Terra : Cooking from the Heart of Napa Valley (9780307815323)

by Sone, Hiro; Doumani, Lissa; Puck, Wolfgang (FRW)

  ¼ teaspoon water

  Mushroom Sauce

  2 teaspoons unsalted butter

  1 slice bacon, cut into ¼-inch-wide strips (about 1 tablespoon)

  1 tablespoon minced shallot

  6 ounces wild mushrooms, cleaned and cut into bite-size pieces

  ⅛ teaspoon minced garlic

  Pinch of chopped fresh thyme

  ¼ cup veal stock

  2 cups heavy cream

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  Garnish

  4 fresh thyme sprigs

  2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives

  TO MAKE THE VOL-AU-VENTS, preheat the oven to 400°. On a lightly floured board, roll the puff pastry out into a 7 by 14-inch rectangle 3/16 inch thick. Using a 3½-inch round cookie cutter, cut out 8 rounds from the sheet of puff pastry. Using a 2½-inch round cookie cutter, cut out 4 rounds from the center of 4 of the large rounds to form rings. In a small bowl, combine the egg yolk with the water to make an egg wash. Brush the rings and the smaller rounds with the egg wash. Place the rings, brushed side down, on top of the larger rounds so that the 3½-inch rounds are a double thickness on the outside. Match the ring up carefully and don’t press hard; the puff pastry will puff better if it is not pressed down. Brush the tops of the rings only with the egg wash, being careful not to let any of it drip down the sides of the puff pastry. Place the vol-au-vents and the 2½-inch rounds on a baking sheet pan lined with parchment paper, and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until golden brown on top and cooked through on the bottom. Keep warm in a 200° oven, or reheat them in a 350° oven for 2 minutes just before serving.

  TO MAKE THE SAUCE, melt the butter in a large sauté pan or skillet over high heat. Add the bacon and shallots, lower the heat to medium, and sauté until the shallots are soft, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and garlic, increase the heat to high, and sauté for 2 minutes longer. Add the thyme, stock, and cream, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the sauce thickens slightly, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

  TO SERVE, place 1 vol-au-vent in the center of each of 4 warmed plates. If the centers of each vol-au-vent are puffed up, tap them down gently with your finger to make a well; be careful not to break through the bottom. Divide the sauce and mushrooms among the wells of the vol-au-vents, putting most of the sauce inside and the extra around the outside. Garnish each well of mushrooms with a sprig of thyme, then set a 2½-inch round on top. Sprinkle with chives.

  Radicchio Salad with Parmesan-Balsamico Vinaigrette

  Radicchio Salad with Parmesan-Balsamico Vinaigrette

  Serves 4

  Hiro came up with this salad when he was the chef at Spago in Los Angeles. It was so good, we decided to save it for when we opened our own place. That turned out to be a wise decision. It was one of the first dishes on our menu when we opened, and it’s remained there to this day, a favorite with our regular customers. Depending on the variety and where it’s grown, radicchio can have a bitter flavor. Before you use it, taste a leaf. If you want to reduce the bitterness you can soak it for up to 30 minutes in cold water. Any leftover salad can be sautéed (in its dressing) and served as a side dish with meat or game.

  ¼ baguette, or enough for ¾ cup croutons

  Parmesan-Balsamico Vinaigrette

  ¼ teaspoon grated garlic

  1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

  1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

  1 tablespoon sherry wine vinegar

  2 tablespoons corn oil

  ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

  Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

  2 heads radicchio, about 4½ inches in diameter, halved and cored

  ⅔ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

  TO MAKE THE CROUTONS, preheat the oven to 350°. Cut the baguette into ½-inch cubes. Spread the bread cubes on a rimmed baking sheet pan and bake until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Set aside.

  TO MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE, whisk together the garlic, Dijon mustard, balsamic vinegar, and sherry vinegar in a small bowl. Mix together the corn oil and extra virgin olive oil, then slowly whisk it into the vinegar mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

  Separate the radicchio leaves and soak them in cold water for 10 minutes, or longer if necessary. Drain and dry (with a lettuce spinner, if you have one). Cover with a damp towel and refrigerate until ready to use.

