250g caster sugar
4 eggs
juice of ½ an orange
1–2 teaspoons culinary dried lavender flower heads
250g self-raising flour
sprig of dried lavender or pale lavender sugar flowers, to decorate
FOR THE FILLING & TOPPING
100g soft butter
400g icing sugar
3–5 tablespoons orange juice OR milk (Note: If you are using lavender extract to flavour the buttercream, use milk instead of orange juice)
a few drops of culinary lavender extract
a small amount of purple food colouring paste – Sugarflair ‘Grape Violet’ gives a nice shade of lavender (optional)
YOU WILL NEED
two 21cm round loose-bottomed sandwich tins, greased and bases lined with baking parchment
makes 1 medium–large cake (serves 8–10)
1/ Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas mark 4).
2/ Put the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl. With a wooden spoon or an electric whisk, cream them together until they are pale and fluffy. Add the eggs one by one, beating well after each addition.
3/ Add the orange juice, lavender heads and self-raising flour. Fold in gently with a large metal spoon until well combined.
4/ Divide the mixture evenly between the 2 sandwich tins (use electronic scales for accuracy). Smooth the surfaces with the back of the spoon. Bake in the preheated oven for 23–25 minutes until golden brown and springy to the touch, and a metal skewer or sharp knife inserted into the centre of each cake comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool for a few minutes before turning out of the tins.
5/ When cool, make the filling and topping. Put the butter in a large mixing bowl, and sift in the icing sugar. Add 2 tablespoons of orange juice OR milk plus the lavender extract (if using), and mix well either with an electric whisk or a large knife until the mixture is smooth, fluffy and has changed to a very pale colour. Gradually add more liquid to give a soft, spreadable consistency.
6/ Add the colouring (if using) when you have the right consistency, but not before. When you are ready to colour, add a small amount of paste at a time (on the end of a cocktail stick) until you have the depth of colour you like.
7/ To assemble the cake: place a layer upside down on the serving plate so that you have a flat surface to ice. If necessary, carefully slice off any roundness on the top so that it sits flat on the plate. With a palette knife or round-ended knife, spread half the buttercream over the bottom layer, then add the top layer, the right way up. Without pressing down too much, spread the remainder of the topping over the surface of the cake. Decorate with a little sprig of fresh lavender or a few sugar flowers.
STORAGE: Lavender cake is best eaten on the day of making, but will keep for a day or two longer if stored in an airtight tin in a cool place.
Every baker needs a collection of tried-and-tested recipes for quick and easy, simple and homely cakes that can be whipped up at a moment’s notice. Keep your eggs and butter on standby, and you will always be ready to create reassuringly old-fashioned treats that fill your kitchen with warmth and good smells, and give pleasure to everyone. This chapter includes many classic everyday cakes that have been enjoyed by generations of hungry, school-tired children, and by friends popping in for elevenses for a restorative pot of tea and a chat. They are part of a tradition of generosity and thoughtfulness, a tradition that is worth sustaining. It is always useful having a couple of speedy recipes that can be made without fuss with storecupboard ingredients just before people arrive. These days there are so many excuses for a quick bake – from hosting book groups and crafty get-togethers, to cheering up cold winter afternoons and teaching children how to measure and mix – that we should embrace our baking heritage at every opportu
nity and cake whim.
victoria sandwich cake
The Victoria sandwich cake would probably top most people’s list of fondly remembered vintage cakes. It’s been around since Queen Victoria herself and is as delicious as it is simple. It’s light, buttery and very moreish, especially when filled with whipped cream and red jam, although many claim it needs only the jam to make it a classic Victoria sandwich.
FOR THE CAKE
180g soft butter, plus extra for greasing
180g caster sugar
3 eggs, lightly beaten
½ teaspoon good-quality vanilla extract (optional)
180g self-raising flour
1–2 tablespoons whole milk
FOR THE FILLING
about 4 tablespoons raspberry jam (or any jam you like)
about 250ml double or whipping cream icing sugar, for dusting
YOU WILL NEED
two 18cm round loose-bottomed cake tins, greased with butter and bases lined with baking parchment
makes 1 medium cake (serves 8)
1/ Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas mark 4).
