2Activities
Seminyak's and Kerobokan's spas are among the best in Bali, and offer a huge range of treatments and therapies.
Spas
oJari MenariSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736740; www.jarimenari.com; Jl Raya Basangkasa 47; sessions from 385,000Rp; h9am-9pm)
Jari Menari is true to its name, which means ‘dancing fingers’: your body will be one happy dance floor. The all-male staff use massage techniques that emphasise rhythm. You can book online, too.
Sundari Day SpaSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-735073; www.sundari-dayspa.com; Jl Petitenget 7; massages from 200,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
This lovely spa strives to offer the services of a five-star resort without the high prices. The massage oils and other potions are organic, and there's a full menu of therapies and treatments on offer.
Amo Beauty SpaSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 7943; www.amospa.com; 100 Jl Petitenget; massages from 200,000Rp; h9am-9pm)
With some of Asia’s top models lounging about it feels like you’ve stumbled into a Vogue shoot. In addition to massages, services range from haircare to pedicures and unisex waxing. Book ahead.
PranaSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730840; www.pranaspabali.com; Jl Kunti 118X; massages from 450,000Rp; h9am-10pm)
A palatial Moorish fantasy that is easily the most lavishly decorated spa in Bali, Prana offers everything from basic hour-long massages to facials and all manner of beauty treatments.
Other Activities
Sate BaliCOOKING COURSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736734; Jl Kayu Aya 22; courses from 375,000Rp; h9.30am-1.30pm)
Restaurant Sate Bali runs this excellent Balinese cooking course. Students learn to prepare Balinese spices and sambals, which are then used to flavour duck, fish and pork dishes.
Jiwa Bikram YogaYOGA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-841 3689; www.jiwabikramyogabali.com; Jl Petitenget 78; classes from 180,000Rp; h9am-8pm)
In a convenient location, this no-frills place offers several different types of yoga, including bikram, hot flow and yin.
4Sleeping
Seminyak has a wide range of accommodation, from world-class resorts to humble hotels hidden down backstreets.
Kerobokan and Seminyak are villa country, with walled developments running north from Seminyak and scattering among the rice fields.(Click here)
Seminyak
Ned's Hide-AwayGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731270; [email protected]; Gang Bima 3; r with fan/air-con from 180,000/300,000Rp; aW)
While its standards have slipped in recent times, Ned's remains a good budget choice with its mix of basic and more plush rooms. Wi-fi is only available in the reception area.
Raja GardensGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730494; [email protected]; off Jl Camplung Tanduk; r fan/air-con from 400,000/600,000Rp; aWs)
Here since 1980, this old-school guesthouse has spacious, grassy grounds with fruit trees and a quiet spot located almost on the beach. The eight rooms are fairly basic but there are open-air bathrooms and plenty of potted plants. The pool is a nice spot to lounge by, and it's generally a mellow place popular with youngish couples.
Villa KarisaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-739395; www.villakarisabali.com; Jl Drupadi 100X; r US$89-200; aWs)
It's like visiting the gracious friends in Bali you wish you had. Ideally located on a little gang off busy Jl Drupadi, this large villa-style inn has a row of rooms filled with antiques and many comforts. Guests gather in the common room or around the luxurious 12m pool. Enjoy Javanese antique style in the Shiva room.
oOberoiHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730361; www.oberoihotels.com; Jl Kayu Aya; r incl breakfast from US$320; aiWs)
The beautifully understated Oberoi has been a refined Balinese-style beachside retreat since 1971. All accommodation options have private verandas, and as you move up in price, additional features include walled villas, ocean views and private pools. From the cafe that overlooks the almost-private sweep of beach to the numerous luxuries, this is a place to spoil yourself.
Luna2 StudiotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730402; www.luna2.com; Jl Sarinande 20; r incl breakfast US$300-405; aWs)
Is it Mondrian? Is it Roy Lichtenstein? We're not sure which modern artists are the inspiration for this eye-popping hotel, but we can say the results astound. The 14 boldly decorated studio apartments feature kitchens, gadgetry, balconies and have access to a rooftop bar looking over the ocean. A 16-seat cinema shows movies, and there's a Smart car for guest use.
