Little America

by Richard Evelyn Byrd Jr.

  Last minute preparations for the departure of the Supporting Party were in full swing. Weather permitting, it was proposed that they should begin their departure next day, October 10th. It was decided, in a conference with Dr. Gould, that the Geological Party should accompany them for several days, in order that the men might not only orient themselves to rigor of the trail, and test out the equipment but also to advance the heavy loads 50 or 75 miles to the south.

  Thursday, the 10th, was overcast, with a 10-mile wind from the southwest spreading a draught of cold air from the hinterlands. The temperature fell from 30° to 47° below. The departure of the teams was, therefore, postponed. In a sense, the delay was fortunate, because Gould was suddenly stricken with indigestion, and although he insisted upon making the trip if conditions were favorable he could not have done so without great suffering.

  Friday, the wind was still from the southwest, blowing nearly 18 miles per hour, and the temperature was still at 47°. Again the start was deferred.

  Saturday, the 12th, the wind shifted to east, rose to a velocity of 30 miles per hour, and drove a first-class blizzard over the camp. When I ventured out in the smother for my daily walk, conditions were so grievous that I could not but be glad that the boys had at least escaped this storm so early in the journey. With the blizzard, the temperature rose from 42° to 12° below, but when the sky cleared it immediately began to go down again, quite as fast as it had risen.

  Sunday, the 13th, was cold and clear, with light variable winds, and a temperature of 34° below.

  By this time, the men in the Supporting Party were convinced that spring would never come; they besieged Haines for predictions, spent half the time running out-of-doors to see whether or not the weather would repudiate his gloomy words, and the rest making final alterations in their loads. There is one thing about sledging one should always bear in mind: the best plan can always be improved and the task of preparing for it is never really done.

  Some of us had meanwhile gone over the plans again, and come to the conclusion that the Supporting Party could take advantage of this bad weather, in a measure, by hauling part of their loads over the bay ice and depositing it on the Barrier slope. The bay ice to the south was wickedly broken up, travelling over it with heavily loaded sledges would be more difficult than they anticipated, and we recommended that they have done with it now, while there was still time for leisurely transport. We further recommended the trip as a test journey and invested the drivers with the responsibility of making the decision on the theory that, as the responsibility for the success of the whole trip rested with them, they should control it from the beginning. Although one or two men dissented, the rest were in favor of the plan.

  At 12:30 P.M. o’clock, five teams, driven by Walden, Vaughan, Goodale, Thorne and Bursey, were ready to start. They carried a total load of 4,000 pounds. Each team carried two sledges, one of them empty. The loaded sledge was to be left on the Barrier and picked up at the start of the southern journey. In the party with me were Van der Veer and Rucker, Parker and Owen.

  The sledges were off to a flying start, the dogs tearing down the slope to Ver-sur-Mer inlet in an ecstasy of energy. Chunks of snow flew back in our faces, the wind was more than chilly and our heavy clothes did not offer any too much warmth. The sledges struck the bay ice with a great show of speed, and we veered around the southern portal with such impetuosity that I thought, for a moment, the drivers proposed to sheer it off, merely to show how little they cared for such obstructions. Beyond the mouth of the inlet a mighty pressure ridge, towering and distorted, reared its serrated eminence directly across our path and bore due south for about a mile. The teams turned some distance this side of it, and ran parallel to it, between it and the walls of the Barrier. The bay ice was littered with crystals, and the runners scattered them by the thousands.

  When the sledges rounded the southern terminus of the ridge, another ridge was found just behind it. “Hi, hi, hi, hi, hi,” yelled the drivers, cracking their whips, and we crested it with a surging drive that carried us down the other side at a velocity which was somewhat faster than I had anticipated. However, this raking charge soon spent its force halfway up another incline, and the teams, one after another, slowed down as the dogs dug in for the last, belly-scraping pull.

