Vintage Cakes
Page 11
STORAGE: Orange teacakes keep well for a couple of days after making, if stored in an airtight tin in a cool but not cold place.
One of the most marvellous things about cake is that it can be baked to suit all occasions. Although an informal cuppa and a slice of simple cake round the kitchen table is one of life’s great everyday delights, sometimes it is good to get out the delicate china cups and plates, a hand-embroidered vintage tablecloth and an elegant cake stand, and create something a little more formal. Make the table as pretty as a picture with your favourite flowers, lacy doilies and vintage cake forks if you have them, and bake a centrepiece cake for afternoon tea. The sort of cake that requires a little more planning and preparation, something that will look as good as it tastes, and something that will make your guests feel special. There are plenty of recipes for glorious occasion cakes because afternoon tea has been, and thankfully still is, one of the most popular and civilised events in the cake-eating world.
lemon chiffon cake
Chiffon cake can be tricky to get right as it relies on air remaining trapped in the cooked egg-white mix, and is prone to sinking. It is imperative to follow the instructions not to grease the tin so that the cake sticks to it, and to invert the cake the minute it comes out of the oven. The best advice is to treat it as carefully as you would a fragile soufflé, and keep it out of any draughts.
FOR THE CAKE
6 eggs, separated, plus 2 egg whites
230g plain flour
10g baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
300g white caster sugar (in two 150g batches)
125ml light, mild vegetable oil (such as sunflower or light olive oil)
finely grated zest of 1 lemon (optional)
150ml water
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
FOR THE GLAZE
600g icing sugar
75g butter, melted
juice of 2–3 lemons
YOU WILL NEED
a 24cm two-piece Angel Food cake tin (also called a ‘tube tin’), OR a 24cm round deep cake tin, ungreased
makes 1 very large cake (serves 16–20)
1/ Preheat the oven to 160°C (gas mark 3).
2/ Put the 6 egg yolks into a small bowl, and the 8 egg whites into a bowl large enough for whisking. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a large mixing bowl. Add half the caster sugar and mix well to combine. Make a well in the centre and add the oil, egg yolks, lemon zest (if using) and water. Beat well with an electric mixer or wooden spoon for 1 minute until completely smooth.
3/ Whisk the egg whites until gentle peaks form. Gradually add the remaining caster sugar, the cream of tartar and the vanilla extract, whisking until the mixture is smooth, glossy and softly peaking. Spoon half the whisked egg whites into the sponge batter and fold in gently with a large metal spoon. Add the remaining egg whites and continue to fold in until combined. Pour the very light batter into the prepared tin and gently smooth the top with a spoon or spatula.
4/ Bake in the preheated oven for 50–55 minutes, by which time the cake should have risen enormously. It should be golden brown on top and is done when a metal skewer or sharp knife inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Make sure you have a wire rack ready and waiting when you take the cake out of the oven.
5/ When the cake is done, remove from the oven and immediately invert the tin onto a wire rack. Leave in a warm, draught-free place to cool completely, which can take 1–2 hours. Do not touch until completely cool, then turn the cake out of the tin. Because the tin was not greased, this may be a little difficult. Run a small palette knife round the edge of the cake to loosen and gently ease the cake out of the tin. Handle with care as the sponge is very light and fluffy.
6/ To make the glaze, sift the icing sugar into a mixing bowl and add the melted butter and the juice of 2 lemons. Mix well, gradually adding more lemon juice, if needed, until you have a smooth, lightly runny glaze. With a palette knife or spatula, pour and spread the glaze over the cake, allowing it to run down the sides. Any glaze that runs off the cake can be picked up and reused. The glaze sets after about 30 minutes.
