This complex and vital social system was recognised by Unesco in 2012 and added to the World Heritage list. Specific sites singled out include much of the rice-growing region around Tabanan, Pura Taman Ayun and the Jatiluwih rice terraces.
Learn more about Bali's rice-growing traditions at the Mandala Mathika Subak (Subak Museum; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Kediri; adult/child 15,000/7500Rp; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat), a simple museum just east of Tabanan.
The road to Pura Luhur Batukau and the beautiful rice terraces of Jatiluwih heads north from the centre of town.
Balian Beach
%0361
Increasingly popular, Balian Beach is a rolling area of dunes and knolls overlooking pounding surf. It attracts both surfers and those looking to escape the bustle of south Bali.
You can wander between cafes and join other travellers for a beer, watch the sunset and talk surf. There are simple places to rent boards along the brown-sand beach; nonsurfers can simply enjoy bodysurfing the wild waves.
Balian Beach is right at the mouth of the wide Sungai Balian (Balian River). It is 800m south of the town of Lalang-Linggah, which is on the main road 10km west of Antosari.
4Sleeping & Eating
All of the accommodation is fairly close together and near the beach. Warungs, simple cafes and a few restaurant shacks on the beach mean a bottle of Bintang is never more than a minute's walk away.
oSurya HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 3868 5643; [email protected]; r incl breakfast 150,000-200,000Rp)
There are five rooms in bungalow-style units at this sweet little family-run place (Wayan and Putu are charmers) that is about 200m along a small lane. It’s spotless, and rooms have cold water and fans. Ask about long-term rates.
Ayu BalianHOMESTAY$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 399 353; Jl Pantai Balian; r incl breakfast 100,000-150,000Rp)
The 15 rooms in this slightly shambolic two-storey cold-water block look down the road to the surf. The small cafe serves crowd-pleasing fare. The friendly owner Ayu is a genuine character.
oPondok Pitaya: Hotel, Surfing & YogaGUESTHOUSE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 9984 9054; www.pondokpitaya.com; Jl Pantai Balian; r incl breakfast from 750,000Rp; Ws)
With a spray-scented location right on wave-tossed Balian Beach, this complex features an eclectic range of rooms: from vintage Indonesian buildings (including a 1950 Javanese house and an 1860 Balinese alligator hunter's shack) to more modest accommodation. It's a great place for families as it has a popular pool. The cafe serves juices, organic fare and pizzas (mains from 35,000Rp to 120,000Rp).
Gajah MinaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 381 1630; www.gajahminaresort.com; villas incl breakfast from US$140; as)
Designed by the French architect-owner, this eight-unit boutique hotel is close to the ocean. The private, walled bungalows march out to a dramatic outcrop of stone surrounded by surf.
oTékor BaliINTERNATIONAL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0815 5832 3330; off Jl Pantai Balian; mains from 30,000Rp; h7.30am-10pm; W)
Down a small lane 100m back from the beach, this inviting restaurant with a grassy lawn feels a bit like you've come to a mate's backyard for a barbecue. The menu is broad, with all the usual local and surfer favourites., and the burgers are excellent. Cocktails are well made and there's cheap Bintang on tap.
Accommodation is available in two small cold-water and fan-only rooms (200,000Rp).
Deki's WarungINDONESIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; mains from 30,000Rp; h7.30am-9pm)
With spectacular hilltop setting overlooking the water, this place is the place for a sunset view. It has the usual Indonesian and Western favourites, a good bar selection, and makes a lively evening hang-out. It's just up from Balian beach.
8Getting There & Away
Because the main west Bali road is usually jammed with traffic, Balian Beach is often at least a two-hour drive from Seminyak or the airport (55km). A car and driver will cost about 500,000Rp for a day trip. You can also get a bus (20,000Rp) going to Gilimanuk from Denpasar's Ubung terminal and be dropped off at the road entrance, which is 800m from the places to stay.
Jembrana Coast
About 34km west of Tabanan you cross into Bali's most sparsely populated district, Jembrana. The main road follows the south coast most of the way to Negara. There's some beautiful scenery and little tourist development, with the exception of the surfing action at Medewi.
Medewi
On the main road, a large sign points down the short paved road (200m) to the surfing mecca of Pantai Medewi and its long left-hand wave. Rides of 200m to 400m are common. There's no beach here, instead it's a stretch of huge, smooth grey rocks interspersed among round black pebbles. Cattle graze by the shore, paying no heed to the spectators watching the action out on the water.
4Sleeping & Eating
You'll find accommodation along the main lane to the surf break and down other lanes about 2km east of the main surf break.
Warung Gede & HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 397 6668; s/d 80,000/100,000Rp)
From the simple open-air cafe (meals from 15,000Rp) you can watch the breaks and enjoy basic Indonesian fare as well as good Western breakfasts. Rooms are surfer-simple: cold water and fans.
