Aftertaste
Page 40
I’ve been gone from Grappa for almost a year, and most of that time I’ve spent thinking about what I missed, idealizing it because it had been ours—mine and Jake’s. But it had been replete with the sorts of compromises, big and small, that make any joint venture successful. Only recently have I begun to think about what I would have changed, if I’d had the chance. Spuntino (“snack” in Italian) will be my chance to do something different. Enid’s given me complete creative control, so why not have some fun? How often do we get a second chance?
Ben has promised to help with the repairs—a good thing because, judging from the puddles of water pooling under the air-conditioning units, there’s considerable work to be done. Since Richard moved out a couple of weeks ago, Ben’s been around for two dinners, three lunches, and one breakfast. Neither one of us is thinking long term, at least not yet, but our relationship is developing like a slow and steady braise. A braise might not look like much to start with—throw a bunch of ingredients into a pot, add a little broth and wine, and simmer over low heat for several hours—but the technique tends to produce the most complex and full-bodied flavors in food. One of the most wonderful things about a really good braise is that the end result is often so much more than the sum of its parts.
Chloe has pushed one of the chairs along the floor until it has come to rest against the back wall, and the exertion has dampened her curls and cast a furrow in her brow. Now that her work here is finished, she’s impatient to leave. She turns to face me, raises her arms, and calls, “Mama!” I cross the room and pick her up, holding her close to me despite the heat, nuzzling her hair, still flecked with flour dust. I know she will probably resent Spuntino for taking me away from her. I hadn’t intended to do this until Chloe was older, in school. And Ben—I hadn’t really planned on that either. But I think that Chloe will learn to share me with Spuntino and will forgive me for doing what it seems I am meant to do.
It won’t be easy. There’s a kitchen to plan, menus to write, a thousand details to attend to, but it’s still my cook’s morning. I take a seat at one of the empty tables, pull Chloe onto my lap, and breathe in the smells that make up my tiny slice of the planet, the alley, the oven next door at Bruno’s, and the apple pie sweetness of my lovely daughter as she lays her head against my chest and relaxes into my arms.
Dear Reader,
Here you will find the recipes for a five-course Italian-inspired meal—suitable for a potluck book club dinner or any other occasion. (Don’t forget the wine!)
I’ve included recipes from Grappa’s fictional kitchen, as well as some of my own favorites. Nota bene: I am not Mira. I’m an untrained, albeit incredibly enthusiastic, home cook. That said, I’d like to think I’ve learned a few things from my research and testing for this novel—Mira has been a fine teacher. Please don’t hesitate to improvise and make the recipes your own, because cooking, at its best, is both an expression of self and a gift of love.
Buon appetito,
Meredith
P.S. Please visit me at www.meredithmileti.com. I’d love to hear about your culinary adventures!
ANTIPASTI: Seasonal Tastes
One of the hallmarks of Italian cuisine is great ingredients, minimally treated so as to showcase the natural bounty of the season. Ideally, an antipasti should open the palate for the rest of the meal. These combinations each target several of the major tastes—sweet, bitter, salty, sour, and/or umami.
Summer. A small slice of perfectly ripe peach, a shard of sharp Pecorino Romano, and a fresh basil leaf. Stack all the ingredients and wrap with a wafer-thin slice of prosciutto.
Fall. Half of a ripe fig, a shard of sharp cheese (smoked provolone, extra-aged Piave, or Beemster), and a sprig of peppery watercress. Roll all in a thinly sliced piece of smoked duck breast.
Winter. A Majool date, pitted and stuffed with a mixture of cranberry or mango chutney and softened mascarpone cheese. Add a smidgen of good Dijon mustard and top with a toasted walnut.
Spring. Purée some cooked fava beans with lemon juice, garlic, and a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Garnish with a little fresh mint. Serve with spring radishes and endive stalks for dipping.
