Lonely Planet Indonesia

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  Modern, vibrant and buzzing, this new Vietnamese restaurant lures in punters with its swanky neon decor. Creative Vietnamese dishes include peppery betel leaves filled with slow-cooked octopus, an impressive rice-paper roll selection, along with curries, pho and grilled meats cooked on aromatic coconut wood.

  oSardineSEAFOOD$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0811 397 8111; www.sardinebali.com; Jl Petitenget 21; meals US$20-50; h11.30am-4pm & 6-11pm; W)

  Seafood fresh from the famous Jimbaran market is the star at this elegant yet intimate, casual yet stylish restaurant. It's in a beautiful bamboo pavilion, with open-air tables overlooking a private rice field patrolled by Sardine’s own flock of ducks. The inventive bar is a must and stays open until 1am. The menu changes to reflect what’s fresh. Booking is vital.

  SarongFUSION$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 7809; www.sarongbali.com; Jl Petitenget 19X; mains 120,000-180,000Rp; h6.30-10.45pm; W)

  Sarong is an elegant affair by the owners of Seminyak's excellent Mama San. The cuisine spans the globe, and its small plates are popular with those wishing to pace an evening and enjoy the commodious bar. No children allowed.

  BarbacoaBARBECUE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-739235; www.barbacoabali.com; Jl Petitenget 14; mains 110,000-250,000Rp; hnoon-midnight; W)

  Adding another star to Jl Petitenget's fashionable culinary strip, Barbacoa is an impressive space with soaring timber ceilings, colourful mosaic tiled floors and outlooks to rice fields. The food is all about charcoal meats; the restaurant's walls are lined with firewood to cook up its menu of Latin American dishes.

  DON'T MISS

  BEACH SUNSETS

  While there are plenty of fancy beach clubs and rooftop bars where you can indulge in south Bali's magical sunsets, nothing beats heading to the beach. Grab a plastic chair or a bean bag and plonk yourself on the sand with a cheap, cold Bintang in hand and enjoy the show.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Like your vision at 2am, the division between restaurant, bar and club blurs in Seminyak. Although the area lacks any real hard-core clubs where you can greet the dawn (or vice versa), stalwarts can head south to the rough edges of Kuta and Legian in the wee hours.

  Numerous bars popular with gay and straight crowds line Jl Camplung Tanduk.

  oPotato HeadBEACH CLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 7979; www.ptthead.com; Jl Petitenget; h11am-2am; W)

  Bali's original beach club is still one of the best. Wander up off the sand or follow a long drive off Jl Petitenget and you’ll find much to amuse, from an enticing pool to a swanky restaurant, plus lots of lounges and patches of lawn for chillin' the night away under the stars.

  oLa FavelaBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730603; www.lafavela.com; Jl Kayu Aya 177X; hnoon-late; W)

  Full of bohemian flair, La Favela is one of Bali's coolest and most original night spots. Themed rooms lead you on a confounding tour from dimly lit speakeasy cocktail lounges and antique dining rooms to graffiti-splashed bars. Tables are cleared after 11pm to make way for DJs and a dance floor.

  It's equally popular for its garden restaurant, which has a Mediterranean-inspired menu.

  oAnomali CoffeeCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.anomalicoffee.com; Jl Kayu Aya 7B; coffee from 26,000Rp; h6.30am-10pm; aW)

  While there's no shortage of cafes in Seminyak, for the serious coffee drinker Anomali remains the standout. Single-origin beans are sourced from across the archipelago and roasted on-site. Take your pick of V-60 drip coffee, Aeropress, siphon or espresso made by expert baristas in cool warehouse-style surrounds. It also sells packaged ground beans.

  Ku De TaCLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736969; www.kudeta.net; Jl Kayu Aya 9; h8am-late; W)

  Ku De Ta teems with Bali’s beautiful people (including those whose status is purely aspirational). Scenesters perfect their ‘bored’ look over drinks during the day while gazing at the fine stretch of beach. Sunset brings out crowds, which snatch cigars at the bar or dine on eclectic fare at tables. The music throbs with increasing intensity through the night.

