Roasted Risotto-Stuffed Monterey Squid with Black Olive–Balsamico Vinaigrette
Serves 4
This is our twist on seafood risotto, and the squid bodies make the perfect casing for the stuffing. We use Monterey squid for this dish because they’re small and tender. Any small fresh squid will work, as will high-quality frozen squid. Avoid larger, thicker squid, which will become tough when cooked in this way.
Risotto
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
½ teaspoon minced garlic
½ cup arborio rice
Tentacles from squid, below, coarsely chopped (reserve 4 tentacles for garnish, optional)
3 tablespoons dry white wine
1 cup chicken stock
3 tablespoons tomato concassée
Pinch of saffron threads
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
½ teaspoon chopped fresh basil
Black Olive–Balsamico Vinaigrette
2 tablespoons minced kalamata olives
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
8 Monterey squid, each about 5 inches long, cleaned and skinned
Fried Squid Tentacles (optional)
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
4 squid tentacles, reserved above
½ cup all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
3 large red or yellow bell peppers, roasted, peeled, and cut into ½-inch strips
TO MAKE THE RISOTTO, preheat the oven to 400°. In a small, heavy ovenproof saucepan or Dutch oven, melt the butter over high heat and sauté the onion and garlic until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rice and sauté until opaque, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the squid tentacles and sauté until they turn white. Add the wine, stock, tomato concassée, and saffron and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook in the oven for about 14 minutes, or until tender but firm. Spread the risotto out on a rimmed baking sheet pan and let cool, then mix the basil into the risotto. Increase the oven temperature to 450° for the squid.
MEANWHILE, TO MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE, combine the olives, vinegar, soy sauce, and olive oil in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
TO STUFF THE SQUID BODIES, use a spoon or pastry bag (or your fingers) to fill each body with the risotto. Don’t stuff them too tight; as they cook the squid will shrink a little bit and can burst. Close the opening with a toothpick by squeezing the open end flat; push the toothpick through at the end of one side, then bring it back down and through the end of the other side, like using a pin to hold a hem.
TO MAKE THE FRIED TENTACLES, heat 2 inches of oil in a deep, heavy pot to 360°. Dredge the reserved tentacles in the flour; shake off the excess. Add the tentacles to the hot oil and deep-fry until crisp, 45 to 60 seconds. Using a wire-mesh skimmer or a slotted metal spoon, transfer the tentacles to paper towels to drain. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm.
TO ROAST THE SQUID, heat the olive oil in a large ovenproof, nonstick pan over high heat until hot. Season the stuffed squid with salt and pepper and carefully put them in the pan. Lower the heat to medium and cook for about 1 minute, then turn the squid over, put the pan in the oven, and roast for 3 minutes. Remove from the oven and turn the squid again, then cover and let rest for 1 minute. (This is to let the risotto get hot without overcooking the squid.)
TO SERVE, divide the bell pepper strips among 4 warmed plates, mounding them in the center. Place 2 squid on each mound of bell pepper strips, then drizzle the vinaigrette over and around the squid. Garnish with a fried squid.
Acqua Pazza
Acqua Pazza
Serves 4
“Acqua Pazza” means “crazy water,” and we’re crazy about this classic southern Italian-style whole fish that’s as flavorful as it is beautiful. The fish is first lightly sautéed, then poached in water flavored with garlic, tomato, and wine. This rich broth becomes the sauce for the moist, tender fish. If you’d rather make this dish with boneless fish, choose fillets with the skin on, which will be less likely to fall apart. (See photo.)
Acqua Pazza Broth
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 large cloves garlic, smashed
Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
2 cups dry white wine
2 teaspoons capers
4 cups water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 (1-pound) whole Tai snapper or striped bass, cleaned, scales, gills, and fins removed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup olive oil
24 oven-dried tomatoes
½ cup cherry tomatoes, stemmed and halved
20 kalamata olives
1½ pounds Manila clams, cleaned
2 heads escarole, halved and stemmed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
Preheat the oven to 400°.
TO MAKE THE BROTH, heat the olive oil and garlic over medium heat in an ovenproof saucepan or baking dish large enough to hold the 4 fish; sauté the garlic until it is lightly browned. Add the pepper flakes, wine, and capers, and bring to a boil. Add the water, bring the broth back to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and season with salt and pepper.
While the broth is simmering, season the fish with salt and pepper, including the inside of the cavities, then dredge in the flour. Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan or skillet over high heat until almost smoking. Working in batches, if necessary, add the fish and sauté until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side.
Transfer the fish to the simmering broth and add the oven-dried tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, and olives. Bring to a boil, then cook in the oven for 10 minutes. Put the pan back on the stove. Add the clams and cook over medium heat to reduce the broth to 4 cups, gently shaking the pan so that the fish don’t stick to the bottom and occasionally using a ladle to baste the fish with the broth.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to boil. When the broth has reduced, add the escarole to the boiling water and blanch for 1 to 1½ minutes. Drain, then gently squeeze the excess water out with tongs.
