Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, stemmed
½ cup packed spinach leaves
⅔ cup chicken stock
Pinch of minced garlic
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
4½ ounces chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and cut or torn into bite-size pieces
3 tablespoons clarified butter
20 ounces large scallops, cleaned (hinge removed)
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 peeled baby carrots, blanched
4 baby yellow squash, blanched
12 sugar snap peas, blanched
2 cups hot garlic mashed potatoes
4 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs, for garnish
TO START THE NAGE, combine the shallots and wine in a small, heavy nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook until reduced to 2 tablespoons. Add the cream and return just to a boil. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm.
Bring a pot of salted water to boil. Add the parsley and spinach and blanch for 10 seconds. Drain and immerse in ice water until cold. Drain, squeeze out all the excess water, and coarsely chop. Combine in a blender with the cold stock and garlic and process until smooth. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing the solids with the back of a large spoon to extract all the liquid. Reserve the liquid and discard the solids. Melt the butter in a medium sauté pan or skillet over high heat, add the chanterelle mushrooms, and sauté for 2 minutes. Set aside.
TO SAUTÉ THE SCALLOPS, heat the clarified butter in a large sauté pan or skillet over high heat until hot. Season the scallops with salt and pepper, dust with flour on both sides, and sauté until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. Remove the pan from the heat and let the scallops rest in the pan for 1 minute.
Meanwhile, finish preparing the nage: Reheat the cream mixture and add the parsley-spinach puree and the chanterelle mushrooms. Bring just to a boil, then remove from the heat. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Set aside and keep warm.
At the same time, melt the butter in a medium sauté pan or skillet over medium heat, add the carrots, squash, and sugar snap peas, and sauté until heated through, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
TO SERVE, put ½ cup garlic mashed potatoes in the center of each of 4 warmed shallow bowls. Spoon the mushroom and parsley nage evenly around the potatoes, then place one fourth of the scallops on top of each serving of mashed potatoes. Arrange the carrots, squash, and sugar snap peas on and around the scallops. Garnish with the parsley sprigs.
Grilled Fillet of Pacific Salmon with Thai Red Curry Sauce and Basmati Rice
Grilled Fillet of Pacific Salmon with Thai Red Curry Sauce and Basmati Rice
Serves 4
This is another customer favorite we can never take off our menu. It has something for everyone: a spicy red curry sauce that cuts through the richness of the salmon, a cool crisp cabbage salad for contrast, and nutty basmati rice to sop it all up. We’ve taught this dish in many cooking classes, and at first we wondered if it might be a little too complicated for the home cook. But we have been pleasantly surprised time and again when people come into the restaurant and tell us they make it at home. Funny thing though: They still order it when they come to Terra.
Basmati Rice
1 cup basmati rice
½ teaspoon unsalted butter
1½ cups water
2 cups loosely packed thinly sliced cabbage
⅓ cup loosely packed julienned cucumber
2 tablespoons cilantro leaves
2 tablespoons mint leaves
Thai Red Curry Sauce
2 teaspoons peanut oil
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, cracked
1½ teaspoons curry powder
1½ teaspoons Thai red curry paste
1½ teaspoons paprika
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1¼ cups unsweetened coconut milk
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons tomato puree
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons firmly packed brown sugar
4 (6-ounce) king or Atlantic salmon fillets, each ¾ inch thick
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped roasted peanuts
PREPARE A FIRE in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill.
TO MAKE THE RICE, preheat the oven to 350°. Wash the rice in a colander under cold running water for 1 minute, then drain well and set aside for 10 minutes. In a small ovenproof saucepan, combine the rice, butter, and water. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook over high heat until strong steam comes out from under the lid. Remove from the heat, put the pan in the oven, and bake for 12 to 14 minutes, or until the rice is tender and all the water is absorbed. Set aside and keep warm.
TO START THE SALAD, combine the cabbage, cucumber, cilantro, and mint in a medium bowl, and toss well. Cover and refrigerate.