STORAGE: Lemon chiffon cake can be made a day in advance as its spongy dampness ensures it keeps well. If securely wrapped in foil and stored in a tin or cake holder in a cool place, it will be fine for 2 days after making.
variation
Orange chiffon cake: use grated orange zest instead of lemon zest, and replace some or all of the water in the sponge mix with freshly squeezed orange juice. Use orange juice instead of lemon juice in the glaze.
battenberg cake
Battenberg cake was created in 1884 to mark the wedding of Queen Victoria’s granddaughter to Prince Louis of Battenberg, with the squares representing the four princes of Battenberg. It was hugely popular in the 1960s and 1970s when it was a supermarket favourite, and its image has suffered ever since. Yet a homemade Battenberg offers a wonderful combination of soft sponge, tangy apricot jam and almondy marzipan, and is a revelation to anyone tasting it for the first time.
FOR THE CAKE
175g soft butter, plus extra for greasing
175g caster sugar
3 eggs
a few drops of almond extract (optional)
150g self-raising flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
40g ground almonds
red or pink food colouring paste
200g apricot jam
icing sugar, for dusting
500g pack golden marzipan
YOU WILL NEED
one 20cm square straight-sided cake tin, greased with butter and lined with baking parchment. In order to make it easy to lift the cakes out of the tin, it’s best to line it with 2 long strips of baking parchment, 20cm wide, crossed over each other. Divide the tin into 2 using a strip of foil folded over 2–3 times, with a base to help it stand up. Make sure it fits snugly, then grease with butter
makes 1 medium–large cake (serves 8–10)
1/ Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas mark 4). Put the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl. With a wooden spoon or an electric whisk, cream them together until they are pale and fluffy. Add the eggs one by one, beating well after each addition. Add the almond extract (if using).
2/ Sift the flour and baking powder into a small bowl. Add the ground almonds and stir to mix. Add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture. With a large metal spoon or flexible spatula, gently fold in until all the ingredients are combined.
3/ Divide the mixture into 2 equal parts: measure it out into 2 bowls on electronic scales (they should each weigh about 320g). Place one half on one side of the prepared tin. Colour the second half with red or pink food colouring until you have the shade of pink you like, and put this in the other half of the tin.
4/ Bake the cake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes or until a metal skewer or sharp knife inserted into the centre comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool before carefully lifting or turning the 2 rectangles of sponge out of the tin. When completely cool, cut the rectangles in half lengthways and trim all four sections so that they are the same length and have straight sides and edges.
5/ Warm the apricot jam very gently in a small saucepan. Pass the jam through a sieve to remove any pieces of fruit if necessary.
6/ Lightly dust a board or worksurface and rolling pin with icing sugar. With the rolling pin, roll out the block of marzipan so that it is just over 20cm wide (or the length of your cake), then roll it out lengthways until it will fit generously around the cake (about 45cm long and 5mm thick).
7/ Brush 2 adjacent sides of each section of pink and yellow sponge and begin to assemble them in a chequerboard section in the centre of the rolled out marzipan. Brush with more jam as you go to make sure it is all held together. Beginning with what will be the base of the assembled cake, brush each side with jam and carefully wrap the marzipan round the cake, pressing it gently but firmly so that it sticks. Brush th
e last remaining side and overlap the marzipan on the base to make a seam. With a sharp knife, trim the marzipan and neaten the ends of the cake to tidy up the presentation. Cut into slices to serve.
STORAGE: Battenberg cake keeps well for a couple of days if stored in an airtight tin in a cool place.
sachertorte
Rarely does a cake have such an illustrious history, and still remain in the realms of home-baking possibility. Although some claim Sachertorte is the speciality of the Demel café in Vienna, others maintain its spiritual home is the Hotel Sacher. Genuine Sachertorte has 'Sachertorte' written with a flourish on the icing, and you can do this if you like. Alternatively, leave plain and enjoy Austrian-café style with a cloud of whipped cream.