TO FINISH THE DISH, divide the escarole among 4 warmed large plates as a bed for the fish. Carefully place a fish on top of each escarole bed, using 2 slotted metal spatulas if necessary so the fish does not break. Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning. Add the parsley and basil to the broth. Divide the broth, oven-dried tomatoes, clams, olives, and cherry tomatoes evenly among the plates.
Bottom: Discussing olive oil with Osvaldo
Sautéed Pesto-Marinated Tai Snapper with Grilled Langoustines and Tomato–Black Olive Vinaigrette
Sautéed Pesto-Marinated Tai Snapper with Grilled Langoustines and Tomato–Black Olive Vinaigrette
Serves 4
Tai snapper is the snapper of choice in Japan, because its flavor is mild and sweet and its flesh firm. That’s what makes it a good choice for marinating in a flavorful coating of pesto, then sautéeing in olive oil. If you can’t find Tai snapper, any small snapper will work well. Don’t leave the fish in the pesto for more than 24 hours, or it will take on too much pesto flavor. This is a perfect warm-weather dish, with the summery flavors of the Mediterranean.
4 (5- to 6-ounces each) Tai snapper fillets, boned, and skin on
⅓ cup pesto
4 (3- to 4-ounces each) langoustines or large tiger shrimp, head on if possible
1 tablespoon olive oil
Tomato–Black Olive Vinaigrette
½ cup tomato concassée
1 teaspoon chopped shallots
2 teaspoons sherry wine vinegar
¼ teas
poon paprika
Pinch of cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon coarsely chopped kalamata olives
Salt to taste
Salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
Freshly ground white pepper to taste
12 asparagus, trimmed and peeled
2 cups hot mashed potatoes
4 fresh basil sprigs, for garnish
TO MARINATE THE SNAPPER AND LANGOUSTINES, first score the skin of the snapper with a sharp knife, making 2 to 3 shallow diagonal slits in the skin so that the fillets will not curl when cooking. Spread the pesto on both sides of the fillets and put the fish in a glass baking dish, skin side down. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 5 hours. To marinate the langoustines, butterfly them by cutting from the top of the head down to the tail in a straight line, being careful not to cut all the way through, and devein. Open them up and lay them flat on a plate. Drizzle the olive oil over them, turning to coat both sides. Cover and refrigerate until ready to cook.
Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill.
TO MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside.
TO COOK THE SNAPPER AND LANGOUSTINES, season the snapper with salt. In a large nonstick sauté pan, heat the olive oil over high heat, add the snapper, skin side down, and sauté until crisp and golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes; using a spatula, gently press on the fillet as it cooks so that the entire skin gets caramelized. Turn it over and cook for about 2 minutes, or until opaque throughout.
At the same time, season the langoustines with salt and pepper. Grill the langoustines, shell side down, until the shell color changes to a pinkish white and smells toasty, about 1 minute. Flip over and grill the other side for about 1 minute. Or, heat a skillet or grill pan over high heat until very hot and cook the langoustines, shell side down, until the shell color changes to a pinkish white, about 1 minute; cook the other side for about 1 minute.
Meanwhile, bring a pot of salted water to boil. Add the asparagus and blanch for 2 minutes.
TO SERVE, put ½ cup mashed potatoes into the center of each of 4 warmed plates. Drizzle the vinaigrette around the mashed potatoes and put the snapper, skin side up, on top of the mashed potatoes. Position the langoustines, meat side up, on the snapper at an angle to the fillet. Arrange the asparagus, tips up, in a triangular pattern against the langoustines. Garnish with a basil sprig.
Marinating
TO MARINATE INGREDIENTS EVENLY AND COMPLETELY WITH A MINIMAL AMOUNT OF MARINADE, PLACE THE INGREDIENTS AND THE MARINADE IN A HEAVY, SEALABLE PLASTIC BAG, FORCE OUT ALL THE AIR, SEAL THE BAG, AND PUT IT IN A SHALLOW PAN. EVERY SO OFTEN, GIVE THE BAG A QUICK MASSAGE AND FLIP TO REDISTRIBUTE THE INGREDIENTS AND THE MARINADE.
Grilled Tournedos of Tuna and Fried Miyagi Oysters with Lemon-Caper Aïoli
Serves 4
Tuna is best when it’s cooked no more than medium-rare and served with clean, simple flavors. In this luxurious presentation, its steak-like taste and texture make a nice counterpoint to the crunchiness of fried oysters. On their own, the oysters are also a great first course or passed appetizer, and you’ll find all kinds of other uses for the aïoli.
