Lonely Planet Indonesia
Page 37
The meals served here are as tasty as the food is plentiful. Price includes all meals and a free ration of two beers per day.
Bobby’s CampSURF CAMP$$$
(%bookings in Bali 036-175 5588; www.grajagan.com; 3-night packages US$640; aiW)
Right opposite the waves, this attractive camp has three standards of bungalow in shady grounds with a restaurant and bar. It has beach volleyball, ping-pong, pool tables, and boat and fishing trips can be arranged. Set back from the beach, in the jungle, the best nests are the two-storey teak cottages stilted in the trees.
Management is based in Kuta, Bali. Packages include transfers from Bali, grog and grub.
8Information
The usual park entry is by road, via the village of Pasar Anyar, which has a large national park office (%033-341 0857) and interpretive centre. Stop by to check on park accommodation and campsites; alternatively, check with the head office in Banyuwangi. You can also just show up cold, though you should book in with one of the surf camps if you intend to spend the night. The actual gateway to the park is 10km south along a bad road at Rowobendo where you need to pay your admission fee (10,000Rp per car, 150,000Rp per person). From here it's 2.5km to Trianggulasi.
8Getting There & Away
Alas Purwo is a pain to get to by public transport. The best way here is to hire a motorbike or car in Banyuwangi; the access roads are poor but usually doable.
By bus, you need to get to Brawijaya bus terminal in Banyuwangi from where there are buses to Kalipahit (15,000Rp, 1½ hours). Then take an ojek for around 80,000Rp to the park office in Pasar Anyar to check on accommodation, before pushing on to the park. The 12km road from Pasar Anyar to Trianggulasi is badly potholed but is flat and negotiable by car.
Banyuwangi
%0333 / Pop 115,000
Java’s land’s end is a pleasant, growing city, home to a large amount of Osig people, whose roots reach back centuries in southeast Java. Most travellers simply pass through on their way to or from Bali by ferry, but the city does make a reasonable and comfortable base to explore the Ijen region and other national parks along the east coast. It's worthy of a night or two.
Point of clarification: the ferry port for Bali, the bus terminal and the train station are all some 8km north of town in Ketapang, though all transport states ‘Banyuwangi’ as their destination.
1Sights
Pulau TabuhanBEACH
A droplet of creamy white sand, topped with a tuft of scrub, this island jewel set offshore from Java, nearly halfway to Bali, is surrounded by a ring of turquoise shallows with a deep blue drop-off about 50m from shore. You'll see bait balls, schools of tropical fish and decent coral structure. The water is aquarium clear, and from the beach the volcanoes and mountains from Java and Bali are spread out in all directions.
Though the winds can rip (there's a reason an annual kite-surf contest is held here), it's possible to camp. If you do, you're likely to have the place to yourself. To get here, take a taxi or ojek to the Rumah Apung port, north of the ferry terminal, and hire a boat from there. It's 400,000Rp to 500,000Rp round trip.
Kongco Tan Hu Cin Jin Chinese TempleCHINESE TEMPLE
(Jl Ikam Gurani 54)
One of the few sights in Banyuwangi is the Kongco Tan Hu Cin Jin Chinese temple, built in 1784. It’s well worth a peek.
Blambangan MuseumMUSEUM
(Jl A Yani; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri)
This small museum is devoted to culture from the area with batik and traditional costumes, ceramics and curios.
zFestivals & Events
Banyuwangyi FestivalCULTURAL
The Banyuwangyi Festival is a two-month-long series of music, arts, culture and sporting events organised by the stellar tourist office, and held on weekends in August and September. The Jazz Festival is one such event; it's held at the Jiwa Jawa amphiteatre on the slopes of Ijen.
Another standout is the magnificent kite-surf contest, the Tabuhan Island Pro (www.tabuhanislandpro.com), held on Tabuhan Island in late August.
Head to the local tourist office for details and transport information to any of the events.
4Sleeping & Eating
For cheap eats, there are warungs on the corner of Jl MT Haryono and Jl Wahid Haysim.
