For 2 miles south of Kaba Tepe the beach is shelving and sufficiently wide for landing troops. The mouth of the Asmak Dere, close under Kaba Tepe, is most favourable for landing field or heavy guns, as the approaches inland are easy up the valley of the stream. Farther south, a steep slope of friable soil ascends from the strip of beach, and is quite practicable for infantry to ascend. The lower part of the Asmak Dere and adjoining country is intersected by several deep, steep-sided watercourses, over which field guns could perhaps be hauled by hand; short ramps, however, could be dug without much difficulty in the sandy soil. For 2 miles south of Kaba Tepe the ground is undulating and cultivated. A ridge, about 100 feet in height and covered with olive groves, skirts the shore between the upper part of the Asmak Dere and the sea. Landing parties would have to ascend this on first leaving the beach; it would form the first covering position. The ground in the Asmak Dere becomes very heavy in wet weather. According to the chart, there is sufficiently deep water near the shore, 5½ fathoms being marked ½ a mile off, and there are no rocky obstructions. The narrow fringe of beach continues to the south until within 2 miles of Tekke Burnu, where the cliffs run sheer into the water. An infantry landing could take place at the wide mouth of the valley which runs down from Ibrahim Agha’s Farm and the Chana Ovasi. Shallow water is marked on the chart at the mouth of this valley. The ascent from the beach is rough and steep at some points, but it is quite practicable for infantry. Krithia can be reached by the various small ravines which run down to the beach opposite that village, but the ascent is steep in each case.
2. North of Kaba Tepe Promontory. [Brighton Beach, the intended Anzac landing place, April 1915; the actual Anzac landing place, a mile farther north, was not considered as a practicable landing place in the 1909 Report.] For 2 miles north of Kaba Tepe is a shelving beach, some 60 yards wide, backed by steep, friable sandy cliffs from the Saibair, a very rough and difficult ridge which extends inland towards Biyuk Anafarta. Landing for troops is easy, but they would have to march south on leaving the shore and join the other troops in the Asmak Sere. A deep, sandy ravine occurs just north of Kaba Tepe, where ramps would probably have to be made to pass field guns.
3. South of Nibrunesi Point. [used during Suvla landings in August 1915] The beach south of Nibrunesi Point, for a distance of 2 miles, as far as Fisherman’s Hut, is wide and easy for landing, but a belt of thick, low scrub, rather difficult to traverse, fringes the shore. The 5-fathom line is from 500 to 1,000 yards from the shore, and the anchorage is protected from the prevalent northerly winds. A track runs along the beach to the landing place north of Kaba Tepe, but the cliffs have fallen and blocked it at some points, although it might be made passable with difficulty. Between Fisherman’s Hut and Kaba Tepe, where the hills approach the shore, the beach is generally narrow and lined with precipitous sandy cliffs [actual Anzac landing place].
4. Suvla Bay. [used in August 1915] The northern shore of the bay is lined by low, rocky cliffs, some 30 feet high, and rocky hills covered with low scrub extend along the coast to the east. Between the cliffs and the mouth of the Salt Lake is a stretch of firm, sandy beach, 900 yards in length, on which a landing could easily be effected in calm weather or when the wind is north. In a southerly wind landing would not be practicable, but northerly winds are prevalent, especially in winter, and from these the bay is quite sheltered. Deep water extends close up to the beach, but there are occasional shoals. A landing on the north side of the bay gives access to a stretch of sandy hillocks, covered with tufts of grass, which offer no obstacle to the passage of guns or wheeled vehicles; 800 yards inland cultivation (principally maize) is reached, with firm ground passable for all arms. The hill between Salt Lake and Nibrunesi Point is of sand and stones, covered with low scrub, and has an old tomb on the summit. The plain between the Topalin Mezar Dere and the Kizlar Dere is covered with cultivation and dotted with large trees, oak and walnut. Low scrub-covered hills of sandy soil descend to the plain from the south and east. The Salt Lake or Lagoon is ordinarily dry in summer, but with a south wind it may fill up again. From November to April it always contains water. When dry its bed is easily passable for infantry. The opening to the sea is 80 yards wide, and also becomes dry in summer.
