Terra : Cooking from the Heart of Napa Valley (9780307815323)
Page 24
IN A SMALL BOWL, whisk together the sherry vinegar, balsamic vinegar, and mustard. Gradually whisk in the corn oil and extra virgin olive oil in a thin stream. Add the shallot. Season with salt and pepper.
Ponzu
Makes about 1⅓ cups
This lemon-soy dressing is the “oil and vinegar” of Japan. It is eaten on meat, fish, and vegetables. Made without oil, it’s a great choice for people concerned about fat. You can keep ponzu in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ cup rice vinegar
6 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin
Zest of 1 lemon
IN A SMALL NONREACTIVE SAUCEPAN, combine all the ingredients and bring to a boil. Let cool and refrigerate. Remove the lemon zest before using.
Sake Marinade
Makes about ¾ cup
This is Hiro’s version of the Japanese mother sauce. A variation of it is used in almost every Japanese marinade and soup base, and you can use it to marinate almost anything. Once you start using it, it will become a staple in your kitchen, as it is in ours. Increase the recipe if you need more.
¼ cup soy sauce
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons sake
¼ teaspoon grated peeled fresh ginger
¼ teaspoon grated garlic
IN A BOWL, whisk together all the ingredients.
Momiji Oroshi
Makes about ⅔ cup
This traditional Japanese condiment of seasoned, grated daikon is used for a variety of dishes. If you want to halve the recipe, you can save the remaining daikon and use it to make more momiji oroshi within the next day or two—the daikon should be grated fresh each time.
1 small daikon (about 1 pound), peeled and coarsely chopped
About ½ cup water
2 pinches of cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon paprika
COMBINE THE DAIKON AND WATER in a blender and puree until smooth. Transfer to a fine-mesh sieve and let drain without pressing for 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a bowl; whisk in the cayenne and paprika. Cover and refrigerate for up to 6 hours.
Why Grate Garlic or Ginger?
WE RECOMMEND USING A GINGER GRATER (AVAILABLE IN STORES THAT CARRY ASIAN PRODUCTS) FOR BOTH GINGER AND GARLIC. GRATING GINGER ALLOWS YOU TO EXTRACT THE JUICE AND THE MEATY PULP, LEAVING BEHIND THE TOUGH, STRINGY FIBERS. IF A RECIPE CALLS FOR GINGER JUICE, PUT THE GRATED PULP IN A PIECE OF CHEESECLOTH AND TWIST THE CLOTH TO RELEASE THE JUICE. GRATING GARLIC RELEASES ITS FLAVORFUL OILS AND GIVES YOU A SMOOTH PUREE THAT’S EASY TO INCORPORATE INTO SAUCES. THIS IS PARTICULARLY USEFUL WHEN THE GARLIC IS EITHER UNCOOKED OR BARELY COOKED, SUCH AS IN MARINADES AND VINAIGRETTES. GRATED GARLIC ALSO BLENDS BEAUTIFULLY WITH OTHER INGREDIENTS. THE KIND OF GINGER GRATER WE LIKE BEST IS A SHALLOW CERAMIC BOWL WITH THE GRATING SURFACE IN THE CENTER AND A SILICON RING ON THE BOTTOM TO PREVENT SLIPPING.
Preserved Lemons
Makes 4 cups
Use these straight from the jar to add a lovely lemon flavor to all kinds of dishes. The rind of the lemon “cooks” in the salt and loses its bitterness, becoming soft and delicate. Preserved lemons can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.
10 lemons, quartered and seeds removed
2½ cups freshly squeezed lemon juice, or more as needed
½ cup salt
PACK THE LEMONS as tightly as possible into a 1-quart mason jar. Whisk the 2½ cups lemon juice and the salt together in a bowl, then pour over the lemons in the jar. There should be enough juice to cover the lemons; if there isn’t, add more. Keep at room temperature for 1 week, each day shaking the jar to distribute the salt and juice, and opening the top for a minute or so to release any built-up gas. Refrigerate for 1 month, or until the skins become soft, as in marmalade. They are now ready to use.