Hotel Ketapang IndahHOTEL$$
(%0333-422280; www.ketapangindahhotel.com; Jl Gatot Subroto; d from 600,000Rp; aWs)
This lovely hotel makes a peaceful place to stay. Its huge, well-kept rooms and traditional-style cottages are dotted around a sprawling garden, shaded with coconut palms and extending to the sea. The 18m pool is big enough for laps, though the restaurant is fair at best. It’s 2km south of the ferry terminal.
oBangsring BreezeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%0813 5869 0800; www.bangsringbreeze.com; Jl Raya Situbondo Km17 ; r from 1,055,000Rp; aWs)
Set north of the city and just north of the ferry port, this is a boutique hotel in every respect. Each of the five rooms has been individually and tastefully designed – think high ceilings, wood floors, throw rugs, wood furnishings, flat-screens and fine art.
There is a gorgeous pool overlooking the sea and Bali's Menjangan island beyond, and a spectacular volcano rising behind the property. It's set up a hill from the beach down a little gang, and absolutely worth a night or two. It's a great base to explore both Menjangan or Ijen, and staff can get you down to Sukamade and Alas Purwo National Park too.
Ikan Bakar PesonaSEAFOOD$
(Jl Sudarso 147; dishes 20,000-50,000Rp; h1-10pm)
A classic Indonesian fish house where the tableclothes are sealed in plastic to easily wipe down the Makassar-style shrapnel after a serious feast. Famous for 10 flavours of crab (get yours Padang style), it also does grilled fish six different ways. Prices are fair and the food is delicious.
8Information
Alas Purwo National Park Head OfficePARK OFFICE
(%0333-428675; Jl Brawijawa; h7.30am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri)
Two kilometres south of the town centre.
Banyuwangi Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%0333-424172; Jl Ahmad Yani 78; h7am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri)
Staff are helpful at this office. They speak Dutch and some English, and can organise tours.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Banyuwangi's tiny Blimbingsari airport is 9km south of the centre. Garuda (www.garuda-indonesia.com) and Wings (www.lionair.co.id) both connect the city daily with Surabaya and Denpasar from 333,000Rp. There's no public transport to the airport; a taxi will cost around 50,000Rp.
Boat
Ferries depart around the clock for Gilimanuk in Bali (every 45 minutes, one hour). The ferry costs 7500Rp for passengers, 25,000Rp for a motorbike and 148,000 for a car (including four passengers). Through-buses between Bali and Java include the fare in the bus ticket. Pelni ships no longer call at Banyuwangi.
Bus
Banyuwangi has two bus terminals. The Sri Tanjung terminal is 3km north of Ketapang ferry terminal, 11km from the centre. Buses from here head along the north coast road to Baluran (10,000Rp, one hour), Probolinggo (normal/patas 40,000/50,000Rp, five hours) and Surabaya (46,000/66,000Rp, seven hours). Buses also go right through to Yogyakarta (patas 150,000Rp, 15 hours) and Denpasar (from 70,000Rp, five hours including the ferry trip). Brawijaya terminal (also known as Karang Ente), 4km south of town, covers buses along the southern highway to Kalibaru (22,000Rp, two hours) and Jember (27,000Rp, three hours).
Train
The main Banyuwangi train station is just a few hundred metres north of the ferry terminal. The express Mutiara Timur leaves at 8am and 9.45pm for Probolinggo (economy/business/executive from 60,000/105,000/140,000Rp, five hours) and Surabaya (130,000Rp, seven hours).
Baluran National Park
Baluran National Park once harboured a diverse range of ecosystems in a 250-sq-km chunk of northeastern Java, though lately development has severely impacted the park. Extensive grasslands still cover parts of the park, providing grazing for banteng (
wild cattle), kijang (deer) and water buffalo, and the savannah-like terrain is reminiscent of East Africa.
1Sights & Activities
Baluran is home to hundreds of Timor deer and banteng, plus sambar deer, muntjac deer, two species of monkey and wild boars. Visit in July and August and you might see male Timor deer rutting for breeding rights.