5. Ejelmer (Mermedia) Bay. [Not used in 1915] About 6 miles north of Cape Suvla, has about 1,200 yards of beach available for landing, but is small and rather open to the violent north winds which are prevalent on this coast. For this reason it is not so suitable as an anchorage as Suvla Bay. Access is easy by the Kurtumuz valley to Turshtenkeui, whence good tracks lead to Boghali and Maidos. On either side of the bay rise steep hills, which form part of those on the northern side of the Peninsula. In the Dardanelles, north and north-east winds called by the Turks ‘meltem’, prevail, on an average, for nine months in the year. In winter, north-east winds often blow hard for several days; there are also frequent south-west winds of some violence.
[Descriptions of the ‘Routes Inland From The West Coast’ were then given, with going information, (42–3) and the Report then went on to consider the Cape Helles area under the following heading: (45)]
Landing Places Along The Straits. [Only those used in April 1915 are given here: S, V and W Beaches] On the Cape Helles promontory is a sandy bay [W Beach], just south of Tekke Burnu, which offers a favourable landing place from which to attack Ertroghrul Battery. North-west of the lighthouse there is an excellent landing place on a stretch of beach 150 yards long. The north-west extremity is marked by the small watercourse shown on the Admiralty chart. There is only one house shown, and this stands on the north side of the stream. The distance from this landing place to Ertroghrul Fort is rather over 1,000 yards, the intervening country being a general rise, with no trees or obstructions, so that field or machine guns could be drawn across it without difficulty. The lighthouse is the only building between the landing place and the fort. At Sedd-el-Bahr village there is a small landing jetty [V Beach; Lancashire Landing & River Clyde; not considered as a suitable landing place in the 1909 Report, presumably because it was commanded by the guns of Sedh-el-Bahr Fort]. At Morto Bay, inside Sedd-el-Bahr Fort, is a good sandy beach with easy approaches, where a landing could be made if necessary. Although the hills descend very steeply to the shore between Eski Hissarlik [S Beach, used in April 1915, was immediately under the west side of Eski Hissarlik Point, where stood De Totts Battery] and Kilid Bahr, yet they do not form a line of cliffs, and landing from boats might be effected on the narrow strip of beach at most places … [not attempted in 1915].
[It also noted:] From the head of Maidos Bay (Kilia Liman) to Kaba Tepe on the Aegean a well-marked depression, slightly above sea level, runs across the Peninsula, dividing the Kilid Bahr plateau from the hills farther north. North of this depression is the Saribair Hill, a steep, rugged ridge, which rises to 970 feet, and dominates very steeply the village of Biyuk Anafarta. It is seamed with many ravines, covered with brushwood, and generally difficult of access [authors’ emphasis], except on the southern spurs about Kojadere and Boghali, which are somewhat easier.
Maps and Plates with the Secret 1909 War Office Report on The Defences of Constantinople
[The maps included with the Report, and listed in the Contents, were:]
1. Map of the Peninsula of Gallipoli and Asiatic Shore of the Dardanelles 1/63,360 GSGS 2285 (Secret). Sh. 1. [with defence overprint]
2. Map of the Peninsula of Gallipoli and Asiatic Shore of the Dardanelles 1/63,360 GSGS 2285 (Secret). Sh. 2. [with defence overprint]
3. Sketch map showing the position of the Forts at the Narrows of the Dardanelles (European shore) in relation to the Kilid Bahr Plateau. 1/5,280. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton; form-lines given, but no vertical-interval; shows Kilid Bahr, its Old Castle, Namazie Fort, Rumeli Mejidie, Hamidie II, Khota Suyu Tabia, Yildiz or Tekke Tabia, etc., with number and calibre of guns, and MG or field gun batteries. No defences looking landward]
4. Survey of Defensive Position near Bulair. 1/15,840. T
SGS 2052. Confidential. [Showing the lines constructed by the Anglo-French Army in 1855. Sketched December 1876 by Lieut Cockburn RE and Lieut Chermside RE. Corrected June 1905. Close-contoured (form-lined), but no vertical-interval given, with spot-heights. It is to be presumed that Maunsell himself undertook the correction in 1905]
5. Turkey 1/250,000. Constantinople Sheet. GSGS 2097 (Secret). [War Office January 1909, coloured, with red defence overprint: Forts and Batteries, Chatalja Lines, and Black Sea & Bosphorus Defences]
6. Reconnaissance of the Chatalja Lines. 1/63,360. GSGS 1736 (Secret). [1876 – corrected by Lieut-Col. F R Maunsell, Military Attaché, up to 15th March 1903]
7. Constantinople and the surrounding Country. 1/63,360. GSGS 2390 (Secret). Sh. 1. [with defence overprint]
8. Constantinople and the surrounding Country. 1/63,360. GSGS 2390 (Secret). Sh. 2. [with defence overprint]
[The Plates were:]
Gallipoli Peninsula
1. Sketch of Suvla Bay, from the north-west. [west on the plate; shows ‘Beach for Landing’. (Print code 110. 11/08. 1381) 400 W.O.]
