Loulou & Yves
Page 54
Dozens more lent their expertise and research and design skills, performed small but crucial services, offered leads and contributed materials: Eugenie Bell, the Richard Avedon Foundation; Ken Bergin, head of special collections and archives (including the Glin Papers), and Jean Turner, Glucksman Library, University of Limerick; Caroline Berton, Condé Nast, France; Dave Birley; John M. Bishop, who shared his dazzlingly arcane knowledge of the most obscure twentieth-century La Falaise, Margot Webb, the first wife of Loulou’s father; Dilys E. Blum, Schiaparelli scholar; Alyne de Broglie, who surprised me with the priceless, unhoped-for gift of Loulou and Thadée’s wedding video; Paul Buck; Stephen Burrows; Cynthia Cathcart, director of library and information services, and Allison Ingram, Condé Nast, U.S.; Nancy Chilton, Jessica Glasscock and Jan Glier Reeder, the Costume Institute, the Metropolitan Museum of Art; Felicity Clark; Deirdre Conroy; Ellen Creighton, Bletchley Park; Brett Croft, head archivist, Condé Nast, U.K.; Fiona DaRin; Gioia Diliberto; G. Y. Dryansky; Karina Duebner, whose house in Fès supplied the meticulously aesthetic conditions for producing a big part of this book; Pepita Dupont, who knocked on the door of a neighbor—the Japanese artist now living and working in Loulou’s old, denuded, all-but-unrecognizable apartment—and got us in; Lisa Eisner; Nesta FitzGerald; Matthew Floris, and Joanna Ling, Cecil Beaton Studio Archive, Sotheby’s; Vincent Fremont; Josephine Glover and Katy Griffiths, Christie’s; Ben Goldfarb; Kelly Hamlin; Hint Productions, which designed an early version of Loulou’s family tree; Min Hogg; Agathe Jacquemet, who recommended Margaux Donnellier; Louise Kahrmann, Loulou’s press attaché in the aughts, who opened her files to me; Henry R. Kaufman, my attorney; Julie Kavanagh; Charles Kidd, consultant editor, Debrett’s Peerage & Baronetage, who steered me through the thicket of English title usage; Nancy Kuhl, the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library, Yale University; David Kuhn, Aevitas Creative Management, and Jessie Borkan, who gave important contract advice; Amy Li; Sophie-Caroline de Margerie; Peter Markham; Christopher Marsden, senior archivist, Victoria and Albert Museum; Alexis Martin; Marc Masurovsky; Martha McClintock and Scott Rosen, Getty Images; Kathryn J. McKee, St. John’s College Library, Cambridge, repository of the Papers of Sir Cecil Beaton; Pollyanna Midwood, Birley Clubs; Philippe Le Moult, Christian Dior; Charlotte Mosley; Rebecca Paquette of Nuance, who generously provided Dragon NaturallySpeaking voice-recognition software; Mark Paytress; Diane Pernet; Marie-France Pochna; Charles Said-Vassallo, maltageneaolgy.com; Steve Sant Fournier; Tom Sancton, who showed how, despite having lost in court in l’affaire Bettencourt, François-Marie Banier walked away with over €200 million; Meryl Secrest; Stephen Michael Shearer; Ed Singleton; Miles Socha, editor in chief, Women’s Wear Daily, and Samantha Conti, London bureau chief; John Tiffany, International Best Dressed List historian; Corey Tippin; François Velde, my patient guide through the arcanum of French heraldry; Teddy Tinson; Paul Trynka; Kim Vernon; Verde Visconti; Robert Williams; Peter Webb; Lindy Woodhead; and Matt Wrbican, chief archivist, and Greg Burchard, the Andy Warhol Museum.
For their help with assistants from their institutions I am thankful to the following: James Anderson, Hywel Davies and Jo Ortmans, Central Saint Martins, London; Nancy Deihl, New York University; Isabelle Bichard, Alison Haber-Bordonaro, Joanna Kaminska and Elisabeth King, Lycée Français, New York; Elizabeth Field, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York; Christina Moon, Parsons the New School for Design, the New School, New York; Jennifer Moor and Chloe Preussker, School of Fashion, Academy of Art University, San Francisco; and Danielle Savage, American University of Paris.