PRIMI: White Pizza with Tallegio, Prosciutto, Apricots, and Arugula Salad
Pasta often follows the antipasti course, but I think this pizza is a knockout. We make this all the time on our gas grill, but the stove works just as well.
Buy pizza dough from your favorite pizzeria or local market or, if you have time, make your own. My favorite recipe can be found in Jim Lahey’s wonderful book, My Bread.
Ingredients
Pizza dough for two
10-inch pizzas
¾ pound softened Tallegio
cheese
Shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano
cheese
½ pound prosciutto
2 ripe apricots, pitted and sliced
(or substitute a few slivered,
dried apricots)
2 large handfuls fresh arugula,
washed and dried
Olive oil, kosher salt, and black
pepper
Lemon juice
Heat a large cast-iron pizza pan for about 10 minutes on high.
Divide the risen dough in half and roll out into two medium disks, placing each onto the pizza pan. Cook a couple of minutes until it just starts to brown. Flip and cook on the opposite side for another couple of minutes. Remove crust from pan and set on wooden board. Spread softened Tallegio cheese onto crust, top with a few shards of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and slide onto heated pizza pan, being careful not to burn yourself!
If using grill, turn heat high on one side and medium low on the other. Cook on low-heat side with grill cover closed. If using oven, place under broiler. Cook until the cheese is bubbling and crust is as crisp as you like it.
Top pizza with prosciutto and apricots. In separate bowl, toss arugula with drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, kosher salt, black pepper, and squeeze of lemon juice. Top pizza with salad. Shave a few more shards of Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top and serve.
SECONDI: Jake’s “Tastes like Love” Cassoulet
This Italian take on a French classic incorporates fennel and roasted peppers. It can be prepared in advance and tastes even better the next day.
Ingredients
½ loaf day-old baguette (or
substitute 1 cup bread-
crumbs)
Olive oil
1 large sweet white onion,
diced
1 fennel bulb, sliced
2 leeks, white and light
green parts only, cleaned
and sliced
2 carrots, finely diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 red pepper, diced
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
2 teaspoons each fresh thyme
and oregano, chopped
Kosher salt and pepper
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 slices bacon
2 pork tenderloins, cut into
2-inch cubes
1 pound wild boar sausage (or
substitute a not-too-spicy
Italian sausage). If sausages
are longer than 6 inches, cut
into 6-inch segments.
2 cups red wine
2 cups chicken stock
1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes
3 cans white cannellini beans,
drained and rinsed
½ jar roasted red peppers
(approximately 2 whole
peppers)
cup freshly grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Chopped parsley
Cut baguette into 1-inch cubes, drizzle with olive oil, and toast in 400-degree oven for 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Substitute bread crumbs for baguette if you prefer to skip this step.
Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a sauté pan. Sauté onion, fennel, leeks, and carrot until softened. Add 3 cloves of minced garlic and diced red pepper. Saut�
� for a minute or two more. Add paprika, thyme, and oregano. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add tomato paste and sauté until the paste begins to brown. Remove from heat.
Dice bacon. In large, ceramic-lined Dutch oven, sauté bacon over medium high heat until fat renders and begins to crisp.
Add pork tenderloin and sauté until golden brown. Do not crowd the pan—you may have to do it in batches (if meat sticks to pan, add a bit of olive oil). Remove browned meat to separate plate and repeat with sausage until golden brown.
Deglaze pan with 1 cup of red wine, scraping up all brown bits. Add remaining wine, chicken stock, and canned tomatoes to Dutch oven and bring to a boil. Add back the browned meat and vegetable mixture.
Bake covered casserole in 350-degree oven for approximately 1 hour, or until meat is fork tender.
Add two cans of beans and stir. Purée remaining can of beans with roasted peppers and add to casserole.
Grind bread cubes or crumbs in food processor with remaining clove of garlic and pulse until finely ground. Add grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and moisten with tablespoon of olive oil.
Distribute crumb mixture over top of casserole and bake uncovered for 45 minutes, until crust is browned and casserole is bubbling.