  The trail bore slightly to the west. A short distance on we came to still another pressure ridge, somewhat more complicated than the others, being split into two more or less distinct fractures. Through the first we discovered a fairly comfortable passage, but the second, which we penetrated through a narrow corridor barely large enough to admit a single sledge, sloped sharply down into a gully which was packed with loose snow. Here every sledge ground to a halt in a smother of snow. Dogs and men threw in their strength together, and it took all we had to stir the heavily loaded sledges. More than once I was of the opinion we could go no farther.

  Thanks to the perseverance of the men and to the dogged persistence of the dogs, we got free at last. Then the surface of the ice changed, giving way to rolling waves of ice, resembling furrows, which were caused by pressure. The sledges bumped over these, booming hollowly over the ice, approaching still another ridge, of an aspect wilder than the rest. As we could not take this one by assault, we hauled out snow shovels and fell to the task of breaching it. In spite of the low temperature, shoveling was hot work and we soon were perspiring. At length the men made a sizable embrasure, sufficient to admit the sledges. On the other side fragments of old ice had been lifted high above its former level by immense pressure, huge blocks had been upended and ice boulders were strewn over the surface. The boys pushed, pulled and hauled the sledges through the break, and after an hour’s hard work had moved them all to the other side. A few miles to the south, the Barrier rolled higher and higher, its surface flecked with dancing spots of color, and long, mysterious shadows, suggestive of land which, we knew, was not there, played over it.

  The last stretch of bay ice was badly torn, and we made our way over it with difficulty. The Barrier, in the vicinity where we prepared to ascend it, rose in a series of tilted terraces. The first of these was approached by a fairly steep incline, which was surmounted by a jagged ridge. Heaving and shoving, while the dogs pulled until their red tongues drooped like flags, we hoisted the sledges to the rim of the ridge. The stretch beyond was unpromising. A series of crevasses, some of them open and showing their blue side, others bridged by snow, lay in our path. Treachery and grief lay in that tangled waste, and we studied it with respect.

  In the center of this disturbance we spotted one of the flags which had been put up last year, to mark the trail to the first depots. Otherwise this part of the trail was obliterated, and it behooved us to move with caution. Walden’s practiced eye, however, made out a likely path, and we decided to essay it. We had great difficulty in starting the sledges, for the tractive effort necessary to move them through loosely packed snow, which was like grit at this low temperature, was much greater than required on the smooth ice. Time and time again, we sank almost to the armpits when the crust suddenly let us through. There was always the unpleasant possibility that a shallow bridge might admit us altogether.

  Descending the farther side of the ridge, we came to a deep, but narrow crevasse, which investigation showed was thinly bridged at the point where we proposed to cross it. Under ordinary circumstances, I confess, I should not care to try to rush a sledge across it; but these were not ordinary circumstances. Walden was of the opinion the sledges were long enough, however, to distribute the load without greater danger, and we trusted on momentum to lessen the strain.

  The first sledge cleared the crevasse in a flurry of snow—but none too quickly, at that. As the front end rose slightly on the distant side, the rear runners dipped down and broke a hole through. One by one, three other sledges made the rush without mishap. Walden, who brought up the rear guard, had the heaviest sledge of all. Just as he cleared the edge, the sledge veered violently and tipped over, pinning hi
m underneath. He fell on the brink of a drop into a second crevasse, saving himself by clutching hold of the sledge. Without a word, he scrambled clear, righted the sledge, started the dogs and resumed his steady trot.

  A short distance on we decided to drop the loaded sledges, and return to camp. We had moved the loads only seven miles, and it had taken us four hours. We came back on the empty sledges, making excellent time. But that slight journey left on my mind an indelible impression. Whatever confidence the men on the southern parties might have, the fact remained they carried fearfully heavy loads; and no matter how optimistic they were, they would find the going very hard indeed, especially with maximum loads at the beginning. I had observed enough to come to the conclusion that, unless the cold abated, they would quickly dissipate all their strength during the first stages of the journey. On my return to camp, I had a conference with Dr. Gould, and it was decided the parties would not start until the temperature was not lower than 20° below, at which the snow would offer a better sledging surface.