SEMINYAK VILLAS
Whether you're in Bali for a honeymoon, romantic getaway or you're just looking to splurge, staying in your own villa is a sublime experience. All villas offer full privacy within a compound, with front gate, private pool, garden, butler and Zen-like serenity. Seminyak is most well known for its abundance of villas, so here are a few of our favourites.
Villa KubuVILLA$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731129; www.villakubu.com; Jl Raya Seminyak, Gang Plawa 33F; villa incl breakfast US$330; aWs)
A wonderful choice for those seeking that quintessential Balinese villa experience. In a residential locale, all private villas have their own pool, surrounded by landscaped Balinese gardens with frangipani. It has massive semi-outdoor bathrooms and luxurious interiors with all the mod cons. Breakfast is all you can eat and there's a free shuttle service.
SamayaVILLA$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731149; www.thesamayabali.com; Jl Kayu Aya; villas from US$600; aiWs)
Understated yet cultured, the Samaya is one of the best bets for a villa right on the beach in south Bali. It boasts 30 villas in a luxurious contemporary style, each featuring a private pool. The food, from breakfast onwards, is superb.
One ElevenVILLA$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731343; www.111resorts.com; Jl Pangkung Sari 3; r incl breakfast from US$550; aWs)
Hidden behind the minimalist facade of a suave Japanese restaurant, these villas have a 1960s modernist feel about them: cool, sophisticated and stylish. Each has a manicured lawn, a sparkling pool, a spa pavilion and an open lounge with full kitchen, where your private butler will cook up your breakfast. Contemporary rooms have icy air-conditioning; elegant white-tone bathrooms have stand-alone tubs.
Mutiara BaliHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-734966; www.mutiarabali.com; Jl Braban 77; r US$75-140, villas from US$155; aiWs)
The 17 private villas here are exceptionally good value, each with an open lounge area looking out to a private plunge pool. While there are also hotel-style rooms, here it's all about the villas.
Kerobokan
M Boutique HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 4142; www.mboutiquehostel.com; Jl Petitenget 8; dm 150,000Rp; aiWs)
A tasteful and contemporary choice for backpackers, M Boutique's beds are capsule dorms, which come with the benefit of privacy. Each has shutter blinds, a small table, a reading light and a power point. The neatly trimmed lawn and small plunge pool add charm. Rates go up slightly on weekends.
Brown FeatherB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 2165; www.brownfeather.com; Jl Batu Belig 100; r incl breakfast 700,000-900,000Rp; aWs)
On the main road, but backing on to rice paddies, this B&B exudes a Dutch-Javanese colonial charm. Rooms mix simplicity with old-world character, such as wooden writing desks and washbasins made from old Singer sewing machines. For rice-field views, go for room 205 or 206. There's a small, attractive pool and free bicycle rental, too.
It's a few minutes' stroll to Kerobokan's fashionable eating strip, and a short taxi trip to the beach.
Taman Ayu CottageHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 0111; www.thetamanayu.com; Jl Petitenget; r incl breakfast from US$60; aiWs)
This great-value hotel has a fabulous location. Most of
the 52 rooms are in two-storey blocks around a pool shaded by mature trees. Everything is a bit frayed around the edges, but all is forgotten when the bill comes.
W Retreat & Spa Bali – SeminyakRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 8106; www.wretreatbali.com; Jl Petitenget; r incl breakfast from US$320; aiWs)
Like many W hotels, the usual too-cute-for-comfort vibe is at work here (how 'bout an 'extreme wow' suite?), but both the location on a wave-tossed stretch of sand and the views are hard to quibble with. Stylish, hip bars, restaurants and smiling staff abound. The rooms all have balconies, but not all have ocean views.
5Eating
Jl Kayu Aya is the focus of Seminyak eating, but there are great choices for every budget virtually everywhere. Seminyak has developed a full-on cafe culture. Kerobokan, meanwhile, boasts some of Bali's best restaurants, both budget and top end.