2/ Put the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl. With a wooden spoon or an electric whisk cream them together until they are very pale and fluffy. Allow at least 2 minutes with an electric whisk for this, more if you are mixing by hand. Every so often, scrape down the sides with a flexible spatula to ensure everything is evenly mixed.
3/ Add the beaten eggs one by one and the vanilla extract (if using), mixing well after each addition, until the mixture is very pale and fluffy. Sift the flour into the bowl. Using a large metal spoon, very gently fold in the flour, adding a tablespoon of milk, or more if needed, to give a light, smooth consistency.
4/ Divide the mixture equally between the 2 prepared tins (use electronic scales for accuracy). Smooth the surfaces with the back of the spoon.
5/ Bake in the middle of the preheated oven for 20–25 minutes. The cakes are ready when they are firm to the touch, are pulling away from the sides and a metal skewer or sharp knife inserted into the centre of each cake comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool for a few minutes before turning out of the tins. Leave to cool completely before filling.
6/ Place a layer of sponge upside down on a plate or cake stand and cover with a generous layer of your chosen jam. Whip the cream until it forms soft peaks – overwhipping spoils the texture – and spread a layer over the jam. Place the other layer on top, the right way up, and dust with icing sugar by putting a very small amount in a sieve and gently shaking it above the cake.
STORAGE: The sponge layers can be made in advance, preferably on the day of eating. Once filled the cake should be enjoyed straightaway.
variation
For a delicious and impressive-looking summer cake, replace the jam with fresh strawberries (raspberries would work equally well). Fill the cake with a layer of whipped cream then a generous scattering of strawberries, and decorate the top of the cake with more whipped cream and strawberries.
scones
Scones are quick and easy to make, and although they are associated with dainty afternoon events and generous cream teas, you don’t have to have a special reason for making a batch. Any excuse will do to rustle up a tray of airy, lightly sweet scones to act as vehicles for a lavish amount of jam and cream. Put the kettle on, make a pot of tea, sit down and enjoy them at their best: fresh out of the oven.
FOR THE SCONES
500g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting
½ teaspoon salt
100g cold butter, cubed
100g caster sugar
80–100g sultanas or to taste (optional)
2 eggs
about 250ml milk
clotted cream, whipped cream, butter, jam or honey, to serve
YOU WILL NEED
2 baking sheets, lined with greaseproof paper or baking parchment
a 5cm round cutter
makes 20–22 scones
1/ Preheat the oven to 200°C (gas mark 6).
2/ Sift the flour and salt into a large mixing bowl. With your fingertips, rub the butter into the flour until it resembles very fine breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and sultanas (if using) and stir gently to mix.
3/ Put the eggs and 150ml of the milk in a small bowl or jug and mix well with a fork. Make a well in the centre of the dry mixture in the bowl and pour in the egg and milk mix. Working quickly with a fork or ordinary knife, bring the ingredients together to make a damp, soft, but not too sticky dough. Carefully add more milk in small quantities if necessary if the dough feels too dry and crumbly.
4/ With your hands, form the dough into a thick disc and place on a floured work surface. With a rolling pin or just using your hands, flatten or roll out quickly and gently to about 3cm thick.
5/ Using a 5cm round cutter, cut out as many rounds as possible, placing them in rows, a few inches apart, on the prepared baking sheets. Re-form the leftovers into a flat disc, roll out again and cut more rounds. Repeat until all the dough has been used. Brush the tops with milk to make a light glaze.
6/ Bake, in batches if necessary, in the preheated oven for 10–15 minutes until well risen and golden but not brown on top. Smaller scones will cook faster than large scones, so if yours are larger than 5cm, add on extra time. The same applies if you decide to make square scones (see tip opposite).