  That night we nursed a generous collection of frost bites on the hands and face which were the result of fast traveling with empty sledges on the way back.

  Monday

  October 14th

  Dog teams still in camp.

  Temperature was 47° below early this morning, but rose to 21° below. Now it is falling again.

  The drivers are impatient to start, but realize this is not the time.

  Meanwhile, the camp is beginning to emerge from its winter blanket. The Aviation Unit has retrieved the Ford wing sections from the hole in which they lay and the men have just finished bolting it into position.

  Feury and Black are now digging out the snowmobile, and hope to have it in action within a day or two. We intend to send it out on the southern train, on the chance it may be of some assistance in moving supplies from one depot to another. If it proves equal to the Barrier surface, it should help the sledge parties immensely.

  There is the greatest rivalry between the crew of the snowmobile and the dog men. Feury and Blackie are boasting that they will take the snowmobile straight through to the Pole, if the road isn’t cluttered up by slow-moving dog teams. They are contending with conditions which will test their ingenuity and strength. Frankly, I doubt very much whether the Ford can make much progress in soft snow. However, it is worth a try, anyway. I like their spirit.

  Tuesday

  October 15th

  Both parties started south today.

  In the Supporting Party were: Walden, de Ganahl, Bursey and Braathen. Petersen went along to test the radio equipment on the trail and will return with the Geological Party.

  Four teams of the Geological Party accompanied them—Thorne, Vaughan, Goodale and O’Brien. Dr. Gould is in charge. It is planned that the Geological Party will return in two or three days. Each team carries the full southern load, and the trip should give the men just the seasoning and the-experience they need.

  The weather was splendid for the start: Temperature, 10° below, sky only slightly overcast, and a light wind from the northeast. The sledges moved very easily over the bay ice, and within two hours after the start (which was made at 12:15 P.M. o’clock) the first of them reached the sledges which had been left on the Barrier two days before.

  I accompanied them on a sledge driven by Siple, and he gave me what I would conservatively describe as the wildest ride I have ever had. The team was made up of a number of the wild pups which had been broken, none too well, to harness, with Holly as lead. Most of the drivers were of the opinion that the pups were not capable of pulling more than four or five miles at a time, but Siple assured me they were wrong. We started down the inlet as if going to a fire.

  Our troubles began. We had twice as many pups as were needed. The traces tangled, the sledge overturned and, worst of all, Holly stubbornly refused to stand still while we tried to straighten out the lines. In desperation, we fastened the dogs down with crow bars and snow shovels until we got things straight.

  We had not gone far when the pups tangled the lines again. As I started to get off the sledge, Holly lurched forward, spilling snow shovels, crow bars and me on the ice, and the team went off with bullet-like speed. It travelled nearly half a mile before Siple could bring it to a halt, and by that time I was marching southward with half a dozen crow bars and snow shovels under my arms. I was fond of Holly but she was mightily in wrong for the moment.

  After this, however, the pups were on their good behavior and showed a surprising amount of speed over the last stretch; their strength was prodigious. They easily passed some of the bigger teams and carried us up the Barrier well ahead of the rest.

  The loaded sledges were coupled on to the other sledges in jig-time, and we all shook hands. I merely told them: “You can do it if any men can. Every man in camp is back of you with everything we have. The only thing I ask you to remember is that the life of any man is worth more than anything we can accomplish. That comes first. Good luck, take the necessary precautions and you will come back O.K. Now go to it.”

  Bursey was in the lead, and behind him were de Ganahl, Braathen, Walden and Petersen. The teams of the Geological Party were strung out behind.

  For quite a long time we watched the line moving up the slope, disappearing behind one ridge and reappearing on the crest of another. Presently the figures grew smaller, the calls fainter, and we lost sight of them altogether.