2. View of Taifurkeui road, from Rematara. [photo]
Besika Bay
3. Sketch of Besika Bay earthworks [drawn by FRM; shows ‘sandy beach, easy for landing.’ Print code as no.1]
Dardanelles
4. Plan of Fort Sedd-el-Bahr. 1/1500. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
5. View of Fort Sedd-el-Bahr, from seaward. [photo, Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
6. Plan of Orkhanie Fort. 1/1500. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
7. Plan of Kum Kalesi Fort. 1/1500. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
8. View of Kum Kalesi Fort, from seaward. [photo, Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
9. View of Orkhanie Fort, from seaward. [photo]
10. View of Kum Kalesi Fort, from the south-west. [photo]
11. Sketch of Dardanus Q.F. Battery, from the Straits. [drawn by FRM; same print code as no.1]
12. Plan of Rumeli Mejidie Fort. 1/1500. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
13. View of Rumeli Mejidie Fort, from seaward [photo]
14. View of the batteries on Kilid Bahr Promontory, from seaward. [photo]
15. Plan of Hamidie II Fort. 1/1500. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
16. Plan of Namazie Fort. 1/1500. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
17. View of interior of Namazie Fort, from the rear. [photo; Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
18. Plan of Hamidie I Fort. 1/1500. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
19. Plan of Chanak Kalesi Fort. 1/1500. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
20. View of Hamidie I Fort, from seaward. [photo]
21. View of Chanak Kalesi Fort, entering the Narrows. [photo]
22. View of Chanak Kalesi Fort (west front), from the Narrows. [photo; Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
23. Plan of Derma Burnu Fort. 1/1500. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
24. Plan of Anadoli Mejidie Fort. 1/1500. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
25. Plan of Nagara Kalesi Fort. 1/1500. [Ordnance Survey, Southampton]
26. View of Anadoli Mejidie Fort, from the Straits. [photo]
27. View of Mal Tepe and Nagara Baba Forts, from Nagara Liman. [photo]
28. Sketch of Kilid Bahr Plateau, from the NE. [long panorama, drawn by F R Maunsell; same print code as no.1]
Bulair Lines
29. View of Fort Sultan, from the north. [photo]
30. View of Ground north-west of Bulair Lines, from head of Domuz Dere. [photo]
31. View of Fort Sultan and Redoubt ‘E’, from near Bulair Village. [photo]
32. View of Uzun Tepe and Port Bakla, from Bulair. [photo]
33. View of Port Bakla, from Bulair Village. [photo]
Chatalja Lines
[Plates 34–46. (Plates 41 and 43 drawn by F R Maunsell Lieut. col. Nov. 1902; 39, 44 and 46 drawn by FRM)]
Positions N-W of Constantinople
[Plates 47–8]
Bosphorus
[Plates 49–62]
Black Sea Coast (European Shore)
[Plates 63–9]
Black Sea Coast (Asiatic Shore)
[Plates 70–2]
Appendix IV
Extract from: Report on Landing Places at KABA TEPE (Gallipoli Peninsula) with two roads leading therefrom to MAIDOS and the KILID BAHR Plateau. Road traversed 8th to 10th Sep. 1910. By Major L. L. R. Samson. Adrianople. 28.9.1910. B.16/I.547.