Surf Villa MukksGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 397 3431; www.surfvillamukks.com; Pulukan; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con 250,000/400,000Rp; aW)
About 900m east of the Medewi surf break at Pulukan, this Japanese-owned guesthouse has modern rooms overlooking rice fields and distant surf. It's a superchilled spot where some rooms have large bamboo blinds instead of doors. It rents boards and offers surf lessons.
Medewi Beach CottagesHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-852 8521; www.medewibeachcottages.com; r from US$80; aWs)
A large pool anchors 27 comfortable, modern rooms (with satellite TV) scattered about nice gardens right down by the surf break. It has a small annex nearby for surfers, with cold-water, fan-only rooms for 200,000Rp.
Puri Dajuma CottagesHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0811 388 709; www.dajuma.com; cottages from US$160; aiWs)
Coming from the east on the main road, you won't be able to miss this seaside resort, thanks to its prolific signage. Happily, the 18 cottages actually live up to the billing. Each has a private garden, hammock, ocean view and a walled outdoor bathroom. The Medewi surf break is 2km west.
8Getting There & Away
Medewi Beach is 75km from the airport. A car and driver will cost about 600,000Rp for a day trip. You can also get a bus (25,000Rp) going to Gilimanuk from Denpasar's Ubung terminal and be dropped off at the road entrance.
Nusa Tenggara
Nusa Tenggara Highlights
Lombok
Mataram
Around Mataram
Lembar
Southwestern Peninsula
Senggigi
Senggigi to Bangsal
Bangsal to Bayan
Senaru
Sembalun Valley
Gunung Rinjani
Tetebatu
Praya
Around Praya
Kuta
East of Kuta
West of Kuta
Labuhan Lombok
South of Labuhan Lombok
Gili Islands
Sumbawa
West Sumbawa
Sumbawa Besar
Around Sumbawa Besar
East Sumbawa
Komodo & Rinca Islands
Komodo
Rinca
Flores
Labuanbajo
Manggarai Country
Bajawa
Around Bajawa
Riung
Ende
Kelimutu
Moni
Detusoko
Paga
Sikka & Lela
Maumere
Around Maumere
Larantuka
Alor Archipelago
Kalabahi
Around Kalabahi
West Timor
Kupang
Around Kupang
Soe
Around Soe
Kefamenanu
Around Kefamenanu
Rote
Ba'a
Nemberala
Around Nemberala
Sumba
Waingapu
Around Waingapu
East Sumba
South-Central Sumba
Waikabubak
West Sumba
Nusa Tenggara
Pop 9.7 million
Why Go?
If you’re seeking white sand, azure bays, frothing hot springs and hidden traditional villages, Nusa Tenggara is your wonderland. Here’s an arc of islands that is lush and jungle-green in the north, and more arid savannah in the south. In-between are some of the world’s best diving spots, limitless surf breaks and technicolour volcanic lakes. It’s a land of pink-sand beaches, schooling sharks and rays, and swaggering dragons.
You’ll also find a cultural diversity that is unmatched elsewhere in Indonesia. Animist rituals and tribal traditions still thrive alongside the countless minarets, temples, convents and chapels, and though Bahasa Indonesia is a unifying tongue, each main island has at least one native language, which is often subdivided into dialects. Whether your wish is to drop into the easy, tourist-ready life of a car-free Gili island, or you crave something, somewhere less comfortable, more challenging and a shade deeper, you’re exactly where you’re supposed to be.
When to Go
AApr–Sep The dry season brings great diving visibility; travellers flock to Komodo and other locales.
AMay & Oct Epic waves and thin crowds in Rote and Sumbawa.
AOct–Mar Sumba's spectacular Pasola festival, in February, is reason enough to visit in the wetter months.
Best Resorts
A Pearl Beach
A Tugu Lombok
A Amanwana Resort
A La Petite Kepa
A Malole Surf House
Best Beaches
A Pantai Segar
A Mawi
A Pantai Koka
A Nemberala
A Pantai Etreat
8Getting There & Around
Overland travel is slow in mountainous Nusa Tenggara. Busy Lombok, Sumbawa, Flores and Timor have fairly decent surfaced main roads and relatively comfortable bus services. Get off the highways, and things slow down considerably. Ferry services are regular and consistent in the dry season, but in the wet season, when seas get rough, your ship may be cancelled for days on end. Overland travel across all of Nusa Tenggara is time-consuming, with stretches of tedium offset by areas of interest.
Several airlines cover interisland routes, many of which start in Bali. All the important towns and cities have regular – and expanding – air service. Lombok and Kupang are hubs, while airports such as Labuanbajo in Flores and Tambolaka in Sumba boast new and improved facilities.