Birdlife is also excellent, with green peafowl, red and green jungle fowl, hornbills, white-bellied woodpeckers and bee-eaters all easy to spot.
Pantai BamaBEACH
Fringed by mangroves, the sandy cove of Bama is 4km north of Bekol. It’s a popular weekend retreat for local families, but usually peaceful at other times. Canoes (40,000Rp) and snorkelling gear (60,000Rp) can be hired. Watch out for the cheeky long-tailed macaques here, which have been known to pinch food.
BekolHIKING
From the PHKA office on the highway, it's 14km down a flat gravel track to Bekol. The friendly rangers here look after a couple of lodges and can act as guides (150,000Rp per half-day). You don't need a guide to hike along a well-maintained trail to Pantai Bama (1½ hours), which follows a riverbank where deer are common.
On the hill above the guesthouses at Bekol there is a viewing tower that provides a panoramic view over a 300-hectare clearing. Banteng and deer can be seen here, and wild dogs can sometimes be seen hunting, usually in the early morning.
4Sleeping & Eating
Most visitors tend to day-trip, so accommodation is often available, but it pays to book ahead in the peak June-to-August holiday period.
BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(s 125,000Rp, d 175,000-225,000Rp)
Pantai Bama is the preferred location as you're right on the beach and it's better set up for visitors. There is accommodation available in concrete bungalows and a warung for cheap meals (mains 900Rp to 22,000Rp) and drinks. The rooms are functional.
PesanggrahanGUESTHOUSE$
(%0333-461936; per person 75,000-150,000Rp)
At Bekol, this guesthouse has basic rooms in either concrete or wooden houses and simple bungalows to one side. The accommodation is basic, and you should bring your own mosquito net if you have one. You'll find a kitchen for guests or you can buy packet noodles and drinks.
Rosa’s EcolodgeGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0333-845 3005; www.rosasecolodge.com; Ds Sidomulyo RT 03/03; r incl breakfast 450,000Rp; ai)
Rosa's spacious rooms were renovated in 2015 with private bathrooms and front porches. Rosa's is geared towards guests who join its pricey Baluran tours, and priority is given to its groups during busy times. It’s on the northern edge of the park in the village of Sumberwaru. Buffet-style meals of tasty Javanese food are served here.
8Information
You’ll find the PHKA office (%0333-461650, 0333-461936; h8am-4pm) on the coastal highway in the village of Wonorejo, between Surabaya and Banyuwangi. Guides can be booked for around 250,000Rp per day. Entrance costs 105,000Rp and an extra 10,000Rp is charged for a car.
Baluran can be visited at any time of the year, but the dry season (June to November) is usually the best time because the animals congregate near the waterholes at Bekol and Bama.
8Getting There & Away
A regular stream of Surabaya–Banyuwangi buses all pass right by the almost-hidden park entrance. From Banyuwangi it’s a one-hour journey (10,000Rp). Coming from the west, Baluran is four hours from Probolinggo. PHKA rangers at the entrance can arrange an ojek (around 40,000Rp) to take you the next 12km to Bekol; the road is in pretty good shape and should be passable by most cars. A 4WD is not necessary.
Bali
Kuta & Legian
Seminyak & Kerobokan
Canggu & Around
Bukit Peninsula
Sanur
Denpasar
Nusa Lembongan
Nusa Ceningan
Nusa Penida
South of Ubud
North of Ubud
Gianyar
Bangli
Semarapura (Klungkung)
Sidemen Road
Pura Besakih
Rendang to Amlapura Road
Gunung Agung
Kusamba to Padangbai
Padangbai
Padangbai to Candidasa
Tenganan
Candidasa
Candidasa to Amlapura
Amlapura
Tirta Gangga
Amed & the Far East Coast
Tulamben
Gunung Batur
Around Gunung Batur
Around Danau Batur
Danau Bratan
Gunung Batukau Area
Singaraja
Lovina
West of Lovina
Pemuteran
Bali Barat National Park
Gilimanuk
Pura Tanah Lot
Tabanan
Balian Beach
Jembrana Coast
Bali
Pop 4.2 million
Why Go?