  La PlanchaBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730603; off Jl Camplung Tanduk; h8am-midnight)

  The most substantial of the beach bars along the beach walk south of Jl Camplung Tanduk, La Plancha has its share of ubiquitous brightly coloured umbrellas and beanbags on the sand, plus a menu of Spanish-accented bites. After sunset, expect DJs and beach parties.

  Bali JoeLGBT

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-847 5771; www.balijoebar.com; Jl Camplung Tanduk; h3pm-3am; W)

  One of several lively LGBT venues along this strip. Drag queens and go-go dancers rock the house nightly.

  7Shopping

  Seminyak shops could occupy days of your holiday. Designer boutiques (Bali has a thriving fashion industry), retro-chic stores, slick galleries, wholesale emporiums and family-run workshops are just some of the choices.

  In Kerobokan look for boutiques interspersed with the trendy restaurants on Jl Petitenget.

  oDrifterCLOTHING, ACCESSORIES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-733274; www.driftersurf.com; Jl Kayu Aya 50; h7.30am-11pm)

  High-end surf fashion, surfboards, gear, cool books and brands such as Obey and Wegener. Started by two savvy surfer dudes, the shop stocks goods noted for their individuality and high quality. There's also a small cafe-bar and a patio.

  AshitabaHANDICRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Seminyak 6; h9am-9pm)

  Tenganan, the Aga village of east Bali, produces the intricate and beautiful rattan items sold here. Containers, bowls, purses and more (from 50,000Rp) display the very fine weaving.

  BatheBEAUTY, HOMEWARES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0811 388 640; www.bathestore.com; Jl Batu Belig 88; h7am-10pm)

  Double-down on your villa’s romance with the handmade candles, air diffusers, aromatherapy oils, bath salts and homewares at this shop that evokes the feel of a 19th-century French dispensary.

  Lulu YasmineCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736763; www.luluyasmine.com; Jl Kayu Aya; h9am-10pm)

  Designer Luiza Chang gets inspiration from her worldwide travels for her elegant line of women's clothes.

  BiasaCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730308; www.biasabali.com; Jl Raya Seminyak 36; h9am-9pm)

  This is Bali-based designer Susanna Perini’s premier shop. Her line of elegant tropical wear for men and women combines cottons, silks and embroidery. The outlet store is at Jl Basangkasa 47.

  Paul RoppCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-735613; www.paulropp.com; Jl Kayu Aya; h9am-9pm)

  The main shop of one of Bali’s premier high-end fashion designers for men and women. Most goods are made in the hills above Denpasar. And what goods they are: rich silks and cottons, vivid to the point of gaudy, with hints of Ropp’s roots in the tie-dyed 1960s.

  Blue GlueCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731130; www.blue-glue.com; Jl Raya Seminyak 16E; h9am-9pm)

  'The dream bikini of all women' is the motto of this famous brand that makes a big statement with its tiny wear. The swimwear is French designed and made right in Bali. There's also an outlet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Basangkasa; h9am-8pm), with prices as small as its bikinis.

  Lucy's BatikTEXTILES, CLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %085100951275; www.lucysbatikbali.com; Jl Raya Basangkasa 88; h9.30am-9pm)

  Great for both men and women, Lucy's is a good spot to shop for the finest batik. Shirts, dresses, sarongs and bags are mostly handwoven or handpainted. It also sells material by the metre.

  This Is A Love SongCLOTHING

  (TIALS; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thisisalovesong.com; Jl Kayu Aya 3; h10am-10pm)

  One for Gen-Y fashionistas, this quirky streetwear label born out of Bali has clothed stars from Miley Cyrus to Katy Perry.

  SamsaraCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.samsaraboutique.com; Jl Raya Seminyak
; h10am-10pm)

  True Balinese-made textiles are increasingly rare as production moves to Java and other places with cheaper labour. But the local family behind this tidy shop still sources hand-painted Batik for a range of exquisite casual wear.

  DuztyCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Seminyak 67; h9am-10pm)

  In an industry dominated by foreigners, it's refreshing to see a local label. T-shirts here are designed by a young Balinese lad, Rahsun. They feature edgy rock-and-roll and counter-culture themes. There are also a few women's tank tops.