Pesto
Makes about ¼ cup
In addition to the recipes in which we call for pesto in this book, we use it for all kinds of things—tossing with pasta, drizzling over boiled potatoes or any other vegetable. It’s also good with grilled fish. Pesto freezes beautifully. You can store it in an airtight container or plastic freezer bag for up to a month.
1 small clove garlic, smashed
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh basil
1 teaspoon coarsely chopped fresh flat leaf parsley
2 teaspoons pine nuts, toasted
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Pinch of salt
Pinch of freshly ground white pepper
IN A SMALL MORTAR AND USING A PESTLE, grind the garlic with the salt to a paste. Add the basil and parsley, and pound until they break down. Add the pine nuts and pound to amalgamate them with the other ingredients and make a chunky paste. Gradually work in the olive oil, then the Parmesan cheese and pepper. If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, you can use a small food processor.
Clockwise from top left: Brunoise (⅛ × ⅛ × ⅛), Concassée (small dice, ¼ × ¼ × ¼), Julienne (1/16 × 1/16 × 1 ½ to 2), Chop, Mince, Oblique
Clockwise from top left: Medium dice (⅓ × ⅓ × ⅓), Large dice (¾ × ¾ × ¾), Bâton (¼ × ¼ × 1 ½ to 2), Rough chop, Coarse chop, Alumette (matchstick, ⅛ × ⅛ × 1 ½ to 2)
Fontina Cheese Polenta
Makes about 7 cups
We serve this creamy polenta soft, but if you have any left over, or just want to try a different approach, spread it into a baking pan, cover with plastic wrap, and chill, then cut it into slices (or whatever shape you like). These can be either baked in a 400° oven (sprinkled with a little extra Parme-san cheese) or sautéed in a nonstick pan until golden brown, then served as a side dish or even as a first course with a mushroom ragoût or tomato sauce.
7 cups water
Pinch of salt
1 cup polenta flour (not instant)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
⅓ cup shredded fontina cheese
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
IN A LARGE, HEAVY SAUCEPAN, bring the water to a boil and add the salt. Very slowly, add the polenta in a thin stream while stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Keep the water at least at a simmer until all the polenta is added. Bring the polenta to a full boil, then decrease the heat to a simmer. (Be very careful at this stage, as the polenta is thick and hot and can burn you easily.) Simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring every 2 minutes. The polenta is done when each grain is soft.
Remove from the heat. Add the butter, Parmesan cheese, and fontina cheese. Mix well and season with salt and pepper. If you need to hold the polenta for serving, put it into a heat-resistant container and cover it with plastic wrap. Put the container in a pot and fill with enough hot water to come more than halfway up the container. Keep over very low heat.
Mashed Potatoes, Garlic Mashed Potatoes
Makes 4 cups
Once made, mashed potatoes can be kept warm before serving by putting them in a container that can sit in a pot of barely simmering water. If you have leftover mashed potatoes and you want to reheat them, we recommend using a microwave oven. You can also spread them thinly in an ovenproof sauté pan or baking dish, sprinkle a little cream on top, and place them in a hot oven for a few minutes, being careful not to let them brown.
2 pounds large russet potatoes, peeled and halved lengthwise
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
⅔ cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
CUT THE POTATOES CROSSWISE into 1-inch-thick pieces. (Don’t cut them too small, or they will absorb too much water.) Put them in a pot, add cold water to cover, and add a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, decrease the heat to a simmer, and cook until soft, about 10 minutes; drain. Return the potatoes to the pot and shake over medium heat for a few seconds to help the excess water evaporate. Add the cream and b
ring to a boil, then remove from the heat, add the butter, and stir. Transfer to an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Or, press the potatoes through a food mill or a potato ricer, or mash them in the pot with a potato masher.
FOR GARLIC MASHED POTATOES, peel and remove the hard stem from the bottom of 10 large garlic cloves and add to the water with the potatoes. Drain with the potatoes and follow the above recipe.