[A copy is in The National Archives at TNA(PRO) WO 106/1534. NB:
1. Samson uses the word ‘track’ to mean beach, as well as the more usual usage of unmade road or path. To avoid confusion, where he means beach, this word has been added in square brackets.
2. Part of this report was incorporated into a Report on Gallipoli Peninsula issued on 12 April 1915 to the Anzac Corps (and presumably the other attacking formations) by Medforce GHQ before the landings.]
Details of Landing Places at KABA TEPE (Gallipoli Peninsula) and of two roads leading therefrom.
Introductory
There exist two landing places at KABA TEPE from one at least of which it should be possible to get guns inland to the plateau overlooking the KILID BAHR defences.
1st Landing Place
To the north of KABA TEPE is a good firm track [beach] for a distance of about 1,000 yards, but there are indications of the presence of shoals close inland which render it inadvisable to attempt a landing except by daylight. The track [beach] is about 30 yards in depth.
Country Inland
The mainland where it joins the track [beach] consists of sandy hillocks covered with tufts of coarse grass which at the point of junction rise perpendicularly from the track [beach] to a height of 6 feet, rendering movement difficult for anything but infantry. The hillocks are 50 yards across and are succeeded by cotton fields which meet low scrub-covered hills some 300 yards from the track [beach]. The stream running into the sea here is dry in summer, its banks are vertical, some 15 feet in height.
Except on the track [beach] this stream cannot be crossed without artificial aid until the hills are reached, at which point the track to BUYUK ANAFARTA crosses it. This track connects with a road inland to MAIDOS through ESKI KEUI, particulars of which are given later in this report. This landing place might, with advantage, be used to land covering troops to move on ESKI KEUI.
2nd or Main Landing Place
The main landing place is to be found South of KABA TEPE where is a track [beach] stretching southwards for upwards of a mile. In consequence of shoals which appear to exist here, it may be considered that only 600 yards due South of KABA TEPE affords a safe landing place, being that portion of the shore between that promontory and the mouth of the ASMAKDERE. The track [beach] here is shelving, of firm sand, and about 30 yards in depth, there being deep water close inshore. It is said that there is comparatively little difference in the depth of the track at high and low tide. It is sheltered from the North wind by KABA TEPE, and to a certain extent by the promontory to the South of it, where are low sandy cliffs. The prevailing winds here are either Northerly or Southerly.
Country inland of landing place
A thin fringe of sandy hillocks covered with tufts of grass forms the boundary between the mainland and the track [beach]. These are much lower than those at the landing place previously described, and offer but little obstacle to the passage of guns on wheeled vehicles. Inland from these is cultivation, chiefly cotton fields and sesame. The soil is sandy and is somewhat heavy where the mainland joins the track [beach].
The ASMAKDERE at the point where it flows into the sea is 10 yards wide and 2 feet deep. (See Watering places).
Position to cover landing
The left bank of the ASMAKDERE, which runs North and South about one mile from its mouth, affords a position to cover the landing of a force at this point. The soil here is sandy, covered with coarse grass and occasional patches of cultivation, it is easy for entrenchments. The valley Eastwards, i.e. towards MAIDOS is dotted with large
oak trees.
Roads inland. Footpath
A narrow footpath follows the left bank of the ASMAKDERE, the banks of which are low and passable anywhere for infantry, as is the stream. This path is said to lead inland to the MAIDOS–KRITHIA road, but it is passable only for infantry in file and pack animals.
Road for wheeled traffic
In order to move guns inland it would be necessary to follow a track which leaves the track [beach] 150 yards north of the mouth of the ASMAKDERE. This is an ill-defined track passing for 180 yards through rather heavy sand. Following the course of a small tributary brook of the ASMAKDERE for a short distance, it passes through patches of cultivation and joins the ESKI KEUI – BUYUK ANAFARTA road at a point a little over a mile from the landing place. The cultivation is interspersed with stretches of short coarse grass, the soil throughout being firm and sandy. The track is 4 yards wide, and there is no obstacle to moving off it in any direction, save by the banks of the brook mentioned above.
Road to KILID BAHR Plateau
The ESKI KEUI road is now followed. [Report continues]
Grasping Gallipoli Page 43