Garnish with chopped parsley, and share with eight people you love.
CONTORNI: Mixed Green Salad with Basic Vinaigrette
No meal in my family is complete without a salad, preferably served Italian style—after the main course. I make this salad dressing by the cup, and it lasts us all week. I like escarole and romaine, mixed with a little radicchio for color, but use your favorite combination of mixed greens.
Vinaigrette Ingredients
2 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Juice of two lemons (or as
many lemons as will yield
cup lemon juice)
cup extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Slice garlic and sprinkle with kosher salt. Mince, scraping knife back and forth over mixture to abrade the garlic, and form a paste.
Squeeze lemons to generate cup juice. Add olive oil and whisk to combine. Add garlic paste, a few grinds of black pepper, and Dijon mustard. Whisk until dressing is emulsified. Store refrigerated.
Coat wooden salad bowl with dressing and top with washed greens. Salad can be made in advance and tossed just before serving.
DOLCE: Mira’s Cacao Nib Cookies
Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup unsweetened cocoa
powder
1 teaspoon instant espresso
powder
¼ cup confectioners’ sugar
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon kosher salt or
fleur de sel
1 stick butter at room
temperature
½ cup light brown sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon Frangelico liqueur
cup cacao nibs (or, if you
can’t find them, chocolate-
covered espresso beans,
coarsely chopped)
Optional: cup toasted hazel-
nuts
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix dry ingredients (flour through salt) together in a mixing bowl.
Cream butter and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer until fluffy. Add vanilla and Frangelico and mix to combine. Add the dry ingredients a little at a time and stir to combine. Stir in the cacao nibs and toasted hazelnuts. The dough will be crumbly. Take a teaspoon of the dough and roll into a ball approximately the size of a walnut. Place on baking sheet lined with a Silpat mat or parchment paper sheet and flatten slightly.
Bake 12–15 minutes. Remove from oven and let harden a few minutes before cooling on a wire rack. Enjoy with coffee or tea.
A READING GROUP GUIDE
AFTERTASTE
Meredith Mileti
ABOUT THIS GUIDE
The suggested questions are included to enhance
your group’s reading of Meredith Mileti’s
Aftertaste.
Discussion Questions
1. Aftertaste is presented as “a novel in five courses.” In what ways does the story arc parallel the courses in an Italian meal, and in what ways is it different?
2. Which of Mira’s character traits do you most admire? Which traits do you find least admirable?
3. Mira observes, “Sometimes I think my only chance for happiness is in a kitchen, that any life I live outside is destined to be a shadowy, half-lived sort of life.” Do you think that holds true throughout the book?
4. At one point Mira says of her mother, “I’ve been left to piece her life together from the scraps she left behind. My mother hadn’t taught me to cook any more than she had taught me to be a mother, but I take comfort in the fact that I’ve still managed to learn something from her by looking in the holes.” What does Mira mean by this? What do you think she’s managed to learn by “looking in the holes”?
5. Richard tells Mira that the problem with being a cook is that you never get to be a guest at the party. Is this an occupational hazard or a character flaw?
6. The preparation of food is described in detail in various parts of the book. What purpose do these descriptions serve?
7. Many of the characters in the book (e.g., Mira, Jake, Renata, Michael, Fiona, Ruth, and Enid) display different attitudes toward food. What do those attitudes tell us about their personalities?
8. When you cook, how much do you follow a recipe and how much do you improvise? How well does that predict any other characteristics of your personality?
9. In this novel, food and its preparation often serve as a proxy for emotion. To what extent do you feel this is true in real life?
10. Are Ben and Mira well suited to each other? What is the chance they will end up together in the long run?
KENSINGTON BOOKS are published by
Kensington Publishing Corp.
119 West 40th Street
New York, NY 10018
Copyright © 2011 by Meredith Mileti
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the Publisher, excepting brief quotes used in reviews.
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ISBN: 978-0-7582-7451-9