Finally, at St. Martin’s Press, appreciation is due Sally Richardson, president and publisher; Gwen Hawkes; Vicki Lame; and my editor, Michael Flamini.
Taroudant, July 2017
Permissions
The following are permissions for adaptations, adapted excerpts and a complete work. Every effort has been made to identify copyright holders; in case of oversight, and on notification to the publisher, corrections will be made in future editions.
“The Only One,” by Hilton Als, first published in The New Yorker, collected in White Girls, copyright © 1994, 2013 by Hilton Als, used by permission of the Wylie Agency LLC.
“Arabella Boxer Listens to a Conversation Gastronomique and Talks to Lady Birley,” first published in British Vogue, courtesy of the author.
“Vogue Remembers Loulou de La Falaise,” by Hamish Bowles, and “A Unique, Happy Wedding Ball Given for the Knight of Glin and His Bride in London,” courtesy of Condé Nast.
“International Get-Together,” first published in British Vogue, and “Blithe Spirit,” first published in W, by Joan Juliet Buck, copyright © 1977 and 2012 by Joan Juliet Buck.
“Ricardo Bofill: The Future of the Past,” by Carson Chan, first published in mono.kultur, copyright © 2014 by Carson Chan.
Mizza Bricard letter to Cecil Beaton by permission of the Master and Fellows of St. John’s College, Cambridge.
“Haute Culture,” by Bruce Chatwin, first published in The World of Interiors, copyright © 1983 by Bruce Chatwin.
Holy Terror: Andy Warhol Close Up, by Bob Colacello (HarperCollins, 1990), copyright © 1990 by Bob Colacello.
Permission to excerpt from “It’s a Family Affair,” by Robert Colaciello (sic); “Lou Lou Klossowski: No Polish Joke,” by Monique van Vooren; and “Fashion: Sur la Scène with Saint Laurent—LouLou & Thadée Klossowski,” by Bettina von Hase, all courtesy of Interview magazine.
1939: The Last Season, by Anne de Courcy (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2003), copyright © 2003 by Anne de Courcy. Reprinted by permission of the author.
“The Knight of Glin and Madam Fitz-Gerald,” unpublished essay (page 345), copyright © 1968 and 2017 by Polly Devlin, courtesy of the author.
“Vivre poétiquement,” by Alain Elkann, first published in Paris Vogue, copyright © 1986 by Alain Elkann.
The Glin Papers, Glucksman Library, University of Limerick, copyright © 2017 by the Madam FitzGerald.
“Life Begins at 8:30,” by A. A. Gill. First published in Vanity Fair in 2013. Reprinted by kind permission of the Estate of A. A. Gill.
“The Eminence Chic,” by Marion Hume, first published in The Independent, copyright © 1992 by Marion Hume.
“The Countess of the Cliff,” by James Killough, first published on purecreativefilm.com, courtesy of the author.
“The Impresario’s Last Act,” by Jane Kramer, first published in The New Yorker, courtesy of the author.
“Gardens: A Festival of Memories,” by Elizabeth Lambert, first published in Architectural Digest, courtesy of the author.
“British Invasion,” by Jeanine Larmoth, courtesy of Hearst Magazines.
“Yves’ People: Les Intimes,” by Jean-Pierre de Lucovich, first published in Bravo Yves!, copyright © 1982 by Jean-Pierre de Lucovich.
“Portrait of Loulou,” by Gerard Malanga, copyright © 1968 and 2016 by Gerard Malanga. Reprinted with permission.
“Romancing the Stone,” by Brighid McLaughlin, courtesy of the author.
The Bad Life, by Frédéric Mitterrand, first published in 2005 as La mauvaise Vie, copyright © Éditions Robert Laffont, Paris. Translation copyright © Jesse Browner, 2010. Reprinted by permission of Counterpoint.
“Fashion Cafeteria,” by Michael Specter, first published in The New Yorker, copyright © 2004 by Michael Specter.