FOR THE CAKE
200g dark chocolate, broken into small pieces
6 eggs
150g soft butter, plus extra for greasing
125g icing sugar
120g caster sugar
150g plain flour, sifted
FOR THE FILLING & TOPPING
6–8 tablespoons apricot jam
200g dark chocolate, broken into small pieces
200ml double cream
1 teaspoon glycerine
1 tablespoon icing sugar, sifted
YOU WILL NEED
a 23cm round springform cake tin, greased with butter and base lined with baking parchment
makes 1 very large cake (serves 14–16)
1/ Preheat the oven to 160°C (gas mark 3). Melt the chocolate in a bowl sitting over a pan of just-boiled water (it will remain hot enough to melt the chocolate as long as you are patient and stir just occasionally). Remove and set aside to cool.
2/ Separate the eggs. Put the yolks in a small bowl and put the whites in a large mixing bowl. Put the butter into a second large mixing bowl and sift in the icing sugar. With a wooden spoon or electric mixer, cream until pale and smooth. Add the egg yolks one by one, beating well after each addition. Add the melted chocolate and gently fold in to mix until thoroughly combined.
3/ Whisk the egg whites until they are softly peaking. Gradually add the caster sugar a little at a time, until all the sugar has been incorporated. Now whisk well until the mix is glossy and holds its shape.
4/ With a large metal spoon or flexible spatula, spoon half the chocolate mix into the egg mix and begin to fold in gently, adding the second half when the ingredients begin to combine. Now add the flour in batches, continuing to fold until the mix is combined and has no white flecks. It should be smooth and moussey.
5/ Spoon into the prepared tin. Bake in the preheated oven for 40–45 minutes until the cake is well risen and pulling away from the sides, and a metal skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool for 10–15 minutes before releasing from the tin. Leave to cool completely before icing.
6/ When the cake is cool, place it on a wire rack standing on a large piece of foil or greaseproof paper. Gently warm the apricot jam in a saucepan and strain it through a sieve. Slice the cake in two horizontally and fill with a layer of apricot jam. Replace the top, and brush the surface with apricot jam.
7/ To make the chocolate covering, put the chocolate in a bowl with the cream. Place the bowl over a saucepan of just-boiled water. Stir occasionally, but do not overmix as it could split. As soon as it is fully melted, remove from the heat. Add the glycerine and stir to mix, then add the icing sugar and mix again. Pour the covering over the cake, allowing it to drip down the sides. Use a palette knife to spread and neaten the icing over the top and sides. Gather up the drips and reuse if needed.
STORAGE: Sachertorte keeps well for 2 days stored in an airtight tin in a cool place.
tres leches cake
Tres leches or 'three milk' cake is a speciality of Mexico and other South American countries, and since the 1940s it has been popular in North America and beyond. It is a sweetened milk lover's idea of heaven as it contains three milks: condensed, evaporated and fresh cream. These are mixed together and poured over the sponge, which is light and airy, and able to soak up a good proportion of the liquid while the rest forms a sweet, sticky pool of sauce. It’s a large, very pale, very milky, very good cake that can be served chilled as a pudding with even more cream on top. Make this cake the day before it is needed.
FOR THE CAKE
butter, for greasing
150g plain flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
5 eggs, separated
200g caster sugar
80ml milk (about 5 tablespoons)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
FOR THE SAUCE
230ml condensed milk
170ml evaporated milk
about 100ml double cream
TO FINISH
200ml double cream
maraschino or glacé cherries, to decorate (optional)
YOU WILL NEED
a 23cm round springform cake tin, lightly greased with butter and base lined with baking parchment OR a roasting tin or Pyrex dish about 30 x 23cm, lightly greased with butter
Makes 1 large cake (serves 12–15 as a pudding)
1/ Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas mark 4).
2/ Sift the flour and baking powder together into a small bowl. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until very pale and creamy and doubled in size. Add the milk and vanilla extract, then add the flour mixture and gently fold in with a large spoon or flexible spatula until combined.
3/ In another large bowl, whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Spoon into the cake mixture and fold in very gently and thoroughly. Spoon the mixture into the prepared baking tin or dish and level the surface with the spoon.