TO MAKE THE SAUCE, in a medium saucepan over a medium heat, heat the peanut oil and sauté the garlic and ginger until the garlic is lightly browned. Remove the pan from the heat and add the coriander seeds, curry powder, curry paste, paprika, and cumin. Decrease the heat to low and sauté for about 2 minutes to release the oils and flavors; be careful not to burn the mixture. Stir in the coconut milk, tomato puree, soy sauce, and brown sugar. Increase the heat, bring the sauce almost to a boil, and remove from the heat. (Don’t let the sauce boil, or the sauce will separate.) Keep warm or reheat gently before serving.
MEANWHILE, TO COOK THE SALMON, brush the fillets with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the fillets for about 2½ minutes per side for medium rare, or until browned on the outside but still slightly translucent in the center. Or, heat a grill pan or skillet over high heat until very hot and cook the fillets for about 2½ minutes per side for medium rare, or until browned on the outside but still slightly translucent in the center.
TO FINISH THE SALAD, toss the cabbage mixture with the soy sauce and rice vinegar in a large bowl. To serve, place about ½ cup rice in the center of each of 4 warmed plates. Ladle ½ cup sauce around the rice, then place a fillet on top of the rice. Top each fillet with a tall mound of the cabbage salad. Sprinkle the sauce with the peanuts.
Croquettes of Copper River Salmon with a Ragout of Morel Mushrooms and Asparagus
Serves 4
Make these golden breaded fillets in the spring, when morels, asparagus, and Copper River salmon (which has a fresh, clean flavor and deep red-orange color) are in season. We use Japanese-style panko bread crumbs to coat the fish. They’re made from shredded fresh bread and are larger and more rough textured than ordinary breadcrumbs. The result is a lighter, crispier crust that keeps the salmon moist and sweet inside.
Salmon Croquettes
4 Copper River or king salmon fillets, cut into 1¼-inch-wide by 1¼-inch-high by 4-inch-long strips
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 egg
2 tablespoons milk
½ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs) or regular dried bread crumbs
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Ragout
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup julienned leek (white part only)
¼ cup julienned peeled carrot
¼ cup sliced onion
3 ounces morel mushrooms, cleaned
2 tablespoons veal stock or brown chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
4 jumbo asparagus, trimmed, blanched for 2 minutes, and cut 1-inch-long pieces
Garnish
½ teaspoon medium-coarse sea salt
12 fresh chervil spr
igs
⅓ cup Pinot Noir Essence
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
TO MAKE THE CROQUETTES, season the salmon strips with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour to coat evenly; pat off the excess. Whisk together the egg and milk until completely incorporated, then dip each strip in the mixture, making sure to coat evenly. Dredge in the panko to coat evenly. Set aside. Preheat 3 inches of oil in a deep, heavy pot to 370°.
TO MAKE THE RAGOUT, melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat and sauté the leek, carrot, and onion until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the morels and sauté for 1 minute. Add the veal stock and cream and bring just to a boil. Set aside and keep warm. Just before serving, add the asparagus and heat for about 2 minutes.
TO DEEP-FRY THE CROQUETTES, add as many croquettes as will fit in the pot of preheated oil without overcrowding and cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted metal spatula, transfer the croquettes to paper towels to drain.
TO SERVE, finish the ragout by adding the asparagus and heating. Divide the ragout among 4 warmed plates. Cut each croquette into 3 pieces and place them around the ragout, cut side up. Sprinkle a bit of sea salt on each piece of croquette and garnish each with a chervil sprig. Drizzle with the Pinot Noir essence around the outside of the ragout and croquettes and sprinkle with chives.
The Principles of Deep-Frying
1. Always use plenty of oil. DON’T SKIMP HERE; DEEP-FRYING NEEDS TO BE JUST THAT. WHEN IT’S DONE CORRECTLY AT THE PROPER TEMPERATURE, THE OIL FORMS A “SKIN” ON THE SURFACE OF THE INGREDIENT WHICH KEEPS IT FROM BEING ABSORBED INTO THE FOOD; AS A RESULT, THE FOOD GETS CRISP AND WON’T BE GREASY. SHALLOW FRYING PRODUCES VERY DIFFERENT RESULTS.
2. Start with fresh oil. USED FRYING OIL CONTAINS SMALL PARTICLES OF FOOD THAT MAY BURN WHEN THE OIL IS REHEATED, IMPARTING A BITTER FLAVOR. ALSO, OIL BREAKS DOWN AND OXIDIZES AS IT HEATS, AFFECTING ITS PERFORMANCE. COMMERCIAL FRYING OILS HAVE STABILIZERS THAT HELP PREVENT THIS PROBLEM. IF YOU DO DECIDE TO REUSE OIL AFTER FRYING, STRAIN IT THROUGH A COFFEE FILTER TO REMOVE FOOD PARTICLES.