  TO SERVE, combine the radicchio, croutons, vinaigrette, and ⅓ cup of the Parmesan cheese in a large bowl, tossing well so each leaf is coated with vinaigrette. Divide the salad among 4 chilled plates and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan cheese.

  Need a Hand?

  WHISKING OR STIRRING INGREDIENTS IN A LARGE BOWL CAN BE TRICKY WHEN YOU’RE ALONE IN THE KITCHEN, AND THE BOWL WANTS TO ROCK AND ROLL TO THE BEAT OF A DIFFERENT DRUMMER. TRY THE TRICK WE USE AT THE RESTAURANT: HOLDING A DISH TOWEL BY OPPOSITE CORNERS, ROLL IT INTO A ROPE. LAY THE TOWEL IN A CIRCLE ABOUT THE SIZE OF THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL AND PLACE THE BOWL IN THE CENTER OF THE CIRCLE TO HOLD IT IN PLACE.

  Escabeche of Lake Smelt

  Serves 4

  Before there was refrigeration, people all over the world discovered that preparing fresh fish in an acidic marinade could help preserve it for a few extra days. In Spain, fish was first crisp-fried, then steeped in a vinegar marinade, a style of cooking that has come to be known as en escabeche. The vinegar penetrates the fish to the bones and softens them enough to make the smaller ones edible. We love the flavor that this two-step technique gives to fish and to the delicate pickled vegetables that steep along with it. If lake smelt are not available surf smelt or white bait are a fine substitute.

  Marinade

  1 cup rice vinegar

  1 cup dry white wine

  ⅔ cup sugar

  1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salt

  Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

  4 bay leaves

  1½ teaspoons coriander seeds

  1 teaspoon black peppercorns

  1 carrot, peeled and sliced into 1/16-inch-thick rounds

  1 small onion, peeled, halved, and sliced ⅛ inch thick

  1 cup water

  Vegetable oil for deep-frying

  1 pound small lake smelt (about 3½ inches long)

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper

  1 cup all-purpose flour

  Garnish

  1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

  12 chive flowers (optional)

  TO MAKE THE MARINADE, combine all the ingredients in a large nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil, decrease the heat, and simmer for 1 minute. Set aside and keep hot.

  TO DEEP-FRY THE SMELT, heat 3 inches of oil in a deep, heavy pot to 360°. Season the smelt with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour and pat between your hands to shake off the excess. Deep-fry the smelt in batches for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Don’t overcrowd the pot or the smelt won’t get crisp and will overcook. Using a wire-mesh skimmer or slotted metal spoon, transfer the smelt to paper towels to drain. When all the smelt are done, put them in a nonreactive container, then pour the hot marinade over them. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or until cold, up to 2 days.

  TO SERVE, arrange the smelt with some of the vegetables from the marinade on each plate, spoon some of the marinade over the smelt, sprinkle with the chives, and decorate with the chive flowers.

  Baked Mussels in Garlic-Parsley Butter

  Serves 4

  These mussels prepared in the style of escargot are heaven for anyone who loves snails, and perfect for people with “escargophobia” as well. You’ll need 4 escargot dishes—the ceramic ones with 6 holes and a little handle, not the shallow plates used to serve escargot in the shell. You can fill the dishes ahead of time, wrap them in plastic, and refrigerate them until you’re ready to finish them in the oven. The smell of the bubbling butter and garlic as these come to the table does just what an appetizer should
do: It makes people hungry. Make sure you’ve got plenty of crusty bread on hand to sop up the sauce.

  28 black mussels, scrubbed and debearded; this includes a few extras, in case some don’t open

  ½ teaspoon minced garlic

  ⅓ cup dry white wine

  ⅔ cup garlic-parsley compound butter, at room temperature

  2 tablespoons tomato sauce

  1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

  IN A SMALL SAUCEPAN, combine the mussels, garlic, and wine. Cover and place over high heat. Steam the mussels until they open, 3 to 4 minutes. Discard any mussels that do not open. Drain over a bowl to catch the cooking liquid, then strain the cooking liquid through cheesecloth. Let cool. Gently remove the mussels from the shells, then put them in the cooling liquid. Cover and refrigerate until using; this will keep the mussels moist and flavorful.