4/ Bake in the preheated oven for 40 minutes until well risen and golden brown on top, and a metal skewer or sharp knife inserted into the centre comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool (it will deflate a little but this is normal).
5/ When the cake is cold, run a knife round the edge of the tin or dish and turn the cake out. Either invert it onto a deep serving dish that can hold the milk sauce when poured over or, if you don’t have a suitable dish, invert it and return to the baking tin or dish. Pierce the surface of the cake all over with a skewer or fork.
6/ In a jug, mix the condensed milk, evaporated milk and enough double cream to bring the total liquid to 500ml. Pour over the sponge and leave to soak overnight in a cool place or in the fridge.
7/ Before serving, bring the cake to room temperature. Whip 200ml double cream so that it holds a soft peak, and spread over the top of the cake (if using). Cut into squares and top each portion with a cherry.
STORAGE: The cake is at its best the day after it has been made and allowed to soak overnight, but it will keep in the fridge for a further day or two.
chocolate roulade
Chocolate roulade is the chocolate version of the Swiss roll (see page 140), but served as a dessert because of its rich, moussey texture and cream filling. It may look challenging to make, but if you follow the instructions and stay relaxed about any cracks that appear when you roll – and they can appear quite easily no matter how carefully you try to avoid them – you will be rewarded with a deliciously indulgent-looking and indulgent-tasting cake.
FOR THE CAKE
butter, for greasing
180g good-quality chocolate (70% cocoa solids)
6 eggs, separated
180g caster sugar
2 tablespoons good-quality cocoa powder
TO FINISH
250–300ml double cream icing sugar, for dusting
YOU WILL NEED
a Swiss roll tin, about 33 x 23cm, greased with butter and lined with baking parchment so that the parchment stands a couple of centimetres taller than the tin. Lightly grease the baking parchment
makes 1 generous roulade (serves 6–8)
1/ Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas mark 4). Break the chocolate into pieces and put in a bowl set over a saucepan of just-boiled water. Leave to melt,
stirring very occasionally. When melted, remove the bowl from the pan and leave to cool.
2/ Put the egg whites into a mixing bowl. With a hand whisk or electric whisk, whisk until softly peaking. Put the egg yolks and sugar into a second mixing bowl. With the same whisk, whisk until thick and creamy (this will take a couple of minutes). Add the melted chocolate, and with a large metal spoon or flexible spatula, gently fold in and mix until thoroughly combined.
3/ With a large metal spoon, gradually add the egg whites to the mix, a spoonful at a time, folding in carefully after each addition (the aim is to retain as much air in the mix as possible). Add the cocoa powder by sifting it into the mixture and folding in. When the mix is combined and there are no flecks of white or cocoa powder, pour it into the prepared tin and gently shake and tap the tin until the surface is level and the corners are filled.
4/ Bake in the preheated oven for 20–25 minutes until risen and the top is firm and dry. Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool in the tin. The cake will sink and shrink a little, but this is normal. If you are making the sponge in advance, cover with a damp tea towel and leave in a cool place. It can be left overnight if necessary, but you will need to re-dampen the cloth.
5/ When it is completely cool and just before you serve it, fill and roll up the roulade. Whip the cream until it is billowing. Put a piece of baking parchment larger than the cake tin on the work surface and dust lightly with icing sugar. Invert the tin and turn the roulade out onto the paper, tugging gently at the tin’s paper to bring the roulade out in one piece, then gently pull off the paper. With a sharp knife, make a shallow cut along one of the shorter ends, a couple of centimetres from the edge (this will help with the rolling up).
6/ Spread the cream over the surface of the sponge. Roll up the roulade, starting at the end with a cut and using the paper beneath to help you pull up the sponge. Handle the roulade evenly and firmly, but not too firmly or you will press out the cream. Sometimes a homemade roulade will crack as you roll, other times it just develops surface cracks. This is to be expected, and not an indication of failure.