3. Dry before you fry. IF INGREDIENTS ARE COVERED WITH SURFACE MOISTURE, THIS MOISTURE WILL TURN TO STEAM AND SPATTER ON CONTACT WITH THE OIL, WHICH CAN BE DANGEROUS. THE EVAPORATION OF EXCESS MOISTURE ALSO LOWERS THE OIL TEMPERATURE. USE PAPER TOWELS TO DRY THE INGREDIENTS AS THOROUGHLY AS YOU CAN.
4. Don’t overfill the pot. CROWDING WILL CAUSE THE OIL TEMPERATURE TO DROP AND MAY KEEP THE INGREDIENTS FROM COOKING EVENLY. IT CAN ALSO CAUSE FOOD TO COOK TOGETHER IN CLUMPS INSTEAD OF FRYING IN INDIVIDUAL PIECES. A GOOD RULE OF THUMB: DON’T FILL THE POT MORE THAN HALF FULL WITH OIL, AND STOP ADDING INGREDIENTS WHEN THE OIL LEVEL REACHES THE THREE-QUARTER MARK.
5. Keep the temperature constant. USE AN OIL THERMOMETER, AND ADJUST THE HEAT TO KEEP THE OIL CONSISTENTLY AT THE TEMPERATURE RECOMMENDED IN THE RECIPE. WAIT, IF NECESSARY, UNTIL THE OIL RETURNS THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE BEFORE ADDING MORE INGREDIENTS—DEEP FRYING IS A PROCESS THAT CAN’T BE RUSHED.
HERE’S A GUIDE TO THE BASIC FRYING TEMPERATURES YOU’LL NEED FOR OUR RECIPES.
300°F – OIL BLANCHING (PRECOOKING INGREDIENTS WITHOUT LETTING THEM COLOR). EXAMPLES: JAPANESE EGGPLANT, FRENCH FRIES.
320°F – INGREDIENTS THAT COOK QUICKLY, BUT HAVE SOME MOISTURE IN THEM THAT NEEDS TO EVAPORATE BEFORE THEY CAN BEGIN TO COLOR. EXAMPLE: SESAME TUILES.
340°F – INGREDIENTS THAT HAVE A MEDIUM DENSITY AND THAT YOU WANT TO COOK A BIT BEFORE THEY START TO COLOR. EXAMPLE: HARICOTS VERTS.
360°F – INGREDIENTS THAT NEED TO BE SEALED QUICKLY. EXAMPLE: LACQUERED QUAIL, SPRING ROLLS, FINISHING FRENCH FRIES, CATFISH.
Fricassee of Catfish with Tomato-Garlic-Caper Sauce
Serves 4
We’re glad to see catfish getting more popular as today’s farmed varieties become more widely available. They’re sweet and clean-tasting, and their firm flesh makes them easy to work with—especially when you’re deep-frying. The secret to great frying is to use a thermometer to keep the temperature constant. We also like to use heavy old-fashioned iron skillets to keep the heat even. If you still feel that catfish has too muddy a flavor, try soaking the fillets in milk for about 3 hours before cooking.
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Tomato-Garlic-Caper Sauce
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon sliced garlic
1½ cups ½-inch-diced peeled tomatoes
2 teaspoons capers
2 teaspoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil
20 niçoise olives
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1½ cups chicken stock
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
20 ounces skinless catfish fillet, cut into 1 by 3-inch strips
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups hot fontina cheese polenta
Preheat 2 inches of oil in a deep, heavy pot to 360°.
TO MAKE THE SAUCE, in a large sauté pan or skillet, sauté the butter and garlic over medium heat until the garlic is lightly browned. Add the remaining ingredients except salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Season with the salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm.
TO DEEP-FRY THE CATFISH, season the catfish with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour to coat evenly; pat off the excess. Add as many pieces of catfish as will fit in the pot of preheated oil without overcrowding and cook until golden brown and crispy, 2 to 3 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. Using a slotted metal spatula, transfer the catfish to paper towels to drain.