Veal Stock
Makes 6-7 cups
Our veal stock is not as heavy as some. We make it milder and less concentrated so that the flavors of the other ingredients with which it’s used can come through; a sauce made with stock should enhance a dish, not overwhelm it. Because it has a less assertive flavor, we’re also able to use this stock with fish dishes when we want to give them a richer flavor.
5 pounds veal bones, cut into 2-inch-long pieces
2 cups dry red wine
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, coarsely chopped
½ carrot, coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
½ bulb garlic, halved crosswise
1 cup water
3 bay leaves
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
3 fresh thyme sprigs
2 teaspoons salt
½ cup tomato paste
3 ripe tomatoes, halved
PREHEAT THE OVEN TO 400°.
Put the veal bones in a large roasting pan and roast until golden brown, about 30 minutes. Transfer the bones to a large stockpot. Add the wine to the roasting pan set over medium heat, and deglaze by stirring to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan, then add the liquid to the stockpot.
Heat the oil in a large sauté pan or skillet over high heat, add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic, and sauté until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Add the vegetables to the pot, deglaze the pan with the water, and add the liquid to the pot. Fill the pot with enough cold water to just cover the veal bones. Bring to a boil and skim off any foam that develops.
Add all the remaining ingredients, bring back to a boil, then decrease the heat to a simmer. Cook for at least 12 hours (at Terra, we cook the stock for 2 days, to develop the flavor even more). Keep adding hot water to maintain the water level, which you will need to do 5 to 6 times.
Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a smaller pot and cook over high heat until reduced to about 7 cups, about 1 hour. Transfer the stock to a smaller pan. Sit the pan in a bowl of ice water to cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Remove the layer of congealed fat on top. Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 1 month.
Chicken Stock
Makes 2 quarts
At a restaurant like Terra, there are various stocks simmering on the stove every day, and more than half the dishes we prepare are based on one or another of them. We encourage you to make your own stocks. Their flavor—especially in sauces that involve reduction—makes a real difference. This recipe can be doubled and freezes well. Use the cooked chicken for another purpose—preferably a dish with assertive flavors, such as Chinese chicken salad, since much of the flavor of the chicken will have cooked out.
5 pounds chicken bones
½ chicken (about 1½ pounds)
1 onion, coarsely chopped
½ carrot, coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
½ bulb garlic, halved crosswise
3 bay leaves
1½ teaspoons black peppercorns
2 fresh thyme sprigs
1 teaspoon salt
WASH THE BONES AND CHICKEN in cold running water, taking care to rinse out the body cavity well, and put them in a large stockpot. Fill the stockpot with enough cold water to just cover the chicken bones. Bring to a boil and skim off any foam that develops. Add the remaining ingredients, bring back to a boil, then decrease the heat to a simmer. Simmer for 3 to 4 hours, skimming as necessary at the beginning. The stock is ready when the bones are easy to break; this means all the essence of the chicken has come out into the water.
Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a smaller pot and cook over medium heat until reduced to 2 quarts. Transfer the stock to a smaller pan. Sit the pan in a bowl of ice water to cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Remove and discard the congealed layer of fat on top. Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 1 month.
Making a Second Stock
AT TERRA, WE MAKE WHAT IS REFERRED TO AS A SECOND STOCK (THE FRENCH CALL IT REMOULLAGE) FROM THE USED CHICKEN BONES. TO DO THIS, RETURN THE CHICKEN BONES AND CHICKEN TO THE POT AND ADD HOT WATER TO JUST BARELY COVER. BRING TO A BOIL, THEN REDUCE TO A SIMMER AND COOK FOR 5 MINUTES. THEN STRAIN AS BEFORE. THE STOCK WILL BE CLOUDY AND HAVE MORE OF A GELATINOUS CHARACTERISTIC THAN THE FIRST STOCK. IT CAN BE USED IN STEWS OR IN MOST RECIPES THAT DO NOT NEED THE CLARITY OF A FIRST STOCK. MOSTLY, THOUGH, WE USE IT INSTEAD OF WATER TO MAKE OTHER STOCKS LIKE LAMB, VEAL, LOBSTER, OR SHRIMP, AS IT HELPS MAKE A RICHER STOCK RATHER THAN STARTING WITH WATER.