7/ Transfer to a wire rack and leave the scones to cool for 5 minutes. Serve very fresh with your chosen accompaniments.
STORAGE: Scones are at their very best when fresh, although they can be baked a morning or day in advance if necessary. Store in an airtight tin in a cool place.
variation
Scones can be plain or fruited, and fruit added or omitted according to taste. Sultanas are the classic scone fruit, but they can be replaced with dried sour cherries or chopped dried apricots as you prefer.
cook’s tips
Halve the recipe quantities if you are baking for just a few people.
If you don’t have a cutter to hand, make square scones. Form the dough into a square with your hands and cut into squares with a sharp knife.
welsh cakes
These small, fruity cakes conjure up images of old-fashioned flat heavy pans on open fires in stone cottages in Wales. Welsh cakes have a very cosy, comforting, fireside feel and are excellent for dark afternoons when it is wet and windy outside. You can be eating them very soon after thinking about them as they can be put together in a matter of minutes, and are best eaten straightaway, although they will keep until the next day if you want to send someone off to school or work with a bundle. Welsh miners used to carry them in their pockets when they went down the coal mines so they are also sometimes known as Welsh miners’ cakes.
FOR THE CAKES
225g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting
a pinch of salt
100g cold butter, cubed
75g caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
75g currants or whatever dried fruit is to hand, such as mixed dried fruit, raisins or sultanas
1 egg
2 tablespoons milk
YOU WILL NEED
a 6cm round cookie cutter and
a griddle or flat, heavy-based pan
makes 18 cakes
1/ Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Add the small cubes of cold butter and rub into the flour with your fingertips, until it looks like fine breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and dried fruit and stir to mix and distribute.
2/ With a fork, mix the egg with the milk in a separate small bowl. Add to the mixing bowl and with a round-ended knife or your hands, bring the ingredients together to make a soft, damp, but not sticky dough. If it is too dry and won’t come together, add a few more drops of milk, bearing in mind that this is a buttery dough which will become softer and stickier as you handle it with warm hands.
3/ Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. With a rolling pin, roll out to about 1cm thick. Cut out 6cm rounds using the cutter, re-rolling
the trimmings as necessary to make more rounds.
4/ Heat the griddle or pan over a medium heat. Grease very lightly if necessary; do this by putting a dab of butter on a piece of kitchen paper and wiping the surface of the griddle while hot, using the paper to pick up any residue butter. Welsh cakes should not be fried and many cooks don’t grease the griddle at all.
5/ Cook the cakes in batches for 3 minutes on each side, until they are puffed up and a deep golden brown on top. Take care not to burn by cooking them over too high a heat. Remove the cakes from the griddle, sprinkle with sugar and eat straightaway.
STORAGE: See cook's tip below (although they can be eaten the next day if stored in an airtight tin).
cook’s tip
Welsh cakes do not keep well, and are at their best when eaten as soon as they have been made.
muffins
Real sweet muffins made at home to vintage recipes and enjoyed when fresh and warm are one of life’s great fast foods. They are quick and easy to put together for breakfast or brunch, and are light years away from the oversized, sweet, spongy, long-lasting muffins sold in supermarkets. Traditional muffins are low in sugar, but because they contain a large proportion of baking powder, they are high in airiness and texture. Serve immediately with jam or honey, coffee or juice, or wrap in paper and take to work or school.
FOR THE MUFFINS
2 oranges (unwaxed or well washed)
6 teaspoons clear, runny honey
80g butter
300g plain flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
75g oatmeal
100g caster sugar
150ml milk
2 eggs, lightly beaten
YOU WILL NEED
a 12-hole muffin tin, greased with butter
makes 12–15 large muffins
upside-down orange & honey muffins
1/ Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas mark 4).
2/ Start by preparing the oranges. Finely grate the zest of 1 orange and set aside on a small plate until later. With a sharp knife, carefully peel each orange, removing all peel and pith until you have just the fruit showing. Cut the oranges into slices about 5mm thick. Remove any pips. An orange should give about 6–8 slices.