Mademoiselle

by Rhonda K. Garelick

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  NOTES

  EPIGRAPH

  1 To know her: Virginia Woolf, Mrs. Dalloway (1925; repr., New York: Harcourt Brace, 1981), 152–53.

  INTRODUCTION

  1 I dressed the universe: Quoted in Paul Morand, L’Allure de Chanel (1976; repr., Paris: Hermann, 1996), 206.

  2 What is Chanel?: E.G., “La Femme de la semaine,” L’Express, August 17, 1956, 8–9.

  3 Bowing to her wishes: Michel Déon, Bagages pour Vancouver (Paris: Editions de la Table Ronde, 1985), 16–18; Pépita Dupont, “Michel Déon Raconte Chanel,” Paris Match, October 31, 2008.

  4 insisted at the last minute: Later, Arthur Gold and Robert Fizdale published the lost section on Chanel in their 1980 biography of Sert.

  5 Charles-Roux’s biography: An �
��irregular woman” is the antiquated French term for a woman who enters society through unorthodox means, through the back door—a woman of slightly imperfect virtue (similar to the English use of the term for damaged clothing or merchandise sold at a discount: “irregulars”).

  6 this impossible injunction: Despite knowing of Chanel’s wishes, in 1990 Marquand published her own—largely flattering, and rather thin—memoir about her friendship with Chanel, Chanel m’a dit [Chanel told me] (Paris: Editions Lattès, 1990).

  7 mysterious footsteps: Justine Picardie, Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life (New York: HarperCollins, 2010), 328; “Lunch with Coco Chanel Biographer Justine Picardie,” La Chanelphile, September 22, 2011.

  8 ongoing unearthly power: Picardie also credits Chanel with helping her through her own painful divorce and has published articles comparing her own life’s travails to Chanel’s. See, for example: Justine Picardie, “How Coco Chanel Healed My Broken Heart,” Mail Online, September 29, 2010.

  1. EARLY LIFE

  1 If there’s one thing: Quoted in Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel (2008; repr., Paris: Belfond, 1987), 14.

  2 housewives who gathered early: Edmonde Charles-Roux, L’Irrégulière: L’Itinéraire de Coco Chanel (Paris: Editions Grasset, 1974), 42–45.

  3 “The stands of itinerant peddlers”: Eugen Weber, Peasants into Frenchmen, 1870–1914 (Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press, 1976), 408.

  4 restricted their selling: Charles-Roux, 45–48.

  5 “My father always wished”: Louise de Vilmorin, Mémoires de Coco (Paris: Editions Gallimard, 1999), 19.

  6 pregnant once more: Charles-Roux, 47–56.

  7 “Early happiness handicaps people”: Morand, L’Allure de Chanel, 24.

  8 good-luck charm: Haedrich, 21.

  9 “I have satisfied her needs”: Vilmorin, 17.

  10 exhausted women who bore them: Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own (New York: Henry Holt, 1991), 7. “Disappearing was a practice at which all the Chanels excelled,” notes Edmonde Charles-Roux, 65.

  11 The toddlers ran about: Chanel never acknowledged her poor, itinerant roots, but on rare occasions, a tidbit about her peasant existence would escape her. She recounted, for example, this brutally vivid snippet about peddler-style dentistry: “[I recall] the tooth-extractors who traveled with a drummer and a trombonist in order to drown out the screams of the unhappy patient at the moment when his rotten tooth was being wrenched out.” Quoted in Vilmorin, 27.