Walking the Nile
Page 32
Lake Victoria, ref1 passim
first exploitation of, for travel and industry, ref1
jagged islands in, ref1
and Nile Perch, ref1
Owen Falls Dam, ref1
shell-fish miners at, ref1
Speke and Grant discover, ref1
and Speke’s source-of-Nile claim, ref1
thick forests fringing, ref1, ref2
Tutsi corpses in, ref1
Lakes State, ref1, ref2
Leila (yoga teacher), ref1
‘Levison Tembula’ rap, ref1
Libya, and second Sudanese Civil War, ref1
Livingstone, Dr David, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
and 1864 Nile debate, ref1
Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA), ref1
LRA, see Lord’s Resistance Army
Luxor, ref1, ref2
massacre in, ref1
Temple of, ref1
Mabira Forest, ref1
Machar, Dr Riek, ref1, ref2
Madi people, ref1, ref2
author and Boston become part of, ref1
Mahir, Mazar, ref1, ref2, ref3
Mahir, Moez:
annoyance of, over Meroe Dam, ref1
artist-trained, ref1
author engages, ref1
author introduced to, ref1
and author’s birthday, ref1
Bayuda Desert history explained by, ref1
and bicycles, ref1
campaigning of, ref1
departure of, ref1
description of, ref1, ref2
desert coral finds of, ref1
desert stoicism of, ref1
gold’s availability explained by, ref1
and haboob, ref1
Kerma pottery find of, ref1
love of country expressed by, ref1
and Meroe pyramids, ref1, ref2
reunited with brother and mother, ref1
and rock carvings, ref1
security alert of, ref1
volcanoes explained by, ref1
Malakal, ref1, ref2
Mallory, George, ref1
Mama Fina, ref1, ref2
Martin (porter), ref1
Boston’s religious conversations with, ref1, ref2
Masindi, ref1
rape and child abduction in, ref1
Matthews, W., ref1
Mau Mau, ref1
Maureen (ranger), ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
Mbutu Sese Seko, ref1, ref2
Memphis, temple at, ref1
Men’s Journal, ref1
Meredith, Pete, ref1, ref2, ref3
Meroe, ref1
Meroe Dam, ref1, ref2, ref3
Miller, Ken, ref1
Min, ref1
Minkaman, ref1
Mokattam, ref1
monkeys:
colobus, ref1, ref2
vervets, ref1; see also Florence
Morsi, Mohammed, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6
see also Egypt
Moses (in Kasansero), ref1
Moses (ranger), ref1, ref2
and Power’s hyperthermia attack, ref1
Mostafa Gen. Yousry, ref1
Mubarak, Hosni, ref1, ref2
headquarters of, ref1
Mugisha, Matthias, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5
on AIDS, ref1
Mundari, ref1
Murchison Falls National Park, ref1
dwindling wildlife numbers in, ref1
Murchison, Sir Roderick, ref1, ref2
Museveni, Yoweri, ref1
Muslim Brotherhood, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
Napata, ref1
Nefertari, Queen, ref1
Nero, Emperor, ref1, ref2
New Vision, ref1, ref2
Ngumbirwa, King, ref1
Nile:
and Aswan High Dam, see Aswan High Dam
as confluence, ref1
and deforestation, ref1
Delta, ref1
largest manmade influence on, ref1; see also Aswan High Dam
Sai Island in, ref1
seismic testing along, ref1
six cataracts of, ref1
source of:
Baker’s claim for, ref1
and Fountain of the Four Rivers, ref1
Nyungwe Forest declared to be, ref1
speculation surrounding, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
Speke’s claim for, ref1
see also Blue Nile; White Nile
Nile Perch, ref1
Nile River Explorers (NRE), ref1
Nile River Festival, ref1
‘Nile Special’ (rapid), ref1, ref2
Nilotic Lwo, ref1
Nimule, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
Nimule National Park, ref1, ref2, ref3
Nub Kush, ref1
Nuba mountains, ref1, ref2
Nubia, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5
Napata, ref1
Nubian Front, ref1
Nyakumba, ref1
Nyanuba, Mwalimu Ndoole, ref1
Nyere, Julius, ref1, ref2
Nymanzi, ref1
Nyungwe Forest, ref1, ref2
Kandt declares source of Nile, ref1
Nzadi, ref1
Obote, Milton, ref1
Omdurman, ref1, ref2
Battle of, ref1, ref2
Souq al-Muwelih, ref1, ref2
Osama (hunter), ref1
Owen Falls Dam, ref1
Owino market, ref1
Patrick (of Conservation Fund), ref1
Pawar, ref1
Power, Matt, ref1 passim, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6, ref7, ref8
hyperthermia suffered by, ref1
and death, ref1
return of body of, ref1
Pyramids, ref1, ref2
Rabaa Massacre, ref1
Rafaj Hill, ref1
Ramadan, ref1, ref2
Ramesses II, ref1, ref2
Rashid, ref1
Rashid/Rosetta, ref1
Red Cross, ref1, ref2
Red Pepper, ref1, ref2
Red Sea resorts, ref1
Renk, ref1
Ripon Falls, ref1, ref2, ref3
Roosevelt, Franklin, ref1
Rosetta Stone, ref1
Royal Geographical Society (RGS), ref1, ref2, ref3
Rusumo Falls, ref1
Rwanda:
civil war in, ref1