  Preheat the oven to 500°. Drain the mussels (the cooking liquid can be frozen for another use), then place a mussel in each of the 6 holes of each escargot dish. Cover each hole with compound butter to the top, then put ¼ teaspoon tomato sauce on top of each hole. Place the 4 dishes on a baking sheet pan and bake until the butter starts to bubble, 6 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and place each dish on a separate plate. Be careful, as the butter is hot.

  How to Clean Mussels

  AS SOON AS YOU GET THE MUSSELS HOME, PUT THEM IN A LARGE BOWL, TOSS ON A HANDFUL OF SALT, AND SHAKE THE BOWL TO BEGIN CLEANING THE SHELLS. IF THERE ARE ANY FIBERS ON THE SURFACE OF THE SHELLS, USE A WIRE SCRUBBER TO REMOVE THEM. RINSE THE MUSSELS IN COLD WATER, PUT THEM BACK IN THE BOWL, COVER THEM WITH A DAMP CLOTH, AND REFRIGERATE THEM UNTIL YOU’RE READY TO USE THEM. THE BEARD—THE FIBROUS STRAND THAT COMES OUT FROM BETWEEN THE TWO HALVES OF THE SHELL AND IS USED BY THE MUSSEL TO ATTACH ITSELF TO A ROCK OR OTHER SURFACE—MUST BE TAKEN OFF RIGHT BEFORE COOKING, SINCE REMOVING IT KILLS THE MUSSEL. TAKE THE MUSSEL IN ONE HAND AND, WITH YOUR OTHER HAND, GRAB THE BEARD BETWEEN YOUR THUMB AND THE TIP OF A SPOON AND PULL HARD (OR, IT MAY BE EASIER TO JUST USE YOUR FINGERS). IF YOU’RE SERVING THE MUSSELS WITHOUT THEIR SHELLS, DON’T BOTHER BEARDING THEM BEFORE YOU COOK THEM. ONCE THE SHELLS ARE OPEN AND THE MUSSELS ARE COOKED, IT’S MUCH EASIER TO REMOVE THE BEARD. ANY COOKED MUSSELS THAT DON’T OPEN ARE DEAD AND SHOULD BE DISCARDED.

  Petit Ragout of Sweetbreads, Mushrooms, Prosciutto, and White Truffle Oil

  Petit Ragout of Sweetbreads, Mushrooms, Prosciutto, and White Truffle Oil

  Serves 4

  When people ask us about the best dishes at Terra, we always start by recommending sweetbreads, especially this warm ragout enriched with veal stock and wild mushrooms. Then we usually explain that they’re not brains. Sometimes, people are a bit reluctant to give them a try, but so far, we’ve had no complaints—and lots of converts. Once, though, when Lissa asked a customer how she was enjoying her meal, she replied that the sweetbreads were delicious, but not very sweet. Lissa explained that this is a savory dish and left it at that. She didn’t have the heart to tell her what she was eating; better to just let her enjoy it.

  Hiro says he can always tell when Lissa’s been recommending the sweetbreads, because the order will come in with a request for mashed potatoes to be added to the plate—her favorite way to eat them. If you’re serving them as a main course, mashed potatoes do make a wonderful addition, but for an appetizer, it can be a lot of food.

  20 ounces veal sweetbreads

  3 tablespoons rice vinegar

  2 tablespoons salt

  1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  Sauce

  1 tablespoon unsalted butter

  1 teaspoon minced garlic

  2 teaspoons sherry wine vinegar

  3 tablespoons dry white wine

  3 cups veal stock or brown chicken stock

  1 tablespoon tomato puree

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  1 tablespoon unsalted butter

  3 ounces wild mushrooms, cleaned and cut into bite-size pieces

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  ¼ cup rice flour

  ¼ cup all-purpose flour

  3 tablespoons clarified butter

  1 tablespoon julienned prosciutto

  ¼ cup fava beans, blanched for 1 minute and peeled

  2 teaspoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

  Garnish

  ½ teaspoon white truffle oil (optional)

  ⅓ cup loosely packed chervil sprigs

  TO PREPARE THE SWEETBREADS, put them in 1 gallon of ice water to soak overnight; this will remove any blood left in them. The next day, bring 8 cups water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the rice vinegar, salt, and pepper, lower the heat to a low simmer, add the sweetbreads, and gently poach them for 4 to 5 minutes, or until firm but medium rare. Transfer to a bowl of ice water and let cool for 10 minutes. Drain and pat dry with a towel. Clean off any visible membrane or veins. Cut into ½-inch-thick medallions.