TO SERVE, bring the sauce back to a boil. Add the catfish all at once, return to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 10 seconds. Place 1 cup of polenta into each of 4 warmed shallow bowls. Divide the catfish and sauce equally among the bowls.
Pan-Roasted Local Halibut on Garlic Mashed Potatoes with Jus de Mer
Serves 4
This dish is like two wonderful meals in a single bowl—a perfect, simple halibut fillet and a lusty shellfish “stew”—with creamy mashed potatoes to bring it all together. Every forkful is a revelation. Here in California, we’re lucky to have very high-quality local halibut that weigh in at ten to fifteen pounds—small by halibut standards. We love their delicate fresh flavor. If you can’t get the California variety, use the freshest Alaskan or East Coast halibut you can find.
Croutons
4 baguette slices, ½ inch thick and 6 inches long
2 teaspoons olive oil
Jus de Mer
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons minced garlic
Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
½ cup chopped onion
22 black mussels, scrubbed and debearded
22 Manila clams, scrubbed
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ cup tomato puree
1 cup fish stock or chicken stock
½ teaspoon saffron threads
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
4 (6-ounce) halibut fillets, about 1¼ inches by 2½ inches by 4 inches
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons clarified butter
2 cups hot garlic mashed potatoes
2 teaspoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons aïoli
TO MAKE THE CROUTONS, preheat the oven to 350°. Brush the baguette slices with the olive oil, place them on a rimmed baking sheet pan, and bake until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Set aside. Increase the oven temperature to 500° for the halibut.
TO MAKE THE JUS DE MER, heat the olive oil, garlic, and chili flakes in a large saucepan over medium heat and sauté until the garlic is golden brown. Add the onion, increase the heat to high, and sauté until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the mussels and clams and sauté for 1 minute. Add the wine, bring to a boil, then add the tomato puree, stock, and
saffron. Bring to a boil, cover, and cook the mussels and clams for 3 minutes, or until the mussels and clams open; shake the pan once or twice to evenly distribute the heat. Discard any mussels or clams that don’t open. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm.
MEANWHILE, TO COOK THE HALIBUT, season the fillets with salt and pepper and dust with flour. Melt the butter in a large ovenproof sauté pan or skillet over high heat, add the fillets, and cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the fillets over, put the pan in the oven, and roast for 2 to 3 minutes, or until opaque throughout.
TO SERVE, mound ½ cup mashed potatoes in the center of 4 warmed shallow bowls. Spoon the jus de mer around the potatoes, evenly distributing the mussels and clams. Place a halibut fillet on top of the potatoes and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Put some aïoli on each crouton and place one in each bowl, sticking out from the potatoes.
How to Clean Clams
AS SOON AS YOU GET THE CLAMS HOME, PUT THEM IN A LARGE BOWL, TOSS IN A HANDFUL OF SALT, AND SHAKE THE BOWL TO BEGIN CLEANING THE SHELLS. RINSE THE CLAMS UNDER COLD WATER. CHECK EACH CLAM BY TWISTING THE SHELLS APART BETWEEN YOUR THUMB AND FOREFINGER (LIKE SNAPPING YOUR FINGERS). IF ANY CLAMS OPEN, DISCARD THEM; LIVE CLAMS WILL BE STRONG ENOUGH TO HOLD THEIR SHELLS CLOSED. FILL THE BOWL WITH COLD WATER AND ADD A LIBERAL AMOUNT OF SALT. PUT THE CLAMS IN THE WATER AND REFRIGERATE 1 HOUR TO PURGE THEM OF ANY DIRT OR SAND THEY MAY CONTAIN. DRAIN THE CLAMS, RINSE THEM IN COLD WATER, PUT THEM BACK IN THE BOWL, AND COVER THEM WITH A DAMP CLOTH. REFRIGERATE THE CLAMS UNTIL YOU’RE READY TO USE THEM. WHEN YOU COOK THE CLAMS, ANY THAT DON’T OPEN ARE DEAD AND SHOULD BE DISCARDED.
Roasted Risotto-Stuffed Monterey Squid with Black Olive–Balsamico Vinaigrette
Terra : Cooking from the Heart of Napa Valley (9780307815323) Page 11