Brown Chicken Stock
Makes 6 cups
5 pounds chicken bones
½ chicken (about 1½ pounds)
1 cup dry red wine
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, coarsely chopped
½ carrot, coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
½ bulb garlic, halved crosswise
1 cup water
3 bay leaves
1½ teaspoons black peppercorns
3 fresh thyme sprigs
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup tomato paste
Preheat the oven to 400°.
WASH THE BONES AND CHICKEN in cold running water, taking care to rinse out the body cavity well, and put them in a large roasting pan. Roast until a deep golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the vegetable oil in a large sauté pan or skillet over high heat until hot, add the vegetables and garlic, and sauté until golden brown. Transfer to a large stockpot. Add the 1 cup water to the sauté pan and stir to remove any brown bits from the pan, then add the liquid to the stockpot. Transfer the roasted bones and chicken to the stockpot. Add the wine to the roasting pan set over medium heat and stir to deglaze the pan. Add the liquid to the stockpot.
Fill the stockpot with enough cold water to just cover the top of the chicken bones. Bring to a boil and skim off any foam that develops. Add the remaining ingredients, bring back to a boil, then decrease the heat to a simmer. Simmer for 3 to 4 hours, skimming as necessary at the beginning. The stock is ready when the bones are easy to break; this means all the essence of the chicken has come out into the water.
Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a smaller pot and cook over medium heat until reduced to 7 cups. Transfer the stock to a smaller pan or a container with a lid. Sit the pan in a bowl of ice water to cool, then cover and refrigerate over-night. Remove and discard the congealed fat on the surface. Keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 1 month.
Duck stock: Replace the ½ chicken and chicken bones in the master recipe with duck bones.
Game stock: Replace the ½ chicken and chicken bones in the master recipe with game-bird bones, such as quail, squib, or pheasant.
Lobster Stock
Makes 4 cups
This stock has a wonderfully rich flavor that makes sauces and soups really special. You can make it from the leftover shells of lobsters you’ve already eaten, or, if you need it for the lobster dish you’re preparing, you can par-cook the lobsters, remove the meat from the shells and refrigerate it until you need it, then use the shells to make the stock. To crush lobster shells without making a mess, first drain any liquid from them, then wrap them in a kitchen towel and place the towel in a plastic bag. Squeeze all the air out of the bag, seal the opening, grab a hammer or mallet, and have at it.
¼ cup olive oil
3 cloves garlic, smashed
½ onion, slice
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½ carrot, sliced
Heads, legs, and shells (gills removed) of 2 (1- to 1¼-pound) lobsters, crushed
½ teaspoon fennel seed
2 tablespoons Cognac
½ cup dry white wine
6 cups chicken stock
Lobster juice from 2 lobsters see Cooking and Shelling Lobster
1 cup tomato puree
1 tablespoon tomato paste
Tomalley from 2 lobsters see Cooking and Shelling Lobster
IN A LARGE SAUCEPAN, heat the olive oil and garlic over medium heat and sauté the garlic until lightly browned. Add the onion and carrot, and sauté until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain off any liquid that has accumulated at the bottom of the bowl from the lobster heads, legs, and shells, and add it to the lobster juice. Increase the heat to high and add the lobster heads, legs, shells, and fennel seed. Sauté, stirring, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add the Cognac and carefully light it with a long-handled match. When the flames subside, add the wine and bring it to a boil. Add the chicken stock, lobster juice, tomato puree, and tomato paste. Bring to a boil and skim once to remove any foam that develops, trying not to remove any of the oil on the surface (it holds a lot of the flavor). Simmer for 45 minutes, then add the lobster tomalley. Bring back to a boil, remove from the heat, and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Rinse the pot and return the stock to the pot. Cook over medium-high heat until reduced to 4 cups, about 1 hour. Let cool and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 1 month.
Shrimp stock: Replace the lobster shells in the above recipe with about 1 pound of shrimp heads and shells. Delete the tomalley and lobster juice.