Inside a Pearl: My Years in Paris, by Edmund White (Bloomsbury, 2004), copyright © 2014 by Edmund White, courtesy of the author.
“Loulou de La Falaise to Open Paris House” and “Loulou’s Chinese Takeout: Longtime Yves Saint Laurent Muse to Open Her Signature Fashion Boutique Today,” by Alley Willron, with permission of Fairchild Publishing, LLC.
Index of Contributors
The index that appeared in the print version of this title does not match the pages in your eBook. Please use the search function on your eReading device to search for terms of interest. For your reference, the terms that appear in the print index are listed
below.
Alonso, Nadine
Als, Hilton
Anger, Kenneth
Aronson, Steven M. L.
Ayoko, Rebecca
Ballard, Bettina
Banier, François-Marie
Bauchau, Patrick
Beaton, Cecil
Beauvau-Craon, Diane de
Beltrami, Marie
Benaïm, Laurence
Benech, Louis
Berenson, Marisa
Bergé, Pierre
Beri, Marc
Bernard, Kate
Birley, India Jane
Birley, Lady (Rhoda)
Birley, Mark
Blahnik, Manolo
Blond, Peter
Blow, Detmar
Blum, Stella
Bofill, Ricardo
Boman, Eric
Bonargent, Rémi
Bonetti, Mattia
Boorsch, Suzanne
Bourhis, Katell le
Bowles, Hamish
Boxer, Arabella
Brantley, Ben
Bricard, Mizza
Broglie (Genty), Alyne de
Buck, Joan Juliet
Burrows, Stephen
Cammell, David
Campbell, Nina
Camu, Olivier
Catroux, Betty
Catroux, François
Chan, Carson
Chatwin, Bruce
Chatwin, Elizabeth
Chinn, Alva
Coddington, Grace
Colacello (Colaciello), Bob
Collart, Yanou
Collins, Amy Fine
Cooper, Duff
Cornforth, John
Courcy, Anne de
Couturier, Robert
Cox, Madison
Croland, David
Daniel, Kendra
Decarpentrie, Christophe
Devlin, Polly
Diliberto, Gioia
Dior, Christian
Doering, Jürgen
Dorier, Nicole
Dorléans, Francis
Dorsey, Hebe
Doutreleau, Victoire
Dryansky, G. Y.
Dufour, Gilles
Dunham, Peter
Elbaz, Alber
Elkann
Faithfull, Marianne
Farman-Farma, Amir
Farmer, Gary
Farr, Christopher
Fayard, Judy
FitzGerald, Desmond
FitzGerald, Olda
Ford, Tom
Fournier, Joël
Fox, Celestia
Fox, Margalit
François, Jean-Luc
Fremont, Vincent
Furstenberg, Diane von
Garcin, Émile
Geldzahler, Henry
Gibbs, Christopher
Gibson, Pamela
Gill, A. A.
Girard, Christophe
Givenchy, Hubert de
Goldsmith, Lady Annabel
Goodman, Tonne
Goossens, Patrick
Goossens, Robert
Grange, Jacques
Grumbach, Didier
Guerry, Geoffroy
Gutfreund, Susan
Haden-Guest, Anthony
Hammond, Drew
Haslam, Nicky
Hawkins, Ashton
Herbosch, Jano
Hogg, Min
Horwell, Veronica
Howell, Georgina
Huart, Annabelle d’
Hume, Marion
Jagger, Mick
James, Charles
Jones, Grace
Kahrmann, Louise
Kavanagh, Julie
Khelfa, Farida
Killough, James
Klein, Michel
Klossowski de Rola, Anna
Klossowski de Rola, Stash
Klossowski de Rola, Thadée
Knott, Jean-Paul
Koda, Harold
Kramer, Jane
Lacroix, Christian
La Falaise, Emmita de
La Falaise, Gabriel de
La Falaise, Loulou de
La Falaise, Martine de
La Falaise, Maxime de
La Falaise, Richard de
La Fressange, Inès de
Lagerfeld, Karl
Laird, Alistair
Laizeau, Jean-Christophe
Lambert, Elizabeth
Landels, Willy
Lander, Bradley
Lane, Kenneth Jay
Larmoth, Jeanine
Lebowitz, Fran
Lelièvre, Marie- Dominique
Levai, Rosi
Liaut, Jean-Nöel
Lieberson, Jonathan
Loeb, Caroline