Seminyak
Warung Aneka RasaINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kayu Aya; meals from 20,000Rp; h7am-8pm)
Keeping things real in the heart of Seminyak's upmarket retail ghetto, this humble warung cooks up all the Indo classics in an inviting open-front cafe.
Warung Taman BambuBALINESE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-888 1567; Jl Plawa 10; mains from 25,000Rp; h9am-10pm; W)
This classic warung may look simple from the street but the comfy tables are – like the many fresh and spicy dishes on offer – a cut above the norm. There's a small stand for babi guling (suckling pig) right next door.
RevolverCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Jl Kayu Aya; breakfast from 40,000Rp; h7am-6pm; aW)
Wander down a tiny gang and push through narrow wooden doors to reach this matchbox of a coffee bar that does an excellent selection of brews. There are just a few tables in the creatively retro room that's styled like a Wild West saloon; nab one and enjoy tasty fresh bites for breakfast and lunch. The juices are also worth a try.
oMama SanFUSION$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730436; www.mamasanbali.com; Jl Raya Kerobokan 135; mains 90,000-200,000Rp; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11pm; aW)
One of Seminyak's most esteemed restaurants, this stylish warehouse-sized space is split into levels, with photographs hanging from exposed brick walls. The menu has an emphasis on creative dishes from across Southeast Asia. A long cocktail list provides liquid balm for the mojito set and has lots of tropical-flavoured pours.
oMotel MexicolaMEXICAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736688; www.motelmexicolabali.com; Jl Kayu Jati 9; tacos 30,000Rp, mains from 60,000Rp; h11am-1am)
Far from your average tacqueria, Motel Mexicola is an extravaganza that channels a tropical version of a glitzy 1940s nightclub. Its huge space is decked out in kitschy neon and palm trees. The menu includes hand-pressed soft corn tortilla tacos filled with tempura prawn or shredded pork, along with meaty mains. Cocktails, served in copper kettles, go down superbly on a balmy evening.
Earth Cafe & MarketVEGETARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-732805; www.earthcafebali.com; Jl Kayu Aya; mains from 40,000Rp; h7am-11pm; Wv)S
The good vibes are organic at this vegetarian cafe and store. Choose from creative salads, sandwiches or wholegrain vegan and raw-food goodies. It's most famous for its six-course 'Planet Platter' (75,000Rp). The beverage menu includes fresh juices and detox mixes.
Its Divine Earth ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731964; www.facebook.com/divineearthbali; Jl Raya Basangkasa 1200A; h7am-11pm; aWv) restaurant is also worth visiting; it has an upstairs cinema that screens films nightly.
Rolling ForkITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-733 9633; Jl Kunti 1; mains from 75,000Rp; h8.30am-11pm; W)
A gnocchi-sized little trattoria, Rolling Fork serves excellent Italian fare. Breakfast features gorgeous baked goods and excellent coffees. Lunch and dinner include authentic and tasty homemade pastas, salads, seafood and more. The open-air dining room has an alluring retro charm; the Italian owners provide just the right accent.
Corner HouseCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730276; www.cornerhousebali.com; Jl Laksmana 10A; dishes 35,000-125,000Rp; h7am-11pm; W)
With polished concrete floors, dangling light bulbs, distressed walls and vintage-style furniture, this cavernous cafe is typical of what's going on in Seminyak. A popular brunch spot, it does great coffee, big breakfasts, homemade sausage rolls and sirloin steak sandwiches. There's also a small shady courtyard and a more relaxed, breezy upstairs dining area.
UltimoITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-738720; www.balinesia.co.id; Jl Kayu Aya 104; meals 40,000-210,000Rp; h5pm-1am)
This vast and always popular restaurant thrives in a part of Seminyak that's as thick as a good risotto with eateries. Choose a table overlooking the street action, out the back in one of the gardens or inside. Ponder the surprisingly authentic menu and then let the army of servers take charge.
SisterfieldsCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0811 386 0507; www.sisterfieldsbali.com; Jl Kayu Cendana 7; mains from 60,000Rp; h7am-5pm; aW)
Trendy Sisterfields does classic brekkies such as smashed avocado, and more inventive dishes such as truffled oyster mushrooms with duck eggs and crispy pig ears. There are also hipster faves like pulled-pork rolls and lobster sliders. Grab a seat at a booth, the counter or in the rear courtyard.
Fat GajahASIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-868 8212; www.fatgajah.com; Jl Basangkasa 21; dumplings 52,000-80,000Rp; h11am-10.30pm; W)
Fat Gajah is all about the dumplings, prepared with mostly organic ingredients. They come fried or steamed with innovate fillings such as beef rendang, black-pepper crab, kimchi tuna or lemongrass lamb.
Ginger MoonASIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-734533; www.gingermoonbali.com; Jl Kayu Aya 7; mains 70,000-160,000Rp; h11am-midnight; aW)
Australian Dean Keddell is one of scores of young chefs lured to Bali to set up restaurants. His creation is a very appealing, airy space, with carved wood and palms. The menu features a 'Best of' list of favourites, served in portions designed for sharing and grazing.
Kerobokan
oNookASIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 3806 0060; Jl Umalas I; mains from 35,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)
Sublimely positioned among the rice fields, this casual, open-air cafe is popular for its creative takes on Asian fare. It's got a modern vibe mixed with tropical flavours. Good breakfasts and lunchtime sandwiches.
Warung EnyBALINESE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 6892; Jl Petitenget; mains from 35,000Rp; h8am-11pm)
The eponymous Eny cooks everything herself at this tiny open-front warung nearly hidden behind various potted plants. Look for the roadside sign that captures the vibe: 'The love cooking'. The seafood, such as large prawns smothered in garlic, is delicious and most ingredients are organic. Ask about Eny's fun cooking classes.
Gusto Gelato & CoffeeGELATERIA$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-552 2190; www.gusto-gelateria.com; Jl Raya Mertanadi 46; gelato from 22,000Rp; h10am-10pm; aW)
Bali's best gelato is made fresh throughout the day, with unique flavours such as avocado choc-chip, dragonfruit, and kamangi (lemon basil). The classics are all here, too.
Warung SulawesiINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Petitenget; meals from 30,000Rp; h10am-6pm)
Find a table in this quiet family compound and enjoy fresh Balinese and Indonesian food served in classic warung style. Choose a rice, then pick from a captivating array of dishes that are always at their peak at noon. The long beans are yum!
Warung SobatSEAFOOD$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 8922; Jl Batubelig 11; mains 37,000-90,000Rp; h11am-11.30pm; W)
Set in a sort of bungalow-style brick courtyard, this old-fashioned restaurant excels at fresh Balinese seafood with an Italian accent (lots of garlic!).
oBikuFUSION$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-857 0888; www.bikubali.com; Jl Petitenget 888; meals 40,000-120,000
Rp; h8am-11pm; W)
Housed in a 150-year-old teak joglo (traditional Javanese house), hugely popular Biku retains the timeless vibe of its predecessor. The menu combines Indonesian and other Asian with Western influences; book for lunch or dinner. It's also popular for high tea (from 11am to 5pm; 220,000Rp for two people), served Asian-style – with samosa, spring rolls etc, and green or oolong tea – or traditional – with cucumber sandwiches etc.
oWatercressCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0851 0280 8030; www.watercressbali.com; Jl Batubelig 21A; mains from 65,000Rp; h7.30am-11pm; W)
A hit with the Bondi hipster set, this leafy roadside cafe does a roaring trade. As well as hearty breakfasts and gourmet burgers, it prides itself upon the healthy mains and salads. Excellent coffee, beer on tap and cocktails are other reasons to stop by.
Saigon StreetVIETNAMESE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-897 4007; www.saigonstreetbali.com; Jl Petitenget 77; mains 50,000-175,000Rp; h11.30am-11pm; W)
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 41