4 (6-ounce) tuna steaks, 1½ inches thick
2 teaspoons olive oil
Lemon-Caper Aïoli
1 cup mayonnaise
⅛ teaspoon grated garlic
1 teaspoon chopped capers
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Black-Olive Oil
2 tablespoons chopped kalamata olives
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Fried Oysters
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
1 egg
2 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
12 Miyagi or other Pacific oysters, shucked
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup dry bread crumbs
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 bunches green Swiss chard, stemmed and blanched
12 oven-dried tomatoes
1 cup upland cress or watercress sprigs
2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives
COAT BOTH SIDES OF THE TUNA with the olive oil and marinate for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°. Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill.
TO MAKE THE AÏOLI, whisk together all the ingredients in a small mixing bowl.
TO MAKE THE BLACK-OLIVE OIL, whisk together the olives and the olive oil in a small bowl. Set aside.
TO DEEP-FRY THE OYSTERS, heat 2 inches of oil in a deep, heavy pot to 350°. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the egg, milk, and flour. Lightly season the oysters with salt and pepper. Dip the oysters in the egg mixture, then dredge in the bread crumbs. Add as many oysters as will fit in the pot without overcrowding, and cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Using a wire-mesh skimmer or slotted metal spoon, transfer the oysters to paper towels to drain and keep warm.
TO COOK THE TUNA, season the steaks with salt and pepper and grill for 1½ minutes per side for medium rare. Or, heat a grill pan or skillet over high heat until very hot and cook the steaks for 1½ minutes per side. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large sauté pan or skillet over high heat and sauté the Swiss chard for 2 minutes, or until heated through. Put the oven-dried tomatoes on a baking sheetpan and heat in the oven until hot, about 2 minutes.
TO SERVE, divide the Swiss chard among 4 warmed plates. Place 3 oven-dried tomatoes around the chard, then place a tuna steak on top of the chard. Place 3 fried oysters on top of the tuna. Drizzle the aïoli on the oysters and around the Swiss chard. Drizzle the black-olive oil around the Swiss chard. Place a mound of upland cress on top of the oysters and sprinkle with chives.
Poached Skate Wing on Napa Cabbage with Ponzu
Serves 4
Skate is the most succulent fish we know. The “wing,” or fin, contains a lot of gelatin, making it moist and flavorful. If you’re not familiar with skate, eating it can be a bit of a surprise: It has a triangular shape with cartilage running down the middle and meat on either side, which falls away easily when the fish is cooked. It’s most often served sautéed or roasted, but we like to poach it to bring out its toothsome texture and sweet flavor. You can make this recipe with fillets from larger wings or whole smaller ones.
½ napa cabbage, cored and cut into 2-inch-square pieces (about 8 cups)
4 cups water
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
¼ cup dry sake
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
4 (5-ounce) skate wing fillets, skinned, each at least ½ inch thick and 4 by 3 inches
½ cup julienned leek (white part only), soaked in ice water for 30 minutes and drained
⅓ cup daikon sprouts, without roots, cut into 1-inch-long pieces
1 cup ponzu
1 tablespoon Asian (toasted) sesame oil
Garnish
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
TO COOK THE CABBAGE, bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the cabbage and cook for 3 minutes; drain, reserving a little of the boiling water in the pot. Put the cabbage in a colander suspended over but not touching the water; cover with the lid. Set aside.
At the same time, in a large saucepan, combine the water, rice vinegar, and sake. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the skate wing fillets and gently poach for 2 to 3 minutes, or until opaque throughout. Carefully remove the fillets from the pan and drain on a towel. Keep hot.
TO SERVE, divide the cabbage evenly among 4 warmed shallow bowls. Place a fillet on top of each mound of cabbage. Mix the leek and daikon sprouts together and mound on top of each skate wing. In a small saucepan, combine the ponzu and sesame oil and heat just until warm. Spoon the mixture over the leeks, sprouts, and fillets. Sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds
and chives.
Sautéed Alaskan Spot Prawns with Curry-Shrimp Sauce, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, and Snow Peas
Sautéed Alaskan Spot Prawns with Curry-Shrimp Sauce, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, and Snow Peas
Serves 4
We think crustacean and curry is a natural combination. And when you marry the sweetness of plump spot prawns with the spiciness of a creamy curry sauce enriched with their shells, the result is unbelievable. This dish has a lot of ingredients, but it’s not at all tricky to make. Just take the time to measure and prepare everything before you start cooking.
20 (3-ounce) head-on Alaskan spot prawns or black tiger shrimp, or 20 (1½-ounce) black tiger shrimp without heads
Curry-Shrimp Sauce
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup sliced onion
⅓ cup sliced carrot
½ teaspoon chopped garlic
Shells (and heads, if available) from 20 prawns, above
1 tablespoon curry powder
2 tablespoons Cognac
4 cups chicken stock
½ cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons minced shallots
2½ ounces black trumpet mushrooms or 1½ ounces shiitake mushrooms, cleaned, stemmed, and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
40 snow peas, stemmed and blanched
2 tablespoons tomato concassée
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