Louboutin, Christian
Lucovich, Jean-Pierre de
Ludinghausen, Hélène de
Luquet de Saint Germain, Danielle
Lysaght, Charles
Machado, China
Malanga, Gerard
Mapplethorpe, Robert
Masclet, Jean-Pierre
Mason, Christopher
Mauriés, Patrick
MacLauren, Barbara
McKendry, John
McLaughlin, Brighid
Ménager, Bruno
Menil, Christophe de
Menkes, Suzy
Milner, Ray
Mitterrand, Frédéric
Mlinaric, David
Monory, Paule
Montjou, Pierre de
Morrisroe, Patricia
Morrissey, Paul
Mosley, Charlotte
Mulcahy, Fallon
Muñoz, Anne-Marie
Muñoz, Carlos
Newton, Helmut
Opačić, Francesca
Ormsby Gore, Jane
Orosemane, Monique-
Antoine (“Mounia”)
Overstreet, Richard
Pallenberg, Anita
Paquin, Paquita
Peck, Carola
Peligry, Bobby
Pendry, Jane
Penn, Tom
Peretti, Elsa
Peyrani, Beatrice
Picart, Jean-Jacques
Picoli, Françoise
Pochna, Marie-France
Powell, Yuta
Presenter, Home Shopping Network
Pringle, Colombe
Rawsthorn, Alice
Rayner, William P.
Reddi, Tara
Richards, Keith
Richardson, John
Rinaldi, Joséphine
Riquet de Caraman- Chimay, Marie-Gilone de
Roberts (Dixon), Deborah
Rosenbaum, Allen
Russell, Mary
Sainsbury, Cynthia
Saint, Clara
St. George, Sarah
Saint Laurent, Yves
Samuel, Nicky
Sanchez, Fernando
Sanchez, Violeta
Schwaab, Catherine
Secnazi, Audrey
Sherr, Leslie Hayden
Sieff, Jeanloup
Simpson, Babs
Smith, Patti
Somalie, Siki de
Specter, Michael
Stapleton, Trixie
Steele, Barbara
Steele, Valerie
Stefanidis, John
Stillman, Andrea
Stubbs, Jane
Sulzberger, David
Takada, Kenzo
Talley, André Leon
Tavener, John
Theodoracopulos, Taki
Tiel, Vicky
Tillett, Seth
Touzain, Florence
Umland, Sam
Velde, François
Vernon, Kim
Vickers, Hugo
Vivien, Michel
Vogue (American)
Vooren, Monique van
Vormese, Francine
Vreeland, Diana
Waldberg, Patrick
Warhol, Andy
Webb, Peter
Weber, Nicholas Fox
White, Edmund
Willron, Alley
&
nbsp; Wilson, Eric
Young, Kirat
LOULOU & YVES
was designed by Donna Noetzel and set in Minion Pro, Robert Slimbach’s update, introduced by Adobe Systems in 2000, of his Minion serif font. Slimbach, a trained calligrapher, was inspired by late Renaissance type in his creation of Minion, a consciously classical font, dispassionate and practical, that he particularly envisaged for body text. Robert Bringhurst paid Slimbach the compliment of using Minion for his The Elements of Typographic Style, sometimes known as “the typographer’s bible.”
Also by Christopher Petkanas
Parish-Hadley: Sixty Years of American Design
(with Sister Parish and Albert Hadley)
At Home in France:
Eating and Entertaining with the French
About the Author
Ed Singleton
CHRISTOPHER PETKANAS covered Loulou de La Falaise and the House of Saint Laurent from 1982 to 1988 while living in Paris, picking up with Loulou again more than two decades later, in 2010, the year before she died. He has written for The New York Times, Vogue, and Architectural Digest, and his books include At Home in France: Eating and Entertaining with the French, and Parish-Hadley: Sixty Years of American Design (with Sister Parish and Albert Hadley). He resides in New York City. You can sign up for author updates here.
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