genocide in, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4; see also Genocide Memorial Centre, Rwanda
imprisoned agents of, ref1
and Rusumo Falls, ref1
Gisovu, ref1
prison in, ref1
heavy policing in, ref1
and human rights, ref1
Kigali, ref1, ref2 passim
boom-town status of, ref1
as centre of genocide, ref1, ref2
Genocide Memorial Centre in, ref1
Kandt founds, ref1
Natural History Museum in, ref1
umuganda custom in, ref1
land use in, ref1
Nyungwe Forest, ref1, ref2
Kandt declares source of Nile, ref1
Nzadi, ref1
Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF), ref1, ref2
Sahara:
and Bayuda Desert, see Bayuda Desert
coral found in, ref1
Eastern, ref1
ocean and savannah past of, ref1
thunderstorm in, ref1
Salaah (driver), ref1
Salafism, ref1
Seguya, Col. Andrew, ref1
seismic testing, ref1
Selim (porter), ref1, ref2
Severino (ranger), ref1 passim
Sheffield Steel, ref1
Shendi, ref1
Silk Road, ref1
Simon (ranger), ref1
Siraje (porter), ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5 passim, ref1
Sirillo (Mundari tribesman), ref1
Sisi, Abdel Fattah el-, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
see also Egypt
slavery, ref1, ref2
smuggling, ref1, ref2<
br />
Somalia, Burton and Speke in, ref1
Sorry, ref1
Souq al-Muwelih, ref1, ref2
South Sudan:
Ayod, ref1
Bentiu, ref1, ref2, ref3
Bor, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
conflict in, ref1, ref2
gunfire-raked cathedral in, ref1
South Sudan Hotel, ref1, ref2, ref3
UN compound in, ref1, ref2, ref3
conflict in, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6, ref7
refugees from, ref1, ref2
ethnic and cultural mix in, ref1
independence gained by, ref1
Jonglei State, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
Juba, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
arrest in, ref1
Bedouin Lodge, ref1, ref2, ref3
conflict in, ref1, ref2
Jebel, ref1
Rafaj Hill, ref1
Lakes State, ref1, ref2
Malakal, ref1, ref2
Minkaman, ref1
Mundari tribe in, ref1
Nimule, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
Nuer people of, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
Renk, ref1
secret police in, ref1
Sudd, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6
Terekeka, ref1
Unity, ref1
Unity State, ref1, ref2
Upper Nile State, ref1
see also Sudan People’s Liberation Army; Sudan, Republic of
Speke (camel), ref1, ref2
on finding water, ref1
and need for water, ref1
Speke, John Hanning, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6
camel named after, ref1
death of, ref1
discovery of Nile’s source claimed by, ref1
and 1864 Nile debate, ref1
in Somalia, ref1
Sphinx, ref1, ref2
SPLA (Sudan People’s Liberation Army), ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5
see also South Sudan
Stafford, Ed, ref1
Stanley, Henry Morton, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
Stoke-on-Trent Ceramic, ref1
Sudan People’s Liberation Army (SPLA), ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5
see also South Sudan
Sudan, Republic of:
Atbarah, ref1
author’s previous visit to, ref1
Bayuda Desert, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
haboob in, ref1
thunderstorm in, ref1
volcanoes in, ref1
water found in, ref1
Darfur, ref1
Dongola, ref1
Eastern Sahara, ref1
hospitality extended in, examples of, ref1
and human rights, ref1
Jebel Barkal mountain, ref1
Kadabas, ref1
Karima, ref1
Kerma, ref1
Kerreri, ref1
Khartoum, ref1, ref2
Acropole Hotel in, ref1, ref2
cultural diversity in, ref1
modern nature of, ref1
origins of, ref1
siege of, ref1, ref2, ref3
and slave trade, ref1
Korti, ref1
Kosti, ref1
Meroe, ref1
Meroe Dam, ref1, ref2, ref3
Nuba mountains, ref1, ref2
Omdurman, ref1, ref2
Battle of, ref1, ref2
Souq al-Muwelih, ref1, ref2
Shendi, ref1
Sorry, ref1
stamp left on, by British, ref1
Wadi Halfa, ref1, ref2, ref3
party’s welcome in, ref1
see also South Sudan
Sudan, South, see South Sudan
Sudanese Civil Wars:
first, ref1
second, ref1, ref2
Sudd, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6
Tahrir Square, ref1
Tanganyika, ref1
Zanzibar joins, to create Tanzania, ref1
Tanganyika African National Union, ref1
Tanganyika Ground Nut Scheme, ref1
Tanzania:
chequered history of, ref1
creation of, ref1
Kagera region, ref1
Kagera river, ref1, ref2, ref3
Kimisi Game Reserve, ref1
Kiswahili only language to be spoken in, ref1
languages banned in, ref1
Nyere’s reforms in, ref1
Terekeka, ref1
Thebes, ref1
Trowbridge, R.A., ref1