  Their spirit and good cheer were all that could be expected and more. Their spirit will not break—that I know. But what their good cheer will be in a few hours may be another story.

  When we turned back to the sledges, we discovered that the exasperating pups had chewed their harness to pieces and were running wild. I left Siple and Dr. Coman to the job of rounding them up, and returned on Goodale’s sledge.

  Matters are moving according to schedule. The Ford engines are being checked, fuel lines renewed and the ship otherwise made ready for the polar flight.

  If luck is with us, we shall be off on the base-laying flight within three weeks.

  My concern was realized. Soon after we left them, the southern parties became bogged in deep drifts and the heavy loads were almost more than they could bear. The men stripped off outer clothing, made loops in the lines and harnessed themselves to the sledges, adding their efforts to those of the dogs. In spite of this, the sledges came to a stop every few hundred yards, while dogs and men rested to renew their strength. They radioed that night they were in camp just beyond the crevasses, 11.8 miles from Little America, having made only four miles in three hours.

  Wednesday, the 16th, they reached 20 Mile Depot after the hardest kind of pulling. Both parties were in trouble. Dr. Gould had concluded, when they reached camp, that it would be impossible for his party to continue farther until the loads were reorganized, and Walden, in command of the Supporting Party, had decided to jettison every scrap of clothing which could be spared. It was decided that the Geological Party should turn back, and that Petersen should accompany them. This would lighten the loads of the supporting Party to the extent of his equipment; but the loss was more than counter-balanced by the 180 pounds of provisions which they had to pick up at the Depot. I was informed by radio of conditions. The following messages were exchanged:

  BYRD:

  Returning tomorrow as some drastic changes o f plans necessary and I want to work them out. Regards.

  GOULD.

  GOULD:

  Whatever new plan is made cannot help but be furthered by your continuing with Supporting Party now that you have started. I suggest that you reconsider going farther for observation of pulling conditions, etc., and to advance your loads. Another day’s observation may bring to light some new facts.

  BYRD.

  BYRD:

  Not prepared to go further. Supporting Party will continue with lighter load. Very anxious to talk over situation with you. Regards.

  LARRY.

  In view of the little time they had in which to accompli
sh the mission, I was particularly anxious that the Geological Party continue according to plan on this attempt, for the reason that every pound relayed then meant that much less to be hauled when the final start was made. On the morning of the 17th, I asked Dr. Gould to reconsider his decision:

  GOULD:

  I strongly urge you to make plans where you are instead of returning to make them. This can be done with the help of the radio. Here is a suggestion: Let Supporting Party continue without dropping any loads which are intended to help the Geological Party. You wait where you are until arrival of Crockett, who can come lightly loaded and reach you tonight. He can be convoyed by Strom and Siple who will bring you whatever you need for extended trip. You then proceed with your five teams and advance your present loads, perhaps assisting Supporting Party when you catch up with them. Proceed as far as you think it proper to go and, of course, the farther you go the more it will help your final advance. I think you can go at least 100 miles south. There are a number of things which can be done from 50 to 100 miles where Supporting Party has its heaviest loads, but, of course, you can reason this out better than we can. In other words, my proposition is that you make your plans now and go on with them rather than return here to do so. I am strongly against the Supporting Party making at this early date a decision to accomplish their mission only in part. You must have them succeed completely in order that the Geological Party may succeed completely. I understand, of course, that Supporting Party can drop dog food at 20 Mile Depot and continue to 44 Mile Depot and pick up the same amount of dog food dropped, but they ought not to drop anything that would be vital to success of Geological Party. This is my best judgment after careful thought and thorough discussion. On account of my great confidence in your judgment I will not order you to proceed in accordance with this suggestion, for you may have a better plan, but please let’s make a real effort to make plans by radio rather than waste the time and energy to return to camp and simply repeat what we might now be able to do. Cheerio.