  Periplus BookshopBOOKS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736851; Jl Kayu Aya, Seminyak Sq; h8am-10pm)

  A large outlet of the island-wide chain of lavishly fitted bookshops. In addition to design books numerous enough to have you fitting out even your garage with ‘Bali Style’, it stocks bestsellers, magazines and newspapers.

  8Information

  Seminyak is generally more hassle-free than nearby Kuta and Legian. But it's worth reading up on the warnings (Click here), especially surf and water pollution, which also apply here.

  8Getting There & Around

  Metered taxis are easily hailed. A trip to Seminyak from the airport with the airport taxi cartel costs about 120,000Rp; to the airport, about 50,000Rp.

  Taxis from the airport to Kerobokan will cost at least 150,000Rp. In either direction at rush hour the trip may verge on an hour. Note also that Jl Raya Kerobokan can come to a fume-filled stop for extended periods.

  You can beat the traffic, save the ozone and have a good stroll by walking along the beach; Legian is only about 15 minutes away from Seminyak.

  DON'T MISS

  BEACHES: KEROBOKAN TO ECHO BEACH

  The 4km of sand curving between Kerobokan's Batubelig Beach and Echo Beach has several uncrowded strands that can be reached by road or on foot from either direction.

  ABerewa Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; parking motorbike/car 2000/3000Rp) A greyish beach, secluded among rice fields and villas, about 2km up the sand from Seminyak. There are a couple of surfer cafes by the pounding sea.

  APrancak Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) Marked by the large temple complex of Pura Dalem Prancak. There is usually at least one vendor at this quiet beach.

  ANelayan Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) A collection of fishing boats and huts marks this very mellow stretch of sand that fronts 'villa-land' just inland.

  ABatu Bolong Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) The pantai (beach) at Batu Bolong boasts the large Pura Batumejan complex, which has a striking pagoda-like temple. There are surfboard rentals (100,000Rp per day) and impromptu lessons available, and some groovy cafes. About 200m further on there’s a slightly upscale beach vendor with comfy loungers for rent and drinks for sale.

  AEcho Beach (Pantai Batu Mejan; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) Surfers, and those who watch them, flock here for the high-tide left-hander that regularly tops 2m. The greyish sand right in front of the developments can vanish at high tide, but you'll find wide strands both east and west. Batu Bolong beach is 500m east.

  APererenan Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) For the moment, this laid-back northerly surf beach comprises only a few guesthouses and beach bars overlooking its dark tanned sands. It’s an easy 300m walk from Echo Beach across sand and rock formations (or about 1km by road).

  Canggu & Around

  The Canggu region, north and west from Kerobokan, is Bali's hippest and fastest growing area. Much of the growth is centred along the coast, anchored by the endless swathes of beach, which, despite rampant development, remains fairly uncrowded and rice fields abound (for the moment).

  In addition to long-term expats in their cloistered villas, Canggu lures a new generation of trendy, youthful and entrepreneurial expats who whisk past stooped rice farmers on their motorbikes. As well as surfers, it attracts a demographic of traveller looking for a more laid-back alternative to the mass tourism Kuta–Seminyak. In the Canggu area it's all about relaxed beach bars, yoga, organic produce and good coffee.

  One of Bali's most popular surf breaks, Echo Beach has reached critical mass in popularity; it's quite the scene, with tourists, expats and locals all coming down to wet their feet at the often spectacular sunsets.