‘Turbo’ (Mahmood Ezzeldin), ref1, ref2 passim, ref1, ref2, ref3
Tutsis, and Rwandan genocide, see Rwanda: genocide in
Uganda:
Adjumani, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4
and AIDS:
first reported case of, ref1
rapid spread of, ref1
Ajai Wildlife Reserve, ref1
Amin and Obote cripple economy of, ref1
Amin’s rule in, see Amin, Idi
Arua, ref1, ref2
Boston sings praises of, ref1
Buwama, ref1
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, ref1
civil war in, ref1
colonial times of, fondness for, ref1
elephant numbers in, ref1
English as first language of, ref1
Entebbe, ref1
first democratic elections in, ref1
Jinja, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5
Nile River Festival in, ref1
Ripon Falls, ref1, ref2, ref3
Kabaka Yekka in, ref1
Kampala:
Ahmadiyya Central Mosque, ref1
AIDS reaches, ref1
arrival in, ref1
children sold to witches in, ref1
description of, ref1
ethnic and cultural mix in, ref1
Hotel Le Bougainviller, ref1
Nakasero Market in, ref1
Owino market in, ref1
urban sprawl of, ref1
Karuma, ref1
Kasansero, ref1, ref2
and AIDS, ref1, ref2
Kiga, ref1
Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA) in, ref1
Masindi, ref1
rape and child abduction in, ref1
Murchison Falls National Park, ref1, ref2
dwindling wildlife numbers in, ref1
Falls in, ref1
and Nile Perch, ref1
Nyakumba, ref1
Nymanzi, ref1
Pawar, ref1
People’s Congress (UPC) in, ref1
and second Sudanese Civil War, ref1
and seismic testing, ref1
several kingdoms exist in, ref1
shadowy security forces of, ref1
South Sudan refugees in, ref1
troops sent to South Sudan by, ref1
unemployment rife in, ref1
wooden bicycles in, ref1
Uganda Conservation Fund, ref1
Uganda People’s Congress (UPC), ref1
Uganda Wildlife Authority, ref1
Ugandan Civil Aviation Authority, ref1
Ugandan Wildlife Education Centre, ref1
umuganda, ref1
United States of America, troops sent to South Sudan by, ref1
Unity, ref1
Unity State, ref1
Valley of the Kings, ref1
Vantini, Giovanni, ref1
Vianey (porter), ref1, ref2, ref3
Victoria, Queen, ref1
Vidin, ref1
Wadi Halfa, ref1, ref2, ref3
party’s welcome in, ref1
Waterworks of Birmingham, ref1
White Nile, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6, ref7
see also Nile
William (at Heritage Lodge), ref1
Yasser (Cairo Copt), ref1
Zamalek, ref1
Zanzibar, Tanganyika joins, to create Tanzania, ref1
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Levison Wood is a writer and explorer. Having travelled in over 80 countries,
he documents the journeys of tribal peoples and minority groups around the world. He served as an officer in the British Army Parachute Regiment, with operational experience in Afghanistan and training missions around the world. His expeditions have taken him from the deserts of North Africa, to the mountains of Central Asia and the jungles of South America. He is a co-founder of Secret Compass, has led pioneering treks across Madagascar and Iraq, and is the first man to attempt to walk the length of the Nile. Levison is a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society and International Fellow of the Explorers Club. He was born in Staffordshire in 1982 and educated at the University of Nottingham and the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
1. The furthest source of the Nile in the Nyungwe Forest in Rwanda
2. Rwanda, land of a thousand hills
3. The Nyabarongo River cuts a swathe through Rwanda. The source of the Nile remains contested
4. Photographs of the victims of the Rwandan genocide fill the Kigali genocide museum
5. Gisovu Prison. A million people were killed during a 100 day period in 1994
6. Children shelter from rain in a Rwandan village. Outside of Kigali the country remains desperately impoverished
7. Ndoole Boston walked with me as guide and translator from December 2013 until March 2014
8. With Boston resting in Tanzania
9. The remains of Christmas lunch alongside Lake Bisongu in Tanzania
10. Lake Bisongu in the wild bandit country of Kagera, north-west Tanzania
11. Much of the journey was spent wild camping
12. The remains of a 6 metre Python killed by villagers on the shores of Lake Victoria after it ate a prized goat
13. Camping near to villages in Uganda always invited a curious crowd
14. Water, not always accessible from the Nile due to stagnant swamps, is a precious commodity in rural Uganda. People travel huge distances to find a well
15. A typical Ugandan village scene