Impossibly green rice terraces, pounding surf, enchanting Hindu temple ceremonies, mesmerising dance performances, ribbons of beaches and truly charming people: there are as many images of Bali as there are flowers on the island's ubiquitous frangipani trees.
This small island looms large for any visit to Indonesia, and no other place is more visitor-friendly. Hotels range from surfer dives to lavish retreats in the lush mountains. You can dine on local foods bursting with flavours fresh from the markets or let world-class chefs take you on a global culinary journey. From a cold Bintang beer at sunset to an epic night of clubbing, your social whirl is limited only by your fortitude.
Small in size doesn’t mean homogenous: manic Kuta segues into glitzy Seminyak; the artistic swirl of Ubud is a counterpoint to misty hikes amid volcanoes; and mellow beach towns such as Bingin, Amed and Pemuteran lie dotted along the coast.
When to Go
AJul & Aug High season is Bali's busiest and buzziest time. Book ahead for rooms.
AMay, Jun & Sep Often the best weather: slightly cooler and drier; less crowded.
AJan–Apr, Oct & Nov Low season makes spontaneous travel easy. Things go quiet for the Nyepi holiday.
Best Places to Eat
A Sardine
A Mama San
A Cashew Tree
A Locavore
A Tékor Bali
Best Places to Stay
A Temple Lodge
A Bambu Indah
A Samanvaya
A Meditasi
A Sedasa
Bali Highlights
1 Shopping by day and hitting the hot-spots by night in Seminyak, Kerobokan and Canggu.
2 Discovering the beautiful string of hidden beaches in and around Bingin, where the surfing is also fab.
3 Revelling in Bali’s elaborate cultural life in Ubud, where you can enjoy your choice of the island's iconic dance and gamelan performances nightly.
4 Zipping along the nontouristy Sidemen road through verdant scenery of majestic rice fields and valleys.
5 Feeling the mist from waterfalls while hiking the lush region around Munduk.
6 Plunging into the hedonistic nightlife of Kuta.
7 Diving off Nusa Lembongan to see manta rays and mola mola (sunfish), or kick back and enjoying island life.
History
It’s certain that Bali has been populated since early prehistoric times, but the oldest human artefacts found are 3000-year-old stone tools and earthenware vessels from Cekik. Not much is known of Bali during the period when Indian traders brought Hinduism to the Indonesian archipelago; the earliest written records are stone inscriptions dating from around the 9th century. By that time, rice was being grown under the complex irrigation system known as subak, and there were precursors of the religious and cultural traditions that can be traced to the present day.
Hindu Influence
Hindu Java began to spread its influence into Bali during the reign of King Airlangga, from 1019 to 1042. At the age of 16, Airlangga fled into the forests of western Java when h
is uncle lost the throne. He gradually gained support, won back the kingdom once ruled by his uncle and went on to become one of Java’s greatest kings. Airlangga’s mother had moved to Bali and remarried shortly after his birth, so when he gained the throne there was an immediate link between Java and Bali. At this time, the courtly Javanese language known as Kawi came into use among the royalty of Bali, and the stunning rock-cut memorials seen at Gunung Kawi near Tampaksiring are a clear architectural link between Bali and 11th-century Java.
After Airlangga’s death, Bali retained its semi-independent status until Kertanegara became king of the Singasari dynasty in Java two centuries later. Kertanegara conquered Bali in 1284, but his power lasted only eight years until he was murdered and his kingdom collapsed. With Java in turmoil, Bali regained its autonomy and the Pejeng dynasty, centred near modern-day Ubud, rose to great power. In 1343 Gajah Mada, the legendary chief minister of the Majapahit kingdom, defeated the Pejeng king Dalem Bedaulu and brought Bali back under Javanese influence.
Although Gajah Mada brought much of the Indonesian archipelago under Majapahit control, Bali was the furthest extent of its power. Here the ‘capital’ moved to Gelgel, near modern-day Semarapura (Klungkung), around the late 14th century, and for the next two centuries this was the base for the ‘king of Bali’, the Dewa Agung.