Nusa Tenggara Highlights
1 Seeing dragons on land, then snorkelling or diving with underwater critters big and small in Komodo National Park
2 Trekking up the slopes of the sacred volcano that dominates northern Lombok, Gunung Rinjani
3 Exploring Flores from one end to another – a world of ancient cultures, volcanoes, lush rainforests and untrodden beaches such as Pantai Naga
4 Exploring the remote villages of West Timor, characterised by their beehive-shaped clan houses, such as otherworldly Temkessi
5 Diving on the Alor Archipelago, which feels like one stop before the end of the world.
6 Plunging into watery pleasures by day, and then choosing between many at night, on Gili Trawangan
7 Bouncing between one sensational scalloped beach and the next in West Sumba, then pausing at the ancient village of Ratenggaro
Lombok
Long overshadowed by its superstar neighbour across the Lombok Strait, Lombok has a steady hum about it that catches the ear of travellers looking for something different from Bali. Blessed with exquisite white-sand beaches, epic surf, a lush forested interior, and hiking trails through tobacco and rice fields, Lombok is fully loaded with equatorial allure. Oh, and you'll probably notice mighty Gunung Rinjani, Indonesia's second-highest volcano, its summit complete with hot springs and a dazzling crater lake.
And there's much more. Lombok's southern coastline is nature on a very grand scale: breathtaking turquoise bays, world-class surf breaks and massive headlands.
Transport options are good in Lombok and the mood could not be more laid-back. If you're planning to head further east in Nusa Tenggara, you can pass through Lombok overland to Sumbawa, or catch a boat to Flores.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Lombok International Airport, near Praya, is ever-more busy. There is good service to Bali and Java, with fewer services going east into Nusa Tenggara. Flights also serve the international hubs of Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. You'll find travel agents for airline tickets in Kuta, Mataram and Senggigi.
Boat
Public ferries connect Lembar (Click here) on Lombok's west coast with Bali, and Labuhan Lombok (Click here) on its east coast with Sumbawa. Numerous fast boat companies link Lombok with the Gili Islands and Bali. These are mostly centred on Senggigi (Click here).
Public Bus
Mandalika Terminal in Mataram is the departure point (Click here) for major cities in Sumbawa, Bali and Java, via interisland ferries. For long-distance services, book tickets a day or two ahead at the terminal, or from a travel agent. If you get to the terminal before 8am without a reservation, there may indeed be a spare seat on a bus going in your direction, but don’t count on it, especially during holidays.
Tourist Shuttle Bus
There are tourist shuttle-bus services between the main tourist centres in Lombok (Senggigi and Kuta) and most tourist centres in Bali (Ubud, Sanur and the Kuta region) and the Gilis. Typically these combine a minibus with public ferries. Tickets can be booked directly or at a travel agent. These schemes are heavily marketed.
DON'T MISS
BEST OF LOMBOK
ASurfing (or learning to surf) in Gerupuk
AScaling Gunung Rinjani, Lombok's incomparable sacred peak
ASetting eyes on idyllic Mawan beach for the very first time
APicking your own deserted-cove beach north of Senggigi
ACatching a Sasak festival
8Getting Around
There is a good – though often traffic-clogged – road across the middle of the island, between Mataram and Labuhan Lombok. The Mataram–Praya–Kuta road is multilane and quick. The Lembar–Mataram–Senggigi–Anyar route is in very good condition. Elsewhere you'll find mostly decent sealed roads, with a few notable exceptions such as the beaches of southwest Lombok. Public transport is generally restricted to the main routes; away from these, you need a car or motorbike, or to charter an ojek (motorcycle taxi).
Bus & Bemo
Mandalika Terminal is 3km east of central Mataram; other regional terminals are in Praya, Anyar and Pancor (near Selong). You may have to go via one or more of these terminals to get from one part of Lombok to another. Fixed fares should be displayed. Public transport becomes scarce in the late afternoon and normally ceases after dark.
Car & Motorcycle
It's easy to hire a car in all the tourist areas (with/without driver per day from 600,000/300,000Rp). Motorbikes are also widely available from about 70,000Rp per day. Check your insurance arrangements carefully. Some agencies do not offer any coverage at all, and others offer only basic coverage. Even insured Balinese vehicles are often not covered in Lombok.
There's little reason to bring a car or motorbike from Bali when you can avoid the ferry charges and easily rent your own wheels on Lombok.
Mataram
%0370 / Pop 420,000
Lombok's capital is a blended sprawl of several (once separate) towns with fuzzy borders: Ampenan (the port); M
ataram (the administrative centre); Cakranegara (the business centre, often called simply 'Cakra'); and Bertais and Sweta to the east, where you'll find the bus terminal. Stretching for 12km from east to west it's home to half a million people.
There aren't many tourist attractions, yet Mataram's broad tree-lined avenues buzz with traffic, thrum with motorbikes and are teeming with classic markets and malls. If you're hungry for a blast of Indo realism, you'll find it here.
1Sights
oPura MeruHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Selaparang; admission 10,000Rp; h8am-5pm)
Pura Meru is the largest and second most important Hindu temple on Lombok. Built in 1720, it’s dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The inner court has 33 small shrines and three thatched, teak-wood meru (multi-tiered shrines). The central meru, with 11 tiers, is Shiva’s house; the meru to the north, with nine tiers, is Vishnu’s; and the seven-tiered meru to the south is Brahma’s.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 57