  Canggu & Echo Beach

  1Sights

  1Batu Bolong BeachA2

  2Batubelig BeachC3

  3Berawa BeachB2

  4Echo BeachA1

  5Nelayan BeachB2

  6Pererenan BeachA1

  7Prancak BeachB2

  4Sleeping

  8Coconuts Guesthouse CangguB1

  9Desa SeniC2

  10FRii Bali Echo BeachA1

  11Hotel Tugu BaliA1

  12Ketapang Guest HouseA1

  13Pondok Nyoman BagusA1

  14SedasaB2

  15Serenity Eco Guesthouse & YogaB2

  16Widi HomestayB2

  5Eating

  17Beach HouseA1

  18Betelnut CafeB1

  CrateB1

  19Deus Ex MachinaB1

  20El Jefe Jose CubanosB1

  21Green GingerC2

  22NookD2

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  23Hungry BirdB1

  24La LagunaB2

  25Old Man'sA2

  26Pretty PoisonB1

  7Shopping

  Dylan Board StoreB1

  4Sleeping

  Canggu

  Serenity Eco Guesthouse & YogaGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-846 9257; www.serenityecoguesthouse.com; Jl Nelayan; dm/s/d with fan 165,000/203,000/440,000Rp, d with air-con 495,000Rp; aWs)S

  This hotel is an oasis among the sterility of walled villas. Rooms range from shared-bath singles to quite nice doubles with bathrooms. The grounds are appealingly eccentric; Nelayan Beach is a five-minute walk. There are yoga classes (from 100,000Rp) and you can rent surfboards, bikes, cars and more.

  Widi HomestayHOMESTAY$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 3303 2322; [email protected]; Jl Pantai Berawa; r from 250,000Rp; aW)

  There's no faux hipster vibe here, just a spotless, friendly, family-run homestay. The four rooms have hot water and air-con; the beach is barely 100m away.

  oSedasaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-844 6655; www.sedasa.com; Jl Raya Pantai Berawa; r incl breakfast from 875,000Rp; aWs)

  Both intimate and stylish, Sedasa has an understated Balinese elegance that gives it a distinct Ubud-like feel. Large rooms overlook a small pool, and have designer furniture and travel photography on the walls. The beanbags on the rooftop make a good place to relax with a book. Downstairs there's an organic cafe with an open kitchen and cooking classes.

  Coconuts Guesthouse CangguGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878 6192 7150; www.coconutsguesthouse.com; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; r from 650,000Rp; aWs)

  The five breezy rooms at this contemporary guesthouse are very comfortable. Some have lovely views of the (surviving) rice fields, and all have fridges and a relaxed motif. Enjoy sunsets from the rooftop lounge area or take a dip in the 10m pool. Batu Bolong Beach is a 700m walk.

  oHotel Tugu BaliHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 1701; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; r incl breakfast from US$400; aiWs)

  Right at Batu Bolong Beach, this exquisite hotel blurs the boundaries between accommodation and a museum-gallery, especially the Walter Spies and Le Mayeur Pavilions, where memorabilia from the artists' lives decorates the rooms. There's a spa and customised dining options.

  Desa SeniHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-844 6392; www.desaseni.com; Jl Subak Sari 13; s/d incl breakfast from US$135/210; aiWs)

  This place has been described as being like a hippy Four Seasons, and that's not far from the truth. The 10 classic wooden homes, up to two centuries old, were brought to the site from across Indonesia and turned into luxurious quarters. Guests enjoy a menu of organic and healthy cuisine plus yoga courses.

  Echo Beach & Around

  Ketapang Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
>
  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0815 5843 4626; [email protected]; Jl Pantai Batu Mejan; s/d incl breakfast 250,000/350,000Rp; a)

  Given its proximity to Echo Beach, Ketapang offers exceptional value, with huge modern tile-floor rooms, free breakfast, air-con, hot-water showers and free drinking-water refills.

  Pondok Nyoman BagusGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-848 2925; www.pondoknyoman.com; Jl Pantai Pererenan; r 500,000Rp; aWs)

  Just behind Pererenan Beach, this popular guesthouse has 14 rooms with terraces and balconies, all set in a newish two-storey building that boasts a rooftop infinity pool and a restaurant with sensational sea views.

  FRii Bali Echo BeachHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-846 9178; www.friihotels.com; Jl Munduk Catu 32; r from 900,000Rp; aiWs)

  Aspiring to appeal to the typical young, hip travellers that come to Canggu, this chain hotel feels a bit contrived in its delivery. Modern rooms have brick walls with chic-industrial trimmings and balconies. The bottom level rooms literally open up to the pool. Head up to its rooftop deck for food, a bar and a yoga space. Free shuttle to Seminyak.

  5Eating

 

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