  TO MAKE THE SAUCE, melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté just until it starts to caramelize. Add the vinegar and wine, and bring to a boil. Add the stock and tomato purée, and return to a boil. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm.

  TO MAKE THE RAGOUT, melt the butter in a sauté pan or skillet over high heat. Add the mushrooms and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes. Lightly season with salt and pepper and set aside.

  In a medium bowl, mix together the rice flour and all-purpose flour. Season the sweetbreads with salt and pepper, then dredge them in the flour mixture. In a large sauté pan or skillet, heat the clarified butter over high heat until hot. Add the sweetbreads and sauté until crisp and golden brown, about 1½ minutes per side. Transfer them to the sauce and add the mushrooms, prosciutto, fava beans, and parsley. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper.

  TO SERVE, spoon the ragout into 4 warmed shallow bowls. Drizzle with the white truffle oil and top with chervil sprigs.

  Fried Haricots Verts with Anchovy-Garlic Mayonnaise

  Serves 4

  This delicate appetizer is inspired by the light frying technique of tempura and the flavors of fritto misto. We make it with haricots verts, the very small, thin French-style green beans. If you can’t find them, blue lake or yellow wax beans will also work well. The secret to golden color and crispy texture: Fry just a few beans at a time. This takes a little more time and patience, but it keeps the oil temperature constant and ensures that the beans stay separate and fry evenly. This recipe comes with a little bonus: The Anchovy-Garlic Mayonnaise makes a wonderful Caesar salad dressing.

  1½ pounds small haricots verts or baby Blue Lake beans, stemmed

  Anchovy-Garlic Mayonnaise

  1½ teaspoons egg yolk (½ yolk)

  1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

  2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon rice vinegar

  ⅔ cup olive oil

  ½ teaspoon minced garlic

  1½ teaspoons chopped anchovy fillets

  1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more if needed

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  Batter

  2 eggs

  ½ cup pastry flour

  ⅛ teaspoon minced garlic

  1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese

  1 teaspoon olive oil

  1 tablespoon water

  Pinch each of salt and freshly ground black pepper

  Vegetable oil for deep-frying

  Salt to taste

  4 large radicchio leaves (optional)

  12 yellow cherry tomatoes

  12 red cherry tomatoes

  1 teaspoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

  3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

  1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges and seeded

  TO MAKE THE HARICOTS VERTS, bring a pot of salted water to boil. Add the haricots verts and blanch them for 1 to 2 minutes, then drain and plunge them into a bowl of ice water. Drain and pat dry. If
the haricots verts are tiny, blanch them for just 30 to 45 seconds. It’s best to test them every 30 seconds; they will cook again and should still have some crispness after the first cooking.

  TO MAKE THE MAYONNAISE, combine the egg yolk, mustard, and rice vinegar in a food processor. With the machine running, gradually add the olive oil in a thin stream, then add the garlic, anchovy, and lemon juice. Adjust the acidity with more lemon juice, if necessary. Season with salt and pepper.

  TO MAKE THE BATTER, whisk together all the ingredients in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate until you are ready to fry the haricots verts.

  Preheat the oven to 250°.

  Heat 3 inches of oil in a deep, heavy pot to 360°. Put the haricots verts in the batter and coat well. Drop the haricots verts one by one into the oil in batches so the oil temperature doesn’t drop and the haricots verts don’t stick together. Fry until golden brown and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a wire-mesh skimmer or slotted metal spoon, transfer the beans to paper towels to drain. Place the beans on a baking sheet pan, season with salt, and keep warm in the oven while frying the remaining beans.

  TO SERVE, spread 4 plates with the mayonnaise and place 1 large radicchio leaf in the center of each plate. Divide the haricots verts among the radicchio leaves, then arrange the cherry tomatoes around each plate. Sprinkle with the parsley and Parmesan and place a lemon wedge on the side of each plate.

  Salmon and Tuna Tartare with Spicy Lemon-Ginger Vinaigrette and Sesame Tuiles

  Salmon and Tuna Tartare with Spicy Lemon-Ginger Vinaigrette and Sesame Tuiles